Truck update & NRG quick release detach steering wheel hub review

Another update video in the never ending saga of upgrading my 1990 Toyota Pickup truck. It's getting dangerously close to firing up the truck! Also included in this video is a review of my recently installed NRG quick release steering wheel hub (part # SRK-200CF). Here are the links to the quick release hub & adapter I'm using:
NRG Innovations NRG-SRK-200CF Gen 2.0 Steering Wheel Quick Release Kit:
getnrg.com/products/srk-200?_...
www.amazon.com/NRG-Innovation...
NRG SRK-120H Steering Wheel Short Hub Adapater For Toyota:
www.amazon.com/NRG-SRK-120H-S...
Steering wheel is an older vintage E. Nardi wooden steering wheel (14.3 inch diameter) from Italy. I don't know any specifics about model number or anything. I found it on eBay from a guy in Japan who restores and sells them.
UPDATE AS OF 04/28/2023 - Almost 18,000 miles on the NRG hub and it's still working as well as the day I bought it. Absolutely secure engagement on and off with zero compliance or movement. Has worked flawlessly since day one. Could not be more happy.

[@notchbak]

that is gonna be one finely put together ride. thanks for the detailed vids.

[@ddoormatt4834]

Awesome video! Crazy progress and it's gonna be cool by the end.

[@tedbastwock3810]

Everything you've done here is absolutely beautiful, congrats on great job

[@ray5961]

Thanks very much!

[@chrislee6691]

I love your truck Ray you do amazing work. I have a 92 pickup and this is extremely inspiring.

[@ray5961]

Thank you!

[@davidbracken7756]

I love it Bro!!!

[@aaronjerome1200]

So basically you built your own Yota!!! This video is no good for my mental health! It gives me anxiety….Thanks Ray…just keep on going there bud!!

[@ray5961]

haha thanks man.. yeah, I've had her all apart and back together. Love my truck!!! :)

[@aaronjerome1200]

😂😂😂😂But I have Nothing but respect for your craftsmanship. I have a 93 Im working on…So you have given me a lot of inspiration. Much luv Ray 🤙🏾

[@ray5961]

@@aaronjerome1200 Thanks man! I really appreciate that.

[@chefrobertcaldas]

Ray where did you get your loop connectors that connect to your main frame/ground battery wire on 3:40 and your main alternator wires that clamp screw onto the inside of the firewall/engine bay on 2:46

[@ray5961]

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073FCGHZV/ - 2 and 6 gauge.

[@regularguy8592]

Ray at about 5:18 where you show the new master cylinder where did you get the electrical connector that it plugs into on the wiring harness? Do you have name and part number for that connector? I bought same master from LC and haven't figured out yet where to get the other half of connector, called LC but they were no help

[@ray5961]

If you mean the electrical deal that goes to the lid of the brake reservoir, I believe that was the original part from the truck harness. I might have used the old lid on the new cylinder from AISIN. It's a low brake fluid sensor if I recall correctly, but don't quote me on that. You might be able to dig something up used on ebay.

[@regularguy8592]

on mine the old on had plug recessed into the resivor housing and connector on the new master cylinder is different type. As I have never seen its mate it makes it harder for me to find but its not to big of a deal I have a plan b lol@@ray5961

[@jonesingaround3260]

Can I ask what your original adapter was? I'm looking for something more low profile

[@ray5961]

it was just a generic one from ebay, I don't remember the name but they sell them all over

[@user-wk8gg2uj8b]

Can you please rebuild my 89 Toyota pickup 4x4. Your work is perfection

[@ray5961]

Thanks man! I really appreciate that.

[@downhomefishingadventures]

hey got a question were buy all the wiring and connectors to rewire your 90's Toyota pickup

[@ray5961]

It depends which wires you are talking about. Mostly it's the original harness, but cleaned up and repackaged. For the broken connectors, I just had to hunt them down individually on ebay. A lot of times you have to surgically dissect the old connector and then put the wires into a new housing and stuff along those lines. Sometimes you can buy used connectors and splice things together. For larger wires for the alternator and battery and stuff, most of those come from amazon - search for marine grade wire which is tinned. I also buy Molex connectors off McMaster and use those to build my own harnesses. The sleeving is either rubberized high temp fiberglass from McMaster or sometimes this product on amazon called Alex flex I think. Google "high temp electrical sleeving" and there are different companies out there which make it. Most of the heat shrink tubing comes from amazon (china stuff). It's just many hours of surgery basically. Everything is soldered and hand built.

[@downhomefishingadventures]

@@ray5961 oh ok cool thank you for the info

[@fernandopasini6350]

Could you send me the link to the part to adapt the steering wheel? Here in Brazil I'm not finding

[@ray5961]

The one I have is this part # SRK-200CF - go to their website getnrg.com and search that # and you will get to the link. I have the carbon fiber one.

[@ericrodriguez8556]

Hey Ray, i’m currently trying to re-wire my battery positive terminal and negative terminal cables and I was wondering where did you get the heat resistant sheathing and maybe if you have a recommendation to where to buy battery/automotive wires and terminals thank you.

[@ray5961]

Most of the sleeving is by a company on Amazon called Alex tech - they have split and expanding sleeving. The heat resistant stuff came from McMaster; just search for high temp sleeving and it's the rubber coated fiberglass stuff. The battery terminals and cables are all marine grade stuff by Ancor - here are the terminals I used www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O7S8UD0 & www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O7S8V4S/ - buy solder slugs and then you hold the terminal in a vise, heat it with a torch until the slug melts and then put the end of the cable in and hold it (I also preheat the cable end before putting it in the solder). Most of the ends that allow bolts to go through are SELTERM marine grade wire lugs. For all my other spade and ring connectors I generally stick to Molex stuff, because it's much higher quality - check McMaster and they sell most everything you need. Blue Sea stuff is also very good; I have several of their circuit breakers in the truck. Their catalog online is also real helpful to check out. Stick to tin coated copper marine grade stuff and you should be in good shape :-) Let me know if you have any other questions. Most of the battery cables are Ancor 4 or 6 gauge as I recall, but you just have to look up the cable sizes and lug sizes and see what works and what sizes are best. Also, I'm running a 140 amp alternator, so I had to run custom leads for that, as well as upgrading the main charging fuse to 140 amp, even though the system never really draws that much at once. I also am running dedicated circuit breakers for the alternator, radiator electric fan and the driving lights, just to protect those systems on top of having fuses. So I have done pretty extensive re-wiring on the truck.

[@ericrodriguez8556]

@@ray5961 Amazing work! Got the truck inside the garage and I started removing the hood and cowl to clean. Then I was removing the windshield trim and ended up cracking the windshield :( I sure am learning a lot with this truck lol. Thank you Ray for the help! I should make a donation for all the help you gave me.

[@ray5961]

@@ericrodriguez8556 haha thanks! This windshield repair kit works amazing. I fixed a nasty crack in my windshield using it and it absolutely vanished. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ALJ4MY/

[@lauliiiosefa7601]

I like your quick release set up I plan on doing mines soon what kind of steering wheel is that you are using ?

[@ray5961]

Thanks! It's a vintage Nardi steering wheel that I bought from Japan

[@Group2Matrix]

Is there a link or part number for the quick release hub? Is your steering column stock?

[@ray5961]

It's an NRG hub - their carbon fiber one. Check their website and it shouldn't be too hard to find. Everything else is stock.

[@Deb12303]

Question on the quick release hub, how did you get the blinkers to work. My hub won't fit if I leave that plastic part on n it turns off my blinkers. £/help/£

[@ray5961]

Mine went on no problem. I don't recall there being any issue with the blinker stuff. NRG makes a lot of hubs... which one are you using?

[@Deb12303]

It's actually the adapter that doesn't fit, it doesn't allow blinkers to move up n down. It's a kyoster

[@ray5961]

@@Deb12303 I had a similar issue with the first ebay adapter I tried. I gave up and just sprung for the NRG stuff. The NRG is super high quality and works 100% - all I had to do was modify the horn wire spade connectors to gain a little additional clearance so my horn button would sit flush.

[@ViceChief]

Hey Ray! Great video. I'm looking to do the same thing for my '94 toyota pickup. What were the part numbers of the adapter and QR stack? Was it the SRK-120H & SRK-200CF ? Anything else?

[@ray5961]

I just added the info to the description also, but yes you got it, it's the SRK-200CF. The wiring in the horn button area was kinda tight; I had to cut some of the wires out and solder new stuff in as I remember, otherwise it would cause the horn button to push up a bit from being seated. Hope that helps!

[@ViceChief]

@@ray5961 Definitely helps. Thank you for taking the time to respond - I appreciate the additional info! I think I'm going to try the "short" quick release to see if I can maintain factory distance to the turn signal.

[@ray5961]

@@ViceChief Sure, no sweat. With my setup, the steering wheel is about 1" further towards me. If they have some other short option, it might be worth a try.

[@mudmasterzts]

What is your whole steering setup? The hub adapter, quick release and wheel. Looking to get the exact setup

[@ray5961]

Hi Tyler - I added all the links to the description of the video. The steering wheel is a vintage Nardi wheel from Italy, but I don't know any specifics about it. I bought it off a guy in Japan who was selling them via eBay for a while.

[@angelbermudez6385]

I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma single cab and my steering wheels sit super high like a semi truck 😂 is there a way to lowered it?

[@ray5961]

Not sure about that one. Sometimes you can add spacers where it mounts to the dash.

[@vegaf2011]

Was the whole horn situation just plug and play?

[@ray5961]

More or less yes, but I did have to cut off their spade connectors and solder on my own as I remember. The issue was that I needed a little less wire down in there and a little extra room under where the horn button snapped in. With the original setup, the bunched up wires were just a little too long and caused the horn button to pop up a little on one edge and not seat down flush and stay snapped in. After re-working the wires and using a smaller connector on the end, then everything was just plug and play as far as the horn button operation.

[@ericrodriguez8556]

Hey did you buy new metal brake lines?

[@ray5961]

Hey Eric - no, I was going to but I ended up just bending the existing ones a little to make them work with the brake upgrade and modifications I did

[@sleeks9939]

How can I get a bracket adapter for the wilwood? Looks amazing

[@ray5961]

Are you referring to the front brackets or the rear ones? I made both of those brackets myself, but let me know which you are interested in. They require machining to fit, which isn't all that easy, but it's a great brake setup in the end.

[@sleeks9939]

@@ray5961 that is awesome it looks great with a lot of stoping power. front and rear.

[@ray5961]

@@sleeks9939 I think I have a spare set of rear adapter brackets if you're interested. You just need to tap the top holes. Then buy the wilwood adapters, etc. If you're interested contact me and I can double check what I've got here. The front ones are a lot harder to make. Mine came out a bit off and I had to shim then a bit. I had them laser cut but really I think waterjet might work better

[@ray5961]

@@sleeks9939 contact me via ray4545 on ebay

[@harlockwaruszewski5950]

Hey man doing a similar build and got some wilwoods myself. You got lug mount or radial for the front? Looks lug.

[@ray5961]

On the fronts, I'm running the Wilwood Forged Narrow Superlite 4 radial mount calipers front and rear (specifically part # 120-11784-BK in front and 120-11783-BK in the rear). I had to make my own mounting adapter from 7075 in the front and then in the rear I designed one also, which is an adapter plate that bolts to the axle back there and accepts one of the brackets from Wilwood that the caliper bolts down onto, then it bolts across to the adapter plate (which is laser cut from stainless as I remember). Wilwood makes really good stuff. Which caliper are you running, etc?

[@harlockwaruszewski5950]

@@ray5961 I’m running the 120-12002s in the front. I forget the rears. Have to look. But I got a IRS set up in the rear I’m doing so I got a inboard brake set up with the wilwood. Looking to do my own bracket for the front, but I was wanting to ask if I could get some info of yours so maybe I can do the same. It’s gonna be a bit harder as I’m doing a 4x4 and they don’t really make the parts for those either.

[@ray5961]

@@harlockwaruszewski5950 Sounds cool. What IRS differential are you using? Jaguar or? I may still have all the CAD files for the brackets, but they require using wilwood hubs/rotors in order to get the correct offset, etc (at least on the IFS setup). I can send you some drawings if you'd like. Let me know an email or link

[@harlockwaruszewski5950]

@@ray5961 True but at least having a rough draft of someone that’s already done it. This way I don’t have to re invent the wheel. Lol. You have a Facebook so we can chat further?

[@ray5961]

@@harlockwaruszewski5950 I don't have Facebook any longer.