LT230 T Centre Diff Overhaul - Setting Bearing Shims.

[@fionanokelly]

very ggod video tutorial on how to shim the diff casing up. The manual states some expensive and complicated tools, but as one can see this is a perfect way to get the pre-load on mark!! Great stuff Chris..thank you very much!!

[@trailerfitter2]

+Fionàn O'Kelly You are very welcome my friend! How are the repairs coming along with your discovery?

[@jameshargan2786]

Thank you; that is really helpful. Is the preload the same whether you are using new bearings, or reusing old good ones?

[@RPCON-no2ej]

hey mate is the center diff shim kit can they be used as the thrush washer in the other clip rebuilding the diff

[@ddnuk]

Great tutorial. Thank you for making this. Really enjoyed watching and learning. May I ask, (forgive me if its a dumb question) why did you add the 0.05mm of preload on the shims if you knew you had exactly 0.20mm of end float on the bearing to resolve? Thanks.

[@arbit3r]

Preload is required. As new bearings wear then loosen up.

[@arbit3r]

Not sure if this is the correct way to setup if you are using new bearings. If using new bearings you need allot more preload. The shaft should take 4.5KG of force to spin using a spring balance. This would be very hard to turn by hand. If using old bearings it should be around 1.5Kg.

[@alecaaa1]

How did you get the bearing under the flange out? In the front housing.. At the beginning of the video..

[@alecaaa1]

Also how did you get the race out?

[@Falcon4117]

what is the torque setting for the case bolts?

[@mob993]

Haven't got a dti guage will the depth measuring part of a vernier caliper do instead?

[@TdrSld]

Holy cow!!! two videos in a 7 hour time frame, I feel lucky lol. :P

[@trailerfitter2]

+TdrSld Ah yes, adds up to 25 minutes. Thought it best to split them.

[@gooddad1975]

i got a 1999 discovery 1 SD when i go to low range the diff lock on dash doesn't come on i woas told that was an option after certain years if so how hard is it to add it please let me know

[@trailerfitter2]

+gooddad1975 yes there is a kit to change the auto diff locking to manual. Have a browse on Ashcroft Transmissions Website for the solution

[@gooddad1975]

+Land Rover Toolbox Videos thank you so much

[@trailerfitter2]

okay no worries.

[@theldaniel170]

@@trailerfitter2 Wait a minute. Does that mean the automatic gearboxes WITHOUT the manually selectable center diff lever, have an automatic locking center diff?

[@RedEyedJack]

found what I'm looking for!!! thanks

[@trailerfitter2]

glad it is of use to you

[@RedEyedJack]

+Land Rover Toolbox Videos you don't happen to have the part number for the shim kit for the diff bearing preload do you?

[@trailerfitter2]

It is on the ashcroft transmission website

[@RedEyedJack]

Thank you!!!!

[@trailerfitter2]

Okay cool, you are all sorted now I hope?

[@kevinclark6335]

Hi, Im looking for a bit of advice, I am getting ready to change my cluch on my defender 300tdi and am thinking of changing the transfer box at the same time with the 1.2 transfer box out of a discovery. Will the discovery 2 transfer box fit in my 300tdi r380. Many thanks. kev

[@trailerfitter2]

+kevin clark yes it will. Just remove the electronic transponder off the box and fit the cable in its place. everything is the same. Make sure you get a manual transmission LT230 though.

[@peterpeterson9903]

1:25 - DO interchange, DON'T mix.

[@tim8505]

Why not both?

[@peterpeterson9903]

@@tim8505 You should almost never fit a gasket with an additional gasket compound. People often slobber gaskets with additional silicones and what not and then the things don't seal properly. It is also usually laziness as they feel it saves them cleaning things properly. Two clean mating faces and a new gasket in-between will last for years if done correctly. If you then add another compound on top of a gasket the issue is that you cannot guarantee the same level across the whole face, result is an undulating gasket (even if just very small differences). As the gasket peaks and troughs and is then clamped down it is not sitting square and the result is an unsupported gasket, because it is sitting on flexible silicone, and it flexes and expands and contracts with heat cycles and eventually it will fail, and fail often quick quickly. This is not the rule, there are indeed some exceptions but on a land rover I've never come across one yet. It's like people who do plumbing, then wrap the olives and threads in PTFE then wonder why they leak or won't seat proerly - then leak. These things are all designed and worked out, just use them as intended and they will work. Speaking of plumbing, worst is when they wrap ONLY the thread in PTFE which is futile as the thread doesn't form any form of water seal on a compression joint!

[@tim8505]

Ah thanks for explaining :) I tried gasket only only sealent and both on my series transfer case sump and all leaked :/ when I used both it was the best to holding about a month haha

[@peterpeterson9903]

@@tim8505 It could be quite a few reasons, things to look for are raised section or nicks in the faces, scores, old gasket, mating faces not clean, I usually will chemically clean the metal with alcohol or even just a good wipe with detergent to ensure the metal is clean with no oil residue as gasket compounds will often leak if applied to oily metal, the gasket will usually be OK if there is oil present however not always, an oil/grease mark can form a channel past the gasket which will always leak. Another thing to check for is warping. Torque down sequence? You want to work a "seal" down evenly from opposite sites and nip them all up progressively until you reach full torque.

[@arbit3r]

@@peterpeterson9903 Dry gasket, greased gasket or RTV? Land rover recommend RTV now and no paper gaskets since 200tdi on LT230. Maybe they has issues.