KTM wheel bearing replacement- Tokyo Offroad WBPT use

[@shanefoote4808]

The best KTM/Husqvarna mechanic and videos on KZbin… period.

[@pjbuckmaster]

I really like how you do step by step and don’t cut a bunch of things out.

[@getslimdad]

awesome video, I'll add grease to each bearing before fitting. dust seals off carefully, fill the bearing with water proof quality high temp grease and then reseal and install. OEM bearings all tend to be under greased. love the tools makes life so much easier. My son's bike at 30hrs had the rear wheel bearings seize, caused a very serious off resulting in 3cm break on his collarbone, he gave up riding after the accident, so can't stress enough the importance of good quality preventative maintenance

[@michaelglennon82]

hi great video thanks, do you know if the tool will work with 690 wheels too ?

[@michail1963]

Just to share a few tips: 1) it is very easy to remove the seal without damaging it (if needed to keep) by using a standard 10-12mm wrench...just need to hook the edge of the wrench on the metal ring of the seal and pry out against the bearings (work the sides evenly) 2) It pays off to use the needle or pin, carefully open the seal on the bearing itself, and dump as much as possible grease into the bearing.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Mikhail - Good tips. Thanks for sharing.

[@GenkiDamaSSJ]

what do you mean by "it pays off to use the needle or pin"?

[@lassivaatamoinen5468]

@@GenkiDamaSSJ Meaning: you can use, for example, a very small screwdriver to pop out the dust shield of the bearing, and apply more grease in there. Then just place the dust cover back on. In these particular bearings the old one has red dust cover, the new ones have black dust covers.

[@lonniedomnitz1720]

No more than 20-30% fill in grease - or the increased resistance can overheat the bearings and cause additional drag.

[@chrismiksovsky5871]

Just ordered this and replaced my bearings as per the video. Went perfectly. Great tool and great instructional video.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Thanks for the feedback and pleased it went smoothly.

[@CW-up7xv]

@@TokyoOffroad I ordered the kit a year ago. After 450 hours my rear wheel bearings needed replacement (2017 KTM 300XC). can't believe they lasted that long. anyhow, it was very easy with this kit, money very well spent. Of note, the collar inside the hub took some work to get out of the way to use the hammer/punch method. It's very helpful to get the hub around 200 deg F. to punch the bearings out. I also installed the skf bearings and seals which are very good quality. Threw on a brand new M5B tire and zero bearing play. Great tutorial!

[@TokyoOffroad]

@@CW-up7xv - I'm pleased to hear the wheel bearing press tool worked well for you. Yes, definitely heat the hub before removing the old bearings to minimize the chance of damaging the hub. The key to long bearing life is minimizing water penetration in to the bearings. Good seals such as the SKF ones you fitted help, as does applying some grease to the bearing face and renewing the grease when you change tires.

[@CW-up7xv]

@@TokyoOffroad always renew grease on tire changes. Try to fill area between seal and bearing w grease. I live in the US PNW and dealing with wet conditions is routine. Like your presentation. I'm an engineer at heart and the devil is always in the details so your tutorials have been great data points for me. I usually pick up one or two tips from each video you post. Can't wait for the continuation of your bottom end series.

[@milosbgd]

Very elegant way to press in the bearing !

[@ThisTall]

Great video! So both bearings could just be hammered out like the first one?

[@TokyoOffroad]

Yes, you can hammer out both bearings. Be sure to remove the spring clip before doing so though.

[@miro_s]

Very nice video, thank you. Wondering why there is a circlip on one side only.

[@niklasbulling112]

God i could watch this all day. Thank you

[@dtsouza2519]

Excellent video. I really like the tool set in the red blow molded case you used to remove the old bearings. I don't see the tool kit on your web site. Could you tell me the name brand of the tool and how I can purchase that tool. Thanks for taking the time to make it!

[@TokyoOffroad]

Pleased you enjoyed the video. I purchased the blind bearing puller set a number of years ago here in Japan. My recommendation is to find a similar set locally as the set is heavy and expensive to ship overseas.

[@slagletoby]

Great vid thanks. For everyone, install OEM if you replace your bearings. Pivot Works, All Balls, Enduo Engineering etc... are poorly manufacture junk that last 6-weeks if you ride hard every weekend. OEM will last a season +. Reliability is A-#1.

[@iandaintith]

Thanks for the vid. Can you recommend the bearing puller kit?

[@greatfallskam]

Do you know who makes the bearing remover that anchors over the hub?

[@87Vikström]

Really liked that you use "economic" and special tools setup in this tutorial! :D

[@ashwillmot2051]

I did a friend's rear wheel bearings recently. It would appear that the KTM kit which included new spacers and everything had a centre spacer that was slightly longer than the distance between the two seating lips of the hub. I only noticed this once I had it all back together. A local mechanic told me that he regularly has to make sure he does not drive the second bearing outer race all the way home. He stops short when the inner race contacts the spacer tube. What a crap design perhaps? Or did the engineers allow for a certain amount of crush in the system when the rear wheel is torqued correctly? Im thinking I might need to do it again so that the bearings are not being side loaded. What are your thoughts? It would appear that your tool only drives the thing in till the inner race hits the spacer tube. Guess I should get one.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Sorry to hear about the problem. Yes, that's an advantage of using a press tool like I offer as excessive side load will not be applied to the bearing during installation if you stop pressing it in when you feel an increase in resistance as shown in the video. The tool significantly reduces the chance of messing up the installation.

[@ashwillmot2051]

@@TokyoOffroad its weird its not machined same don't you think. Why even have a lip for the outer race to sit against if its not a locator? Before I pull it apart I'm going to ask a couple of other Ktm shops.

[@TokyoOffroad]

@@ashwillmot2051 - Yes, the center metal tube spacer length is important and will determine the overall width between the outside edges of the external spacers.

[@Longbobsilvers]

Do you remember where you purchased that puller? It is surprisingly hard to find

[@TokyoOffroad]

I purchased my set about 10 years ago in Japan, but think it's an import set, probably made in Taiwan.

[@Longbobsilvers]

@@TokyoOffroad thanks!

[@mijosipek5052]

5:20 how about a brass rod to take the spacers or aliuminium...

[@TokyoOffroad]

Zuti List - Yes, any rod should work fine. If you intend to reuse the spacers be careful not to hit them hard

[@AlexKost-tq6bj]

What brand is your blind bearing puller? Looks like a Sealy? What do you think of the Motion Pro? It only has the slide hammer, not the bridge puller thinger -> wondering if those can be purchased independently

[@TokyoOffroad]

The blind bearing puller set I purchased from a local tool shop in Japan. It's unbranded and I think is probably imported from Taiwan. Not the best quality but works OK. I have quite a few Motion Pro tools and like them. I haven't looked at their bearing puller set though.

[@scottlee2753]

I notice you didn't pop the seals on the bearings to pack them with good water proof grease before you installed them. I have done this for years and they lasted longer. They come hardly any grease.

[@muhendisane6423]

I thought the same thing. It's a good mechanics technic but not everyone knows it. Also it's a good idea to put waterproof grease on to inside of a seal lip. And lightly grease outside of the seal to mount it easily and prevent it from damaging when install.

[@codenamenoob4973]

I find for removing the seals the easiest way is to use a pair of vise grips to lever off the old bearing, super easy, of course a proper seal remover is ideal but anyone that has tools has a pair of vise grips. In my experience I've never had to heat up the hub, wheel bearings usually come out easy enough with little effort just don't hit them too hard on one side or they get stuck

[@shaunreynolds3318]

Ordered the wbpt and received it 3 days later. Not sure how it got from Japan to Seattle that fast but I’m not complaining!

[@TokyoOffroad]

Really pleased that you received it quickly and thank you for your business. Hope you enjoy using the WBPT...

[@bikevault2302]

hi Tokyo, on the sprocket side, I had an extra plastic washer under the bearing. I assume its there to keep the long centre spacer centralized?

[@TokyoOffroad]

Yes, that's right, it keeps the the spacer centered when the axle is removed. I usually don't bother refitting it though and don't experience issues with installing the axle during tire changes.

[@bikevault2302]

@@TokyoOffroad awesome, thanks for the reply.

[@ThisTall]

@@TokyoOffroadany idea why the spacer is only on the 1 side? The hub diameter is the same on both sides and that centre spacer can still misalign on the disc side without one there.

[@ThisTall]

@@TokyoOffroadalso, how does yours assemble properly without adding the plastic spacer? Mine spaces the sprocket side bearing out that 1/8” when it’s installed. So if it doesn’t go back in, how does your centre spacer not prevent the sprocket side bearing from seating in all the way to the hub lip?

[@TokyoOffroad]

@@ThisTall The axle tube fits through the plastic spacer (if you use it) and is intended to help keep the tube centered when the axle is removed during tire changes. The bearings should both touch the axle tube. When installing the second bearing you should press it in so it lightly contacts the tube. If you press it in too far (difficult to press in too far if using the Tokyo Offroad WBPT, but can be done is using a socket or similar on the outer race) it can bind up and not run smoothly.

[@JoshStreetDesign]

If I have anodized hubs, with the torch ruin the finish?

[@TokyoOffroad]

Yes, if you apply too much heat the surface finish could change. I aim for about 50degC (just too hot to touch comfortably) which will not cause any damage...

[@JoshStreetDesign]

@@TokyoOffroad thanks. I'll be putting your tool to use again, ha ha

[@TokyoOffroad]

@@JoshStreetDesign Thanks. Hope it goes smoothly

[@JoshStreetDesign]

@@TokyoOffroad So I installed my bearings the other night and I absolutely love your tool It makes things so easier... The only problem is I can't figure out a way to tighten the nut to the bottom piece so that when I turn the top on the other side it doesn't spin the rod all the way through... I wish you would include a reverse thread nut so that they could back up against each other and the bottom wouldn't spin out...

[@TokyoOffroad]

@@JoshStreetDesign Pleased to hear that you found the tool to work well. If you don't mind having the base installed on the rod all the time, my recommendation is to threadlock the rod to the base to prevent it coming loose.

[@alejoYVR]

I changed mine this weekend, but the center spacer rod is very tightly pressed against both bearing inner races... I don't remember it being like that. How do you prevent that from happening, is it a problem?

[@jswervy16]

Pretty sure you're missing the distance ring

[@jswervy16]

Hey Mark! I found a distance ring in my hub but gnarled it up getting bearing out. Mixed stories on whether it's necessary. My 350 XCF doesn't have one. You don't in this video either. Thoughts?

[@TokyoOffroad]

If you're talking about the plastic ring, I don't reinstall them. The function is to keep the central long spacer centered in the hub when the axle is removed to allow easier axle insertion when re-installing the wheel to the bike, but I have never had any issues without the plastic ring so choose to not use them.

[@jswervy16]

@@TokyoOffroad that's it. I was confused. It was the first time I'd seen one come out of a wheel. 😂

[@danpluso]

Hey, I always value your opinion. What do you think about removing just the seals, circlip, and bearing cover rings to grease the bearings? My 2020 bearings feel fine at 60 hours but I just finished greasing everything on the bike except the wheel bearings. No one ever talks about greasing the wheel bearings nor does the manual mention it either. I think most people just grease once when they replace the bearings.

[@TokyoOffroad]

To grease the bearing (to prevent water ingress) you can just remove the spacers then pack grease in between the dust seal and bearing.

[@danpluso]

@@TokyoOffroad I understand what you are saying but I was referring to actually exposing the ball bearings. There are a few youtube videos out there about it. One was on a 2017 KTM. The guys in the videos use a pick to remove a metal ring and expose the ball bearings.

[@paul1967a]

Hi, have you done a video on replacing steering head bearings? Thanks

[@TokyoOffroad]

No, it’s on my list of videos to make...

[@paul1967a]

@@TokyoOffroad ok cheers, great videos by the way.

[@tkrey23]

Does the bearing puller work on the first bearing, when the inner spacer is still in place? Looks like they might conflict. Also - what do you like for parts cleaner? Looks like non-chlorinated brake cleaner? Thanks for your videos!

[@TokyoOffroad]

korndoggocr - Yes, the puller works fine on the first bearing with the spacer still in place. The puller is able to grip due to the chamfer on the bearing face and spacer. Regarding parts cleaner, typically I use brake cleaner.

[@josequeiros4441]

hello, amazing videos, thanks for sharing... can you tell me, what is de reference for the skf bearings and seals please? thanks.

[@TokyoOffroad]

I don't know what bike you have. Different year/models have different size axles and require different SKF seal kits. It's probably easiest if you search on Google and find an online shop which you like to use which stocks SKF.

[@josequeiros4441]

thanks, for the answer, my bike is the ktm 250 exc 2017, I already search but cant find what I want... thanks anyway

[@TokyoOffroad]

The part numbers for SKF seal/bearing kits seems to be as below, but please double check before ordering: Rear 20mm axle: WSB-KIT-R006-KTM-HUS Front 22mm axle: WSB-KIT-F023-KTM

[@josequeiros4441]

thanks, regards...

[@josex360x]

Awesome webshop. It took no time to place an order. I have a question for you. I have a new TX300 and I bought wheels that sat on a FC350 2015. The wheel spacers are not the same, but it seemed they could be switch on the front wheel. On the back wheel, the spacers sit pretty hard. I don’t want to use forced on the and risk making damage to the bearings. How can I take them off? Are the wheels compatible by just replacing the spacers?

[@TokyoOffroad]

Yes, you should be able to fit the wheels by just changing the spacers. The bearing size is the same.

[@shaunreynolds3318]

Will this tool work on both a husky TE and a TX rear wheel? I believe they are different size axles.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Yes, the Tokyo Offroad WBPT will work on both the TE and TX wheels. The bearing size is the same on both wheels, it's only the spacer size which is different...

[@deangraves908]

Hey quick question. I have a 2014 ktm 250xc and I am in the midst of replacing the wheel bearings however it seems there is a rubber insert that seems to go below the wheel bearing on the brake side and it seems the axle tube goes inside this little rubber insert in order to clear both bearings but now that I have the bearing seated on the brake side, my wheel seal doesnt seem to want to seat nicely. Do you have any tips or tricks? I didn't see anything about that in your video so I'm a little stumped

[@TokyoOffroad]

The piece is to center the bearing spacer tube in the hub when the axle is removed. It is important that if you use it the spacer tube must pass through (it must not be positioned between the spacer tube and the bearing. I typically do not reinstall them. The only advantage of having it installed is when installing the wheel in the bike the axle may pass through easier as the spacer tube is held in good alignment. But I've never had an difficulties without it...

[@deangraves908]

@@TokyoOffroad when reinstalling it without the rubber piece how do you seat your bearing on the side that is supposed to have it? I found the tube impeded on the seating of the bearing on the other side where you install the circlip. Thanks a ton!

[@TokyoOffroad]

@@deangraves908 Install the bearing with the circlip first, install the spacer tube, install the second bearing until the inner race just touches the spacer tube. Confirm that the spacer tube is correctly aligned and if not re-align it and press in the second bearing further if necessary. There should only be light lateral force on the inner races, but they should hold the spacer in place.

[@deangraves908]

@@TokyoOffroad thanks mate! I'll likely do this next time. The rubber insert is a pain anyway haha.

[@thebogeyman]

Who makes that bearing puller kit you used?

[@TokyoOffroad]

It’s an import (probably made in Taiwan) which doesn’t have the manufacturer marked. I purchased it locally in Japan. It’s reasonable quality and holding up fine for my use. Hopefully you can find something similar local to you.

[@revhappy999]

Awesome video!! I was looking for resources to change the wheel bearings on a spare set of wheels for my 690 Enduro/ 701 Supermoto. I have a bearing puller and driver kit althiugh not similar to the tools you have. Could you please share the links to where I can buy the tools in the video. It would be of great help. Thanks in advance!

[@TokyoOffroad]

I’m pleased you enjoyed the video. The blind bearing puller kit I purchased many years ago in Japan. Similar kits are available on Amazon. The bearing press tool I make and sell on the Tokyo Offroad web shop here: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/wheel-bearing-press-tool-wbpt/ I can make custom sizes to order if required.

[@Shecki603]

Any plans on making one of these that will work with the 22mm front axles that come on the newer KTMs? I see it's set up for 25 and 30mm now.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Shecki - The Tokyo Offroad WBPT will work fine on new KTM front wheel bearings. They use 6906 bearings which have a 30mm internal diameter. The 22mm you quoted is the axle size, not the bearing size. Thanks for your interest in the tool.

[@Shecki603]

Fantastic info. Thank you.

[@jamescrozier2806]

Will this bearing press tool work on a 2020 ktm 500 exc. I think the axel size is 20 and 22mm.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Yes, the wheel bearing press tool will work great on 2020 models. The axle size doesn’t actually matter. The bearings used have internal bore diameters of 25mm (rear) and 30mm (front). Spacers are used between the bearings and axle.

[@jamescrozier2806]

@@TokyoOffroad thx. Mike from tacomoto sells your press tool on his website. I’m definitely going to order.

[@AndrewBoundy]

Once again, TO saves the day. I didn't even know how to get the spacers off - I'd be 100% lost without this channel. Thank you. Do you deliver to Mexico ? - I feel like I need to buy a few things to say thanks.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Pleased to hear you find the videos useful. Yes, I can ship to Mexico by UPS.

[@tamascrosscountryadv5426]

that's a perfect step-by-step tutorial, thank you :)

[@jozsefwicha3459]

Lubrication is not needed? If it is, what should we apply?

[@TokyoOffroad]

No, I don't use, or recommend lubrication to install the wheel bearings.

[@SLP-eb1wp]

jergens

[@blazter6489]

What is the specific name for the seals? I watched the whole skf catalog and cant find them. I saw in a video that they can rotate.

[@TokyoOffroad]

The rear wheel seal/spacer kit part number is R006-KTM-HUS. The SKF seals included in the kit are part# WS108

[@blazter6489]

@@TokyoOffroad Thank you I appreciate it!

[@zactwentythree]

Great tutorial. I had a look at the website.. some nice bits of tackle there 👌

[@dammitanothername]

if this were a little larger it could be used for washing machine bearings. If during the install you pinch the new bearing it will fail often within months. Which is a lot of tedium to deal with because you have to do another removal and install.

[@everettkellner]

Hi there, what size circlip is supposed to go on the caliper side? Cant seem to find a size. Thanks

[@TokyoOffroad]

Everett Kellner - I just measured one. 50mm external diameter, 1.8mm thick

[@everettkellner]

@@TokyoOffroad thank you!

[@nicksampo5979]

Hi. I just knocked out my bearings and discovered a nylon/plastic spacer behind the bearing on the sprocket side. It that normal? I’ve destroyed it so I will have to get another before installing the bearings.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Nick Sampo - The plastic colar fits on the internal aluminum spacer. It’s purpose is to position the spacer in the center of the hub so that it lines up with the bearings and you can easily pass the axle through. You can get by without it, but you might find it a little more difficult to fit the axle through.

[@nicksampo5979]

Tokyo Offroad I tracked down a replacement so good to go again. In the videos I watched no one mentions it so I bashed away without a thought haha. Learn by mistakes I guess 👍.

[@neilkuberra3839]

Where did you get your bearing puller? Who makes it?

[@TokyoOffroad]

I got my blind bearing puller set from a local tool shop in Japan years ago. It was unbranded and most likely an import set from Taiwan.

[@otpipe]

How old is that wheel hub or how do you keep it looking good?

[@TokyoOffroad]

The wheel was a year old when the video was made. Washing after each ride keeps them clean. No special tricks...

[@mattkeno2405]

An old YZ 125 I had years ago had worn bearing races on the rear wheel, you could almost put the bearings in by hand, instead of getting a new hub which I couldn't afford, I just used a loctite product, think it was called bearing seat or bearing lock compound or something, it worked, because the bearings were a lot harder to get out.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Yes, Loctite 638, or 648 (retaining compound) can be used if the bearings aren't a good press fit in the hub

[@mikev8828]

Does the KTM WBPT Tool work for the 2015 KTM 690 Enduro R? I need to replace my front bearings. Would like to order and use it if its compatible.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Yes, the Tokyo Offroad WBPT will work fine with the 690 Enduro R front wheel bearings (6906 size), but please kindly note that it is not compatible with the rear wheel bearings, although I have made a custom tool for a customer.

[@artlizarraga677]

Is this tool only for ktm ?

[@TokyoOffroad]

It can be used on KTM, Husqvarna and GasGas full sized off-road & MX bikes. It should work fine with any wheel with 6906 front bearings and 6005 rear bearings.

[@goodboyringo9716]

What brand name bearing puller would that be ?

[@TokyoOffroad]

It’s an import (from Taiwan?) purchased in a local tool in Japan

[@Allinoffroad]

i ride atvs and sxs but these vids are so great to watch love your vids so much

[@GenkiDamaSSJ]

time to try 2 wheels!

[@PetterIvarsson]

Very good and informative videos. I will order some of the tools.

[@danimal7067]

I am a beginner when it comes to bearing removal/install and came across this awesome vdeo, the bearing install looks so easy with the WBPT( I will be purchasing one very soon)what brand is the puller and where did you get it thanks Dan in CT

[@TokyoOffroad]

Thanks for your interest in the Tokyo Offroad WBPT. Regarding the puller I have, I purchased it years ago from a tool shop in Japan, although the tool is made in Taiwan I think. There is no brand name on the tool. Sorry I can't be of more help...

[@donrohde101]

do you sell the bearing puller kit?

[@TokyoOffroad]

I have supplied bearing puller kits to a few customers who requested them, but due to the weight the shipping cost tends to be expensive. As such my recommendation is to try to find something local.

[@lostinpa-dadenduro7555]

If you are on the US search Alpha Moto 12pc bearing puller on Amazon. It’s the exact same.

[@maverick2242]

That's awesome, good vid and good info cheers

[@WildEnduro]

Hi Marc... can you share the ktm wheel bearing specs so I can order SKF ones?

[@TokyoOffroad]

Front wheel bearing size is 6906. Rear wheel bearing size is 6005. Kits with SKF bearings, seals and spacers are available. Your front wheel axle is 26mm diameter and requires the WSB-KIT-F008-KTM-HUS kit (includes bearings, seals and spacer). If you just want the front SKF seal and spacer kit the part number is W-KIT-F008-KTM-HUS. The rear kit for 20mm diameter axle is WSB-KIT-R006-KTM-HUS (bearings, seals and spacers), or W-KIT-R006-KTM-HUS for the seal and spacer kit.

[@WildEnduro]

Tokyo Offroad thank you very much !

[@TokyoOffroad]

Wild Enduro - Note, I don’t actually know what year, or model your bike is. The axle size is different depending on the model and year and the axle size will determine what size spacers you need. So please check your axle sizes before ordering

[@WildEnduro]

Tokyo Offroad 2020 350 Six days

[@TokyoOffroad]

I can't seem to find the parts list for the 2020 350 Sixdays. I'm fairly sure your rear axle is 20mm and the front is 22mm, so if you want an SKF bearing/seal/spacer kit then rear is WSB-KIT-R006-KTM-HUS and front is WSB-KIT-F023-KTM-HUS. But I recommend double checking your axle sizes and the above part numbers before ordering...

[@lostinpa-dadenduro7555]

I purchased this and it works great. 👍

[@12121971]

I have just purchased your oil drain tool and this press tool will be next on my list. What brand is that bearing puller kit, I've been looking for that exact style. Excellent products and videos ,thanks mate keep up the great work for the KTM DIY ers.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Thank you for your business. The bearing puller kit I have was purchased in Japan from a shop on Rakuten for about $110. It's not branded and is probably made in Taiwan. The quality seems fine. It can be used on blind bearings too (such as crankcase bearings) so thought it would be useful. item.rakuten.co.jp/ryukyumura/10000151/

[@BONDY35MI]

I’m surprised that your not supposed to use grease on the bearing spacer

[@TokyoOffroad]

The spacer is aluminum so doesn’t corrode and doesn’t move against anything so doesn’t require lubrication.

[@xhulkdieselx]

no grease?

[@TokyoOffroad]

BrookJ88 - No, don’t use grease to press the bearings in. By heating the hub and cooling the bearing, they should press in easily using the press tool.

[@xhulkdieselx]

10-4. thanks for the content, very helpful

[@Delboysparody]

Great videos but the music at the start is very annoying.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Peter Rohrs - I changed the intro music a year ago. Different annoying music now for 10 seconds ;-)

[@Delboysparody]

@@TokyoOffroad Oh yeh , much better. Please keep up the good work. Very well articulated, clearly explained and straight to point. :)

[@DavidSpeak]

So professional. Thanks.

[@mocnulis]

I like your video 💪 You do good job 😎

[@modenaro1776]

Just throw the new bearing in the freezer for 15 mins. Done.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Did you watch the video? I did (and always do) put the new bearings in the freezer. They don’t just drop in on their own though. And it’s when driving them in that many people have issues when they become canted in the bore. This is the reason I developed the bearing press tool.

[@stevehanson9917]

Grease!

[@jamesbramblett3346]

Excellent video and methods. Exactly how I do it. My ktms need rear bearings at least once a year. I added a grease fitting on my crf450x hub and rarely have to change bearings.

[@GenkiDamaSSJ]

that's pretty cool.