Turbo Replacement 2013 Ford Escape.

[@paulregner5335]

Pulling the right front axle shaft was an excellent call! I have a 2014 Escape 4wd with the 2.0L, and the waste gate in my original turbo was roasted to the point of a perpetual P0299 code. Haynes manuals insist that with my vehicle the engine mount on the passenger side needs to be unbolted, and the engine dropped by about three inches to get the turbo out from the top. I followed your advice and removed the axle shaft, and even with the 4wd parts, there was plenty of room to get the turbo out and the new unit in from the bottom. The clamp that fixes the turbo to the catalytic converter was a bit fiddly with the 4wd parts in the way, but not impossible by any means. Thank you for making this video, it was a tremendous help!

[@275stratos]

Thanks for the feed back.

[@Iamalwayscorrectfu]

So you did it all without having to remove/move the PTU?

[@275stratos]

@williamnixon5037 yes that is correct

[@paulregner5335]

@@Iamalwayscorrectfu Yup!

[@chipmitchell2631]

This is how you make a car repair video! Quick and to the point.

[@275stratos]

Thanks , I don’t like watching a video that talks for 10 minutes before showing us what to do 😄

[@elt2jv1984]

I'm doing this job right now. I got this video and the workshop manual on my laptop on my workbench. Thank you!

[@275stratos]

Glad it was helpful!

[@liquidether]

Thanks for this video! It inspired me to tackle the job successfully. For any interested future viewers I was able to pull the turbo out topside with some fenagling without removing the front axle though agree removing the axle would have probably made it simpler. Or maybe made easier by dropping the engine on the passenger side an inch or two as was mentioned by another viewer. I did have to go below as shown in this video to remove bolts and lines. Instead of dropping the engine or removing the axel I removed the exhaust VVT solenoid (little cylinder with a plug on the top rear passenger side of the engine, one 10mm bolt holding it in, pops out rearward). That solenoid was blocking the turbo's topside removal by fractions of an inch. I also had to remove the turbo's black plastic intake boot (three 8mm bolts). I removed the turbo with the exhaust manifold as one unit. Had I removed the manifold from the turbo first it might have been easier (and lighter)? Mine is a 2013 1.6 FWD model. I completed the swap in about 6 curse filled hours as a boneheaded bozo backyard dummy using this video as a guide so again, thanks for making it! I had to drain some coolant which I captured from the turbo's lines into a clean bucket when disconnecting them (they're the larger stacked lines on the rear of the turbo). I poured the coolant through a coffee filter back into the system when I was done to reduce waste and save another few bucks. I'm not just boneheaded, I'm cheap. You will also probably have to drain your oil first. Mine was already all over my garage floor from the leak.

[@275stratos]

Thanks for the feed back .I’m glad you was able to take on the task.

[@ressybastien6002]

Thanks for this feedback, I have to do it on my car, makes me more confident about

[@ED---209]

Hi Scott. Could you tell me what, other than the turbo itself, needs to be replaced in this install? Are there any other hoses or lines that should be replaced? The shop mentioned something about a gasket also, does this come with the turbo? Thanks.

[@liquidether]

@@ED---209 I may have gotten lucky but none of my gaskets or seals looked bad. I'd gotten a new exhaust manifold gasket (between manifold and block) and used it just because I had it but I couldn't tell a difference between the new one and the old one. I got my replacement turbo used on eBay from a wrecked low mileage Escape so it didn't come with any extras and I reused all the same bolts from the original. The plastics can get brittle but if you're careful enough and lucky enough then you'll know after you have it apart if you'll need to replace any of those bits or can reuse (as I was able to) everything other than the turbo. The turbo I got was also attached to the exhaust manifold from its Escape and I didn't mess with the gasket between those parts. I just swapped the replacement as it came. So far, so good. That Variable Valve Timing solenoid on the top has plastic bits so please be careful when unplugging/removing if you go that route for pulling the turbo. That thing can also be the source of an oil leak on its own (mine was) and is pretty cheap and easy to replace as a starting point if you're not convinced it's your turbo. Good luck!

[@Hustler_state]

Also, for us weekend mechanics, the ball joint from Lower control arm, it might come loose fairly easy, but finding proper leverage can be tricky. I blocked up the jack to gain more height, placing jack stands properly up front, and bigger isn't always better for prybar, I started with a thick ass heavy one, but it wouldn't hold while I was hammering the arm, so I swapped to a thinner 24"the type with a plastic handle on one end, pushed it down by hand, held it down with my right knee, and then hammered the control arm the last little bit so it would pop. Those were the two most time consuming things that frustrated me the most with the replacement as they are generally simple but just don't play as they should

[@paularteau9482]

Awesome. Thanks. I'm about to do mine. Couldn't have been better. At 320,000km time to refresh the beast

[@275stratos]

You’re welcome Im glad it helps .

[@paularteau9482]

@@275stratos honestly. After not having alldata, videos like this are just as helpful. And as its winter in alberta. And I work in my driveway. Its great to see if there is any hidden hardware. Tbh. If I were to publish videos I'd probably be just as thorough And to the point.

[@tinytattoomike7943]

Excellent video man getting ready to do a transmission and gonna do the turbo while I’m there 😉

[@275stratos]

Glad you liked it . Like and subscribe helps me to continue make videos.

[@p0st4L]

Perfect timing with the video! I'm sourcing a leak on my Escape and this gives me a good idea of what I'm gettin' into if the source is one of the oil supply lines on the turbo.

[@275stratos]

Thanks for the feed back . I’m glad this video helps you .

[@Hustler_state]

I'm also fairly certain you will.have to take off the coolant line backside of engine as well. Loosening is fine, but I'm not able to get the turbo pulled pulled enough off the manifold bolts to clear them without taking the coolant line all the way off. You didn't mention draining coolant from thr engine, or even from the turbo. So be prepared if you don't drain it to at least do so of the coolant line after you loosen from the turbo. It will be a fair amount, enough for a pan or wide mouthed bucket of some sort.

[@popsikyle]

This is what I was trying to determine... so I do need to drain the coolant to get this done? Mine is the 2013 fusion, but the same engine (1.6L)

[@275stratos]

Yes drain the coolant . If possible catch it in a clean bucket so you can reuse it .

[@popsikyle]

@@275stratos cool, thanks

[@texusarmy-fister7697]

If this is your first Turbo swap, then this is not the best video for you... But if you have a 2013, then this is just about your only video. That being said... You might discover that a lot of call-outs on tools are "wrong". So before you lose your mind... Ford Escape owners, especially of the 2013 first year of the new body and engine, have discovered (through forums and video comments) that no two Escapes seem to be created perfectly identical. This can lead to destroying some bolts if you're not very careful. Some bolt heads are hard/impossible to see, so if you heard a Torx called out and things are little bit in the way, you might mistakenly think you have issues due to a tough angle, tight space, etc... When in reality, YOUR Escape does NOT have a Torx there; it has an Allen. My Escape has an infuriating mix of Metric and SAE... and at times, bolts that should be the same, will be different sizes. It's like someone mixed up their parts and other times it feels like Ford purchased "Seconds" and chose to use left over parts from all kinds of other lines, depending which plant made the Escape. My current issue is getting the Turbo to come off the 4 manifold bolts. It's not a clearance issue. It's just nearly impossible to get that flange to slide off of the manifold studs/bolts. Like everything with the Escape, it's a pain in the arse, like the Escape is fighting me. Having the called-out tools was not good enough because I had different parts and needed different sockets/bits and bigger sizes. Just be prepared to face adversity and hopefully you won't have to take that beat down. LOL

[@275stratos]

I called out the wrong tools?

[@texusarmy-fister7697]

@@275stratos "Wrong" ... as in what people think if they haven't spent much time reading through forums over the years. My point is to make sure that people understand that with the 2013 in particular, not every 2013 Ford Escape SE Ecoboost 2.0L FWD is identical. Sadly, they are not. It feels like Ford was either using what they had or they were already in the process of making changes throughout that 2012 production year. That might make sense, since the 2014+ models varied from the 2013 in many ways under the skin. For the same bolts, nuts, etc., my Escape often required 1-2 sizes different. Some of your Torx were Allen for me and vice versa. For me, that meant I lacked a couple of the sizes/types of sockets/bits to do the entire job... which meant putting it all back together so that I could run to AutoZone. LOL Lack of time to restart that project, made this long weekend my second attempt. So, no, you weren't wrong about your Escape, but some of the tools were "wrong" for my Escape. My Escape is like a person who hates doctors & hospitals... she has fought me every bolt of the way! I can't seem to work the knuckle loose and the CV Spline doesn't move, in-and-out a little bit, freely either so I'm not sure if it's the angle (front end up high enough for me to work under it comfortably) or if it's seized. Meaning I am forced to try to extract the TC from the top. I've seen it done by a couple of people on their 2013, but doggone if I can get it all the way out. I'm close and I've trimmed a little non-visible, non-weight bearing metal but I still haven't quite achieved extraction. I cannot figure out how those other folks managed it so quickly and easily... Except that maybe my Escape is just that kind of "Special". LOL There is nothing left in the way, except the firewall pipes, which I think are AC lines and wouldn't be worth disconnecting to gain 1/16" when I can wiggle past them with only light scratches. I have struts to do but they will need to wait and I'm wondering if it's time for new ball joints since their sleeves are all looking oddly flat/deflated in appearance. No issues yet but why wait if they might be headed there. Need the Escape for Tuesday morning to get to the VA Hospital 5 hours away I need this TC out and the new one to go back in that same path. Then I need to figure out if there should be a tiny drain hole forged into the bottom of the transmission box where it bolts to the oil pan. It looks like something chipped a hole in it but my uncle wondered if it might be a drain hole for water or something??? I haven't seen any leaks , but it it was chipped by something I ran over one night, as it fell off a truck, then I want to put some high temp red in it to seal it. Keep the salty humid coastal air out of there if that hole doesn't belong. Hope that further clarifies my clarification in my post. Very few 2013-specific videos online but I'm discovering these tools issues... And wonder if that's why Haynes Manual Videos don't call out sizes. I just wish my Escape was either Metric or SAE instead of a healthy mix of both. Maybe my Escape was a "Monday Morning" Escape. LMAO

[@davidcorbit3931]

You sir a a pain in your own ass...put up your video

[@Sean20Gaming]

Fantastic video! Well done man!

[@275stratos]

Your welcome.

[@tboneproductions2453]

Very nice overview. Thanx. Was wondering how big a job this would be

[@275stratos]

You’re welcome I’m glad this video helps you. If you need any more information let me know.

[@patrickbauer5358]

Bolts for drain line different length. Shorter go into turbo, longer into block. Otherwise it will leak oil. Lesson learned.

[@island03z]

Hey, thanks for the video. Do you remember what replacement parts were one-time use only parts that you needed to buy? Ford is saying things like the oil return line is a single use item.

[@275stratos]

I did reuse the oil return line . I replaced all the gasket and banjo washers .

[@tangoplays2547]

This seems much easier than the 2014, instead of a clamp that leads to your exhaust, the turbo has 3 10mm bolts...2 are easy enough to get to, but the third is at a 30 degree angle on top, just out of sight. And some fucking Ford clown decided to use some cheap, soft steel on it. If your angle is off just a bit, you'll round off that bolt insanely easy. Ford constantly finds ways to give the average owner the finger, and the turbo is one perfect example of it.

[@2hhardpk]

How did you get the 3 bolt out

[@275stratos]

Try a ratchet wrench or Swivel socket

[@adamkizer3173]

I’m currently changing a turbo on a 2014. I have all bolts out but need about 2 inches more of space to clear the studs that are on top. How where you able to drop the turbo down?

[@brown55061]

Great job on this video. I have a connect van with the 1.6 and taking the axle out to service a turbo is just plain silly. Shame on Ford (or whatever engineer came up with that!) Wish it wasn't so hard, the motor needs a bigger snail shell.

[@275stratos]

Thanks I’m glad it helped.

[@chris71mach1]

What condition prompted you to replace the turbo in the first place?

[@275stratos]

@@chris71mach1 low boost code and no power

[@robertmartinez4868]

Great Video!!! Do you have the turbo manufacture´s part number? Looks like a KO3 or similar, is it? Thanks!

[@noahortiz8207]

lot of help thankyou very much

[@DSGB2199]

Do you know where that oil leak is coming from right there around that banjo bolt that goes into the block. I think you said it was coolant feed. I have a pretty bad oil leak in that area myself. Was wondering if you had insight

[@275stratos]

Okay I went back and looked at the video. It could be that oil supply line leaking or the drain back tube line . Your best option is to jack the car up in the air out safety stands under it clean the area good with brake cleaner up start the engine and let it get warmed up climb under the vehicle see if you can see the leak

[@gabyvera6996]

Hello, I’ve seen other videos where they just look for a leak. When would we know we just need to replace the whole thing?

[@275stratos]

I was getting a lost boost code .

[@Hustler_state]

And on some escape those bolts on the heat shield are t-25 or t 30,torx and I tell you they can make you life miserable. At least mine did. I ended up cutting with a 1, and 3"cutting wheel on a die grinder to slit up to the torx after they stripped, because hard to get proper leverage without a lift, and just removed it that way. Ford engineers sure weren't thinking about us when they designed that. Go look at any other turbo suv from subaru Honda etc and you'll see how much easier things are to get to in general than the escapes edges or f150z

[@TheArmadon]

Bro this is killing me atm. Stupid torx crap.

[@scorpioscorpio1652]

Hi did you have to remove the exhaust to get to the turbo?

[@275stratos]

Yes

[@275stratos]

I did not remove the exhaust pipe just the 4 bolts at the manifold

[@donaldace21]

Did your turbo come with a gasket where it connects to the headers?

[@275stratos]

To be honest I don’t remember

[@Mjs_74]

I developed an oil leak coming for the turbo area. This was after a dealership found a mouse nest that got sucked into it from the air filter. I didn't point 2 and 2 together until it was way to late. Car still drive great just loses a bunch of oil. I can fix any thing but car isn't my thing. This video help me realize it is coming from the turbo now do I paly $2600 to fix or do I jump in head first🤔

[@275stratos]

Do you have tools and some knowledge?

[@Mjs_74]

@@275stratos I have a good amount of tools, I'm mechanically inclined and a Electrician by trade just cars has never been my things, lol. Plus I done have the best place to tear into a big project.

[@toddturbett]

@@Mjs_74 , do it. I just tore my whole engine out for a swap out, I’m reusing my trans I just replaced last year. So while the engine is out I’m putting in a newer turbo. This video is short and quick but he points out just about everything you need except new gaskets. You can find those parts on another KZbin video , I just watched it. It may be for an Explorer but at least it gives you an idea which ones to replace.

[@Papajonny5]

Does any atf come out when pulling axle? How easy to top off if it does?

[@275stratos]

You might loose some . It’s not to bad to remove

[@mainormelgar8274]

How long did it take you to do the whole job?

[@275stratos]

If I remember correctly around 5-6 hrs

[@parkcookandmusic389]

I have a 2013 with low pressure turbo... Im CA and traveling.... are u on the west coast? if so how much would u charge me labor for this replacement

[@275stratos]

I’m in TN

[@parkcookandmusic389]

@@275stratos crap alright

[@dariogtz]

Well everything was going ok till you said transmission transaxle i just take it to mechanic for 80 bucks labor is not bad and if you dont mind me asking why you replacing turbo

[@275stratos]

$80 labor is good . It had a low boost code is the best I can remember

[@tinyfisher8542]

Do u take the strut assembly off the passenger side as well...

[@275stratos]

I did not take the strut off

[@Bert956]

How long did that take you for the complete removal and reinstall?

[@275stratos]

Around 3 hrs maybe 4

[@Bert956]

@@275stratos Thanks for reply!

[@dustinmacomber4565]

Where did you end up pulling the turbo out from the top or the bottom?

[@275stratos]

From the bottom

[@dustinmacomber4565]

@@275stratos do you have to take off the other end that the turbo connects to some piece to the exhaust? I'm assuming I'm not a car guy, I'm just trying to do it myself

[@dustinmacomber4565]

I've got everything disconnected and it won't pull out

[@275stratos]

@dustinmacomber4565 you just have to remove the clamp that hold turbo to exhaust

[@dustinmacomber4565]

You know that brass clamp that you undo that goes to the turbo to the manifold. Do you have to rip out the piece that that clamp connects those two pieces?

[@richardmaestas5027]

I have a 2013 as well and it seems to be running about half power the codes say throttle sensor stuck open and low turbo boost I was wondering what was this car doing the same thing and what the codes were

[@richardmaestas5027]

And do you think the throttle sensor could cause it to run half power if it’s stuck open

[@275stratos]

I just had the low boost code

[@275stratos]

Definitely check your throttle plate . If it throttle body doesn’t match your throttle pedal it can put it in limp mode

[@richardmaestas5027]

@@275stratos How do I check to see if they match I’m not sure how all that works and thanks for replying to me so soon I really appreciate it

[@travissnyder8277]

My turbo is leaking at there flange, has dried cooked oil on it. is there a seal behind there? New turbo on the way. 137k miles 1.6l 2014

[@275stratos]

Yes there is a gasket, it’s so you don’t have a exhaust leak, There is not supposed to be oil in that area. That Means either your turbo is shot

[@275stratos]

you don’t have. a oil leak above and it’s dripping down on the turbo .

[@travissnyder8277]

So it's not leaking from there? it's leaking from up higher and dropping down on turbo? And turbo isn't shot, drives excellent. Just have to check oil weekly. Well going to check the valve cover gasket

[@275stratos]

If there are no other leaks visible from any area on the engine, the turbo could be internally shot, which would be why oil is coming from that area. Is the oil on the bottom or top of turbo? Because it could be puddling inside.

[@travissnyder8277]

@@275stratos if turbo was shot and puddling inside would it still be drivable tho? Only asking cause it drives, just slowly losing oil somewhere. And I can't find any leaks, drips, just jacked it up to crawl under and check turbo and see burnt oil at that flange.

[@BoostinChick]

Did you see any way possible to remove the turbo from the top once you removed the wiper cowl?

[@275stratos]

Still have to get under it to remove some lines and brackets .

[@BoostinChick]

@@275stratos Oh for sure! I meant the removal of the turbo from the top versus having to take out the axle and suspension pieces.

[@275stratos]

I don’t remember for sure. But for me to take the axle out means it made something easier .

[@hasanmohammed3340]

Can a 2.0l turbo fit into 1.6l escape? Is it bigger turbo?

[@275stratos]

If the part numbers are the same yes .

[@patrickbauer5358]

No, 2.0 uses v-clamp to cat, 1.6 has 3 bolts

[@caliveteranOIF]

What was the reason for replacing the turbo on the escape?

[@275stratos]

Under boost codes .l

[@caliveteranOIF]

@@275stratos Thank you sir. Great video by the way. Mine seems to by leaking oil. Air tubes soaking with oil. So looks like I may be doing the same thing.

[@Lifeinthe906]

Did you install a complete assembly if so where did you buy it?

[@275stratos]

Yes it come complete. I honestly don’t remember where it come from the customer already had it.

[@Lifeinthe906]

@@275stratos Thanks gonna tackle one next week

[@275stratos]

Good luck and take your time also take pictures as you go in case you need look back at them for reference .

[@Lifeinthe906]

@@275stratos Thanks for your time

[@jbstepchild]

What engine was this

[@275stratos]

1.6 engine

[@ernestosotoherrera2038]

Would you recommend this vehicle?

[@275stratos]

They definitely have Transmisson problems and turbo problems . I wouldn’t pick the Ford over a Toyota Highlander or Honda CR-V if you’re looking for a small suv.

[@ernestosotoherrera2038]

AUTO TECH TURPIN so in other words it’s a ticking time bomb?

[@275stratos]

It’s not if your going to have problems . it’s more like when because it’s going to happen.

[@ernestosotoherrera2038]

AUTO TECH TURPIN thank you for your time, I’ve been researching it all day. Probably won’t be getting it after all!

[@orton1900]

Is this the 1.6 ?

[@275stratos]

Yes it’s the 1.6 engine

[@jeffreywagoner3173]

@@275stratos Are you sure this is for a 1.6 liter? Reason I'm asking is that the 1.6 liter turbocharger has only 3 bolts to the exhaust manifold versus 4 on the 2.0 liter turbo.

[@275stratos]

Yeah it was a 1.6

[@jeffreywagoner3173]

@@275stratos OK. Hey thanks for the video - really appreciate your taking the time to do it. My son and I are going to tackle the job next week, and this makes it much easier.

[@alvarezhampton-bey3033]

What's the price for a job like that

[@275stratos]

I think it was around $1,500 labor and parts!!

[@sock979]

Is this AWD

[@275stratos]

It was just from wheel drive.