Tuning The Dual Carbs/ At My Wits End With Endless Problems!

[@rudetoy8264]

Tuning carburetor and even syncing dual carbs are lost art, and it amazing to see young guy doing it.

[@austinniemela]

Absolutely! It sure is a fun job!

[@falkie52degrees68]

What I like about your videos is that you are not afraid to show us your frustrations which we all share at times. Sometimes I just leave it when nothing goes right and come back another day with a fresh smile on the face. Love the vids mate !

[@austinniemela]

Exactly! That’s the best way to attack!!

[@d9daprogrammer]

I appreciate the fact that you show your problems, it is healthy for the community and it shows that no matter your level of expertise, something happens and issues will happen. This is why I support your channel.

[@austinniemela]

Thanks I appreciate that!

[@hey9784]

Thanks for the unboxing video. I did not expect that compact power station to pump out around 1024Wh of capacity.

[@zooooooooooooooooooooooooo9533]

Nice to see that the Delta 2 only needs a cable to charge not like other power stations that have huge brick chargers.

[@tintat2]

I think that little wiper contact should be normally closed to provide ground. If the wipers should jam due to ice or snow etc. that little bimetal spring would then heat up and open the circuit to protect the motor from overload.

[@vettepicking]

Normally its on the + on newer motors. I rebuild these small motors on cars .

[@austinniemela]

Interesting! I actually closed that switch later and it still didn’t work!

[@Nilezy]

@@austinniemela Make sure the contact plate is not in the park position else the motor won't turn even when you close that contact. Might need to rotate the contact plate under the large metal cover plate. Looks like the bimetallic switch has been overheated and might need bending back so the contacts are touching again

[@stevedulaney3744]

Did you sell the red truck? I saw a video where you mentioned that you may sell it.

[@ryanroman1761]

Nice! Currently wrapping up a full rebuild on my 87 2wd. Love these old trucks

[@tonystoyotatrucks4745]

nothing ever goes right when we are trying to restore old trucks!!! Except that the fact that something will always come up that will test you.

[@gaboonviper85]

Air usually blows out the brake booster when the hose is removed and you press the pedal..... its supposed to be under vacuum which now you'll have slight issues with because you went itb....usually these vehicles pull about 17-20 inch mercury and now you'll be lucky to get 10..... but the booster isn't what makes a firm pedal its the brakes that cause that which means you probably still have air in the system.... the booster simply increases force so you don't have to push the pedal so hard to get the vehicle to stop.

[@craigjohnson7409]

Austin ignore the brake booster won’t affect bleeding bakes to hard pedal stage it has an air lock in the fluid side need to sort that before worrying about the booster also pay to check push rod to piston clearance of the new master cyl

[@eerokutale277]

Decades ago I had issues with rough/uneven idle with dual Dellorto side draft carburetors although the carburetors were synchronized etc. Problem was that rally camshaft made intake flow pulses which disrupted proper function on idle. I solved the problem by making a balancing tube between all intake manifold runners, after that modification the little beast idled really smooth @ 1050 rpm.

[@austinniemela]

Thanks! I do notice some pulsing! What did you build the balancing tube out of?

[@eerokutale277]

@@austinniemela If I remember correctly it was 12 or 10 mm steel tube, short rubber hoses, threaded hose connectors and of course I had to bore holes and tap suitable threads to the intake manifold runners.

[@kennybaughman5032]

The vacuum line to the brake booster should have a one way valve in line

[@achilleaustin]

It’s n/a it doesn’t need one

[@Tenkaichibudokai22]

@@achilleaustin oh yeah it does need one and it makes a huge difference.

[@austinniemela]

@@Tenkaichibudokai22 I have a check valve!!

[@daviddezeeuw9031]

I dont know what it is about old toyotas but just like my old Toyota corolla KE35, i love the sound of the rattles when its on idle.. When other old cars rattles, it just drives me mad but when old Toyotas rattles it just hits differently and its almost soothing 😅😅 or maybe its just me..

[@marcelpopa5077]

On wiper motor you have under the 3 bolt lid another contacts for stop the motor in park position. That litle contact it s for protection it s a normal closed contact.

[@peterp4319]

ah man, tuning a carburetor ... that brings back memories

[@2THGap]

I know these issues are testing your patience. But knowing from many of your projects you'll find the solution. Great job. edit: the dual carb reminds me of my old Corolla with a 2TG in it. That's a long time ago.

[@austinniemela]

Thank you! I’ll be ok haha

[@Danielizer99]

Awesome to see you work through all of these issues. Your patience is insane. Keep it up!

[@gman2974]

Long videos are good, man! We can always pause or take a break and come back.

[@brennanradford4132]

Been following along with the build and been really enjoying this series of videos! Keep up the great work! My 22re that I daily drive is creeping up on 300k miles on the original motor and you’ve been inspiring me to finally do a rebuild.

[@nicolasstokes9297]

Looking at the charge cycles. 3000 is actually a lot and it could last me about 10 years of use.

[@diegoalonso225]

Take some holidays, this tzumani of problems will end soon. Great content. Greetings from Argentina

[@len4256]

You, brother are the epitome of calm and cool to me. I know I’m not there when you edit but you sure make it look Easy. Hang in there bro and see you on the next one!!!

[@austinniemela]

Thanks! There’s always light ahead 👍👍

[@joecruiser]

Yes Austin. Just keep going, you will definitely succeed in the end. Good luck!

[@Just_me1776]

I understand. I have this same truck and the external voltage regulator absolutely kicked my ass! Sooo frustrating…. I actually ended up using a GM single wire unit in the end.

[@jeffrose3941]

I can feel your frustration! I have been there but you will preserve and soon enough you will be driving around in that truck and those problems will be in your rearview! Great job!

[@SiBiksss]

That's a bummer man. I've had my share of "cant catch a break" on each of my 90s trucks 🥴 build looking dope man. Hope things have turned to the better recently. 💯🙌🏽

[@abpsd73]

Pull the master off the booster and see if the pushrod is there or if it's missing, and see if it moves when the pedal is pressed. The booster still will have manual brakes without vacuum, a bad booster will leak air/vacuum and lack assist but still will have pedal pressure from the MC.

[@austinniemela]

There could be a ton of air in the master, I’ve never had a booster do this! I checked my Tacoma, and a spare booster and they didn’t do it with the hose disconnected

[@abpsd73]

@@austinniemela May need to bench bleed the master. I've vacuum bled systems and still had a wonky pedal due to air still in the master.

[@andrewcain7432]

I used dual carbs on a air cooled vw it takes quite a bit of tinkering to get it to run correctly

[@motochris5459]

Faulty booster wont affect brake pedal firmness when car is off. You must have air in the lines still or a faulty master cylinder. Try manually bleeding the brakes. Have fluid at each wheel?

[@austinniemela]

Yup fluid at each wheel! I tested 2 other boosters I have and neither have air coming from that port!

[@motochris5459]

@@austinniemela A simple vacuum test will determine if the rubber diaphram in the booster is good. Also, always bench bleed a new master cylinder.

[@320is1]

The plunger of the master cylinder has the wrong length, I guess.

[@bobbyjones2363]

Bend it to touch. When it gets to hot it opens.

[@gaboonviper85]

Also double check that the check valve in the brake booster hose is mounted in the proper direction......

[@paulevans2153]

Rebuilding my 78 back when I was 16. My exhaust manifold was glowing red hot. Yeaaah a bit too lean. Was my first engine build back in 97. I got it all sorted out.

[@brianfogle2743]

Watching your videos to get some motivation to take the head off my 79 limited edition pickup. Head gasket, warped head, or burnt valves. No compression in inner cylinders. It ran with the choke on for almost an hour.

[@808touge]

You just wanted bronze headers 😂

[@bulletproofadventure]

Now that's a nice truck. I'm sure you'll get everything working right. I mean you've come this far and they're only little niggles anyway. Sounds good now.

[@deancastillo7]

I think for the booster you need a check valve on that vacuum line

[@austinniemela]

I got one!

[@chefsadventures7849]

i liked the discolored header color, matches well with the valve cover

[@austinniemela]

Same here! Let’s hope it doesn’t rust!!

[@adam-n-stuff]

I don't have experience with Toyota electrical issues, but wishing you luck on figuring it all out. Looking forward to the next one.

[@professorofficer9609]

The secret to fix the issues with your truck... - take breaks. - Do something else. - Sleep. - Try another day. Or even a week - Think with a clean head. - Do not rush it (buying stuff without even knowing what 's faulty) - Patience, patience, patience. Do not ruin your project. Do not burn out yourself. Too much time, money has been invested on this built. Take it easy.

[@jperez678]

This man is making me want to ditch my future EFI system and use some good ole carbs on my 3tc 😭

[@ray5961]

Still watching your video, but just real quick on the AEM gauge: when you have it configured in the P0 setting, it expects a Wideband O2 sensor which outputs a 0-5V range, while in other modes is uses either 1-2V or 0-1V ranges. If AEM didn't already have you do this, you might try flipping the gauge over to P1 (Lambda) and then back to P0 and see if it will re-calibrate. Also, make sure the O2 sensor is clean and getting power to the heater part, since it requires that to function properly. On mine, I had the connector slip out a bit and it stopped working on me.

[@austinniemela]

I have another one on the way! The heater didn’t work, and went lean with a gas soaked rag wrapped around the sensor!

[@ray5961]

@@austinniemela Sounds like you're having a ball over there :-) You are giving me flash backs to restoring my truck. Yeah, the heater has to work, or I don't think the O2 sensor materials will function at all. I run a lithium battery in my Toyota Pickup and once I left the key to "on" and just the heater in the O2 sensor drained the battery quick - so be careful of that... those heater circuits in the O2 sensors draw like 1 amp or something as I recall. Enjoying your rebuild there. Never a dull moment with dual sidedrafts :)

[@dariocorral]

nice you helped me a lot with that fix on the fuel level sensor

[@Usnz411]

U need to change the light signal to "1157" led dc 12v i have same problem in my gmc c10 win i start the car the led will not work good but after i buy and install the 1157 led it work great

[@125sm3]

Nothing worst when you end up with issue after issue, Currently restoring a motorcycle and experiencing all the issues . Fixing one thing after another.

[@rclifegu3574]

Run cones on the carb 🎉

[@robertholcomb6200]

Just like old skool air cooled VW's.... great when they run, but test you until you get there!

[@chesterossa]

Hang in there Austin. The build looks great so far!

[@bobthebuilder6315]

Check your body ground & engine to body ground . BTY wellcome to auto restorations. When you piss with something that old its all the little things especially wireing and old rubber parts are the biggest pains in the ass. Just keep up the good work,I know you will get it.

[@diloringmendez8896]

You can do it, you are amazing ! Great job

[@waynesmith3057]

Love that truck is so sweet

[@randy6350]

I feel for you Austin but don’t feel alone you and I have the SAME LUCK‼ 🥺

[@rcsanks]

I think I might have a new brake booster for a project i was going to use that has a two bolt master mount if that’s what your looking for

[@TheNiekerk]

I had a similar issue with my AFR gauge. Turned out to be the wideband sensor. Luckily I had a spare sensor to test it with. The indicators are the same as on the Land Cruisers of that era. If a bulb blows, you get what happened with you. Get the same with LEDs, nit enough load. Load resistor should fix it. Regarding the wiper motor, that contact is the same principle as on the blowermotor on the newer models, used on the blower resistor but they are usually positive. On the resistor they are soldered. Here we do not really have issues with our wiper motors, because they rarely used. Have a look inside the wipermotor gearbox. Sometimes those "fingers" are the reason.

[@stevekeenan9673]

My family had several of those 20rs n 22rs...I stuck with the 22re, but remember my brother rebuilding his carb many times bstruggling to find parts, and the weber wasn't legal in CA. Always wanted to try the lcengineering supercharger with carb kit to see if it would knock all that down as complete system...

[@joshuaa1921]

Been looking at the superchargers too for my 22re but goddamn idek if I worth it for the little power boost it’ll get cause at the end of the day it’s a 22re

[@heinlianohusselmann8364]

If you don't have every single blinker light functioning it will remain constant.... You have to fix the mini light also on the fender

[@markbithrey3635]

My 71 Toyota crown does the same thing with the blinkers they will only blink when it’s running I wonder if it was the same in the hilux

[@Z-Bart]

That is the most gremlins I have witnessed you ever having to deal with. Stay patient. You'll get it all worked out.

[@luiscruz-no3ib]

You can have that booster rebuild there is plenty of places do that

[@ronthompson2366]

Getting close... best thing to do is exactly what you did. We will all just have to wait... but we'll make it. Looking great so far. 👌

[@date6431]

I may have a wiper motor, lmk if ya want me to check. I’d love to know where ya been finding a lot of your parts, wheel bearings and such. I’m tryin to get a 78 back on the road for my wife

[@austinniemela]

I bought a motor on eBay! I’ll see if that one works! Rockauto has all the bearing and seals!!

[@kayejaye261]

Ur slipping Austin. I can't even say Toyota right now. 🙄 Great vid. Can't wait to go for cruise. Truck looks great. Sounds great. U da man. Regroup and make it right. Thx.

[@1970ronin]

Did the wideband gauge help more than air sync tool? Trying to dial my 40s in on my 20r

[@MonkeyWithAWrench]

Hey, so the screws you were playing with thinking they were mixture were actually air balance screws. Those are used to fine tune the airflow between each cylinder. Tuning dual carbs is a royal pain in the ass. you need a syncrometer to get the airflow balanced. Once the air is balanced, then you tune the mixture screw, the next one over towards the aircleaner is the mixture screw. Once that is tuned, then you need to do wide open throttle to get the mains tuned, then partial throttle is all about the air bleed tubes. that will set the lean cruise/partial throttle. Edit: I commented too soon! You got this!

[@austinniemela]

Those are the mixture screws, these Weber’s don’t have the air balance adjustments. Yup I did sync the carbs and seems better! It’s running good except for a bog right off idle! Without my wideband I can’t tell if it’s rich or lean

[@MonkeyWithAWrench]

@@austinniemela ​ You're right, i looked up the diagram on the DCOEs, those are indeed the mixture screws. Thats right where Weber put the balance screws on the IDE and IDF carbs so it threw me. After rewatching on a bigger screen I can also see the undrilled bosses for the air balance screws. Thats wild! First set of Webers I've seen without them! As for your bog, the wideband likely wont react fast enough to really check. I've tried that before without success. If you get a pop out of the intake on occasion, its likely too lean. If its too rich then bumping the timing a few degrees usually helps the bog, so that gives you an idea which way to take the mixture. make sure you have a zero bypass valves on the accelerator pump circuits. when you shake those valves they should rattle! if it does have zero bypass valves and they rattle (indicating the check valve moves freely), then open up the accelerator jets a bit. I'm not very familiar with the DCOE carbs, but on the IDF and IDE carbs the screw that held the squirter in was the metering jet, controlled by the hole size in the side of the screw. I've never had any issues tuning this before the mains as long as they are in the ballpark. the air bleed tubes on the other hand... Though I must say, all of my experience with dual Webers is on aircooled VWs. They are a bitch to tune, but once they are dialed, the sound of individual throttle bodies and the snappiness is so, so worth it. I'm looking forward to hearing the growl of the carbs at WOT!

[@austinniemela]

@@MonkeyWithAWrench so I did bunp my timing up and it helped with the bog. I do think it’s a bit rich on idle still! And I did pick up a size bigger accelerator pump jets so that may help along with a size smaller idle jet! Thanks for the help!

[@nopphonkwanyuen4879]

Retro Wheel is So Coollll

[@kasimbamunthali952]

It's the flasher unit or indicator relay Have it changed

[@frankmckinnis]

weber cards are a pain to dial in. however once dialed in they run fantastic

[@SUMMIT_MAN_VAN]

You plan on painting the truck a new color?

[@lemoncfpv8434]

why didnt you pick up the newer wideband aem guage model?? it has a more shallow mount too :D *are you preheating your sensor?

[@ericwright6672]

Don't give up its NOT your nature! YOU R MAKING PROGRESS ,KEEP ON TRUCKING!

[@ronthompson2366]

Btw... and I understand that your focus now is this build. However you have that beautiful FJ in the lineup.... There is a Company called the "FJ COMPANY ". They specialize in restro mods to the classic FJ. I don't know that it would be a parts source. However it is a great source of being able to see. Some modern upgrades they have done. While at the same time they have kept the factory appearance. Considering that they are asking 250k for them.... Well it's something that you can look at for build ideas.... look up on KZbin... Larry Chen... he posted a video about them. Just passing on a little information.

[@frediefarmer]

👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽 starting to sound good

[@raymondwymore7550]

The 80 minute charge time is enough reason for me to get the Delta 2.

[@austinniemela]

Sweet! These power stations are really nice to have!

[@muasboy]

Dude, i love the music u pick. I do stupid rap freestyles whenever the beat comes on hahah

[@austinniemela]

Hahaha good stuff!

[@muasboy]

@@austinniemela ive been restoring my dad’s 91 pickup..and your channel hits home!! It’s crazy how much work you do independently 👍

[@SpecialMotors]

hello, does the rigid throttle linkage give you problems when the engine moves? congratulations for your work, I also have a youtube channel and I understand the effort behind it.

[@austinniemela]

It does move with the engine but inside the truck I don’t feel it in the pedal! Thanks man!

[@zedan6783]

how much the price of the echo flow ???

[@jessebrown2100]

.... never drill as that disrupts flow, jet reamer and plug gauges ......

[@mrm4155]

It may be your master cylinder and not the booster. Try using a pressure bleeder to push the fluid through instead of pulling it with the vacuum bleeder

[@albinoblacksheep7826]

Hard days but it wil be worth it.

[@angelsalamandra6560]

The engine that you have put on it looks good and how it will sound when you have it at 100 on the road 💯👊

[@270Remi]

Talk to uncle tony's garage, he's a g at carb stuff.

[@You-ps3ks]

Do you need a brake booster

[@hookset4137]

Are you grounded to the frame?

[@rogerjohnson3392]

That's what I was thinking.

[@drewbrouder4233]

What sort of ignition coil setup is that ?

[@austinniemela]

The dui distributor has the coil and igniter in it!

[@drewbrouder4233]

@@austinniemela where do I get a dui distributor

[@OzBull]

Good shit mate

[@billocampo1365]

Ebay Motors should or maybe have your booster..

[@adventureescape1929]

Nice job!

[@edmartini9724]

The wiper circuit is more complex than you're giving it credit for. I'm sending a link through your "contact us" page. Hope it helps. Is there a cam on the rotor that pulls that switch closed as it turns? In some FJ40s there's a plunger, but in the link I'm sending you can see the switch has two sides and it's always connected to one or the other, so????

[@edmartini9724]

Spin the control board without the motor connected and see if you can figure out what closes the switch, or use the rotor without the magnets and can to turn it around and see what's going on. I sent, also, another link to a youtube video that explains in some detail how the 5 wires work. Search jEzOHIGppX4 on youtube for that video.

[@edmartini9724]

Another video: Pa4jv8FvjAQ It doesn't answer your question about those contacts, but might allow you to retrofit a generic wiper motor.

[@PipoRacing717]

Saludo desde PR 🇵🇷🇵🇷🇵🇷💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽🔥🔥🔥yo tengo una pick up 86

[@elinorafael3125]

Nice job

[@rlscustoms]

Happens everytime after a build, it kicks your ass as you get closer to completion

[@austinniemela]

Sure does! It’s all the little things that take the longest!

[@rlscustoms]

@@austinniemela the last 10% takes the longest yup!

[@genel5103]

Why are you running dual carbs with an electric fuel pump??

[@austinniemela]

What else am I supposed to run? Hopes and dreams?

[@genel5103]

Back when I had my toyota 4x4, a 1985 model, it didn't have EFI, it had a carb. It was fed fuel by a camshaft actuated fuel pump installed on the side of the 22R motor. I feel as though your feeding it too much fuel with the electric pump, and it's flooding those dual sidedraft carbs. I'm no mechanic, but I've replaced quite a few of those bumpstick operated fuel pumps on friends trucks.

[@austinniemela]

@@genel5103 2 psi! This truck had a electric pump from factory!!

[@user-cl8bn9ew1t]

صبغ السيارة اشوكت اتكملها

[@Stranger-nj3il]

مش ناوي يصبغها

[@madcratebuilder]

You need a air flow meter to sync the carbs. A meter the fits over the carb intake and measures the air flow. Sync the carbs before doing anything else.

[@austinniemela]

Did you watch the video?

[@gaboonviper85]

Thats what he did although I'd use a different style one that can balance 4 ports at once.....installing air line nipples in each runner making balancing much easier for thr future.

[@oakleyjack7600]

😂

[@JoseMedina-zn4ev]

Realy passenger side

[@caseyn720]

Get a new turn signal flasher.

[@caseyn720]

Of course I comment before i watch the whole video.

[@sevenonekilo7044]

haven't finished the video yet but... those gauges are so problematic and when they fail that's what they do. Read all the way lean. they're quite bad for the price

[@ColonCrusher]

Seems like most issues you are having are because of grounding.

[@clementnyen5426]

try hilux ln166 booster

[@Dustin.Wright]

You have to be sick of pulling the bed off and putting it back on

[@Just_me1776]

Man that booster may be ruining how your engine is running 😬

[@oscarviniciohernandezlopez892]

🇬🇹🇬🇹👍👍👍👑👑

[@MussaKZN]

You get a Hilux with 10 wires and everything is fried!! Lucky your No into EVs