Tisas 1911 Carry DS The Good and Bad - Watch Before You Buy!

[@fred.larson2720q]

I just bought a Duty model. My Holosun EPS was a perfect fit with no modifications. My barrel bushing is fairly loose but nothing like yours. I gave the gun to a friend who is a Bob Marvel trained 2011 smith and with 3 hours of work he cleaned it up and gave it a fantastic 3 lb. trigger. The only Tisas part he did not keep was the hammer spring. He did have to clean the Cerakote off of the internal parts. The slight bump I felt on the slide as it passed over the disconnector is gone. I bought mine when Palmetto dropped their price to $650. For that price, and a very modest bill at my smith, I am very happy with this gun.

[@EngineersArmory]

Hell yeah! thats the way to do it.

[@jericosha2842]

I'm so glad you made this video. I was thinking about ordering one, but I just want to order it and love it right away.

[@EngineersArmory]

Glad it was helpful! In your case it may be worth it to save your money for a more expensive "budget" double stack 1911.

[@aswin2352]

As usual.....great job! Your videos are definitely on the must watch list.

[@juliosoto8576]

Great video. Great update. I was really looking forward to your final thoughts and input on all the upgrades you did to this firearm. I also watched the other videos on it as well, and gonna take a couple of your ideas and put them on my Tisas. Thanks again.

[@EngineersArmory]

Final video where I show all the work i did to it is coming. Still tinkering away haha. Waiting for a new mainspring housing to see if I can get this new grip safety to fit. I also fit a new barrel bushing (a second one) so i will give an update on accuracy. im going on vacation so the last video probably wont be for a month or more.

[@juliosoto8576]

@dltz sounds good. Enjoy the vacation, brother

[@DesertTactical]

Superb info. You gave me more to think about since I have been considering picking this one up. Subbed.

[@EngineersArmory]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing! In a couple weeks I'll have some videos up on the MAC9 DS I just purchased and a detailed comparison to this.

[@DesertTactical]

@@EngineersArmory Oh cool! Def want to watch that! Glad I found your channel and subbed!

[@lenholt7419]

I purchased an Aviator and still considering the DS Duty. Tisas does have a lot of room to improve. SDS has a daunting task in their business model. You have skills that many do not. I found when interacting with CS to be concise, effective, clear communications, and going beyond the sale. They do exactly what they say they will do. I question how long they can keep this model of operation up. This compares to several Custom/SemiCustom manufacturers. A+ in my book. The obvious thing on these pistols they are FACTRY made....slapped together. You want great fit and cheap? "It fits and functions" not refined. Agree this is the True Value in these pistols. I had several problems on the Aviator. The Kryptonite issue across their line is the extractor. It needs attention nearly day one. I'll inspect the Barrel Bushings closer now. Not all Gun Smiths will work on these due to the varied tolerances. With All the issues I had resolved, the Aviator has earned its way into carry rotation.

[@FunWithGuns]

Thank you for the well put together wealth of knowledge.

[@ashittycheme]

My xp has been the same. I have an early model B45R that, out of the box was perfect so I purchased the DS 9 Carry and Duty model. Both have terrible barrel bushing fitment and needed serious leaf spring work. My duty model trigger fitment is a joke. EPS arrives next week so we'll see how it goes but not to confident in my purchase.

[@EngineersArmory]

Sear spring on this one took a ton of fiddling too. Had some memory too it and my trigger weight kept creeping back up. Bummer you have had the same issue. I hope you dont have the optic cut issue!

[@andrewhosuer3846]

I bought the DS Duty, but I use the Slide from a BR9 Carry 2800 rounds later and it runs 100%

[@chrisl5038]

I really wanted to hate these pistols but they run and run well with slite mods i did do the trigger. And runs better then high dollar 2011's

[@EngineersArmory]

They are a solid value. Great starting place for upgrades. What high dollar 2011s do you have first hand experience that dont run as good as this? so I know what to avoid haha

[@chrisl5038]

@EngineersArmory I have some STI nothing wrong with them at all, was just saying for the price of the Tisas it runs and runs great

[@Thomas-vt7cz]

Great informative video bruh... 😎

[@mafira1987]

Great informative video 🙏🏾

[@raygreenman2519]

Very nice review. I enjoyed the whole series, and i was wondering, would you get similar results from the single stack version?

[@EngineersArmory]

Similar results from the upgrades? Or the possibility of similar issues out of the box? I guess the answer is yes regardless haha.

[@pitbulllover6152]

Excellent information. Thank you.

[@montevallomustang]

I had to run check my barrel bushing 😂 I think the ds carry is an excellent pistol for anyone planning to do upgrades (which im sure is everyone watching this video)

[@EngineersArmory]

Well is the bushing loose in the slide?? Haha yeah this gun is pretty awesome if you want to tinker on it and modify it.

[@BYoun69]

After watching this video I have ordered a WC bushing and springs for the one I ordered. The parts and gun should be here about the same time.

[@DesertTactical]

I was gonna do the same. To my surprise, the bushing on mine is properly fitted to the barrel. No wiggle at all.

[@bgriff2517]

How’s the grip safety spring tension? I held a Girsan and the tension was pretty high? Other nicer guns had lower tensions.

[@EngineersArmory]

Its on the stiffer side. Grip safety tension is largely preference. However, it does need to have enough tension to remain engaged and not flop around. Yes, generally higher end guns have less grip safety tension - that just requires the time for the gunsmith to adjust it. In volume production they don't bother, and its safer to err on the more tension side of things. Luckily its very easy to adjust to your individual liking no matter what 1911 you have. I actually prefer mine on the stiffer side.

[@vernoncrumpler]

It’s $574 at Bud’s gun shop. They dropped the price 23%!

[@ThomasSimmons-j9l]

I just got one. It's throwing brass in my face and it was double feeding . Send it into the factory and they polished the ramp and tightened the extractor. Got it back still throwing brass to 6 o'clock

[@EngineersArmory]

Sounds like they didnt properly tune the extractor. Check out this video. It helped me. Don't know if you're comfortable trying something like this yourself. May be time to take it to a gunsmith who is familiar with 1911s. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jp6WpKZpjbKErq8

[@ThomasSimmons-j9l]

@@EngineersArmory id like to go with a Wilson ejector. The shape of it would deflect differently

[@EngineersArmory]

@@ThomasSimmons-j9l make sure your extractor is properly tuned before that. Also replacing an ejector can be a pain. It's easier to file the front of your existing ejector to get it to contact the brass in the correct spot to throw it where you want. That's just what I've found.

[@EngineersArmory]

@@ThomasSimmons-j9l recoil spring weight will affect ejection distance and direction too. This gun is over sprung from the factory.

[@ThomasSimmons-j9l]

@@EngineersArmory 👍 thanks what weight spring do you suggest Sir.

[@fattigla]

Great objective video!

[@devinadkins4090]

Great review, I was considering the carry model but I don’t like how they look, just personal preference but I bought the 5” model

[@zjan4me]

Hi there. Have bought this Pistol and completely agree the Tisas 1911/2011s are good starting points for folks like me that have the skill, tools and money to modify into a fantastic weapon. Questions: Barrel bushings are meant to tilt as part of the lock up function for the front of the barrel in conjunction with the rear two locking points on the lug and shroud. Can you elaborate on how this bushing was too loose? Did it not lock the barrel tightly when in battery? This is an essential part of accurizing the barrel and will be ready for serious hand work if need be. The grip module issues are concerning and I will be ready to address that if I replace the grip safety. Did you keep using the OEM spring housing? Thanks in advance and hope to compare notes when I'm done modifying mine.

[@EngineersArmory]

There are likely answers to these questions in the other videos I have posted about this pistol - there are a few of them. Browse my channel if you're interested. First regarding the barrel bushing: To my knowledge, from my experience, and from all the research I have done, the bushing OD to slide fit is not factored into the clearance for the barrel to tilt and action to unlock. The fit of the barrel hood in the slide, the upper lugs in the slide, the lower lugs, barrel link, and slide stop pin control unlocking at the chamber end of the barrel. The clearance at the front for tilting and action unlocking is determined by the clearance between the barrel and barrel bushing ID. I referenced the two 1911 shop manuals I have by Jerry Kuhnhausen to identify and calculate the ordinance specification for barrel bushing to slide clearance. Here is a link to what I referenced with the key information circled or underlined in red. At the top of the pictures is what manual and page # it comes from: www.reddit.com/user/rrppdd4/comments/1hf4c9r/1911_barrel_bushing_and_slide_dimensions_and_notes/ For ordinance spec bushing and slide machining, there is an allowance of .002-.010" fore-aft movement of the bushing in the slide (this is dictated at the gap between the front of the bushing lug and the back of the bushing flange. There is a diametrical clearance range from .0005-.006" between the OD of the bushing and ID of the slide. For a National Match barrel bushing, that clearance is brought in to .0005-.004". There are a couple pages in the linked sources that give information regarding optimal/accurized clearances - the diametrical clearance in that case is about .001" or less. One excerpt (linked and the specific sentence underlined) states that for accurizing purposes, "the bushing skirt should make maximum and even contact with the inside of the slide." I interpret this as the minimum possible diametrical clearance which still allowing takedown of the pistol. Certainly, a bushing on the looser end of the clearance range may move around and tilt a little as the barrel is tilting - but that is a symptom of its clearance and not by design. As little as .002" diametrical clearance or less between the bushing ID and barrel OD is enough to allow proper unlocking. A 1911 barrel does not have to tilt much. That allows very tight clearances between the barrel and bushing ID for accuracy purposes. Loose barrel to bushing fit negatively affects accuracy. A loose bushing in the slide negatively affects accuracy. This gun out of the box was printing 6" groups at 15 yards - it was pretty bad. The barrel was very loose at the muzzle end when locked up. The original bushing had .008" diametrical clearance with the slide and .012" fore-aft movement. Both those are out of even the looser ordinance specification range. The slide ID was .004" larger than the high specification listen in the diagram I provided (.706") The new bushing I fit ended up with .001" diametrical clearance between the bushing OD and slide ID. Fore-aft clearance ended up at .002". I like to be able to remove my barrel bushings without the use of a wrench (tighter than that is usually reserved for bullseye pistols). I machined the diametrical clearance between the barrel OD and bushing ID to .003". This was a little looser than I hoped - but due to the engagement and lockup at the chamber end this larger clearance was needed for proper function. This work made the pistol capable of as much accuracy as I am as a shooter. There was still room for improvement on the chamber end of the lockup - It was also not tight when in battery. Hope that answers your barrel bushing related questions. Separate comment for the grip module one.

[@EngineersArmory]

Regarding the grip module: I later identified the grip bushing holes in the frame as the culprit. They are slightly too low - spacing the grip module down. I used the OEM spring housing at first with the aftermarket grip safety. Then I later fit a steel main spring housing to add weight to the grip - it had the same issue - it was not long enough to capture the bottom of the grip safety. I did a lot of screwing around with it and eventually put the factory grip safety back in. I would recommend leaving the factory grip safety in. Bob it if you want it shorter, adjust the disengagement point to your liking. Another issue with these Tisas frames is that the frame radius for the grip safety is not the standard .250" radius. So aftermarket grip safeties (the majority of which are for the .250" radius) leave a huge gap between the grip safety and frame that pinches the web of your hand when firing. I had all these same issues with the MAC9 DS I bought later (also made by Tisas - essentially the bull barrel version of this pistol). Hope that answers your grip module/grip safety question.

[@zjan4me]

@EngineersArmory Nice! Great info! The bushing does indeed act as part of the lockup mechanism and as I mentioned is a big part of the accurizing I'd the barrel/gun. The references and details you provided will be studied and out to good use on my end. A few other reviewers upgraded to Wilson Combat bushings and I will probably go that route as well with any necessary fitting. I really appreciate the great info provided!

[@EngineersArmory]

@@zjan4me You're welcome! Free PDF's of the two Kuhnhausen manuals I referenced can be found online. I would highly recommend tracking them down and using them if you're doing any 1911 gunsmithing. They are a wonderful source! The barrel bushing to slide fit is part of the lockup tightness of the barrel to slide, and therefore an integral part of the accuracy equation - I agree. I disagree that the clearance between the barrel bushing OD and slide is needed to allow the barrel to properly unlock. I would love to see a source on that. All the clearance for the barrel to tilt (at the front), and action to unlock comes from the clearance between the Bushing ID and barrel. We might also be thinking about it different ways, or talking about different things. The Wilson Combat bushing is a good option. It was drop in for me, no fitting required, and significantly tightened up the fit. I later installed a gunsmith fit bushing from EGW and I was still not satisfied with the lockup. That required some serious machining and fitting.

[@zjan4me]

@EngineersArmory I have fitted bushing to include even a few with integrated brakes (which ultimately yielded no benefits!) I have learned that every part on a 1911 really does need hand fitting most of the time. For me the breakthrough moment is when I purchased all the proper tools, jigs/fixtures etc to do it right. Triggers and grip safeties are "nits" for me and am not happy till it's crisp and "just right". I have tackled several barrel refits now with great success. You can purchase decent barrels that are mostly there but do require many steps (just watch all the videos on all that is required to do it right!) to make them play nicely with the frame, slide/breach. Thanks for chatting!

[@jamestidwell294]

@engineersarmory I'm converting the Tisas DS Carry to a Prodigy. I'm having issues with hammer drop with no grip safety. Can you give me some direction on how to fix this issue?

[@EngineersArmory]

Need more information. Even with more information I may be able to only point you to a number of different possibilities. What do you mean converting it to a Prodigy? Putting a prodigy grip module on it? what do you mean "hammer drop with no grip safety"? are you getting hammer follow while firing? is the hammer dropping to its safety catch when you drop the slide on an empty chamber? what does the grip safety have to do with that? Do it only do it with or without the grip safety installed? or with or without the grip safety disengaged?

[@jamestidwell294]

@EngineersArmory While sending you that message, I solved my own question. The reason the hammer was falling without the grip safety was because I didn't have the damn thing in...its been 3 days working on it to figure it out that I was an idiot. Thank you for all your videos. They are enjoyable, entertaining, and informative.

[@EngineersArmory]

@@jamestidwell294 Glad you got it figured out! Glad you're enjoying the content. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@jamestidwell294]

@EngineersArmory I was trying to convert to a Prodigy grip. I have a Wilson Combat MSH that was causing problems with the Sear spring. I had to take everything back to the stock parts i.e MSH and Sear spring and put them back in the Tisas grip module. I can not for the life of me get the other parts to work in the Prodigy frame.

[@EngineersArmory]

@@jamestidwell294 Ah gotcha. Try changing one part a time (new mainspring only, then new sear spring only). I put a Prodigy grip module on my MAC9DS (pretty much the same as this gun but with a bull barrel). It took a good deal of fitting. The MAC9 MSH would not work with the Prodigy grip module. I installed a Prodigy MSH. Mainspring housings will generally need fit to the frame/grip module. There is also quite a bit of variation in 2011 main spring housings I have found. I installed a heavy steel mainspring housing into the Tisas grip module and it needed A TON of fitting. It was a real pain. None of these parts will be "drop in" unfortunetely.

[@biga6972]

Where did you get that magwell?

[@EngineersArmory]

dawsonprecision.com/magwell-for-sti-staccato-2011-gen-1-grips-tactical-advantage-by-dawson-precision/

[@scottdavis681]

Great video. I'll be spending the extra $$ for a different 2011. I heard bad things about the Prodigy. I would like the Platypus but in all reality my budget is where the Tisas is unfortunately. Do you own a good 2011 under $2k?

[@EngineersArmory]

This is the only one i own currently. I will likely buy the Mac9 DS and and LFA Apollo 11 eventually. The Prodigy is a really decent gun. The early production ones were rough but they have their manufacturing dialed in now. I think they are about a $1000 gun for $1200 or $1300, but you're paying extra for the American manufacturing. I would still recommend them. This Tisas is good value if you can find it for $700 or less. Keep an eye on Battlehawk Armory for sales. If you get one and the optic cut is tight or the barrel bushing is loose, those are not super expensive fixes by a competent gunsmith. Without having a Mac9DS in my hands i would say its probably better value. I have seen them for as low as $830. They are essentially this gun with a bull barrel. The slide, frame, barrel, and internals will all be good quality like they are on this gun. Hope this helps and I will post more videos on the Mac9DS or Apollo11 if i buy them. Thanks for watching.

[@djgsc9870]

Can u tell me when u filed the optic cut did u do both front and back or just the back of the cut?

[@EngineersArmory]

Check out my "optics cut fail" video on this pistol. It's pretty recent. I go into detail and show exactly where I needed to remove material.

[@davecasson5040]

What grip module did you go with?

[@EngineersArmory]

factory grip module. I just stippled it. I recently got a MAC9DS which pretty much has the same grip module as this. I replaced it with a prodigy grip module and I think thats the way to go.

[@aperturelabs8552]

I really curious about your take on glock. Is glock's slide finish difficult to drill holes into?

[@EngineersArmory]

Havent cut into a glock slide yet. I'm sure I will at some point. In general, with every pistol i have ported, the nitride finish on a slide and barrel is very hard. I bust thru the nitride with a carbide endmill. Then usually just bore any holes or rip any slots in the slide/barrel I need from there. A nice, sharp, 4 flute carbide endmill (coated or not), makes quick work of the nitride finish. I dont even bother with center drilling or drill bits anymore because it just roaches them immediately. I have noticed variation in nitride thickness in the slides and barrels I have machined, the hardness all seems comparable. Once I break thru that, the stainless steel or CMV alloy steel is easy to machine. There are many different nitrocarburization processes, but they all produce similar finish, corrosion resistance, and surface hardness, the main difference is how long they let it sit in the molten salts to make a thinner or thicker layer. In regards to Glock in general, they are reliable. But nothing about their performance, features, ergonomics, or price has impressed me. I personally will not support a company that has refused to innovate for 30 years and just rides on their laurels. I have heavily modified gen 3 and 4 glock clones and even at their best I feel they are just "meh" compared to upgraded hammer fired pistols (DA/SA or SAO). In comparison to other striker fired pistols, there are a lot on the market that are just as reliable, but perform better and feel better in my hands while also being cheaper. And once upgraded the other perform as good or better than the Glocks.

[@aperturelabs8552]

​@@EngineersArmory You are absolutely right about Glock's lack of innovation and "meh" feel, even after heavy mod (which I did too)... It's shameful. I have tried CZ (P10 F) and Springfield (Prodigy)... Shit, I even Tried Taurus PT92 and G2c(I am brazilian)... But the gun that fits my hands the best is Glock. I wish we could have more access to guns in Brazil, but they are expensive as hell down here... I bought my G34 in 2020 for the equivalent of 3000 dollars!

[@EngineersArmory]

@@aperturelabs8552 Oh shit dude thats wild! out of curiosity what would those other guns cost in Brazil in comparison to the Glock 34?

[@aperturelabs8552]

@@EngineersArmory When I bought them... First to last: Taurus PT92 $1000 Taurus G2c $700 CZP10F $2500 Glock G34 $3000 (Glock is considered "premium" here). Glock G17 $3000 Glock G19 $3000 Prodigy $4000 Please notice that from the first to last.. dollar price skyrocketed here... And I round the numbers... My Prodigy was actually about $4250. 1 dollar today is worth R$ 5.6 ("reais", which is brazilian currency). And if you think this is expensive... You should see the cars price here... It's outrageous. Just an example: 2024 Honda Civic ("luxury car" down here): $50.000... yes.

[@EngineersArmory]

@@aperturelabs8552 Thats crazy! Thanks for sharing. its always so interesting to hear other peoples experience living in different countries.

[@rhino67]

Excellent vid, sub'ed I have the B45D, i wanted to learn the 1911 so I gutted it and smithed all new Wilson Bombproof internals its now BUTTER, love it. Thinking ill pick up one of these and do the same

[@ritchieperez5838]

would you choose this instead of the night stalker?

[@EngineersArmory]

Yes. I would buy this. With the nightstalker you're paying for decorative slide milling, a different color of cerakote, a magwell, and a threaded barrel. I don't care about any of those features (with the exception of the magwell - I got one that I think looks cooler for $60). If those features were important to you then the nightstalker is probably a good option becuase it is only like $150 more. In terms of the issues I found with this gun, those are general tolerancing and manufacturing issues that I would also expect to find on the nightstalker. I wouldn't expect the extra money for the nightstalker to net me anything in terms of better fit or tolerances. The real question is this pistol or the Mac9 DS. I wouldn't be able to answer that question unless I got a Mac9 DS and really dug into it like i did with this pistol. However either I, or one of my friends will probably buy the Mac9ds at some point so I'll probably be able to answer that question down the road.

[@ritchieperez5838]

@@EngineersArmory Thank you so much for a indepth reply appreciate you and more power to the channel!!💪💪💪

[@EngineersArmory]

@@ritchieperez5838 no problem man! Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@thebobbydrake6]

Thanks

[@merkyworks]

At $580 these are tempting

[@EngineersArmory]

I've seen em as low as $555 I think. I wish that's what I paid haha. Kinda a rip off at 750

[@killmongers550]

For your Magwell did you have to drill through the frame to get the pin to hold the Magwell and also what is the Magwell if you don’t mind me asking ?

[@EngineersArmory]

No drilling required. The magwell comes with a longer mainspring housing pin that replaces the factory one and retains the magwell. This is a Dawson precision gen 1 Staccato magwell. Fits like a glove. dawsonprecision.com/magwell-for-sti-staccato-2011-gen-1-grips-tactical-advantage-by-dawson-precision/

[@killmongers550]

@@EngineersArmory awesome thank you for the link and did you change the beaver tail to the Wilson combat concealed tail I was looking into changing mine and was wondering about fitment ?

[@EngineersArmory]

@@killmongers550 I got the Ed Brown concealed carry grip safety. With the grip module/frame issue I wasn't able to install it. It would just flop out the back becuase the mainspring housing was too low. I did order a new mainspring housing but I don't know if that will even allow me to run it with how big the gap is. Other than that the grip safety fit fine, the tang needed filed down to adjust the release point but thats expected with any new grip safety.

[@killmongers550]

@@EngineersArmory awesome bro thank you for all the knowledge

[@pissywilly]

​@dltz do the tisas mags need new baseplates to properly seat??

[@mmike40451]

Why would you run a full size light on a short barrel?

[@EngineersArmory]

Most "duty" style lights are full size. Ones that will handle serious abuse. I have seen lots of streamlight TLR-1 and Surefire X300 on glock 19s and other 4" barrel service pistols. I think its pretty common. I wanted to run either a Streamlight TLR-1 or the X300A becuase I use blackhawk omnivore holsters that index off those lights. They are the OWB retention holster I run at the range for practice. Another reason may be that the TLR-1 and X300 lights are so common that there are many more holster options from major holster manufacterers for popular pistols with those lights.

[@Charlie-yt1yq]

Gun is 580 now

[@Lawyerboyleslie72]

499

[@bunkstagner298]

get that #%& ligh OFF that gun. Obey rule #2 and if you don't know what it is I would suggest you look up the 4 rules of gun safety.

[@EngineersArmory]

🙄

[@jakepalmer1747]

Found the fudd

[@codyi7102]

You are the same type of person to accidentally shoot one of your family members due to not being able to identify your target. Its ok gramps, lets get you back to the nursing home

[@codyi7102]

Tell me, whats 1 just 1 disadvantage of having a light on your gun. Dont worry, ill wait

[@brianbence1814]

Take the rail off of a 1911...only Timmy tacticals have to include a full size light on a commander 1911...makes no sense!

[@MyLonewolf25]

Ok boomer

[@codyi7102]

Since you know everything, please give us 1 just 1 disadvantage of having a light on your gun. Dont worry, ill wait

[@selimnesimi906]

I bought the Mac nine and also the Tisa 5 inch Mac nine is 4 1/4 quarter. I don’t know if you’re close to Jersey maybe I can send them out to you. You can do some work on them and I’ll pay you.

[@EngineersArmory]

No thanks. I do this for fun. Not interested in turning it into a business.

[@selimnesimi906]

Then I’ll get on the website maybe you can help me out now then and I’ll pick up the gunsmith

[@selimnesimi906]

You’re very good at it and I’m mean you’re very good. I like what you do keep up the Having fun