Troubleshoot Your Quadcopter Vibration Problems | REAL WORLD TROUBLESHOOTING David R.

[@lebasson]

I just realized that watching Joshua troubleshoot things is as soothing as watching Bob Ross paint a happy landscape; you know you'll enjoy the conversation and the result will be pleasing.

[@HyenaZin]

Lol

[@velkrofpv6654]

4years later and still extremely helpful video. Thanks again JB

[@markrankin3094]

I didnt know you could check for bad motors using the motor tab. Amazing vid!!

[@KoryFPV]

This is the single greatest video on vibration troubleshooting I have seen. I went through all the steps to try and figure out my quads oscillations. Wasn't the tune, the props, the motors, or anything. I soft mounted the flight controller, and motors and still it oscillated. It wasn't until I stumbled upon this video that I discovered I had the same exact issue... the damn camera board was lose.... such an easy fix. Copter flies great again thanks to you!

[@matthausadamitz2127]

Exactly the same happened to a fat shark 700TVL camera of mine. Thank you so much! Without you, my 285 would be sitting on the bench for forever. You are one awesome individual! Please do not change. Cheers!

[@DawnHub666]

Detective skills are amazing on this. "What is loose?" What is in there?" "Why does taking the lens off make it not happen?" Was great.

[@MeeKaaH]

THANK GOD FOR THIS VIDEO! I've been troubleshooting my ultra weird gyro issues on punchout for a week now and followed most of the steps you talk about in your different troubleshoot videos. I incriminated wrongly my motors / FC / props... and it turns out it was a beeper i added last minute that was just hanging loose and was touching the gyro ribbon cable... i strapped it down and bingo it's as smooth as butter

[@BrianPletcher1]

I was troubleshooting a similar problem, determined it was an issue with two motors and ordered some replacements. Two days later, KZbin recommended I watch this, so I checked the camera. Indeed, there was a rattling! It turned out to be the lens optic itself inside the lens housing, so I'll pick a new one up and see if that helps. Thanks for this video and glad KZbin recommended it before I finished installing two new motors!

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Yup, I have lost a lens optic that way. Replacement lenses are not too expensive.

[@dale5453]

THANK YOU! This video saved my FPV life. I have the Runcam Swift with the same exact problem. The vibration was horrible. I balanced the props many times, changed antennas, video tx, wires, but never thought the camera chip/board might be lose. Quick fix with a piece of foam, and boom, crisp, clear video. Thanks again!

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Awesome!

[@Mjambier]

Thank you so much Joshua! You're supporting the community so well. Thanks for your effort to provide all that important Infos! Without all these Infos, it would had been impossible for me to get into miniquads. And dang, its just great. btw with the help of this Video, i was able to get rid of my mid throttle vibrations (a Motor shaft was bent slightly, only visible on motortest with accelometer) thank you!!! And as important as that been said: Thanks to Boris B for this great software and gui of Betaflight!

[@twistedgoatfpv6542]

I just wanted to say thank you for everything you do brother! I was having the EXACT same problem and was getting ready to put a match to my quad with some gasoline because I could not figure it out. My friend finally found your video on this and I had the same problem and now it is fixed!!! Thanks again!

[@petwog]

Man this video was a real eye opener.....that motor check thing....how sweet is that after a bad crash when things don't run the same. Great job!

[@doublev5528]

Thanks Josh!!! I have been struggling with figuring out this same exact problem after a crash. Bought new motors, esc, and still had a bad vibration. Took out my Runcam swift and shook it and aha!!...found the culprit. You've helped a lot with your vids, this one saved me, thanks for what you do.

[@ritschratsch6473]

Great step by step Troubleshoot. Explained for beginners and someone who begins to Play with PIDs I‘m waiting for Part II 😋

[@phildawe7172]

this is why ive contributed as a Patreon. i have had this exact issue lately. now i know what to check. also check the motor bolts too, loose ones cause the same vibrated image and are often hard to see unless you grasp the motor and try to wobble it whilst watching the motor screws to see if they move. // . yet another piece of helpful insight on keeping the quad flying

[@travmofosho]

I am sure glad you posted this. Got a brand new RunCam Swift and took it out flying this morning. I had this exact issue happen. Used some hot glue and the issue was gone. I would never of suspected that the board within the case was loose.

[@glen.d6435]

Just found this vid after changing numerous amounts of props and even a new set of motors. Daaaaah Cheers i can smile again

[@ken-kamm]

Great video. Thanks for continuously cranking out very useful, relevant videos. We all appreciate it.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Thanks for watching. I like making the videos and I'm glad they're helpful and entertaining.

[@chetwyatt1553]

Just wasted a week, before I finally shook the cam and heard clickity click and remembered this vid. Foam fix, fly again. Thanks Joshua :)

[@jubifpv665]

By far the best troubleshooting video so far! Please give us more of this content :)

[@BudgetFPVRC]

Nice troubleshooting. I had a similar problem and my footage looked identical to his. Mine actually ended up being the glass lens itself was loose inside the metal lens housing. Finding that just about drove me crazy. It was a bugger to diagnose but when I fixed it, my footage was smooth as can be. Thanks for the video.

[@MadfishFPV]

I've got a brand new build that was having problems with it taking off on arm. Checked prop direction and motor direction numerous times, but it would still spaz out. So thought I'd check for vibrations causing issues, and decided to do the motor vibration test and performed it quicker than you did in this video. Smoked my SpeedyBee F405 V3 Stack 😂. Defo learnt something today 👍

[@toiletduckie44]

this is interesting.i had the exact same issue. I thought the video might show the same issue I was having. my issue was a ground on the hubosd. I was getting so much noise on yaw gyro. unplugging my VTX and cam fixed my gyro noise. I then rewired my grounds and my yaw gyro is now clean. good video. we need more of these.

[@stagger2187]

like a bloodhound, zeroring in on a scent. Two thumbs up!

[@QuadView]

Thank you thank you. Today I was flying one of my quads and have a vibration exactly the same. I'll be doing your checklist soon!!!! This is the best style video!!!

[@rosscrabbe4391]

Cheers Bardwell, your emporium of videos are a godsend for all in the hobby, stay awesome

[@Scrub_Zero]

Thanks for everything you do man. This stuff is so helpful. Nobody else I know of is doing stuff like this man. Thank you.

[@BorisBnow]

one of the most annoying things to have on a fresh build :(.

[@Resseguie]

I keep wanting to like the Swift, but I'm 0/2 so far on reliability. My first one, and this one, have since died with mysterious blacking out mid-flight from vibration. Probably an internal sensor/crystal coming loose. Ugh.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

+David Resseguie people are saying they've started epoxying the crystal.

[@JohnEFly]

I actually spoke to David about this at a software conference recently thinking I solved the issue with hot glue on the crystal. After 18 batteries it happened again though. I too am now done with the Runcam Swift :( I love it when it works, but working reliably seems to be the most important thing.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

+John E Fly newer Swifts have either eliminated the crystal, or epoxied it. I don't remember which, but they supposedly addressed the issue.

[@JohnEFly]

Joshua, I have one of the newer Swifts. The crystal is still there and not epoxied. It does come with the foam pre-installed on the board like you guys did in this video though. It didn't solve the blackout issue for me.

[@rotovicious1156]

now thats some crispy trouble shooting. I am working on trouble shooting a aio camera now. Got a babyhawk in the mail today. tested camera before I set everything in betaflight. once I was ready to fly zero picture. so tomorrow I will pull cam and go from there. great video, I really love the real world trouble shooting videos. cheers.

[@StormadoMan]

I like this format, looking forward to more. very good.

[@lajulasse4332]

Super interesting! Thanks to you, I know have a better understanding of what can cause vibrations and how to investigate. Happy flying!

[@jimilongtube]

Great video format and really useful to see a real world troubleshoot. Great practice for the viewers to try and guess the issue or next course of action. Thanks for posting.

[@ExpressiveImagery]

Wow, that was a great Rotor Riot episode. Oh hang on, this is Joshua's channel :D Great concept you have there - I think you are onto a winner with this approach to interactive troubleshooting the issues of a fellow pilot. Well done.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Hahaha. Not nearly enough crashing for an RR video. And no awesome mustaches.

[@DiscoverRC]

Great video - helpful to see your approach and process of eliminating possible sources.

[@RyanTLX]

Hey I enjoyed watching this video. It shows the diagnostic procedures you take and your thoughts as you do them which I really find helpful. More like this in future if it's possible would be great! Thanks!

[@JoshuaBardwell]

+Ryan Tan this type is one if my favorite as well. Shows the whole though process start to finish.

[@chrissieracki2959]

way to go Joshua. I have had this exact thing happen three times. it usually starts showing after a hard crash. you can also tap the camera lens while it is in the frame and hear a rattle. liquid tape fixes the problem

[@glenby2u]

lol. I spent 3 weeks troubleshooting the same issue. a bit of soft foam in the back made it all go away. cheers and thanks for posting. btw - I had this on a lantian 700tvl camera. apart from that it works great. sometimes it also pays to put a touch of hot glue or contact glue on the lens ring. something that will remove easily but will hold it all in place.

[@andreas.charalambides]

Holy smoke. I tried everything on my new build and didn't think off the camera. Thanks Joshua!

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Glad I could help.

[@Lawzy]

I hit a fence and thereafter had a wobbly image from the camera. Sure enough, the camera sensor had come lose and was moving. Packed it in and problem solved. Thanks Josh.

[@FredoCorleone]

Every troubleshooting vid should be like this. Sub earned

[@rotorixfpv]

the only thing is bad is that I live too far to get your troubleshooting in the real world. Great video, thank you!

[@SKIDOOSH]

I actually had a lens loose inside the lens tube once on a new cam...drove me nuts! I tuned from top to bottom and back again...finally thought I had a bad QAV-r frame so I started to tear it down...as I disassembled I discovered the loose lens :)

[@williamwarner9829]

Hey Joshua Bardwell, I learned something today. Thanks!

[@wogfun]

every one of these videos I watch, I'm always thinking how jealous I am of that property. what a great place to live and hobby!

[@TheRCAddict]

I have a similar situation with my JJRC JJPRO I am testing. No changes, brand new props (HQ, DAL, etc) brand new motors, a 90% tune, even a different battery lol. I fixed the camera better, and nothing. I took the camera apart and like you showed smashed some foam in there but still about the same. I think it may just be a trashy camera as it is a cheap CMOS one since it is RTF.

[@Firefly-nz2xq]

This is a common issue with the Runcam swift I saw many people complaining about it. First thing I did with my swifts is to test if the pcb is loose and secure the crystal with hot glue.

[@KCQuadTronX]

I JUST KEEP LEARNING MORE AND MORE EVERYDAY

[@ChristianWilhelmsen]

More like this! Wow, it was so incredibly useful to see you run through these steps. So glad it wasn't the motors, the video would have been much to short :P

[@acdfpv4518]

Very informative video man! keep the troubleshoot ones coming, i find them really interesting to watch ;)

[@FredoCorleone]

There are times when you notice vibrations within your HD recorded video. So you soft mount FC and motors, PID tune, change arms, change ESCs... ...but after a while you realize your HD camera is just loose on the top plate.

[@ryan0io]

I had the exact same problem on an 1177 camera. Adding foam helped a little but it was still pretty bad. You could push the board around up and down / left to right with the back off. Probably almost 1mm play. The foam just couldn't hold it secure enough. It was shaking so bad I couldn't judge ascent / decent rate well at all. Ended up just gluing the board to the housing using 3-4 drops of thick CA. 100% solved.

[@jurikristjouw]

Love the smoke stopper! thanx Joshua

[@nevilex]

I had exactly the same issue. Tried to tune it out for weeks. It was my 3D Printed camera case. Hot glued the edges of the board on with a couple of drops, default pids and done.

[@tothehilt]

Love your vidoes! Quality. Good take away - always assume that more than one factor can contribute to one problem.

[@alanhennesy2145]

bunch of useful tips in there,...trouble shooting quads is a dark art, broke and trouble shot the shit outta my quad the other night and fixed it, and i still don't know what went wrong.... i did that thing you did on a vid to remove the deadzone on the fc output pwm, it killed the motor... it went fine and i reset all the motors to what motor 2 tested at 1955, didnt want to go thru all the motors cause its scary to run without props, then when i armed motor 2 wouldnt spin,.... i checked in blheli and they all worked and flashed fine, went to motors still motor 2 wouldn't spin up.. i spun motors 1,3,4 all fine, i reflashed everything reset and then, all 4 motors wouldnt spin up.... then i dismantled to check my awful solder work, all still fine.... then i checked the battery 3.5v..... new battery everything worked fine, which still doesnt explain why motor 2 stopped and then motors 1,3,and 4 stopped....i wish cleanflight had an emergency josh from the future button

[@RCFlyer85]

If that's a RunCam Swift I've heard of that issue before. RunCam recommended exactly what you did to put foam in the back... I guess tolerances weren't the tightest in production

[@Daclaem]

same excact issue on a foxeer predator v5 , thanks for the video Joshua.

[@MicroRCFiend]

I only heard about this possible issue last week from a friend that literally change dout every single components and multiple FC. Seems it's more common than I thought as now I read a handful of same cases.

[@capnye6580]

I had this same problem happened to me years ago and it took me forever to figure out that the FPV cam is the problem lol. Great video

[@michaelturner5502]

This video helped me out so much Joshua, i wanna just say thank you for the info and finding the problem. i was just about to buy another camera. I ve been messing with this one problem for weeks, flying around with a wobble screen if i punch out. My Quad was limited too the Real Hoveround!!!

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Awesome glad to hear it helped

[@RcReviewsLt]

Always add small orings inside camera case, especially with Swift 2 runcam!

[@hquiroz113064]

Awesome video Joshua lots of good pointers.

[@thibsan]

OMFG this is the second time you save me (usb broken for the first!)!! I had exactly the same problem and just shake my cam, it seems to be the solution ! Thanks you again

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Excellent!

[@thebrucepv4836]

Great video Joshua! I had the exact same problem with the RunCam, Oscar Liang did a great tutorial mod if you have an earlier version, google runcam hot glue mod. The newest RunCam I received had a dab of glue on the crystal and foam on the back. Had some savage crashes and it's holding up fine. Hope this helps other pilots!

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Nice to hear they may be addressing these fixes at the factory.

[@AdamAdam-zp5hx]

i am currently having vibration issues, with a fat shark 600tvl cmos cam... andi have found the circut board inside to be loose. thank you very much for your vids, my vibration issues have been giving me heaps of trouble. to the point where it is impossible to fly. thank you heaps

[@takeflite6799]

Hi Josh had to laugh had the same issue myself fixed with some foam tape. Then I checked a later runcam guess what they now come fitted with a small square of foam lol Regards Clive

[@knwest2012]

Same here, been driving me crazy. Runcam swift had just a tiny bit of space to move inside. Fixed! Thanks!

[@dan6858]

that is exactly what I did XD

[@godsun358]

Thumbs up for a troubleshooting BADASS! the greatest show on earth.

[@nek111]

As crazy as it sounds I was watching your video while trying to figure out where this new vibration that came out of nowhere was. I got to the point where it had to be the cam. Shook it and tchik tchik, same noise!! No noise when I took the lens off. In my case the lens had taken one too many hits and was rattling!! The coincidence!!!

[@Nick-_-452]

Just want to mention that ive had this happen multiple times too, but gluing the board in and reenforcing the sensor didnt help. the actual elements inside of the lens were jiggling loose. Yes the metal lock ring on the lens was still glued in place and solid.

[@QuadView]

Needed to add more of my notes of the day. Did the camera fix anyway, I see the issue with the camera, only two screws and the other two corners are free to move. Done. Then the motor test. One of my motors noticeably was louder and had way more vibration. I got a number of over 10+ !!!! So, next out to the field to see if the camera fixed helped or that darn motor is the issue. Thank you so much. Question. Is the number on Cleanflight/Betaflight a number that comes from vibration of the FC due to the Motor vibrations?

[@mikelberry]

Excellent video. What program did you use to check the vibration on the motors? How do you balance your propellers?

[@bigpops74]

Wow. I had this exact same problem for months! I just solved it last week by doing the same thing. I put the HD cam on, and compared it to the DVR. I don't normally fly with an HD cam, which is probably why it plagued me for so long. On viewing them side by side it was obvious that the vibes were far more severe on the DVR footage, so I did the same thing, and put some foam behind the board. Hey presto, vibes almost gone. Now I just need to tune it.

[@MrStevegibb]

The problem i think is that runcam have alternative backs for the swift and i don't think they check the fit with them. I suspect mine might be a smidge loose but on such a tight x210 build i cant be assed to disassemble the whole quad to pack the back of the camera. I recommend that everyone put a piece of foam in when changing the backs on runcam swifts for good measure.

[@MrStevegibb]

I bit the bullet and took apart my quad and did your fix (few dabs of shoogoo not foam around pcb edges) and the difference is amazing thanks for this brilliant video I am sure this will help lots of people.

[@LachlanPeknice]

2:28 ... Hey Josh, how come on mine is has "Gyroscope - [Reset]"... How do I change it so it is "accelerometer"? Any ideas? thanks!

[@JoshuaBardwell]

You can't. The BF devs changed it to the gyro and now it's kind of useless.

[@740nate]

remember last week when you helped trouble shoot a bent motor on mine? New motors,same problem.not as bad but still there. Swapped cams,same problem, hot glued board to cam housing,problem gone.these where 2 run cam swift cams.I have the worst luck with odd problems.lol

[@PuttingOnTheFoil]

I had a small 600 TVL camera that lost its focus and I could barely turn the lens to adjust. I didn't see vibration issues, but I eventually found that the board was popping out the back. A little hot glue held it fast and it worked great until a surface mount component got knocked off in a hard crash by the buzzer. Poor placement of the buzzer was clearly the issue there.

[@jlarson42]

Very informative and helpful troubleshooting video. 🤓

[@cJhudanich]

you should deff do more meet and tunes / meet and diag this was a great video josh.

[@deeeeeds]

I've been chasing an issue like this for a month now. Got so frustrated that I've stopped flying that rig. This gave me hope that it might fly again.

[@deeeeeds]

Update: the accelerator readings on the motors tab is currently broken (unless you get the source from GitHub), but I checked all the motors and they seemed fine. I pulled apart the camera though, and sure enough, the sensor was shaking inside the housing. A little foam tape and the thing flies like butter now.

[@urmakinitworse]

That was gold, I would like to see more like that.

[@kawasakizx14jomamamoto57]

If I am showing 3.66 on one of the axis after resetting gyro without the battery plugged in, is it possible that movement on the floor where table is placed is causing this. I am trying to diagnose a punch out oscillations that only happens with a 4 cell, no matter which new props and different pitches dal 5x4x3,Gemfan 5x4.3x3,dal 5x4.6x3 all have high throttle oscillations ,but only on 4 cells. Does happen with 3 cell. Any ideas

[@mikecurtis1111]

I'm new to FPV. So new I don't even have any FPV experience or gear, but want to get into it. I have seen your video regarding adding a capacitor to the power supply to kill noise. What I'm trying to figure out is, what does the noise look like in the first place? Is it the random static in the FPV video feed that is noticeable at different times in the video? I see a lot of FPV video recordings, and it baffles me how these guys fly so fast on tight courses, while that static distorts the video so much. How in the world do people fly tight courses when their video feed is so crappy? Will adding the 1000uF capacitor clean that video feed up?

[@histoplasmosis]

Had the same issue with a fatshark 16:9 camera was driving me nuts. Switched cams and all is good.

[@wickedneurons]

Great vid and wow what a simple fix. I never would've found that.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

To be fair, David really found it.

[@MrStevegibb]

+Joshua Bardwell glue is better tbh I put a few dabs of shoo goo around the edges of my board in my swift and it works a treat. silicon sealant would probably work also and be a bit easier to remove to clean the sensor. I would worry about foaming the vregs especially as some people like run bat voltage into there's.

[@kadyo_diy]

Looking back! He's like an uncle that is helping you on a motorcycle or a car 😂

[@oliverk8539]

thanks great Josh,and can you tell me what's GCS are you using ?

[@DALE0N]

We need more videos like these!

[@DrohneschweizCh]

hey Joshua cool video again!, but I also need your help, when are you comming to switzerland? shall i come to visit you where are you based? cheers and continue make cool videos!

[@blackmennewstyle]

Very nice concept Joshua :) Going to the Bardwell's farm must be like going to a spiritually sacred location especially if it always ends well like that! I think i would have found this issue lol Thanks for sharing and have a great week

[@JoshuaBardwell]

I'm sure you would have found it very quickly. I always like to take the long way around, but I think you learn more that way. Maybe.

[@johnward7748]

+Joshua Bardwell i have a friend who has a Vortex 285, it flys nice and level without vibrations but it spins hard to the right in a level yaw motion (like a frisbee)! we have tried the pid's, different firm ware for the OSD and FC and ESC's with no affect. when i had asked more about it he said he had crashed and ended up replacing a motor (I'm not sure which 1). With a newer motor and older ESC could this cause this out-of-control flat spin to the right (this starts about 3-4ft of the ground, the more throttle given the faster it spins)? Thanks

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Is a prop on upside down?

[@johnward7748]

+Joshua Bardwell no the props are good, we even put newer ones on and they are spinning the correct way

[@jadenbayrooti9493]

anyone watching this in 2019?

[@dreamfpv7865]

Jaden Bayrooti 2020!

[@lucasceleste4743]

The second half of the apocalypse!

[@NeoNeko420]

Days before the end of the 3rd quarter of the year that will never be mentioned again...

[@CrazyKwad]

Jaden Bayrooti, November 2020! 😀

[@BigDFPV]

@@CrazyKwad Me to lol

[@Mobilepaymanden]

again a great video...THX! My gyros readings are jumping up and down between 0,0 and 0,78 when is sitting still with motors off. I have an omnibus f4 v2 do u have any idea what that could be?

[@JoshuaBardwell]

It's normal. The gyro is super sensitive. I wish they had not changed accelerometer to gyro on the Motors tab. The gyro is useless.

[@spoon188]

I had the same issue with a mini Tricopter I just built. It was maddening, because it was all new stuff including the camera, and I was trying to tune it out. It was my first experience with Triflight etc. and I didn't have a baseline, so I assumed that mini-tricopters fly like crap after tuning for days. Solved it now, but what a fiasco. I like runcam stuff for the most part, but they sort of missed the mark with the Swift. The other thing you should have used the hot glue for while you had it out was the crystal on the swift, they use a through hole like the old board style instead of surface mount. "Born for RC;"???? Then spend the extra $0.05 and use surface mount crystal, or at least put some potting on it. Still prefer their cameras over the HS1177 simply because they are just a tad smaller.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

How do you like the mini tri? How does it fly?

[@spoon188]

The verdict isn't in yet on it. They don't use betaflight, so it's a bit of a learning curve for me. The tri-flight software is a ported version of cleanflight, and I can't get the Tail to be super happy. I'm disappointing in triflight because it limits you to a 1K looptime, even though David's FC uses an F3 chip with an SPI gyro. It has a bit of a yaw jerk when I punch the throttle or let off. I was actually thinking about contacting you and asking if you wanted a go at tuning it. It doesn't have blackbox, but I can put a UART sd on it before I send it to you. I'll pay shipping both ways, and you can hang on to it as long as you like.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

If you want to send it to me, I would love to give it a try (tri! hah!). But I have no special insights into tuning a tricopter, and the knid of yaw issues you're talking about are EXACTLY why I don't like tricopters. I wonder what would happen if, in addition to using the tail servo, the tricopter ALSO used motor torque to affect yaw. I wonder if motor torque could provide small, instantaneous corrections faster than the tail servo could swing?

[@cookie13spike]

Thanks for the great vid! I notice you have your HD2 goggles on, are you going to do a review or overview of them?

[@AndyKayJah]

A friend had a comparable issue with his quad... wie tried to fix it for weeks... and guess what... it was a loose lens element within the lens... swapped the lens and everything was fine

[@hendrikjanssen5133]

Is it a tuning issu when i got vibration at very low to low throttle( for example when arming but not when hovering)? I'm sure that the props and the motors are well belanced.

[@JoshuaBardwell]

Not really. I would suggest soft mounting the FC if you haven't.

[@2121bud]

Hey Josh. I have a random question....was just curious why I don't see you calibrate ESC's with the BLHeli motors tab instead of Cleanflight/Betaflite motors tab?

[@JoshuaBardwell]

I don't think there's any difference between the two, is there? Except that BLHeli moves the sliders for you. I manually calibrate the top and bottom end of my ESC curve. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHTSdop4na-sbLM

[@Znatnhos]

Great troubleshooting vid! I wonder if these could be a regular thing. I know I've got some issues I wish I knew more about. For instance, I think I may be overtaxing my ESCs. But I don't really know what that would look like. Would the motors heat up if the ESCs couldn't handle the current? Could that be the cause of the stuttering I'm seeing and hearing? I'd like to know the cause before I shell out for higher current ESCs or more efficient motors... Maybe just less aggressive props would solve my troubles?

[@JoshuaBardwell]

The ESCs would be too hot and would burn out if you were overtaxing them. But few 5" setups can really tax modern 20A ESCs, and 30A ESCs should be nearly bulletproof.

[@Sxrojas]

saw he had a nicaragua t shirt!!! awesome!

[@Dragonewiz]

WHAT IS A SMOKE STOPPER??? TO KEEP FROM BURNING UP YOUR QWAD WHEN CONNECTING BATT??? AND HOW DO I GET ONE THANKS

[@JoshuaBardwell]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKSxXqekbZ6bqKM