Chinese Diesel Heater Controller Instructions - Advanced Settings PIN Code 1688 How Change The Setup

1688 gives you access to alter many features on you Chinese diesel heater, in this video I
delve deeper into the setting of your Chinese Diesel Air Heater by accessing the advanced settings menu.
This 1688 pin coded section of the LED controller gives access to:
Pump dosage rate in Hz.
Fan speed in RPM
System voltage setting
Fan speed recognition magnets
Burner on/off control
I bought my Chinese diesel air heater kit for ebay: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-534...
It has proved to be a very reliable and efficient heat source for my motorhome.
#ChineseDieselHeaterInstructions #HeaterPinCode #DieselHeaterController

[@getemgirlvan]

Thank you sooo much for making this video!!! Almost gave up on changing the fan speed and only keeping the pump on the lowest setting to stop it from overheating.

[@derekbull3878]

Thanks for this Steve, My heater, after a years use I might add, went nuts. The pump just wouldn't slow down. Purchased a new motherboard and heat sensor, installed them and no difference, pull it apart and cleaned everything, took out the glow plug and blasted light oil from spray can through the mesh around the glow plug. All back together and,, no difference, the pump was hammering away causing dark grey smoke. There's no information anywhere on slowing your pump down, the basic settings are un-useable really. Getting into the advanced settings is a revelation! Cheers for the pin code! I set the pulse to .8 and the fan 1500 - 5000 and she's behaving herself again! She belts out the heat until the temps up and then goes whisper quiet with the pump ticking over at a slow heartbeat, every now and then she speeds up to clear the excess fuel and slows right back down again. Thank You Thank You!

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Derek Yes, playing around with those setting can really fine tune these units if you are getting problems. I'm glad it helped you. ATB, Steve

[@alexstarfield568]

thanks a lot, a Chinese friend of mine gave me a different heater with the numeric displays (not the graphical one) She translated what was engraved on the displays unit so I could understand what was written on it and what the little computer was telling me. Parts where missing or worn out, I bought them : a new heat plug (it was dead) a new pump (it was missing) and a bunch of new stainless meshes (it cant be bad) it was so cheep and came fast! your code 1688 worked perfectly and I was able to adapt the frequency to the new pump that was giving too much for this little unit. now I have a heater to use on my sailing boat even "unplugged" at sea thanks very much again

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Alex, Yes, the instruction are something to drive you mad eh..! Glad you got there in the end.... ATB, Steve

[@gordonmitchell729]

Perfect thanks for the details. All set now and looking (feeling) good. I love it when a plan comes together lol.

[@topgunpilott]

I have one of these heaters... The "OF", while I don't know what it means, is not related to the burner. it is, in fact, a menu that allows that lets you change the factory PIN. The factory pin is in fact 1688 and I used this menu to change it to 6666, just to make it easier to get into the advanced settings. The rest of your descriptions for the settings are spot on.

[@misu377]

Hi after I push’off’ now I can’t go to meniu, how can I change the password? Please can you tell me? 🤔

[@inoxat49]

Did you resolve this as I've done the same!@@misu377

[@perttukilpelainen4010]

Thank’s for the video. Thank’s to everyone for good tips in comments too. Going to adjusting for lower diesel consumption. ❤

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Glad it helped 👍

[@BeHereWell]

this was super helpful, thanks for posting! i had been wondering why my battery icon was flashing!

[@LITTLEEXPERIMENTCHANNEL1]

Thanks for this. Worked a treat fella.

[@LITTLELONDON64]

Great job bud this helps me a lot.

[@henryha5073]

Thank you mate ! For adjust the voltage . Great video

[@AndreasEUR]

COntroller is 12/24v, the heater itself IS NOT! Correct voltage heater must be bought, they are NOT dual voltage.

[@springbush]

Thanks Steve, useful videos

[@davidconner-shover51]

when I first started mine, it belched smoke, fuel/air mixture settings are set by the max/min pump speeds against the fan speed (not by air mass) I live at a high altitude, and quickly discovered that everything was set to sea level operation I had to back off on the max fuel pump speeds against the maximum fan speed to find a happy medium; namely, it wasn't belching smoke, and the exhaust didn't reek of diesel fuel these heaters don't shut off when the setpoint temp is reached, merely slow down to the lowest settings. so I set the minimum airflow rate to minimum, as well as the minimum pump speed, producing the least amount of heat

[@douwe4549]

Mine was running far too hot, so thanks to you, i can now run it on 0.8hz

[@fufucker9898]

Did it work to cool it down? Just installed mine and at lowest factory setting its cooking me.

[@douwe4549]

It is possible to make the fuel pump tick over slower. How? I believe, its long time ago, you can somehow lower the minimum ticks per minute as the lowest value that it will run with. Mine was cooking me too. I think the 3 and 5 kw units are the same with just another minimum treshold..

[@duncansampson8120]

@@douwe4549 you can if you purchase the quiet diesel pump there is a nob on the top there not cheap but a quality product he makes them him self well worth a look on utube

[@4wdingandcampingwesternaus296]

great video mate, cheers

[@mickmcrae6239]

So helpful thank you

[@chrisharrell2449]

I have seen in comments on other videos the SN1 and SN2 changing to SN2 if you have an error 05 can sometimes fix it if there is no physical obstruction to airflow

[@AZdirtdog]

After playing with the setting I figured out you can set the rpm to 3500 for night time use about 2.5-2.7 pulse and the 1500rom idle at about 1.0-1.2 pulse at night in thermostat mode while sleeping

[@MorfMusic]

Can you explain this more? I’m keen to set it up at a lower output as I’m melting in my van :)

[@AZdirtdog]

@@MorfMusic you need to match the pulse to the rpm to an extent, I found 1.4 at idle keeps both hot bars on 1.2 keeps one bar on and igniter stays off ( never had it turn back on but that would mean not enough fuel) you can adjust the max rpm to 3500 on auto and find the pulse that keeps the fire correct. If you leave the pulse at 5.0 it will flood the low rpm chamber and create smoke and stink

[@NAldrighetti]

I somehow changed it to Fahrenheit in this menu. No idea how but I'll survive lol thanks for the info, I couldn't figure the menu out

[@NewLife-qj9mx]

If you ever figure out how you changed it to F let me know - so sick of trying to remember the C conversion 🙄

[@stuartmccloud307]

helpful, thanks mate.

[@plebjimbo]

Thanks for a great guide. Especially the info on the 16688 entry into factory settings. My unit was smelling like hot plastic and it would often cut out after 10 min with [E-05] (Overheating). I logged into the factory settings and adjusted the minimum fan speed to 1900 RPM which solved both problems. More air = cooler temperature of the heater but the heat is still distributed into the room.

[@timt3623]

Without this video I’d have no idea how to change it from 24 to 12 as it arrived set on 24 and kept spitting out a E-01. Thank you!

[@casper5478]

How do you get the voltage input to stay? I replaced my display and the default is 24. I changed this and it runs fine. When power is reapplied, it defaults back to 24. I have to change it every time power is removed.

[@darrencarriere7592]

Great video!! Do I need to change the factory settings to allow my heater to run solely off a leisure battery once it has warmed up?

[@slavsquench7693]

interesting video, thanks.

[@skynjaydensdaddy]

Thank You!!!!!!!

[@kellygb9278]

Great info, I have written it down for my future hiccups:) When I first set my unit up, it kept faulting with a E-006 code. It had never ran. This is suppose to be a misaligned magnet setting on the blower I reset the magnet pick up but every time I reset the power, it would fault out again. I moved it in a step at a time & out a step at a time. Powering off the unit after each adjustment. I read did in a post that if you held both arrow buttons in while reapplying the voltage it would clear the fault memory buffer. That fix it! Now the only thing I can't figure out is the first screen after power up. I has a message of message

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

I've not heard of the problem before Kelly..? So can't help with a fix I afraid. Good tip on resetting the unit though. Thank you and good luck 👍 Steve

[@kellygb9278]

@@TheWrinklyNomads The odd thing is, If I let the unit sit overnight - Power Off, it will start the next day. I've given up on the injector pump, I have a new one coming in today. Will let you know how it goes

[@denniscote176]

Thank you very much.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

You are welcome Dennis 👍

[@garethjones5678]

my fan keep coming on and i think it may be something to do with my solar panel showing 13.4v (shows on heater lcd too 13.4v) could this be causing my fan to turn on although no errors show? or could it just be my temp sensor? cheers for the passcode, needed that.

[@jesp999]

ar very high altitude like rocky mountains changing the pulse rate and fan speed is important because then there is less oxygen in the air if you run it at factory settings it will not burn clean and soot up inside and stop working. I do not remember the settings but these Chinese heaters will not work well at very high altitudes without these settings adjusted properly

[@anthonyburnett7738]

Any idea what's wrong with mine had a few months now been working fine until today went out to find it running .wont torn of won't fire up although all lights show its heated up can't turn it off unless I disconnect from battery .....left a while in case it needs resetting but as soon as I connect to battery the fan runs but nothing else , I can flip between screens but can't get it to fire up..am I doing something wrong as it bends working fine until today 25 jan 2021

[@barrymeomartini1214]

How do i put it back to factory settings

[@user-hs3pz4td1i]

The SN setting 1 or 2 just after the voltage setting is about the number of magnets in the fanwheel. Just open up the heater and look between te controllerboard and the fan while rotate the fan with your hand and count the little metal round objects in the fan. If you count only one, then set SN to 1 and if you count two, obvoiously set SN to 2. This has to do with an acurate measuring of the fan speed.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Thank you Rhonda. Very helpful 👍

[@user-hs3pz4td1i]

You are welcome @@TheWrinklyNomads

[@christhorney]

oh i can maby turn the hz down so it doesnt cook me on low i usually have my window open otherwise it gets far too hot, i accidently put it into mountain mode before i think that made it a lower hz so it seems cooler i was trying to find info on the mountain mode, i went to hold the up and down button to cycle the pump but i accidently held the ok and settings buttons down for a couple of seconds before i realised the pump wasnt cycle so i looked at the pad and had a mountain symbol showing at the top, im thinking it will run at a leaner burn for altitude or something so its running cooler now it seems it might save me some money on fuel and save me from cooking myself overnight, if not i can look into the hz settings, thanks

[@alinver]

Cheers.

[@Kyle-Veilleux]

i believe "s n " is the South and North poles of the magnet. on the fan motor rpm pickup

[@reidnichol9255]

YES it is. Most heaters come out south-north, south-north but the odd one gets out with the magnet installed south-north, north-south which is SN-2

[@delron44]

cheers m8

[@gregoryosborn2466]

If it gets to dirty and the flame keeps going out or not igniting turn max rmap down to 3500. It allows it to stay light and then after it's warmed up turn it back up to 4500rpm.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Interesting... thank you

[@marcass100]

Thanks. Starting to really like your videos as I find you provide information i am looking for for example how low on hz and rom this goes down. Cheers

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Glad you like them Marius and thanks for watching👍

[@giopirmisashvili5514]

Thank you

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

You're welcome 👍

[@ProblematicTube]

What I'm realising is most people don't understand the temperature setting. The controllable temp is what you are setting the fuel temp to be (it won't go higher than what you have set) the non controllable temp is the temperature of the heat exchange fins and therefore basically the temperature the air is getting blown out into the room. It's not the temperature of actual the room.

[@lucianodibiase1265]

I'm trying to understand what you mean, can you explain further?

[@ProblematicTube]

@@lucianodibiase1265 Hi, I've changed my mind on that. I think the temp on the controller is supposed to be the temperature of the room. I am using it on a drafty boat with not great insulation so that is effecting it.

[@Lucentlens]

When the unit is overall set to 'Set the Temperature' - i.e. the up & down arrows allow you to set your desired temperature - this is meant to be setting the desired *room* temperature, & it reads this temperature from the LCD control itself - so, like in a house, for this use-case the controller needs to be placed in the room, not right next to the heater. This is part of why the controller cable is so long - it's expected to be far from the heater. In this 'Set the Temperature' mode - the heater will power up to full power, & when it detects that the room has reached the set temperature - it will go to Low power, & sit there until the thermostat reports that the room is cold again. In this mode, you are only ever able to set the target temperature, never fuelling or anything - all that is out of your control, controlled automatically by the heater. However - when the overall setting is 'Pump speed' - the up & down arrows control the pump speed (fuelling - in Hertz, pumps-per-second). This is precisely the same as controlling the heat *output* of the unit - & now the room temp/thermostat has *no* role to play. It's basically full-manual heat control. What is still 'automatic' in this mode though, is the fan speed. It will provide a fan speed suitable for the heat (Hertz) setting you've set - this will be a fixed relationship always - e.g. 3.0Hz will always be provided X speed of fan RPM. Some people don't like the way it manages temperature-based settings - i.e. Full power or Low - nothing in between - but this is inevitably a deliberate manufacturing decision, to maximise reliability (soot-free).

[@oliver90owner]

Clearly not many understand how the machines were set up and why settings may need to be changed. IT IS ALL ABOUT BURNING EFFICIENTLY. The combustion air is important in relation to the fuel delivered. Maximum efficiency is when only a tiny amount of carbon monoxide is produced in the exhaust gas, meaning the minimum combustion air is being delivered to completely burn the fuel. Double the fuel requires double the combustion air and this should be how the controller works. Too much fuel for the combustion air will cause coking; to much air means the flame temperature is reduced by excessive dilution air, meaning more of the fuel heat energy heat is expelled via the exhaust. At the optimum fuel:air ratio, the heat exchanger will work at its maximum temperature. This maximum air temperature is regulated by the hot air fan and should not give rise to a high temperature trip. However, if the hot air fan is unable to remove sufficient heat from the heat exchanger (maybe the fan is restricted, or the delivery ducting is/are restricted (too long?), so the fan speed may need to be raised for a given fuel setting. This, of course increases the combustion air - thereby reducing the machine efficiency. Also, if the combustion air is restricted in any way (both by the combustion air and/or exhaust pipe length/diameter/number of bends), the fan speed will need to be adjusted - which in turn would decrease the temperature of the hot air delivered (with an increase in fan speed/current for an amount of delivered heat). The machines have specifications for pipes (diameter/length/number of degrees of bend) where the machine is going to, or should, operate satisfactorily - but not necessarily optimally. Clearly at different altitudes the air density will be less so a larger volume of combustion air will be required for an efficient burn (there is still just as much oxygen in the air - about 21% - but there is less air in any given volume). The machines are likely set up for operation between sea level and about 500 feet (150m) altitude, although that upper level may not be correct. Now back to “IT’S ALL ABOUT BURNING EFFICIENTLY”. Simple enough? Get a carbon monoxide meter for setting it up or err on the lean running side to avoid coking, but your choice of course.

[@Lucentlens]

@@oliver90owner Fantastic information! I had already drawn a theory that in order to definitely prevent soot, combustion airflow had to be on the higher side (erring on that side). However - I didn't know what the downside was to that (until your post). Loss of efficiency. I'm happy (in my use-case) to let efficiency take a slight hit, in order to prevent soot.

[@robsycko]

Different setings for different size units?

[@user-xx9mx4hv6g]

The heater has a mind of it's own, even though I have turned it off it just randomly starts up for either a long period of time or short, any help would be appreciated.

[@davidfaulkner6008]

dont know if I am doing something wrong here.... following your video I set the temp to max (35C) fan speed to max (5000RPM) and tinkered with the pump rate....and I found that dropping the pump merely drops the fan speed which is kinda what I would have expected it to do.....

[@andymahers7782]

Great video I have the same controller. Any ideas when I select the 2nd hz setting that should be my maximum pulse rate this setting actually alters the pump speed. Not the first hz setting the second one speeds up and slows down the pump

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Not too sure what's happening there Andy..? From various other replies that I've had, these controllers sometimes seem to have a mind of their own..!!!! Sorry I can't be more helpful..

[@Retiredkiwi]

SN 1 or 2. my heater fan has 2 magnets, but just testing now, and it will not even light up if set to 2, ((Tried pf6 as well, still will not fire up).but setting back to SN 1 again, its away again now just fine. Wondering if sn means signal count number/multiplier, ie count each signal once or twice(1 magnet = count it twice). Any others able to test and report back? i will try second system as well now.

[@stiggunnarsvensson7640]

Thanks

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

You welcome Stig 👍🏼

[@Chippecoppefefe]

SN=1: If fan has 1 magnet attached to it, to give the RPM signal SN=2: If fan has 2 magnets attached to it, to give the RPM signal

[@zaraedwards4445]

Hi Simone, are you sure it is the number of magnets or is it the polarity of the magnet which some else has said? Thanks John.

[@zaraedwards4445]

SN I believe is the polarity of the magnet.

[@stevem3534]

Someone said push cog+ok button and heater goes to night mode pump slower tried mine no luck???

[@Retiredkiwi]

SN1 or 2 part 2 -have now Tried second system, same results, will not fire up at all if set to 2, despite having 2 magnets. fails to start and eventually flashes "on" and pump stops and glow stays on. Reset to 1 while at this stage, and she fired up fine again when glow finished timing, and pump restarted. So seems to me as they run at higher rpm on wrong setting, blowing the flame out(not even first bar of graph comes on when failing on sn2, yet comes on almost as soon as pump starts when on correct sn1 for 2 magnets, on both my systems.(have both systems in same area, off the same fuel tank and battery/solar charger, so was easy to test one while leaving other one running unaltered).

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

I wonder why, on shutdown, the thing pulses the pump periodically instead of simply shutting off the pump right away, and just leaving the fan running to cool down everything. When it does those individual pulses, it just creates stink because it's no able to burn cleaning as it's already cooling down. Is there any good reason for them doing this? I'm inclined to just unplug the fuel pump on shutdown to avoid the smell.

[@godboat.]

it needs to burn high right before shutdown to prevent soot buildup

[@rickmeyers5581]

Great instruction video. I followed directions to increase fan speed, but the increased setting was only momentary. How can I keep the fan speed at an increased speed?

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Rick, After setting the speed you must confirm it, press the bottom left button to keep the this in the memory. That should do it... ATB, Steve

[@rickmeyers5581]

@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks Steve. I did do that and it finally responded after multiple attempts. I have found that sometimes the buttons don't always respond the first time they are pushed. I haven't refired the unit since, so I don't know if it has retained the new info. Thanks again.

[@pelbo21]

Just installing my heater. I set the time and then checked the current temperature and then pressed to set the target temperature and it came up "P-40" What does this mean? I have not run the prime fuel yet - could this be the reason why??

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Paul, Never seen that one before? Are you sure its not P-4.0 That would make more sense as it means the pulse rate is set at 4.0 hz.. If you press up/down it alter accordingly. ATB, Steve

[@bluewater7211]

I'm testing on how long I can get mine to run in my rv off grid currently and it's now hopefully going to last longer with it running at a minimum

[@bluewater7211]

In the second week I used it 24 /7 at 1.0hz keeping it at 20c and 4000rpm Setting 1 and fp 4= it ended up using 20lt of diesel. As apposed to the first week running it as I would have a furnace on .. 24/ 7 and 20c it burned through 30lt and was not running correctly, as in on then off again to regulate the temperature, so would kill the battery faster. So now it's partially through the third week and I dropped it to .8hz so we can see in a few days what it's doing. So far I've noticed a little smoke from the exhaust at tge lowest Setting but it's still Bruning through the fule like at a higher Setting. So so far .8hz is not as good. 1 and higher seems to be a cleaner burn and system.

[@raykeogh1972]

Hi sorry to bother you again I am still having trouble setting the out board fuel tank to my diesel heater, is there any wording on your Yamaha pipes or quick release catch so I can try and order what you have? If it does not work even if I get the same as you I will just have to look at another way. I know you told me they came with your tank but there must be a size or some clue on them, I am using a 1/4 of the tank that came with heater and it leaks badly if I set it up like it’s supposed to lol thanks . Ray K YNWA.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Ray, These are the quick connector and fuel line links. www.bottomlinemarine.com/prod_cat/P_attwood-fuel-quick-connect-for-omc--johnson--evinrude-hose-fitting---8889lp6_3723.shtml www.bottomlinemarine.com/prod_cat/P_marine-fuel-hose--14-6mm--outboard--mercruiser--diesel--petrol--lloyds_7499.shtml But call them to confirm. They are very helpful. Good luck, hope this helps. ATB, Steve

[@martinmorgan8475]

Hello I have the blue type controller, mines gos up to 5.5 hertz which I find isn't hot enough are you saying you can increase the hertz to 8 hertz, is the higher the hertz the hotter the air. Thanks

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Martin, Higher hertz = faster pump rate = more fuel into the burner. This, in turn, should give hotter air. Normally 5.5Hz is plenty hot enough though..!!

[@31144]

Has anyone got the wiring diagram for this controller or a link to it, I need to know what the blue, red and black wire control ? As Iam trying to retro fit this controller to a Webasto Airtop 2000

[@A_Man_In_His_Van]

It's a typical 5v reference like a car, Black is ground, red is 5 volts, and blue is signal.

[@michelmarchand2291]

Anyone knows the detail about the air intake for combustion and the fan speed? From what I see the fan speed is for hot air circulation and the combustion takes its air from the intake below the unit. I suppose the air intake has it's own mini fan driven by the main fan?

[@fenceup07944931177]

I believe both intake fans are on one cleverly designed unit, driven by one motor. So you can't change fan speeds independently.

[@JohnSmith-pu6fy]

What about turning up the fane speed? If I turn up fan speed will I have to change the fuel amount?

[@leejones9827]

Don't do this without a flue meter.

[@snowboarder753]

Yours looks the same as mine the Ariel symbol is that for Bluetooth app ? I have been trying to pair it with the parking electric app, with no joy have you tried this I am not sure which button is the reset button

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi There's no bluetooth mode on these type of controllers. I think that symbol you refer to is for the pairing when adding the remote control..?

[@davegcffo]

anybody know if there is a way to keep the the display light on mine is annoying and auto dims after about 30 secs Thanks

[@garyreed354]

1&2 is double your fan speed

[@Nerd3927]

I run the low rpm at 1550 at 1.4Hz to prevent soot build up.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Interesting... I recently stripped this heater down after 1500hrs running time and was very pleased by the lack of sooting up. I run on default settings and temperature of 22degsC. However, I also use a diesel fuel additive and I'm convinced that is the reason it managed to keep so clean.....👍

[@Nerd3927]

@@TheWrinklyNomads yes, I run it on 20% hvo. Normal road diesel with FAME was a disaster!

[@karoliskarolis6036]

Hello, or your controller display all the time is on? Because my one is on all the time and i dont know, or should be like that or no

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

Definitely wire in a switch to avoid unnecessary drain on the battery, unless you need to use the automatic timer on feature. I measured 83mA drain, which would be okay only if you drive it regularly.

[@PoulJanPetersen]

Hi, What do you recommend I shall do to overcome error 03?

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Error 03 is an ignition fault. Might be a broken plug or short circuit. ATB, Steve

[@Gunter8571]

Is it for the 5kw

[@philip.aocallaghan4602]

When my heater is running and the temp is set. the fan speed is very low, So low that it's not heating well. because the fan is blowing too slow. can I increase the fan speed without increasing diesel and having to increase the temperature ..if that makes sense? thank you

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Phillip, The air temperature has been reached therefore the hot air out will be at a minimum, as both fan and fuel are reduced. To increase fan speed only, would require changes in the advanced menu settings, and that will alter the air/fuel mixture giving a poor burn. Think I would just tweak the temperature up on the controller if you want the fan to run more and give you more heat.. ATB, Steve

[@PCFM100]

My heater works ok but the display doesn’t light up, can you advise me on this problem, is there a brightness setting or something like that

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Greg, Yes Ive that a lot. Mine is slightly fading now as well. I dont know of any brightness setting either? Fortunately a new replacement is every cheap and easy to fit..! ATB, Steve

[@PCFM100]

@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks Steve....looks like a new one is needed, this one didnt last long at all

[@michaelroberts6299]

Have set the hertz setting to low .8 but the heater wont go that low ,u can set it but it wont do it

[@Brian-ausie]

same

[@Nefariousrouge]

Hertz setting likely increases/decreases the temperature, as the burn of the heater is controlled by the input fuel rate.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Yes, the higher the Hertz the more fuel & fan speed. It gives a hotter air temperature. Also, higher hertz = higher fuel consumption. I tend to run mind in 3.5Hz and fid that the best for me as it it also nice n quiet..! ATB, Steve

[@robton007]

Many thanks for this, great help, I want to get the diesel amount to as low as possible, anyone know how???

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Rob You can set the pump rate to lowest be using the Hz setting on the controller. This will give minimum fuel / air delivery to the burner and less fuel use. Once the burner has gone though it’s startup cycle it will then throttle down to a tick over. I have a video on changing degC to Hz here: How To Change Pulse Rate P Setting To Temperature In Degrees on Chinese Diesel Heater LED Controller kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmKkqaioe51-n6M Hope this helps Steve

[@dariusz2303]

👍👍👍👍

[@clintbowley4049]

Hi . I have a problem with the timer. Everything else is perfect. When you set the time ON, there is no time OFF function . it just goes straight to time No2 . very frustrating . Please can you help Clint.

[@AZdirtdog]

If you set while heater is off it turns on with first timer second timer is how long. It ramps up full speed then lowers to last fan speed

[@georgeharris7856]

HI. Great video thanks. Anyone figure out how to pair the remote? Cheers, George

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi George There are lots videos on KZbin showing how to do that exact thing 👍

[@kenmillican18]

Anyone know why heater blows smoke on startup

[@Haytabike]

Can we do factory reset to this control panel?

[@Haytabike]

My heater not working

[@filipe8559]

i installed a 2 kw version in my camper. on the controller i do not see the red arrow indicating the exhaust fumes are going out. it also does not reach two red bars indicating full power. exhaust fumes are ok, smells bad. heating is ok inside, does not flame out. does anyone have an idea? thanks

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Sounds like a installation problem to me. Is anything blocked? Especially the exhaust pipe, or too sharp an exhaust bend causing back pressure? They normally run pretty sweet straight out of the box. Not reaching full temperature is normally a fuel/air issue.

[@styubru6086]

Hi my controller won't drive my heater anymore..if I good on button down for three seconds..it doesn't come on..then sometimes it come on..but then turns off completely..any suggestions.please.?

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Styu, You should get an error code in the display when the ECU detects a fault with the unit. This will tell you whats gone wrong. Steve

[@tomsonpolska]

hello, how do i turn on the ventilation mode? Only airing without hot can you?

[@ChillingLu]

Hey I’m also interested to know that answer :) If you find out, kindly let me know :-) Thanks in advance!

[@allanwhite4011]

1688 didn't work for me, on another forum someone suggested 9009 and that worked.

[@strikemaster1]

I have the 5kw unit which is fine but draws a lot of power initially which is a strain on my battery... so is there a way to "throttle down" a 5kw to approximately the same input as the 2 or 3kw unit? From memory the 2.4kw diesel heater draws about 38 watts as opposed to the 5kw using 90 watts. Will reducing the pulse reduse the power draw?

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

I find these units very efficient, but you can't throttle down their output with effecting over parameters. Plus, I wouldn't fiddle with that side of it really!. 5KW draws about 12amps with the glow plug on and fan at full speed. After a couple of minutes the glow plugs goes off and the amps drop to about 4amps with the fan still at full speed. When the fan speed slows down after reaching temperature you should be pulling only 2-3amps max. On minimum, tickover temperature its very efficient using maybe 1/2 amp only.... hope this helps ATB, Steve

[@CM-1723]

I read somewhere on one of eBay adverts you can use this just as a cool air blower , so just blower without the heater kicking in . Have you worked this out ?

[@shannonkimber710]

I just bought one and it appears to just blow cool air..I havn't work out if I need to adjust RPMs etc to feel warmer air...

[@pierregroot975]

What is p005 in display

[@barrymeomartini1214]

Iv ran out of desil and mine will not pump any ids

[@mikebruin8645]

Tried changing from flow to degree Celsius with up arrow and setting button? Won’t work???

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

That's strange Mike?? If it's the same type of controller it should definitely work? Afraid I'm not sure what's happening there.... ATB, Steve

[@Threeonetwo188]

The bars and the y symbols.. What does the mean thank you

[@coreyosman6487]

So the voltage setting would allow to run directly from my 24 V battery setup? This would be ideal so I no longer have to purchase a 24-12 converter. Where did you find all these instructions about the heater controls? Mine came with nothing.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Corey, Yes, that's correct. Just change the setting to 24V and your good to go. Mine came with some brief instructions only, so it was a case of searching the internet for me.... Steve

[@ProblematicTube]

I use the 24v setting. The issue is the glow plug and fan needed to be changed because they are 12v. Changed them and so far so good.

[@coreyosman977]

@@ProblematicTube I think the fuel pump would also need to be changed looking at replacement parts. They list 12v and 24v fuel pumps (aliexpress). Guessing this is just a versatile unit with interchangeable parts.

[@ProblematicTube]

@@coreyosman977 I think we only had to change GP & fan but my better half may have changed it without me realising. The parts were easy & cheap to replace which is another + about these heaters.

[@ProblematicTube]

Forgot to say before although I got an instruction book, this code wasn't in it. This code has allowed me to really knock back the pump on its overall setting because to begin with we were going through a LOT of fuel using the factory settings. (I was worried it was because it was 24v this was going to use more fuel, however now seems to be much better and I can reach the lower temps which were not even an option before).

[@brnsmit]

When changing to 12v it keeps going back to 24v when turned off

[@wishfix]

Trying to set my controller up, the time does not come up, my main screen says P12v, I need to prime but when I press the OK and down I get something different to h OF. any ideas? I've tried resetting by taking fuse out and re powering up.

[@wishfix]

Any help would be much appreciated, thank you.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Sorry for late reply.. That's a new on me? All of these controllers are pretty much the same and so is the setup. It's possible you may just have a duff controller? There cheap of Ebay so I would say try that first. Sorry I couldn't be more specific... ATB, Steve

[@wishfix]

@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks for your help, I'm ordering another complete unit, cold weather is coming and I intend to live in my van so it's gotta be 100% 😁

[@davidconner-shover51]

is same, press up button to start the priming process

[@MTECH909]

I press settings button 3 times or a hundred times and it doesn't go into the settings. But I can change from 1-6 and Celsius. Thanks in advance

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Not too sure what's happening there..? From various other replies that I've had, these controllers sometimes seem to have a mind of their own..!!!! Sorry I can't be more helpful..

[@caerbanoginterrupted1833]

Changing the fan to 5000 RPM so I can plug the fan port into my house's ducting and heat our home.

[@thomasogilvie4990]

Steve, I can't get my Jackery 1000 to stay on more than about 5 seconds before it cuts off on start up. You say heater pulls around 12 amps on start up, and the Jackery kicks out at 10 amps. Can I lower the fan speed on startup until the glo plug turns off? How do I do that? I don't understand this problem, as I have seen several videos of these heaters on a Jackery 500. Help!

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Thomas, Seems a lot of people get problems running these heaters from a power pack...? When the heater starts up there's quite a surge and I think it causes them to cut out due to over sensitive.? I have never really experimented with them so not all that knowledgeable I'm afraid... ATB, Steve

[@aemravan]

im seeing the same issue on multiple packs as well. My current plan was to purchase a 12v, 15 amp power block from amazon to run from the 110v output of the battery packs in order to give it the extra buffer during start up and shut down. Its not delivering until later today so I can't say for sure it will solve the issue but I dont' see why it wouldn't. Only downside is an added piece of the puzzle as well, I'm sure, reduced efficiency for how much battery life you'll get out of the pack. I don't think changing any of the settings will impact this behavior.

[@homeworldchinese3931]

my heater start up about 200W MAX ，do you find how to start heater normaly

[@Rickydbaby]

Any way to set presets if you travel to different altitudes often?

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Rick, I believe that this is a setting to accommodate higher altitude in the advanced menu. However, I've had no dealings with it as never needed it... Essentially it involves altering the fuel/air ratios to compensate, but just how, I'm afraid I don't know. ATB, Steve

[@NewLife-qj9mx]

Alpine mode - press n hold both left buttons till you see the coors lite mountains 😏

[@grahamhambleton8375]

Hello there. With the diesel storage tank be inside of the living space is there any smell of diesel. ? Just wondering if the pump is sucking the diesel from the tank then air has to be entering the tank to prevent suction happening. Cheers Graham

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Graham, There is no smell whatsoever. The fill cap has a one way valve on it, allowing air in, but preventing any smells from getting out. This also prevents a vacuum form in the tank as the level decreases, Works well. ATB, Steve

[@davidfaulkner6008]

I have one additional setting before it exits.... "PF" with a range of 1 to 6......what is that for and what should it be please

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi David, PF in the secret menu gives you adjustment of what wattage that you want to supply the glow plug. 1 being the lowest to 6 the highest. Default is 5 (I think) Essentially it will warm up longer or shorter depending on what you set it. Not really worth fiddling with though....

[@davidfaulkner6008]

thank you

[@lioncrunch]

There’s a video on here, how to brighten the display, I don’t have the link.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

They have not really solved that problem...! Only thing to do that will prolong the display life is to add a power on/off switch and have the whole unit off while not in use.....

[@danbray3960]

Hello there, my heater gives off a funny smell when at its hottest, it's not exhaust, do I need to adjust the setting perhaps

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Dan, When you first run from new you get some odd smells but they burn off and go quite quickly. Assuming it is installed correctly these heater will run very efficiently and cleanly producing no noticeable smells. If I were you, I would take the outer top case off and have a look around the heat exchanger casing incase a wire or something has come adrift during transit and is touch the hot metal. Also check if there's any noise coming from the inlet fan, as this may be rubbing against the plastic body causing a smell. Does the smell get worse when on full power, how long does it last and what sort of smell is it? ATB, Steve

[@danbray3960]

@@TheWrinklyNomads thanks for your reply, I have run it for long enough now to burn off any smell. The smell comes when the heater is on full bringing up the temp, then goes when it reduces to maintain heat. It's as if it's getting to hot. Yesterday after watching your vid i reduced the max pulse rate to 4hz and it seems to have solved the issue.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Dan, The maximum pulse rate seems to be set the same for all the different kw sized burners by default, so it could well of been that may well be causing the smell?? Glad it's sorted now. ATB, Steve

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

@@TheWrinklyNomads by no noticeable smells, do you mean from the combustion exhaust or the interior heated air? Start up and shut down usually has a lot of odors from incomplete combustion.

[@MrJdekkers]

How can you go out of the advanced settings ? I just orderd a heater 😉

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi, Just keep scrolling through pushing the ok button and the controller will return back to the time. Hope that helps. ATB, Steve

[@colincooper2177]

Could you tell me how to prime the pump, ive lost my instruction manual

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

Hi Colin. On my controller it’s quite easy to do, some are different, but I think this is the universal way: If you press OK & down, then display shows H off. Press up and pump will start to pump fuel. Press down and pump will stop Hope this helps. ATB, Steve

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

Disconnect the line connecting to the fuel inlet if you can, and hold it straight up as you do the priming, that allows the air to get purged much quicker and without injecting fuel into the unit during the process. Once you see the fuel line is full, you can reconnect and finish up the bleeding process for the remaining bit of air.

[@Hammerjockeyrepair]

My settings button doesn’t do anything apparently. Same looking controller with subtle display differences.

[@TheWrinklyNomads]

It should do? That button is pretty universal across all the different controllers. Maybe a dodgy unit??

[@davehimlin2374]

@@TheWrinklyNomads I think newer units have a newer controller that doesnt allow much user modifications on settings.

[@sharednotions8202]

My heater has a "PF" advanced settiing with range 1-6. Anyone figure out what it is ?

[@patrykcalus]

Same here. Somebody something ? :)

[@davidconner-shover51]

I dunno, this setting doesn't appear in either the manual or the video but it does appear on my controller my best bet is to play with it (starting from the extreme end, 1) and see how it behaves

[@berko79]

@@davidconner-shover51 ​ @Patryk Całus PF is the glow plug wattage: 35w through to 90w i think. I think most 5kw are set to 5 or 6. I'll be doing a vid on this on my channel soon.