Toyota Manual Hub Conversion

Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
*PLEASE READ THIS AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video, we show you how to service Toyota Manual Hub Knuckles (Bearings and Seals Replacement) and install them on your Toyota SUV or Truck. The actual job was done on a 3rd Gen 4runner but it would work for 1st Gen Tacomas and possibly other Toyota model SUVs and trucks as well.
*Note* In the video, I wrongly assumed the play I was seeing in the old bearing we removed from Jordan's knuckle was completely due to force used to pressing the hub out of the bearing. After holding a new bearing in my hand, I realized the new bearings have similar play but not as much. So, these new bearings do have play and it's completely normal.
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
PLEASE READ THE PINNED COMMENT FOR LINKS TO ALL THE TOOLS WE USED FOR THIS JOB.
*PARTS*
*Outer Seal #90312-95001 - (Need 2)
amzn.to/2svFbED
*Inner Seal #90316-69001 - (Need 2)
amzn.to/2q39G3Q
*Snap Ring for bearing #90521-99114 -(Need 2)
ebay.us/wjgpCG
*Bearing Nut #43521-35010 - (Need 2)
amzn.to/2DvSxD6
*Hub body gasket #43422-60060 - (Need 2)
www.ebay.com/i...
*Hub cover gasket #43531-60010 - (Need 2)
www.ebay.com/i...
*Wheel Bearings #90369-54002 - (Need 2) amzn.to/33xTEg7
*Jordan didn't actually use Toyota wheel bearings. Instead, we bought these from Koyo (same as what Toyota uses): amzn.to/2t8rSH7
*Here's the part number for the hubs in case you needed to buy them for this mod: #43502-35160 They are pricey so it's best to find them from a used set of Tacoma knuckles. amzn.to/2Dva3HA
*Aisin Free Wheel Hubs FHT-019 - (these are equivalent to OEM) - (Need 2)
amzn.to/2P37vWG
*Here's the part number for the Tacoma Manual Hub CV axles in case you weren't able to source some used Tacoma axles for this projects. #434300401084 Again, it's better to find them used because they are very pricey. - (Need 2) www.toyotapart...
**If you want to also replace the needle bearing and brass bushings in the hub, you can buy them from this website. They are currently only supplying the needle bearings. (Dec 2019)
www.offroadsolu...
*Front Differential Fill Plug Crush Washer #12157-10010 (10 Pack)
amzn.to/37Et8VI
*Front Differential Drain Plug Copper Washer #90430-24003
amzn.to/37uARFO
*Red Line 75W90 GL-5 Full Synthetic Gear Oil (I use this for the transfer case and both differentials)
amzn.to/33eDHeq
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associate Members we earn from qualifying purchases.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

*TOOLS USED FOR THIS JOB* *If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.* www.amazon.com/shop/timmythetoolman?isPublicView=true *OTC Slide Hammer Pullet Set* - (To remove various seals) amzn.to/301Cg6D *Special 4 Pin Bearing Nut Tool* - (To remove bearing pre-load locknut) amzn.to/2TDWM69 *Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun* - (powerful gun to remove lug nuts and other fasteners) amzn.to/2M2Y9J1 *Dewalt Batteries* amzn.to/2urcx59 *Dewalt Battery Charger* amzn.to/2Ud8RlY *Wheel Lug Nut Impact Socket Set* - (nice set to remove different size lug nuts) amzn.to/33uatZt *Plastic Mallet* - (for pounding on things you don't want to mar up) amzn.to/2CCOqVP *1/2" Drive Breaker Bar - 24” Long* - (to break free bearing lock ring) amzn.to/343Vcix *Flexible Mini Magnet* - (nice for grabbing metallic things like the lock ring washer/spacer) amzn.to/32FVUSl *Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press* - (this is a great press that you'll lots of use from) www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-h-frame-industrial-heavy-duty-floor-shop-press-60603.html *In regards to the Press Plates* I used for this job, the 2 wide black plates came with the 20 ton Harbor Freight Press. The 2 skinnier black plates I bought at a fabrication shop. I just had them cut two pieces of steel to the dimensions I wanted. The 2 gold plates came as part of an 8 piece kit I bought off Amazon made by Sunex. It's not exactly a super affordable option but there is a more affordable 6 piece kit offered by Sunex that included 2 press plates. Here's a link: amzn.to/2tb83il *Wood 4 x 6 sections* - get a 4 x 6 at any hardware store and cut off the sections you need *Press Sleeve Kit* - (very handy for all kinds of pressing applications) ebay.us/4V5LlN *Mini Grease Gun* - (nice little gun for greasing applications) amzn.to/2KKDXf2 *Red Line CV-2 Grease* - (Good high temperature grease for applications like wheel bearings) amzn.to/37PQzvm *Brass Hammer* amzn.to/2QS3Ay7 *Brass Drift Set* - (use in place of a steel punch when you don't want to mar up metal surfaces. brass is softer that steel) amzn.to/2BrXfki *1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set* - (awesome ratchets that are super functional and will make your wrenching life easier) amzn.to/2ql8nNA *3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set* amzn.to/37iQjVt *Long Taper Punch Set* - (for various applications like staking the bearing preload lock ring) amzn.to/2O7o5Wx *Dremel Tool Kit* - (in case you run into the same problem we did and have to cut off one or both of the inner bearing races off the hub shaft) amzn.to/2DcQHqG *6 Ton Jack Stands* - (strong jack stands to support the vehicle you're working underneath) amzn.to/2MM91w6 *Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chocks* - (nice chocks that won't slip) amzn.to/2mttRWp *1/2" Deep Metric Impact Socket Set* amzn.to/2WfSTGD *1/2" Shallow Impact Socket Set* amzn.to/2pCrdPQ *Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet* - (this will decrease the time it takes you to remove and reattach fasteners) amzn.to/2utRZsE *Milwaukee M12 Batteries (2 Pack)* amzn.to/2uoQlZs *Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery* amzn.to/2HEFTpu *Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger* amzn.to/2uo2o9x *3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set* amzn.to/2OehCao *Brake Caliper Hanger Hooks* - (Instead of using bailing wire to hand brake calipers out of the way. they work really good) amzn.to/31JGsUA *Knipex Diagonal Cutters* - (to facilitate the removal of cotter pins and to cut off excess of new cotter pins) amzn.to/300BRRE *1/2" Drive Regular Impact Extension Set* amzn.to/2J7FYko *1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet* amzn.to/2Wnbq2r *OTC Front End Service Kit* - (great puller set for disconnecting tie rods and ball joints) amzn.to/2LuisQc *Rotary Hammer Chisel Set* - (thin chisel set for various uses like getting between the axle nut cover and hub to start the process of removing the axle nut cover) amzn.to/2OmiMCe *Chisel & Punch Set* - (to finish getting a big enough gap of the axle nut cover so you can fit a small pry bar in to pop it off the rest of the way) amzn.to/37Fwdor *Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set* - (a small pry bar is nice to pop off the axle nut cover once you get a large enough gap with the chisels) amzn.to/2Ob8THw *Ball Pein Hammer* - (for striking the chisels) amzn.to/2W5eHV5 *Large Metric Impact Socket Set (29mm-38mm)* - (contains the 35mm socket so you can remove the axle nut with your impact gun) amzn.to/2qdhWhG *Metric Allen Head Socket Set* - (to remove the fill and drain plugs of the front differential) amzn.to/348B8vL *OTC Long Prybar Set* - (a long pry bar is nice for knocking the CV axles into the differential) amzn.to/2O7pWKZ *242 Loctite* - (for the balljoint bolts) amzn.to/2puKrHn *CDI 1/2" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench* - (nice affordable torque wrench for large fasteners) amzn.to/2UPhyjK *CDI 3/8" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench* - (nice affordable torque wrench for medium fasteners) amzn.to/2U2vUA4 *Cotter Pin Set* - (for tie rod and balljoint castle nuts) amzn.to/2OoD38K *Snap Ring Pliers* - (to insert snap ring for free wheel hub) amzn.to/2ZZyZEB *Stubby 3/8" Ratchet* - (nice compact ratchet for jobs you don't require a lot of leverage for. also good for getting into tight area where a longer ratchet won't fit) amzn.to/2upFKNN *Gear Oil Pump* - (to refill your front differential) amzn.to/37xiCQ0 **As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases. **As Amazon Associate Members we earn from qualifying purchases.

[@84yoder]

I need one of those shirts he is wearing. Where to buy ??

[@nicratliff6596]

Great info here. I just got done completing a manual hub wheel bearing replacement using this vid. Something to note: I had really good luck freezing the wheel bearing and heating the steering knuckle in the oven for about 40 minutes on 350F (UBJ was removed). When smoking hot, I greased both interfaces and the wheel bearing just slid in; no potentially damaging pressing was required on that step. I also froze the hub spindle and by the time I had the snap ring and seal on the knuckle, the residual heat had heated the bearing enough so that the spindle pressed easily in(no popping), again using grease like Tim instructed. Just some additional info on probably the best instructional video I've ever seen. Thank you!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Nic, thanks for additional tips for this job. I never would have thought of using your technique. That's pretty cool you didn't even have to use a press. We're happy you found our video helpful. Happy Wrenching!

[@thepitpatrol]

@@TimmyTheToolman you can also find a video of a guy on KZbin microwaving a bearing and he shows you the size differenc before and after.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@thepitpatrol Ha ha. I can see the fireworks now.

[@zachmosteller4681]

Did you see a increase in mpg's?

[@jmaxim80]

I did this to my toyota truck, and it made the steering so much nicer for dailey driving. I wish they would have never gone away from locking hubs.

[@BananaBabys]

I just used the orielly bearing remover with an impact. Works great. Just need a press sleeve for pressing the hub back into the bearing because the kit doesn’t have one that will fit. This is better because no need to remove any ball joints so no alignment needed after. Worked great. Also u don’t need a press!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Interesting. I'd like to see what that tool looks like. You don't need an alignment after this job even with removing the steering knuckle. Nothing changes by disconnecting the ball joints. They are a fixed item. If you mess with removing tie rods or the lower control arms, then you need to get an alignment. I've seen these bearings take a tremendous amount of force to remove. If your impact isn't up to the task, you might be up shit creek without a paddle. A Harbor Freight 20 ton press will never fail and is a good investment. So, I'm not so sure your method is necessarily better. It's just different.

[@mkIIIsupras]

Hey Mr. Watson! Kelly Leben from the Mafia page here. Want to give you a huge thanks on all the videos. Saving me a ton of money and time with these step by step videos.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Kelly. Sean and I never get tired of hearing how our videos help people be self-sufficient with working on their own vehicles and saving tons of money in the process. Thanks for taking the time to let us know. Happy Wrenching!

[@techmarc6996]

That Grease packed behind the Seal is to prevent H2O intrusion. Keeping the inner surface of the Knuckle from corroding. Just some added protection.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, that's what we finally surmised was the reason, but it seems a bit overkill since there's seals fore and aft protecting from water intrusion.

[@ToyodaMaster-tq6ht]

Guys, there’s a company that makes reinforcing braces to weld onto the long upper section of the Tacoma/4Runner Spindle. Very inexpensive brackets & minimal work/welding to strengthen these less than adequate Spindle sections. It would make a great video too!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's already been made. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJDLppSJm9VmjNUsi=kT2Afev6z1evVxLA

[@ToyodaMaster-tq6ht]

Guys, you can remove the tie rod by whacking the Spindle just below the tie rod. The shock from a ball peen hammer strike will cause the taper to release. This works especially well if you don’t have the special ball joint separator.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We don't subscribe to smashing our steering components with a hammer. Some people subscribe to the Big F'ing Hammer Technique. We don't. I've never had a puller fail me, but I've seen mashed up components from "Mechanics" wailing on things with a hammer. I will sometimes tap on a part after I've loaded it with a puller, but I never solely used a hammer for the separation of tie rods or ball joints.

[@ToyodaMaster-tq6ht]

Great videos guys. It’d be nice to see a video focused only the Wheel Bearing press work. Without the excess work of the dismantling of the rest of the truck. Just a thought.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, there is a thing called fast forwarding. There is no excess work here. There are tools that allow a person to do the bearing removal with the steering knuckle on the vehicle, but we don't own those tools. We removed the knuckle to do the press work on a Harbor Freight 20 ton press. But, I do have a video focused just on the press work. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4XTgIygZdiIpqMsi=ndNZ5OXe75APzeHN

[@rightlanebandit9844]

One advantage of the locking hubs is when it is unlocked you can use 4 low in 2wd great for certain trailer pulling situations

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, you are absolutely right. It's also great for climbing steep mountain roads in 4Lo to keep your automatic transmission temps down.

[@rightlanebandit9844]

@@TimmyTheToolman mine is a manual

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@rightlanebandit9844 Well, I reckon you don't have to worry about high trans temps like us auto trans people do.

[@ToyodaMaster-tq6ht]

If you bend the cotter pin ends straight, then grad the loop end with the diagonal plier. You can tap the pin out by hitting the plier. You absolutely can reuse a cotter pin if it’s in good condition, & don’t have $$$ to throw away reusable parts.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you want to reuse something that costs next to nothing to replace, be my guest. It's your life. Cotter pins are never listed in any Toyota parts schematic as a reusable part and for good reason.

[@hectormeza9533]

Very detailed video step by step thats what we need 👏 because what if we start an not knowing what to do next congregation guy

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well Hector, I think you'll enjoy our channel because all of our videos are very detailed. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@marccurtis3464]

Guys, I've found that those clips come out much easier with a long flat jaw pair of Pliers. The hooks tend to slip off regular pin style Snap-Ring Pliers!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the tip Marc.

[@thepitpatrol]

I am sorry to ask this but is there anyway you can post a link to all 3 videos on the manual hub conversion? I have been through the whole video list and can not seem to find 2 of them. You guys are a national treasure for us Toyota owners. Hope y'all are making a ton of revenue off your channel because you save us tons all the time.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There's only 2 Shane. The 3rd video I have directed people to is our Upper Balljoint Replacement video to use as a reference to remove and reinstall the knuckle if they need to just replace the bearing and they're not doing the manual hub swap mod. Watch both videos. Part 1 is the complete job. Part 2 covers just the press work and shows what you need to do if you want to retain ABS function by swapping over the parts to your 4runner knuckles that have ABS ports.

[@thepitpatrol]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you so much. Just found your channel and love it and pointed a few of my friends to it. Sorry I missed the obvious, I had just scanned that one video and just saved it. Happy New Year to you and yours.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@thepitpatrol You're welcome Shane and good luck with the swap when you get around to doing it. Thanks for spreading the word about our channel to your buddies. Happy New Year and Happy Wrenching back at ya!

[@calorion]

Very interesting. I appreciate your sense of timing; unlike a lot of other videos, you know just when to speed things up and by how much to keep things flowing without getting boring. I might suggest some background music during the fast-forward portions.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're glad you approve of our video making. Thanks for the suggestion. Maybe we will start to add music to our speeded up sections. Happy Wrenching!

[@hdjoeiii]

Nice video as all ways. At 33.00 min, if you put the hub on something so it could spin ( with the studs pointing up) . Heated the race that was stuck on the hub it would have fallen off. I live in the rust belt so torches are a must in a shop

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I know the technique you're talking about. I saw a video of the South Main Auto guy using that technique. I don't have an oxy acetylene torch in my tool arsenal. I think I'd be there quite some time spinning the hub with butane torch but maybe it's worth a shot the next time I'm dealing with an inner race stuck onto the hub shaft.

[@echologged85]

Another great video, man! I have the same harbor freight shop press, got it to do my rear axle bearings on my T100. It's fantastic for the money, got it for about $150 with the 20% off when it was on sale. Keep up the great work.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video and thanks for taking the time to comment. I have to admit I was apprehensive to buy tools from Harbor Freight but I've been pleasantly surprised with the stuff I've bought from them so far. Along with the 20 ton press, I found their transmission jack to be pretty darn good for the price.

[@humildefelino]

Los felicito. Excelentes las explicaciones. De lo mejor. Muy probablemente es el mejor video que he visto por sus detalles. Gracias por la experiencia compartida.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like our video. We appreciate the nice compliment.

[@4runner4wd79]

Thanks. Yep, that’s what I’m doing now. I got pretty much everything I need. I appreciate it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That’s awesome Michael

[@liplessyeti444]

Thank You for this video. I’m about to do this with my gen3 and this video has saved me a lot of time in research. You guys are great.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Max, we're glad you found our video helpful. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know how the conversion goes for you. Happy Wrenching!

[@hokz7283]

​@@TimmyTheToolman hi, i have the toyota LC prado 90 series(same suspension and axles as your 4runner third gen) with a 4x4 manual hub locks. My right cv shaft had the inner tripod bearing failure. I unfortunately bought/imported a set of driveshafts meant for the all time lock. I can't return it either 😢. Since it is an inner cv failure Can i replace only the outer cv with the old joint and fit in?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@hokz7283 If the inner tripod joint failed, you can easily replace that joint using the one from the ADD shafts you bought. We have a video that will help you. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJSmhWeLnKuIitksi=6-i_ogFu8hu5Ud1Q

[@hokz7283]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for replying even on old post. I bought the part no 43430-35030 as it showed compatibility with 43430-60010. I wanted to take the tripod bearing from the new shaft and put it into the old housing but to my surprise the tripod bearing from the new aftermarket shaft is smaller😓. The cone washers on the manual hubs are so stubborn that i wanted to replace only the failed bearing without totally disassembling the shaft. There seems to be a C clip holding the cv axle to the axle hub and without removing the manual hub we can't get to it. Now my only hope is whether the inner cv shaft axle splines will be a fit on the diff. If that is a fit i will knock out the outer cv joint and fit the old outer joint to the new shaft. My model seems to be very rare. Its the 90 series Land cruiser model (1998 made) with a naturally aspirated 3L idi diesel engine with factory fitted manual hub locks.

[@cerwin21]

Did this conversion. Gained 3mpg. But now have somebinding on the front passenger side. Hoping just a bad CV

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Chris, when the wheel is at full droop because the vehicle is jacked up with the wheels off the ground, it's normal for the CV axles to bind and not turn freely. If you put a jack under the lower control arm and lift up the assembly a little bit, you'll notice now the CV axle will turn freely. I think maybe that's what you're experiencing.

[@cerwin21]

@@TimmyTheToolman I know what you mean but this is back on the ground driving. I just took it apart, it was the front calipers seized up and my Uniball needed ptfe lube. Odd cause I was still getting 17.5mpg with both calipers dragging

[@4runner4wd79]

Ok. I think I got the spindle and knuckle mixed up. I meant knuckle. I was watching Andy L’s video and earlier. He did the same sick mod to his 3rd gen. As always I appreciate your detailed content videos. And thanks for the reply.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Mike, the Tacoma knuckles and 4runner knuckles are the same with the exception that it seems the manual hub version Tacomas didn't come with ABS ports on the knuckles. So, if you want to do what I did on my 98 4runner, you have to take the manual spindles and hubs from the Tacoma and swap them over to your 4runner knuckles that have an ABS port. If you watch Part 2, I show how to set up the 4runner knuckles with the manual spindles and hubs to retain ABS function.

[@WomBatVIC]

Thanks guys. Well documented. I did find it a little difficult seeing some of the dark components when there were light backgrounds. Camera will often sverage the exposure for the dark and light areas. You need good natural light to work so maybe a fix is to use some light setup on the camera?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Getting the right lighting is always something we fight with. We try out best and then sometimes time is an issue and we can't spend forever to get the lighting right for each shot. Overall though, I think we do a decent job showing people enough detail to get the job done right.

[@WomBatVIC]

@@TimmyTheToolman No worries, I absolutely understand where you are coming from. The important thing was the job which you documented very well and for which I am very grateful thanks. I suspect you may have taken my comment as a criticism. I'm sorry that's not what I intended, just trying to be constructive. Cheers.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@WomBatVIC I did take it as constructive criticism and that's totally fine. I took no offense. We know full well that sometimes our shots suck and the audio is subpar. Filming things like automotive work is difficult. We're under vehicles, in engine compartments and a crowded garage where we can't easily set up studio lighting. Doing what we do isn't easy. It's a labor of love and we do it because we know we are helping people out. Filming pretty much doubles the time it takes to accomplish a job. Then you have to edit down all that footage to make sure the flow and content is correct so people aren't confused or lost. I'm glad your comment wasn't just constructive criticism and you let us know you appreciate what we shared. Some people just give criticism and that never sits well with me because I know what Sean, myself and anyone else like Jordan put forth to get that particular video up on our channel. It's an immense amount of work. So anyways, no offense taken and thanks for the comment.

[@WomBatVIC]

@@TimmyTheToolmanCheers Tim. Yes, spannering has been a labour of love for me too for over 50 years :) I've had to do things on a budget most of my life and I have never really gotten a satisfactory "workshop" set up. I've had things like a press on the must get list for years but my woman sees that I'm in one of my happy places when I'm working on vehicles. Yesterday I finally got to start refitting trailing arms and torsion links to the old Toyota van outside on the dirt/ gravel. I have to do it as I left my job due to health earlier in the year and now I must move places due to money. It's OK though, because where I'm heading should have a bit more space for me to work through projects - motor swap between 80cc Piaggio scooters then sell, strip KTM990 engine to remove metal filings from a dropped bolt in the clutch basket (used green loctite about 40,000km earlier) /replace clutch basket and get my 4G63 Mitsubishi RVR prep'd for sale. I've already cleaned up my GSX1100 carbs, replaced the tyre and battery myself and got it all road legal to advertise - that's the hard part, selling! :D It's sweet, it feels like 1 horsepower per ~4 pound should and rides nicely! These days it's difficult for me bending down and getting up all the time and it hurts my hands putting force on spanners for example but as you say, it's a love, a passion. The hardest part for me is finding stuff in the garage! Too much stuff accumulated! Lol. People, keep your workshops tidy and organised! :) Oh! And avoid hitting tools with your hands it eventually wrecks nerves in there and gets harder on your hands as you get older. Todays project for me is making some rubber pads for the shock mounts. Gonna layer up some reinforced rubber sheeting with some 406 loctite. That'll be fine as it is only being trailered about 100 miles. My good 1KZTE van is sitting out there full of the house battery, wiring & HD suspension I installed and ready for another trip. Still got to sort the hub rattle and upgrade torsion bars. I'm wondering if Hilux ones will swap but I have not removed and measured yet... Yes, video editing takes some work alright. I brought Adobe Premier about ten years ago to edit some helmet cam footage and found it took a very long time to get a small movie clip out... then the clutch thing happened... So kudos to you Tim, Sean & Jordan with all the effort it takes to put out a clear coherent piece of work like this manual hub swap out. I look forward to seeing some of your other work (in between my jobs! lol)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@WomBatVIC Turn wrenches or as you say "Spanners" as long as you can. That's my goal. It definitely doesn't get easier as you get older. I'm 56 with my fair share of body problems too. Hopefully you'll have a better space to work in soon. Happy Wrenching!

[@cplmike]

Just so you know, a lot of guys pack grease in their hubs to help keep water out. I dunno if it helps but it can't hurt.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

cplmike Your suggestion might be a good idea but it also could be one of those things somebody started doing that wasn't really necessary but has now become standard practice after so many people have touted it's benefits. I was wondering what all that grease was doing in there since the bearing was sealed. It's my opinion if the seals are in good shape on the hub the amount of moisture that could get in there would be minimal and you're just packing in a bunch of grease for no reason. But, like you said, it's not going to hurt anything but you would be wasting grease you could use for another application.

[@TheMultisportGeek]

Maybe one of these days, you can explain the mysteries of how to adjust the derailers on a bicycle... LOL.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Shit, derailleur adjustments are easy.

[@miguelmolinaayala3146]

Very good your video, I have a Tacoma 1996 and I could not get the CV joints I wonder if I remove everything that is the front wheel drive will work without any problem

[@matic1203cc]

TW "Matic" here for my saturday night streaming!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Enjoy the Show!

[@jeep6242]

I had a hell of a time doing this to my 2002 Taco. I had a bearing press kit so I could press the bearings and hub out in situ on the vehicle. While pressing the hub out of the bearing the bearing retaining snap ring failed and the bearing fell apart and the whole hub and bearing came out of the knuckle together. Not the end of the world as the groove was OK and I had a new hub and bearing for the swap. What absolutely sucked is the snap rings I ordered were not correct even though the package was labeled as such so I had to go on a 2 hour drive to score some from a far away dealer. Upon reassembly with rock auto hubs there is no way the spacer with the chamfered edge would go on the hub as there is not enough threads on the hub for the retaining nut. So I just used the nut but the nut bottomed out on the threads w/o preloading the bearing. I could not tell this because I was using the brake to hold the disc and hub still . this was a horrible idea as when I got in on the ground it had all kinds of slop in the bearing that the brakes were masking. So I took it apart and just used the thin washer and tightened the nut with just a ratchet strap fed through the wheel to hold it in place. This seemed to preload the bearing OK. I am worried the nut is still bottoming out. I think something like the thickness of 1.5 to 2 washers might be better but I don't know. There is very little wiggle room on the threads from the hubs I got from rock auto. That bearing tool is such a piece of crap. It takes so much force to hold in place and if it pops out just a little it wipes out the threads on the nut. Good thing I had extras.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, I don't think I would attempt the press work with the knuckle still on the vehicle. But, even with the knuckle off, you can end up with the bearing race still attached to the hub. Jordan had to cut the inner bearing race off with my Dremel tool. When I did it on my rig, I was lucky and the hubs came out clean. That's interesting the snap ring failed. As for the issue with the Rock Auto hubs, this is why I steer away from aftermarket parts like this. I do use aftermarket modification parts on my rigs, like suspension components, poly bushings, bumpers, etc, but for the most part, I try to use OEM to avoid problems like this. I was able to pick up a used set of Tacoma knuckles and CV axles for $400.

[@WomBatVIC]

Sorry I hit the post button by mistake. Grr. Other fix might be to use spot or center exposure setting on the camera. I have two 4x4 Hiace vans I was thinking of swapping the manual hubs out of the older one to the constant 4x4 of my newer van. I was wondering if the shafts are the same. Bugger, they are not and so a big job.. I might have to procrastinate a bit longer! :) Also while I'm here, I've got a rattle down in the hub area when I drive over corrugations. It's a torsion bar set up. I am hoping it is brake pads but I'm worried it could be bearing play. I understand the besrings can be nipped up. Does that sound like s good plan? Thanks for the great vid. I'm going to subscribe. I'm in New Zealand.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You'd know if it was a bad wheel bearing by checking for play. Get the wheel off the ground and grab the wheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions pushing and pulling with opposing force checking for any detectable play. If there's play, the bearing needs to be replaced. If the wheel bearing is free of play, just do a good examination of your front end to see if there's anything loose. It could be a sway bar end link that's loose or anything else in the front end. Or, it might not be in the front end at all and something else is ratting like the exhaust pipe. Thanks for subscribing. Nice to know we have some fans in New Zealand.

[@grayman5271]

Timmy hits another one out of the park with some awesome info! 👏👏👏👍 One question though; where'd Jordon get that 4runner shirt lol?!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You know what, I don't know where Jordan got that shirt. He gave one to Sean and I too. I'll ask him and get back to you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Jordan said he got it from Blipshift. it was a limited run so I don't think you can get it anymore. They come up with a design and only give you a few days to order.

[@grayman5271]

Well that sucks, but thanks for checking.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No problem Barak.

[@mariovelasquez3296]

Thanks for linking me to this video. Things are making a little more sense after watching your video. Question re: ADD vs manual. My ADD transfer case has the push button to turn 4x4 on. Now that you have the manual hubs, do you no longer have to push the button? The manual lock/unlock replaces the use of the button? Oh, are the bearings the same on both the ADD and the manual hubs? Mind sharing the cost of the knuckle and or a link of where I might find one? Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You still have to push the button because that tells the ECU to send power to the the front driveshaft. So no, it doesn't replace the button. What the manual hubs do for you is keep wear and tear down on your CV axles, and maybe even the front differential because with an ADD system, the CV axles are always turning. With the manual hub conversion, you can put your vehicle into 4 wheel drive but the CV axles are not going to apply power to the front wheels until you lock the hubs. I hope that makes sense. I don't know if the bearings are exactly the same. You'd have to just do a parts search for your particular vehicle and make sure you get the right bearings and seals. I think I remember Jordan saying he found the Tacoma knuckles and CV axles on Ebay for around $380. You have to get the CV axles from a manual hub Tacoma too because they are different than the ADD ones.

[@meriadocbrandybuck2868]

That "toothed washer" that goes on before the c-clip at the hub end of the CV- PLEASE, where can I get one of those? My CVs didn't come with em. The dealership tried their best to help me but they don't show the part in their diagrams, other parts stores told me to go to Toyota. Got a part number available for those? Thanks again Tim, hope you are enjoying retirement, you deserve it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I think you need a better Toyota parts department to inquire at. Did you ask them to look up an early 1st Gen Tacoma? Manual hubs were only available on the earlier years, like 1995 to 1998. The dealership probably wasn't looking at the correct years or model and that's why they didn't come up with the parts schematic showing that washer. I would try one more time at the dealership using a 1996 Tacoma as the search vehicle. If that doesn't work, I know ORS (Off Road Solutions) sells a manual hub conversion kit and I saw that washer included in the kit. Maybe they could sell you one. But, again, go back to Toyota first because they have to have a part number for that washer. There is a chance they no longer sell it, but I know for sure they should be able to look it up for you with the correct search parameters. www.offroadsolutions.com/products/ors-manual-hub-conversion-kit/

[@meriadocbrandybuck2868]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Tim, I finally found the part # for the toothed washer - 90560-27005. It was disappointing that the dealer couldn't help me, but this is the first time that particular place has failed me. When I gave them the part number though, they said the could have it in 24hrs and I should have them tomorrow afternoon. They usually treat me pretty good, maybe the guy on the other end of the phone didn't know which diagrams to access, but he did email me screenshots he had of the exploded view diagrams of non-ADD hubs and CVs, and it didn't show the part. I told him to look up non-ADD 96 Tacoma parts, and then we looked up '94 non-ADD trucks. Maybe that guy just didn't know how or want to access the diagrams we needed. Nobody is more helpful than you though, thanks.

[@miguelmolinaayala3146]

Muy bueno tu vídeo, tengo una Tacoma 1996 y no he podido conseguir las juntas homocineticas pregunto si le quito todo lo que es la tracción delantera funcionara sin ningún problema

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Miguel, I put your comment into a Spanish to English translator and it sounds like you're saying you can't find the Tacoma CV axles for this modification. What you said next is a little confusing. Are you talking about the possibility of doing a SAS (Single Axle Swap)?

[@MurrayEstes]

I think this is manual on my 1985 Toy 4runner :) Thanks for the Video Aloha, KB Honolulu, Hawaii

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The manual hubs on your 1st Gen 4runner do have the same Aisin locking hubs.

[@atomicmr2]

Thank you for this! I've been collecting parts for this swap and the video will be an invaluable resource for when I replace the bearings. It looks like Jordan's 4Runner didn't have ABS? I'll be swapping the manual hub parts onto 4Runner spindles to retain my ABS.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, Jordan's 3rd Gen does not have ABS. I'd like to film renewing the bearings and seals on an ABS knuckle at some point too.

[@andyloechler9896]

I'm collecting the parts/tools to do a set of ABS knuckles for a 2000. I will try to shoot a vid doing it. also love the vids they are great. wish I lived down the street and would just stop over, but the drive from MN might be a little too far.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good luck with the job Andy.

[@meriadocbrandybuck2868]

Maybe you mentioned it and I missed it, and if so, I apologize, but- When loosening the four LBJ bolts, do you recommend replacing the bolts during rebuild? I have read in some places those are under such high torque and hard use that you should not reuse the LBJ bolts, but maybe that refers to the bolts on the other side of the LBJ? Any recommendations? Thanks always for what you do.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't remember if we mentioned it in the video either. Yes, it's a good idea to replace those bolts. I think the bolts failing is more of a product of people improperly torquing them. There's two different bolts used for this application with different torque values. We cover this in the video description of our LBJ Replacement video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mJevp6d7o71sp80si=JAowXh2J1vUyDfCW

[@maricruzsalgado2325]

Video is extremely helpful. Only problem is that our CV axle didn’t come with the snap ring/ C clip. Any idea where we could source them? Having a hard time finding it. It’s the only part we are missing. This would be for a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 2.7 L/ extended cab.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Have you tried sourcing it through your local Toyota dealer? I would imagine Toyota still sells it.

[@maricruzsalgado2325]

This issue was discovered this evening after the dealer already closed for the weekend. 😅 We even went back to the auto parts store where the CV axle was purchased and the 2 they had in stock didn’t have the C Clip either.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@maricruzsalgado2325 That's a bummer. Yeah, I wouldn't expect an auto parts store to sell that c-clip.

[@Tylerpowell89]

Hey Timmy! I love your videos and I have learned a lot from watching you guys! I have a 2004 Tacoma with ADD and I would like to swap to manual hubs. My question is will I be able to keep the stock Spindles and just swap out the Hub assembly and CV's? It kind of sounded as though I would have to have a different set of spindles but I would really like to keep the ABS. I also have total chaos UCA installed and don't particularly want to press out the Slug adapters and put them in new spindles.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Tyler, Yes, you can swap over the manual hubs to your original knuckles to retain ABS function. The knuckles are exactly the same with the only difference being there isn't an ABS port on the manual knuckles. In the place of the spacer, you use the ABS tone ring instead. I'm going to do this to my 98 4runner soon.

[@Clappersonly69]

Timmy The Toolman awesome! Good thing i havent junked my old knuckles!

[@matthewgomes8944]

Tim would you please send a complete parts list needed. He did mention the tacoma but what year exactly? I would like to manual hub swap my 97 3rd gen NON ADD! But I'm slightly confused still and don't want to start purchasing unnecessary parts? thanks so much

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The parts list is in the video description. You just have to open it up. Click on "Show More" and the description will expand out. Early 1st Gen Tacomas came with the option for manual hubs, I'm not sure the exact year they stopped. They made1st Gen Tacomas from 95-2004. You just have to find someone selling steering knuckles with manual hubs from a 1st Gen Tacoma and also get the CV axles as well.

[@AnCapDog144]

Where can I get that slide hammer? Also, that sleeve tool kit that you said you got off eBay for $130 for numerous applications. P.S. Thank you for saving newbies like myself. I’ve done a ton of work on my 3rd Gen because of you guys

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Look at the comment we pinned. We provide links the OTC slide hammer puller set, the press sleeve kit and all the rest of the tools we used for this job. In all our videos, we either provide tool links in the video description or a pinned comment. Any time you use one of our videos, be sure to look at the video description and also look for a comment we pinned because both areas will contain helpful information. Good luck!

[@AnCapDog144]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@AnCapDog144 You're welcome.

[@connorc.2723]

Hey is there a part number for those Acorn Nuts from the 1st gen Tacoma? I’m about to under go this conversion and love the idea of a cap for the threads from rust.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know the part number for those acorn nuts.

[@WOODY11780]

NICE JOB !!! .... From Long Island NY.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Woody!

[@dabtech7456]

If my truck already has manual lockers and I get a spindle from a auto locker and convert it to manual locker .I ask because I can't find the spindle I need for manual lockers at all and mine is bent

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You can use any spindle from a 1st Gen Tacoms or 3rd Gen 4runner. If you use one with an ABS port and you don't have ABS, you could just cut off an ABS sensor off a wrecked rig and install it to keep water and other contaminants out of the bearing. In Part 2, I swap over manual hubs from a Tacoma to my 4runner spindles so I could retain ABS function. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4XTgIygZdiIpqM

[@NWPURSUIT]

ok so I have a 96 factory manual hub tacoma. I want to put in a 4 runner front diff because of the 4.30 gears. after watching the video it looks like all I will have to do is bolt in the diff? since I already have factory manual hubs and spindles, the right cv axles etc? what I've read online is you have to un bolt the diff tube from the diff and replace with the manual hub diff tube that the axle goes into... however after watching your video I wouldn't think I would need to... any ideas? or will the diff bolt right up out of the ADD 4runner into my manual hub tacoma and be good? thanks great video!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Since your tacoma doesn't have ADD and you'd be adding an ADD front differential, I'm not sure how this would work out. The differential will bolt up no doubt but the ADD has things your rig probably doesn't have like the vacuum tube connection and the electrical plug connection to operate the ADD system. Without the vacuum tube connection and the ECU connection, I don't think this would work without some custom modifications. So, I would think you would have to exchange the differential tube from your differential onto the 4runner differential and do whatever else is recommended for this to work. The front differential is a pain in the butt to get out. Since doing the job, one person had a really good suggestion to get the differential out easier and that was to disconnect the driver side motor mount and then jack up the engine to give yourself more room to get the differential out. We have the Front Differential Replacement video kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZDKgZx6q81srJY and we also have Transmission and Engine Mount Replacement video kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZCXdZyvrNiGmM0 for you to reference for this job. Good luck with the swap and let me know how it goes. Happy Wrenching!

[@brucehornberger3564]

Thank you for all the great videos. One question. I dont see the part number for the toothed washer and snap ring that goes on the hub end of the CV axle. Thanks in advance...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome. We unfortunately don't know the part numbers for that washer and snap ring. Those parts can't be that expensive. Even though I know dealerships can charge a lot for their parts, they are usually the place to go to when you want something that's nearly impossible to look up on an online parts seller's website. Good luck!

[@catdieselpower193]

OOOO man I would love to have manual hubs on my 2015 TRD OFF ROAD TACOMA lol

[@kflo1219]

Question: I have an 03 taco with antilock brakes…isn’t there something different with those spindles from manual? I have a 97 xcab with no ABS and pretty sure they’re different?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, there is a difference. Your spindles have holes for the ABS sensors, whereas vehicles that didn’t come with ABS, don’t have those holes. Typically, these manual hubs came on vehicles that DO NOT have ABS, and so for a conversion to your 03’ with anti-lock brakes, you have to use your same spindles and retrofit the manual hub components over… we do have another video where we show installing these components on a 4runner that came with ABS like yours. Check it out here -> kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4XTgIygZdiIpqMsi=GdwThkV4LRUYJ7vV

[@Wraytex]

Does anyone have a source or updated part # for the hub studs as of 11/21? TIA

[@Daniel-ip3nw]

Hey buddy, nice video very helpfull. I want to do this to my Toyota Prado 90 series, all the parts are the same but i have a question, how many splines has the CV Drive shaft, in both sides. Thank you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Daniel, I don't know but I think my buddy Jordan has another set of Manual Tacoma CV Axles at his place. I'll get back to you when I find out.

[@ericbrown6802]

Hi Timmy. You talk about supporting the inner race of the new bearing when pressing in the hub. Shouldent the old bearing work for that? Excellent video by the way

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Eric, the old bearing won't work because the bearing can't fit in the back side of the knuckle to support the inner race. Remember the bearing is pressed into the knuckle on the front side and hits a stop. You need to use a press sleeve or maybe the right diameter piece of pipe to support the inner race while you're pressing in the hub.

[@ericbrown6802]

Timmy The Toolman thank you. I just realized that after watching your other video

[@Thisfuckingaie1213]

I have a 1997 4Runner with ABS, can I use the Tacoma hubs and axles / necessary parts with my existing spindle/ knuckle?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes. You can use your existing spindles. - Sean

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, I do that exact thing with my 98 4runner in Part 2 to retain ABS function: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4XTgIygZdiIpqM - Timmy

[@Thisfuckingaie1213]

Just to confirm , I can just buy Aisin locking hubs and cv‘s/ hubs for a Tacoma and transfer them to to the 4Runner spindle/knuckle(with all the seals and bearings) Sorry for all the questions.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@Thisfuckingaie1213 No, you need more than just the locking hubs and the CVs. You need the hubs from a Tacoma that had manual hubs too or you buy them from a supplier that sells them. I don't mind answering your questions, but with this last question, it seems you haven't watched the entire video, because if you had, you would know you need the hub as well. So, do me a favor, watch Part 1 and Part 2 all the way through. If you still have questions, ask away. We are here to help and want you to succeed.

[@Thisfuckingaie1213]

@@TimmyTheToolman can I use Warn Locking hubs instead of aisin?

[@tjmondejar5224]

Question. After I pressed my hub in I can still feel a lot of play. Wondering if I should press it in more. I have a feeling in a bit short

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you press the hub until the press loaded up, you're good.

[@916wetcustoms]

Cool multi gen 4runner front end shirt

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, we agree. Jordan saw them offered on this t-shirt site and grabbed one for himself and ones for Sean and I too.

[@916wetcustoms]

@@TimmyTheToolman hey dumb question thatd really help me out right now. I have an 88 4runner .. and im trying to get in to repack front bearings . Im auto hubs.. down to just the adjustment nut (for preload?) But i think its a 55mm can you confirm?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@916wetcustoms I wish I could help you but I don't have any experience with the 1st Gen 4runners. If you go on T4R.org in the Classic section, you can ask your question there and I'm sure somebody will answer it pretty quick. Good luck!

[@donovandiaz5370]

great video. I wonder if his mpg improved as a result.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Supposedly improved mpg is a possible benefit because now the the CV axles, front differential and front drive shaft aren't turning all the time but I bet the improved mpg is pretty minimal.

[@Warfightertechnologyservices]

Timmy this is amazing. I would like to do this project with my 2005 GX 470. Haven’t found information on that conversion yet. What would you recommend. Thank you again

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You wouldn't be able to do it on your GX470. The reason why it works for 3rd Gen 4runners and 1st Gen Tacomas is some early 1st Gen Tacomas came with manual hubs. 3rd Gen 4runners and 1st Gen Tacomas had the same steering knuckles and hubs so they're interchangeable.

[@wickedreamz8743]

Great vid. Awesome info. Will this work with a tundra brake upgrade too?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Wickedreamz yes it will. The manual hub conversion does not interfere with going to 199mm or 231mm brake calipers, More formally know as the Tundra Brake Upgrade (TBU).

[@jamesmartin7559]

Thank's for the information I learned alot

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome James. Great to hear you learned a lot from our video.

[@waynes.2983]

Sometimes its nice to be able to use low range but leave the hubs unlocked. I.E.-when pulling a heavy load up a steep slope with good traction.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

This makes a lot of sense Wayne and thanks for sharing this. Another reason to have the option to leave the front hubs unlocked.

[@arsweet3396]

Water, grease to help with water when extreme or long under water times. Seal ya is there but won't stop it , water resistant not water proof!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Gotcha, and you're right. Sealed bearings aren't water proof. Do I still think all the grease in there was a bit overkill? Yeah, I pretty much do. But, maybe the previous owner of those spindles did lots and lots of water crossings. Thanks for the comment.

[@arsweet3396]

@@TimmyTheToolman hey Tim how I ran across video , in short I have a bearing problem. Dont laugh yet , 6 left front bearings iv Put in this, within 18mths .water- no, stress -rarely, new hub, torqued to spec , third one very careful on how I pressed, 4th same plus did everything by hand(didn't start torque with impact) I think I'm missing a part.? Sold as 96 , late model 95 knuckles have abs holes but don't have... also , no sense ring for reluctor , here is were I'm wondering are there bigger spacer w/o abs or two spacers without , or wider bearing . It's the automatic locking differential. Also I've tried expensive/too china cheap . Now the part were you can laugh,...... I am also a mechanic been doing for years multi cars not specific makes, and I hate working on my own stuff!

[@arsweet3396]

@@TimmyTheToolman sorry forgot Tacoma SR5 3.4 , TRD SUPERCHARGED 4X4 OF COURSE, extended cab ,automatic. Black tires white driver lol didn't know if there's a change in model or God only knows what I'm missing!

[@justinlong977]

Why use a plate to true it if you’re just gonna hit it on one side 😂. thanks for this video I’m about to take on this project soon.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

In regards to your comment about the use of the plate to drive in the seal, quite often your first strike doesn't drive the seal in perfectly square and one side is sticking out more. Instead of just continuing to hit the plate dead center, you strike off-center on the high side to get it driving in more square. Just so you know Justin, putting in an emoji that you're dying laughing at our technique is not the way to get on my good side. Mutual respect in person and online goes a long way with me. There's always more than one way to get a job done and our technique of driving in the seal worked with no damage to the seal. Anyway, good look with the job

[@komarama]

Tim, awesome vid. Do you have a part number for the spacer that goes under the bearing pre-load nut? The one i ordered and received from Toyota is a tapered one and too thick for my 1999 tacoma with no abs and manual locking hubs. I had an abs sensor ring that i put in there, according to the toyota schematic for the hub, you use the spacer if no abs and the abs ring if you do so it shouldn’t matter as it acts as a shim. The part number that was wrong was 43524-35010. Hope this helps someone else out. Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I did a search and this is what I came up with. In the diagram, it's #13. This spacer replaces #12 (ABS tone ring) in a non-ABS set-up. toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-wheel-bearing-spacer-9056052001 I believe the spacer you got was the bearing spacer for an A.D.D. (Non-Manual Hub) set-up. It goes on the hub shaft after the ABS tone ring. In our Manual Hub Conversion Part 2 video, start watching at play time 32 minutes and 45 seconds, you will see the spacer I believe you got: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4XTgIygZdiIpqM

[@jawaus65]

Where did you get those steel plates and cost?? .. Any links. I have a 50ton press and using some weight lifting dumbells, but not ideal.. Great video. Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey John, 2 of the plates came with the Harbor Freight 20 ton press. Another 2 came from a fab shop near my work and I had them cut me couple from stock they had on hand. The final 2 (gold colored ones) came from a kit I bought on Amazon. Check the comment I pinned for the link to the plates I bought on Amazon and a bunch of other links to tools we used for this job.

[@ChengLee-h3v]

Hey Tim, where can I buy the tooth washer and the c-clip to hold the axle? Do you know the part number for them?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@ChengLee-h3v I don't know the part numbers for those. I'd try your local Toyota dealer parts department and see if they can help you out.

[@ChengLee-h3v]

Thanks if I figure it out I’ll let you know maybe the next guy may need it

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@ChengLee-h3v Yes, if you can report back with the part numbers, I'll add them to the video description. Thanks!

[@ronaldlabadie9910]

What is the gold bolt that helps if the snap ring doesn’t hold the cv axel I’m called?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not sure about the correct name for that bolt. I just know what it does.

[@mississippimississippi4281]

I bought a Tacoma already sas,trailtough bumpers and rock sliders ,9.5 warn winch, arb lockers front and back 538 gears skid plates. Cons I don't know what the axle came from it's a dana 44 drivers side. How would I know which hubs to buy?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I would be in the same boat as you trying to figure this out. So I'm guessing you bought somebody's project that they didn't want to finish and there isn't hubs currently on the rig?

[@mississippimississippi4281]

@@TimmyTheToolman no there there I just don't like superwinch hubs.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mississippimississippi4281 Oh, gotcha. Maybe you could go to a 4wheel drive shop and ask them what options are available. Or, take a picture of your hubs and make a post on a Toyota forum and ask for some input.

[@meriadocbrandybuck2868]

So if I do this job, does it bypass/get rid of ADD system? Would I be able just to shift my j-shifter into 4WD get out and lock the hubs and good to go?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The way we did the mod, the ADD system is still intact. People have gotten rid of the ADD part of it but that means you either install the passenger side differential tube from a 1st Gen Tacoma that had manual hubs or there is a documented mod somebody did a write-up on where you can alter your ADD tube. I think the guy who documented the mod shared it on Tacoma World in the 1st Gen section. With this mod, you're just adding the ability to keep the hubs unlocked. You can now drive in 2wd without having the CV axles turning all the time. You can also use 4Lo on pavement to climb steep grades without having to worry about binding your CV axles or damaging your front differential. On a really steep sustained paved road, and you have an auto trans, your trans temps will climb very quickly. When you're in 4Lo, you can keep your trans temps at a much lower temp. Yes, you will have to drive slow up that grade, no more than 25 mph, but you're avoiding overheating your trans. I've used 4Lo on pavement many times for this very reason. When I'm on an off-road trip, as soon as I get to the trails, I air down and lock my hubs. Now my CV axles will be turning all the time like they normally do with an ADD system. When I need 4wd, I shift the transfer case shifter to either 4Hi or 4Lo. If I forgot to lock my hubs and I shifted into 4wd, I'm really still in 2wd until I get out and lock the hubs.

[@meriadocbrandybuck2868]

Thanks Tim, I should have shut up and watched both videos. As always you pretty much cover all aspects and possibilities for the job.

[@michaelstern934]

Great vid and info, as usual. Any source for replacement studs and cone washers for these hubs? Seems ORS might be the only source? LC or FJ studs don't fit... Also, have you guys welded on spindle gussets? Any concerns about overheating bearings when welding if going slowly/resting and cooling?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Never tried to source the studs or cone washers. ORS is a great company. Just buy from them. Yes, I welded on Total Chaos gussets onto my spindles and no I wasn't concerned of overheating the bearing. Most of the welding happens nowhere close to the bearing but I still welded in steps welding a little on one spindle and then switching to the other spindle slowly getting them fully welded on. Check out the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJDLppSJm9VmjNU

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You can also get the replacement studs and cone washers from marlin crawler when they have them in stock. www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/front-hardware/hardware-front-hilux/8mm-hub-stud-kit - Sean

[@michaelstern934]

@@TimmyTheToolman Yotamasters claims to have them, too, but those are LC/FJ studs. MC is out of stock on the stud/washer combos but has the studs and cone washers individually at much higher cost than the combos I have not validated if these are Taco-specific studs or LC/FJ studs, again

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing this information.

[@GlorifiedPizza]

Why are the Tacoma spindles needed? Can the stock 4Runner spindles not be reused?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You don't necessarily need the Tacoma spindles but you need the manual hub assemblies they come with. You can use the Toyota spindles. Watch Part 2 because that's exactly what I did because I wanted to retain ABS function.

[@cameronp5728]

do you have anything on replacing a the knuckle for a 2x4 4runner? everything i see involves 4x4. I have to replace mine because the PO grinded them down so they could would stop rubbing tires and coils.....

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've heard the 4x4 Manual Hub spindles are very similar to the 2x4 spindles in regards to the press work. Since there isn't a CV axle nut to preload the bearing for the 2wd models, they utilize a lock nut just like the manual hub spindles. The steps to take them off would probably be similar other than the fact you don't have to deal with the CV axles.

[@hunterjohnson4954]

Tim, I’m working on doing this right now using some 2002 4Runner knuckles, but rebuilding the completely with new oem 1G Tacoma guts and retaining ABS along the way as well. I’ve got everything I need except the right press sleeves for the job. I am struggling to find anything less than $200, and some are as expensive as $800 for a set. Any tips on finding cheap press sleeves? I don’t plan on using them often.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I just updated the press sleeve link in the video description. I found an affordable one on Amazon. $80 amzn.to/36O94Q6

[@cisco98lb]

Im wondering if I can use my 1997 4runner spindles and just change the Tacoma manual hubs and bearings. The part # for spindle is the for the 4runner I see the only thing changes is the manual hubs ? Is this correct what I see? Once the bearing and hub is removed the spindle is the same part # ?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You can use your 4runner spindles and swap over the Tacoma parts to it. It's exactly what I did in Part 2 so I could maintain ABS function with my rig.: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4XTgIygZdiIpqM

[@cisco98lb]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you. Cause I have an extra set of spindles I have. I figured I'll convert to manual hub. That will help me not trying to find a set of Tacoma spindle when I have my 4runner ones thanks again

[@maikokun]

Awesome video!! Does anyone know the part number for the CV Shaft and Hub? Or an equivalent vehicle in Japan they would be on?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You can look up the part numbers from an online Toyota parts seller like Camelback Toyota. The 1st Gen Tacoma years were 1995 to 2004. I'd search for an earlier year because I don't know if the manual hub option came on the later years. Maybe just use a 1996 as your search year. Here's a link for the CV Axle from the Camelback website. The part number you want is for the one w/o ADD: parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/1996/Toyota/Tacoma/SR5/?siteid=214329&vehicleid=84919&diagram=F809200 Use this page for the hub part numbers from the Camelback website: parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/1996/Toyota/Tacoma/SR5/?siteid=214329&vehicleid=84919&diagram=8510200

[@maikokun]

Thank you very much for getting back to me, and with such helpful information. I'm in Australia now and we don't have Tacomas here, and from 3rd Gen Surfs are personal imports from Japan. So when sourcing parts I rely on friends in Japan and info from Japan. I have a 1997 3rd Gen Hilux Surf - SSRX 3.0TD and have been wanting to do this mod for a while but couldn't find any good information about doing it. Your video (and other ones of yours) have been so helpful. Thank you for taking the time to make your videos and make them so watchable.

[@juanramirez1378]

Did u change anything else on the 4Runner? Besides changing the auto hubs to manual hubs?? Didn’t change the differential shaft to eliminate the ADD motor? I ask because I have a 2003 Tacoma with ADD and an E-Button Tcase and auto hubs.. I have some manual hubs off of another Tacoma l. Can I just swap out my autos with the manual hubs that I have without any other major changes? TIA!

[@juanramirez1378]

I forgot to mention I also have the cv axles that go with the manual hubs..

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@juanramirez1378 The way Jordan and I did the mod on our rigs, we kept the A.D.D. Actuator so it's like a hybrid system. The activation of the front differential is still electric and vacuum actuated. The only difference is we now have to also lock the hubs to get power to the wheels. When we put it in 4wd, the CV axles will spin but the wheels won't be driven by the CV axles until we lock the hubs. So, while on some trails, we could have the hubs locked and the CV axles will be turning all the time like they usually do with a regular Tacoma or 4runner with an A.D.D. system. When we put it in 4wd, we're now applying power to the front wheels. To finally answer your question, all you need is the manual hub knuckles and the manual hub CV axles for this mod. Some guys have chose to delete the A.D.D. system altogether but it's not necessary.

[@juanramirez1378]

Timmy The Toolman okay cool! Now one more question. The cv axles I have are from a Toyota T100.. will they work?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@juanramirez1378 Don't know if T100 axles will work.

[@weeweed86]

You have a part number for the needle bearings but I don't see them in this video.....Where are they and how hard is it to replace them.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Please take a look at the video description. It has lots of helpful information including the answer to your question of where you can obtain the needle bearing. The needle bearing is in the inner bore of the hub spindle. The outside end of the CV axle spins on it. I don't know how hard they are to replace because I've never tried to remove one. You have to knock out the brass bushing, most likely with some sort of long punch coming in from the opposite side because it has to be knocked outwards. Once the brass bushing is out of the way, the needle bearing should just slide out.

[@davidknox4451]

Did this conversion on my 02 tacoma while swapping it from a prerunner to 4wd. Only thing I didn't do myself was pressing the bearings in. I don't have a press or the adapters and it was cheaper to pay a shop to press them in compared to buying all the tools that i may only use once. Now 3 months later both bearings are shot. You can shake the tire and it has a lot of play and see that the spindle stays still while only the hub moves. Is it likely that the mechanic didn't support the inner race of the bearing while pressing in the hub like you talked about and ruined the new bearing? They were brand new oem tacoma bearings.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

David Knox Hey Dave, yes it's very possible that's what happened. I've heard of this happening with others as well. It's a fairly easy mistake to make especially if you're new to press work. I had only had my press for a short time when we made this video. On a high majority of the videos we make, it's our first time doing the job so we're actually learning while we're teaching. We usually pull things off fairly well but sometimes we make mistakes like we did in this video. But, the important thing is correcting the mistake and making sure you give people the accurate way to do it. Now, with all that said, a SHOP shouldn't have screwed this up because this is their profession. If they take people's money for this kind of work, they should know what they are doing. If I were you, I'd go back to that shop that did the work and get them to redo it for you for free.

[@davidknox4451]

Thanks for the input. I'll be talking with him Thursday, hopefully he's honest. It's sad, I did the entire prerunner to 4x4 swap (including swaping a tranny) by myself with the same method you guys use. A lot of research and then just learn as you go. It was also my first time for a something other than basic auto maintenance. Out all the work that was done, the bearings are the only thing I "outsourced" and it was the first to fail. Love y'alls videos. Especially the 4runner project because it's pretty much the same as my tacoma. Keep the good work and thanks for all the help you provide to people like me.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, it's a bummer when you pay for a service thinking it will be done right but then you find out it wasn't. Hopefully they will stand behind their work because there's no way those bearings could have failed that quick if the press work was done right. What I don't understand is how it took 3 months for you to notice it. I would think that the bearing play would have been there from day one but I guess there was some reason it took a while for the damage to show up. I'm interested to know what the shop tells you. Glad you like our videos and you're getting some good use out of them. You're welcome and Happy Wrenching.

[@davidknox4451]

I belive it was there from day one but it's not my daily driver. It's an overland vehicle that is still a work in progress. It's not driven much. Only about 1500 since the bearing change in January and no heavy offroading on them. So go ahead rule out abuse. The hubs turned good after I got them back and installed them. But I didn't run them over with a fine tooth comb as I had used this shop before for other work and never had an issue. It very well could have had a small amount of play. It did have a slight steering wheel vibration but I assumed it was inner and outer tie rods. They were the original with +200k miles, and the boot was torn on one side. So i got new ones from lowrange offroad. After I changed them, the shake was still there. Then new steering rack bushings, but it was still there. So I replaced the cheap rockauto ball joints I install a year ago with toyota oem. With all new quality parts and the shakes getting worse, I jacked it up Friday and started checking everything thoroughly to find my issue. I notice the hub moves and the spindle doesn't. It was on both sides. Clear sign of a bearing failure. So I started researching how this could have happened and "rediscovered" your video and where you talk about pressing in the hub. I believe he either pressed it in wrong or didn't tourqe the lock ring to the correct ft/lb, so the bearing never got properly preloaded. Or a combination of the two. I'll post an update when I talk to him Thursday. I hope to God he takes care of it. Otherwise it's over $300 down the drain.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Ok David. Let me know how it goes with the shop.

[@o1unitlee54]

How did you guys cut the old bearing that was stuck on the hub I didn’t see it in the video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We cut it with a Dremel with a steel cutting blade. We mention it in the video but I don't think we showed it.

[@o1unitlee54]

Oh ok thanks

[@akmcallister]

Someone pointed out the manual hub CV’s have 1 less spline. Wouldn’t that make them more prone to break? I converted to manual hubs and love the benefits but just wanted a second opinion on the integrity, especially running them “locked” on the highway

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I have heard the manual hub axles aren't as strong as the ADD versions. Is it a big deal? I don't think so. I've wheeled my rig quite a bit and haven't broke one yet. Now, I'm not doing crazy rock crawling all the time but I've done a fair amount of technical sections and I've been good. I think the problems arise when guys start to get a lot of wheel spin and then when the tire hooks up final, that transfers a lot of force to the axle shafts. Or, maybe they have the wheels cranked hard in a technical section and the increased angle and force break the axle. So, unless you're doing lots of technical wheeling, I wouldn't worry about it. It's still good practice to always carry a spare axle when wheeling because shit happens. There's no need to carry a spare axle when your driving on the roads.. I hope this helps.

[@akmcallister]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you, I’m also running 31’s still so not too worried

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@akmcallister Yeah, you're good. Ive been running 33.s without issue.

[@leatherguru8904]

I am curious, you did not show replacing the inner bearing inside the hub. Is there another video. My mech states to replace with new hub.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Those needle bearings rarely go bad unless the vehicle sees a lot of water crossings and mud and it wasn't lubricated properly. We don't have a video for that replacement. ORS (Offroad Solutions),sells the needle bearing and brass bushings if you need them. Maybe they have some advice on how to replace them.

[@leatherguru8904]

@@TimmyTheToolman gotcha was thinking the mechanic was just overly cautious

[@leatherguru8904]

@@TimmyTheToolman Another couple of questions. 1) Are the inner and outer seals the same for manual and auto hub? 2) Is the big outer bearing the same for manual and auto hub?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@leatherguru8904 Yes, the seals are the same since there's no difference in the spindles. The bearing is the same as well.

[@leatherguru8904]

@@TimmyTheToolman Whew, getting that answer from Toy and parts houses was like pulling eye teeth.

[@mikebaze1524]

I have a 1996 Toyota 4runner 4x4 and planning on installing a spartan front locker would you recommend to convert to manual hubs as well

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It comes down to personal preference. I like what the manual hubs do for me. #1, my CV axles aren't spinning all the time which saves them from wear and tear. This is really beneficial for lifted rigs that end up tearing CV boots over and over again. #2, I have the option to use 4Lo on steep paved roads to lower my auto trans temps and not worry about damaging my axles or differential. So, I can't make the decision for you. Look at the benefits and decide if it's the right choice for you.

[@Astrobradbury]

I plan on doing this to my 2001 TR4. I already upgraded to Tundra 231 brakes. Can I assume that I need Tundra brake shields?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you already upgraded to the Tundra 231 calipers, that means you had to trim the brake dust shields on your 4runner knuckles to make the calipers fit. Why would you require Tundra brake shields for a manual hub swap? So Matt, the answer is no, you don't need Tundra brake shields. Maybe you meant to say you already bought the 231 Tundra calipers and rotors but haven't installed them yet and plan on installing them at the same time you're doing the manual hub swap. Sounds like you would benefit from watching our TBU video. Here it is:kzbin.info/www/bejne/hmndqmCgabp1i9E

[@Heffe112]

I still dont understand what CV axle to get. The P/N in the description I am questioning because its cheaper than the other one I looked at that states " w/ ADD". Its a matter of $200 difference. Is an A.D.D cv axle needed? This is part is very confusing on both videos

[@jeep6242]

No. Any ADD CV will have threaded ends on the wheel side. Hub conversion CV's will have splines on both ends. W/O ADD is what you want. I don't know about the specific part number. The price might be with core or without. I paid 200 a piece w/o core I don't have the part number handy.

[@4runner4wd79]

Tim, Is their a specific spindle I need from the 1st gen Tacoma? The T4R 3rd gen spindle looks similar, I’m not sure if I can use the stock 3rd gen spindles. Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You need manual hub spindles from a 1st Gen Tacoma. You cannot use the stock 3rd Gen spindles because they are set up for the A.D.D. (Automatic Differential Disconnect) system and not for manual hubs. The 3rd Gen hubs and manual Tacoma hubs are similar but are very different. They have the same diameter spindle and use the same bearing and are the same size but that's where the similarities end. Please watch this video and then watch Part 2 if you want to retain ABS function for your rig. If you watch the videos and read the video descriptions all your questions will probably be answered. But, if you still have questions, just ask.

[@benallison7646]

@@TimmyTheToolman Hey brother. I know this comment is 5 years old, but I wanted to clear this up. You need a Spindle from an ABS equipped truck, a Hub from the Manual Hub truck. My buddy is running his original 3rd gen 4runner spindles with Manual Hubs pressed into them. You can't use the Spindle from the donor truck, as it doesn't have ABS sensor holes.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@benallison7646 Toyota only made manual locking hubs on vehicles that didn’t have ABS. Since your truck has ABS, you would use the stock spindle that came on your truck and swap over all the components that make up a manual locking spindle. In addition to all the components that make up a manual hub, you also need to use the CV axles that are a part of that setup. You can not use your stock ADD CV Axles. - Sean

[@Mike-jv6il]

Great vid. Think I might do this as well.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Mike, glad you like the video. I think one of the hardest parts for this modification is finding some used Tacoma knuckles with manual hubs.

[@Mike-jv6il]

Timmy The Toolman that's no joke. I can't find a tacoma in salvage yard near me and parts on ebay are pretty slim to. I like the kit you have for the press, I'm gonna have to get one like that a few other things to complete the job. I'm dealing with a front end vibration ever since I lifted my truck. I'm thinking It's gotta be the diff and/or wheel bearing so might as well do this mod and cover all the bases and it's great to have such a well done tutorial for a reference. Thanks again for that.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Alright Mike. Good luck hunting for a set of manual Tacoma knuckles. I could have bought a pair off a friend of mine but wasn't yet sold if this was a modification worth putting money into. Now that I have a lifted 4runner, I'm thinking it would be nice to not have the CVs spinning all the time because they are at a more extreme angle and will probably wear out quicker.

[@anthonynocita7434]

does it allow you to lift the front more without hurting the front CV axles do to the 3rd gen 4Runners CV axles and boot problem

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Indirectly, Yes. What Jordan was getting at is if you have steeper CV angles because of a lift, not having the CV axles turning all the time can save wear and tear on them. The steeper angles are harder on the joints and when the CV boots ribs rub together due to the steeper angle, your boots will tear quicker as well. With the way 3rd Gen 4runners are set up, with the A.D.D. (Automatic Differential Disconnect) system, the CV axles are always spinning even when you're not in 4 wheel drive causing wear and tear. So, he's basically saying the fact you can disconnect the CV axles with the manual hubs and only have them connected when you're 4wheeling, you're making your CV axles last you longer.

[@0341stroker]

I need that black “4ever” shirt! Where can I get one?! Great vid

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Josh Vertiz Our buddy Jordan got those from a t-shirt maker and they were a one time deal.

[@gokartbuyer]

I know!!! I didn't realize what it was until I recognized my grille on it and then I got it!

[@Daniel-ip3nw]

Thank you my friend

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Daniel Costa Hey Daniel, Jordan is visiting his parents in Georgia right now. When he gets back in town, he's going to check the spline count for you.

[@michaeljohnson4158]

What year Toyotas have manual hubs that will fit 3rd gen 4runners? Will i need the whole manual knuckle and CV joint from the donor truck?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The earlier year 1st Gen Tacomas had the manual hub option. I'm not 100% sure, but I think they were available from 1995 to 2000 and then they stopped offering manual hubs on them. Any 1st Gen Tacoma knuckle will fit on a 3rd Gen 4runner. They made 1st Gen Tacomas from 1995 to 2004. They are exactly the same except for the fact some have ABS ports and others don't You will need the whole manual knuckles unless somebody disassembled them. It seems all the manual hub knuckles didn't have ABS capability, but again, I'm not 100% sure. If your rig has ABS and the manual knuckles you get from a Tacoma don't, you would have to do what I did in this video and swap over the parts to your 4runner knuckles if you want to retain ABS function. If your rig didn't come with ABS, you could just swap out your 4runner knuckles for the Tacoma ones if the bearings still seem good. Or, you could still swap them over, but it the Tacoma knuckles don't have ABS ports, then you'd lose ABS function. Yes, you also need the CV axles from a Tacoma that had manual hubs because the CV axles are different than the A.D.D. ones. If you have more questions, just ask.

[@boogs4304]

You wouldn’t have a 2001 4 runner front wheel bearing change video?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

This video and our Manual Hub Conversion Part 2 video will show you pretty much everything you need: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4XTgIygZdiIpqM I'd use this Part 1 to know how to remove and replace the knuckle. I'd use Part 2 to handle all the press work for A.D.D. hubs. If you need more info on how get everything back together in regards to the CV axle for an A.D.D. set-up, you could use our CV Axle Reboot video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJSmhWeLnKuIitk

[@4lownslow]

I have some bad wheel bearings and Iam thinking if it’s worth to do these “Sick Mods“ How much did the parts cost him about ? Also what did he do with the old knuckle assembly ? 3g4r SoCal

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Gary, all the parts information is in the video description. You'll just have to look up the part numbers and add it up. I recommend Camelback Toyota to source the parts other than the wheel bearings because Jordan sourced some for a lower cost via Amazon. I can't remember what he spent on everything. Don't know what he did with his old knuckles. I'm assuming your'e asking about Jordan's knuckles because you'd be interested in buying them. His rig didn't come with ABS and I'm assuming yours has it like most of the 3rd Gens do so I don't know if they'd work for you unless you want to get rid of your ABS function.

[@YotaNation]

So, I got manual hub on eBay, one side fits the CV just fine and the other doesn't let the CV go all the way in.... What the heck. Ordered replacement CVS and hub, still won't fit WTH?!? Im so frustrated... Any tips? Seems like it should just slide right in.....

[@YotaNation]

Especially because one side is perfect....

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Are you talking about the insertion into the differential or the insertion through the hub?

[@YotaNation]

@@TimmyTheToolman through the hub.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@YotaNation Sounds like something is off with that CV shaft or the hub. What you could do is try swapping the CVs. Remove the one that fits fine and try to install it on the other side you're having difficulty with. If the CV shaft fits into the hub fine on the problem side, you know it's an issue with the diameter or splines or CV shaft. If it doesn't fit into the hub, just like the other CV shaft, you know it's a issue with the hub on that side.

[@YotaNation]

@@TimmyTheToolman I have 4 axles that fit fine on one side. The other side none... The guy sent me a replacement hub, and I can't fit any of the 4.. he's telling me I have the wrong axles... But they all fit 1 of the 3 hubs he sent me though. I feel like he got a bad batch of hubs or something. He still doesn't believe me lol.

[@raymondgoodwin951]

Hey Timmy, what's the best way to do this and keep my abs? Could I get the Tacoma hubs and CV joints and just use a different bearing in my factory knuckles on the 3rd gen?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The 1st Gen Tacoma knuckles are the same as the 3rd Gen knuckles so they use the same bearing. The only difference would be the fact that the Tacoma knuckles don't have an ABS port. Watch Part 2 and you'll see how I take the parts off a set of Tacoma knuckles and transfer them to my set of 3rd Gen 4runner knuckles so I could retain ABS function.

[@wallcrawler2020]

Hello Tim and Shawn, first off big fan. I did the manual locking hub conversion and I got my hubs off of eBay but it seems like the hub bodies are to long, I can’t get my gold safety bolt on I got the CV axles from the dealership for a 1998 Tacoma so I’m pretty sure that I have the right ones there. Do you happen to have the part numbers for the locking hubs?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

A link to Aisin Free Wheel Hubs is in the video description along with links to other parts. Thanks for being a fan of our channel.

[@wallcrawler2020]

Timmy The Toolman thank you I totally missed it.👍🏼

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@wallcrawler2020 You're welcome.

[@coppertune9124]

Thanks so much for this vid!!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome.

[@stellanmccarthy9039]

Could this be done to a 2014 fj cruiser with a/t and the add system

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Unless there's some custom aftermarket kit I don't know about, the answer would be no. The reason 3rd Gen 4runners and 1st Gen Tacoma owners can do this mod is early 1st Gen Tacomas came with an option for manual hubs. 1st Gen Tacomas and 3rd Gen 4runners have the exact steering spindles so the hubs are interchangeable,

[@stellanmccarthy9039]

So would i need just aftermarket hubs?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@stellanmccarthy9039 And you'd need CV axles for manual hubs.

[@gabrielbarreda22]

Awesome video!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Gabriel Ruiz thanks for the kind words! Keep wrenching my friend!

[@Bignaz_overland]

Can you make a video for putting a rear manual locker into a 5th gen?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That will probably be a stretch but never say never.

[@Bignaz_overland]

Timmy The Toolman thanks. I got the SR5 and thinking e-locker or manual

[@jeep6242]

Where are people sourcing the parts? I tried two places, one by phone and the other the normal used part wrecker search. They wanted $400 just for the knuckles and hubs. Are prices just skyrocketing for this stuff now? The kits are expensive but I'm leaning towards new and vetted nice used parts served up on a platter. Stuff is so horrible and rusty in the Midwest I am really reluctant to try used stuff from a wrecker. Plus so many of the pictures clearly showed no manual hubs on trucks listed as having 4x4 w/o ADD. So it seems like getting the right parts would really be an issue.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The parts are becoming harder to come by. You just have to keep searching. My buddy Jordan found his set for sale on Ebay. I paid $400 for the knuckles and CV axles and bought them from a guy a couple hours away from me that was parting out a Tacoma. After replacing the bearings and associated parts and rebooting my CV axles, I spent approximately $800 on this mod.

[@jeep6242]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the info

[@maximusbkk9232]

Hi Timmy, thanks for the video. About to take this on, but my brand new front wheel bearings straight from Toyota have just as much play in them as you were showing on the old wheel bearings. Both have the same exact amount of play from the inner race. I've done the rears and those inner races barely moved. Are the front bearings different?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, when I made the video, I thought the play I was seeing in the old bearings occurred from the pressing procedure. What I learned later is the way those bearings are made, they have quite a bit of play brand new, much more than the rear wheel bearings. But, that play is deceiving, because when the bearings is installed and either pre-loaded with the set nut with a manual hub system or pre-loaded by the CV Axle Nut, the play no longer exists. I'm not a mechanical engineer that can dissect and figure out why the bearing is made like that, but I do know the proper preloading of the bearing eliminates the play. So yes, the front wheel bearings are different and the play you're seeing is normal. Good luck with the job. Hope it goes smooth for you.

[@maximusbkk9232]

@@TimmyTheToolman Whew! Thank you for the response. I was wondering how the heck I got unlucky enough to get two bad wheel bearings! LOL. Last night I read a thread thay said the reason the torque value on that CV axle nut is so high is to pre-load that bearing. Thanks for confirming that!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@maximusbkk9232 You're welcome.

[@mariovelasquez3296]

I know you guys did this service to manual hubs but could you tell me what the difference would be on ADD hubs? For example, do both hubs utilize the same lock nut to preload the bearings? If so, where might I find that socket? Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

ADD hubs don't have threads for a nut like the manual hubs. There's an ABS gear if you have ABS and there's a spacer. The way I understand the ADD hubs is the CV axle nut torqued to 174 ft-lbf preloads the bearing in an ADD set-up. So, you don't need a special 4 pin socket but you will need a 35mm socket for the axle nut.

[@mariovelasquez3296]

Makes a bit more sense now. Thank you.

[@weeweed86]

Why take the nut off the bottom ball joint if you can just remove the (4) bolts....? Brian

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Brian, you could do it that way but I don't want any tension on those 4 bolts as they are being removed. As the last of the 4 bolts is coming out, if the lower control arm is pulling any tension on that balljoint, it could mess up the threads of that last bolt hole. Also, when getting the 4 bolts lined up, I figure it's going to be much easier without it already attached to the lower control arm. Since I use pullers and have never had issue breaking free the balljointI from the lower control arm, it's not really some hard chore I'm causing myself. I guess you can say it's just personal preference but those are my reasonings for doing it that way.

[@weeweed86]

Thank You for the reply...It makes perfect since now....