Tractor Radiator Leak Repair

Repairing a radiator leak on my 1955 Ford 860 tractor. See the links below for the parts and tools I used:
4 PSI Radiator Cap (PN: 1T8100A2 ):
amzn.to/34fd7bH (affiliate*)
Thread File:
amzn.to/37fKnP5 (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!

[@Mikeattempts]

4 PSI Radiator Cap (PN: 1T8100A2 ): amzn.to/34fd7bH (affiliate*) Thread File: amzn.to/37fKnP5 (affiliate*) *Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!

[@raymanning1064]

Clear pix and explaining. Superb job Mike!

[@Mikeattempts]

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! :)

[@savoielvis1]

Thank you for video 🎉

[@Mikeattempts]

Thank you for watching! :)

[@kevinschreiner9182]

I also love my thread files. Those radiator mount bolts will come out, with some effort. they're just carridge bolts.

[@Mikeattempts]

I figured that was the case but I didn't want to break anything. :)

[@BeginnersTech314]

i accidently put a pin hole in my grandpa's 9n that i am working on getting running. I like the jb weld idea do you think that will work?

[@Mikeattempts]

Actually, I know it will work. A couple months ago, I found another leak in the bottom section, below the fins. I couldn't get it hot enough to solder so I tried JB Weld and it has held up fine so far.

[@Viva0331]

Mike, off topic Question. I have a vintage 11” Rockwell Drill Press (circa 1970’s) I bought off craigslist a few weeks ago. It worked initially when I bought it but now it won’t turn on. After I ran it the first time I noticed right where the cord exists the motor there is gash in the cord. Probably from breakdown over the years from being bent. So I wrapped it in electrical tape, but now it won’t turn on. I wonder if I pulled something loose or if the cord shorted out? Not sure but any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[@Mikeattempts]

I bet it's just the power cord. If you have a multimeter, you can test the continuity of each wire in the power cord. If the cord is bad, it's easy to replace. Also, if it currently only has a 2-prong power cord, you can upgrade it to a safer 3-prong grounded cord. Check out this video where I upgraded my drill press power cord: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mn2WgZ1rjsuYrLs . The video also covers testing the cord with a multimeter. Let me know how it goes!

[@Viva0331]

@@Mikeattempts Thanks Man! It was the cord but not in the way you think. So this is an 11” Rockwell Delta Table Top Drill. But the power switch is not on the motor or drill. It is at the bottom base of the unit. There is a secondary cord that runs from the motor to the switch at the base. However, this cord is not hardwired. It plugs into the back of the switch. It’s a strange looking plug as well. The main power cord also runs off the motor to be plugged into an outlet. But the Secondary cord has come unplugged from the switch which is why it was not turning on. Strange design. Have your seen anything like this? Thanks!

[@Mikeattempts]

@@Viva0331 Glad you got it fixed! I don't think I've seen one wired like that. Thanks for the update!

[@richardwilliams4327]

This guy must have worked for a-1 radiator

[@Mikeattempts]

I donno if that's a good thing or a bad thing. :)

[@xeyrullamirov7777]

Painting the radiator??? I don't think it is wise bro. You reduce heat transfer capacity

[@Mikeattempts]

Yeah, I thought about that afterwards. It was just a light dusting of paint on the outside edges of the fins. The tractor temp gauge still reads at the same pre-repair range.