Loading .357 SIG for the Glock 20

[@blalolblalol]

He's very meticulous when prepping cases, setting up dies, uses premium components, premium bullets, doubles and triple checks everything, with the utmost attention, care, and precision; aaannnndddd theennnnn.... randomly shoots some snow.... Gotta love Gavin.

[@csxconductor100]

9x25 dillon is a necked down 10mm. 357 sig is also a shortened 10mm and necked down.

[@MrIdasam]

I love this caliber. I just started reloading it, so far so good.

[@alexclarke373]

I reload 357sig and haven’t had any issues with it, even though I was warned heavily against it. I’ve reloaded my starline brass literally 20+ times and they’re still going. I did get 1 bag of Winchester brass with very loose primer pockets though from brand new. A lot of people reload that have no idea what they’re doing and/or don’t pay attention. Follow the instructions for your dies and crimp the neck correctly, u won’t have any issues. It always feeds through the press and the gun beautifully. It’s fun to shoot and has a very high pressure rating if u want to pump it up 👌🏻

[@blacklight6200]

What crimp die do you use and do you see or feel anything from it on a pulled bullet? I'm having bullet setback that I cannot figure out and I have had zero issues with any of my other calibers I reload. It's really bumming me out since it's by far my favorite caliber.

[@alexclarke373]

@@blacklight6200 I use dillon dies in an XL750. Check your sizing die is bumping the shoulder back nice and square. Make sure you don’t flare the case any more than you need to. Only Lightly de-burr and only flare enough to reliably seat the proji without galling it. I use mostly demon .357 158grain semi wad cutters resized to .356 for playing (and these have a cannelure that doesn’t line up with the case neck and I still get away with it no issues lol) or Speer gold dot 147grain .356 I’ve never pulled one tbh, but I’ve tried racking the same round many many times and measure the OAL with no problems. If you’re still struggling with set back, try some 5050 RBSA-B powder as you can fill the case with a stout charge safely. I hope that helps you mate.

[@n300zx931]

Love the .357sig round in the Glock 32 gen4 as my EDC. What a great combo.

[@Ultimatereloader]

Nice!

[@Viziry]

smart

[@aliman3229]

My EDC combo too. 👍🏻

[@Bxwaveprince]

G32 SQUAAAAAAD!

[@andyamysarizonaadventures5450]

I loved my g32 more than any hand gun ever! Serious punch near & far.After a few magazines I been having a failure to feed with under wood gold dot and v crown hp..none with Winchester white box full metal jackets.It seems being necked the next round coming up isn't fully pushing the nose up 🙄 really sucks So I got a 40 berral no problem.I wish it worked I even tried my Glock 22 magazines same thing.My 33 works great don't understand this.

[@markmadsen6828]

Very nice video.. Thank you. I absolutely love both the 10mm and the 357 Sig. very versatile cartridges for hand loading..

[@mefirst5427]

It is interesting modern pistol ballistics is loving the bottle neck again, 30 Luger and 30 Mauser discovered those advantages long time ago.

[@chipsterb4946]

.357 Sig is a tricky cartridge to reload. There’s a significant risk of bullet setback in the magazine because of the very short neck contact area with the bullet. Compressed loads can produce WAY more pressure than you want, depending on the powder. Lots of guys recommend AA #7 because it fills the case but doesn’t misbehave with the bullet contacting the powder. Getting the crimp right is more important than ever. As someone points out below, the cartridge headspaces on the case mouth just like any other pistol cartridge despite the presence of a shoulder. Another point to consider is that you need to expand the case mouth BEFORE charging with powder. No powder-thru expander here. The reason is the short neck - an expander die will touch the powder charge and that can lead to BAD THINGS. I learned this the hard way with my only brown-pants moment in shooting reloads. The expander die was picking up powder from some cases and transferring it to others. 1,600 FPS is scary.

[@KurtOnoIR]

Any idea of how many firings I should be getting out of my brass? I've been reloading 357sig for a long time now and this last go round has been rough. I cant seem to get the crimp right or there's something wrong with the brass. No matter how tight I crimp I can still push the bullet back into the brass with my thumb. Even if I heavily deform the bullet and squash the shoulder with crimp way too tight they will still push in. Can't figure out what happened, I've measured everything to no end. The only thing I've changed is I've started to tumble clean with media rather than solution. Running out of brass so I don't want to mess any more up until I figure it out. The only thing I can think of is that I've either messed up in case cleaning/prep or the brass is only lasting 2-3 firings and thats all I should expect?

[@chipsterb4946]

@@KurtOnoIR huh. Most handgun brass basically lasts until you lose it. However, bottle necked rifle brass might last 4-7 loads, depending on the cartridge, headspace in your rifle etc. Have you measured actual bullet diameter? Have you measured the inside diameter of the case necks before and after sizing? Maybe changing cleaning procedures is leaving more residue inside the case neck… Sometimes rifle handloaders turn the sizing die expander ball, taking off only the tiniest amount of material to increase neck tension. What sizing die? Crimp? Expander die? I mentioned that many guys use AA #7 or a couple other powders that completely fill the case. You have to be extremely careful with compressed loads though.

[@KurtOnoIR]

@@chipsterb4946 yep, bullets are the the same as always, from the same box in some cases but its happening with every bullet ive tried so far. Neck I.d. and brass thickness at the neck hasn't changed. I think I might try like you said to turn the expander in the neck. Maybe there's something in this case polish that I'm tumbling with thats causing this. It's really the only thing I've changed in 5yrs. Sizing dies are hornady and I normally use hornady seat/crimp die and now tried Lee factory crimp die. I have some good handloads left from before I started having trouble, If cleaning the case neck doesn't work then maybe I'll pull a couple good rounds apart and see if I can figure it out. Thanks.

[@chipsterb4946]

@@KurtOnoIR Hornady dies are fine. When I said “turn” the expander ball, I meant taking a tiny bit of diameter off using a lathe. (Just in case that wasn’t clear)

[@KurtOnoIR]

@@chipsterb4946 ah I got it, I was thinking you meant literally turn it to rub anything off the inside of the caseneck lol. I was trying to figure out how one would do that! That makes sense now. I actually think I figured it out tho, like you said measuring before and after sizing and comparing to previous rounds.. Looks like for some reason my necks aren't getting sized quite right all the way down to the shoulder unless I cam-over really hard on the press. I dont recall having to go that hard before. Not noticeable unless I measure right next to the shoulder, never a problem chambering by hand. Not sure why the change, its a lock and load ap press so I just take my dies out with bushings installed and put them away. I dont know if that last little bit will make the difference but I'm going to set up to find out this afternoon. Looks promising tho.

[@jimquinlan5000]

I HAVE A LEE SINGLE STAGE PRESS...TAKES ME LONGER..BUT I STILL LOVE TO RE-LOAD THE .357 SIG OR .40 SW ALL FOR MY GLOCK 20..THANKS FOR THE VIDEO...ME THINKS THE 147 GR IWIL BE MY FAVORITE. GOOD JOB!

[@projectredbeard2199]

I have a sig pro sp2022 in 357sig its one of my all time favorites. Keep it on my oh shit kit

[@brianhall137]

I use the following die lineup when I reload 357Sig on my Hornady LnL AP: Station 1: Redding .40S&W Titanium Carbide sizing/decapping die (This eliminates the need to use case lube) Station 2: Hornady 357Sig Sizing/Decapping Die w/ decapping pin removed (very important or you'll removed the primer you just installed.) This forms the shoulder of the case. Station 3: Powder drop and PTX to flare the case mouth. Station 4: Hornady Bullet Seating Die Station 5: Lee Factory Crimp Die Other than 9mm, 357Sig is the least expensive caliber for me to reload...same bullets, once-fired brass, and just a little more powder is all that's different. The cost savings alone over factory ammo (outrageous prices) is a good enough reason to reload it. I even load cast lead and it chrono's at 1390fps with no leading. My cast lead supplier retired and I'm on the lookout for that same bullet profile elsewhere.

[@overtheradar]

I've been reloading 357sig for a dozen years now. Started out with the Lee dies like you used but came up with unreliable ammo. Had lots of cycling problems with both a Sig 226ST and a Springfield XD service size pistol. Also had four to five broken decapping pins out of every one hundred rounds using range pickup Speer 357sig brass. Spent a lot of time trying to come up with solutions to solve these problems and finally switched to the very expensive Dillon 357sig dies. All my problems disappeared. I'm not condemning all Lee dies, just the 357sig. YMMV. I load 125-grain JHP with 8.8 grains of VV N350 for an average of 1416 fps out of a Springfield service length XD. For IDPA competition I load a 147-grain black moly FP with 4.1 grains of Ramshot Zip to get an average of 868 fps. When I first started shooting IDPA I was using factory 357sig ammo and by the sixth stage the gun was nearly jumping out of my hand plus the wrap around effect of the muzzle blast was not making friends of the Safety Officers and Scorekeepers. It's a fun cartridge to shoot and isn't any more difficult to load than 9 or 45 once you get the setup dialed in.

[@silentbob267]

Do you have to worry about trimming cases with .357 Sig? I've tried asking around and can't seem to get a solid yes or no from anyone.

[@overtheradar]

I've never had to trim a piece of previously fired 357 Sig brass. I only use 357 Sig brass and I never try to resize 40 S&W brass to use as 357 Sig.

[@silentbob267]

Awesome, I don't like trimming cases if I can avoid it. I shot a friends .357 Sig and really liked it but didn't want to get one if it was going to be a pain to reload for it. I may have to keep my eye out for one now though. Thanks for the help and the quick reply.

[@charlesdarwin1467]

Craig Arnold yes u do have to trim them

[@reedlrrp]

I toss Speer brass along with Selliers&Belloit

[@hk93shooter]

some tricks to loading that little bottle neck. first use a 40 cal die to 'body size' then load it..no lube needed. makes for easer loading on progressive presses. pick a powder that fills the case fully to the bottom of the bullet to prevent set back. a lee factory crimp is a must.blue dot/ power pistol/longshot are my go to powers. set back is common due to the small neck and surface of the bullet. and pick a bullet with a long bearing surface. most 9mm luger bullets have a tapered nose, i use hornady XTP or RMR 125 hp's. good video, i love that little round. what a great way to punch holes in 12 ga steel.

[@jamesweaver4021]

One of my early gun purchases about 14 years ago was a 357 sig. i loved the gun but the ammo was expensive so I never shoot it...until now. I reload now and picked up 1k range brass for the price of a box of 50 rounds. I’ve only reloaded 40 rounds and still dialing in what I want. Had a few keyholes but I’m only midrange on the charge so far. Good vid👍

[@patrickslevin6424]

I've been sizing my .357 SIG on a Redding T-Turrett press and 40 S&W dies before setting the .357 SIG dies up on my Hornady LNL.

[@tomb4568]

357SIG my EDC! A very mis-understood round!

[@poorboyballistics1391]

I neck down .40 cases... works great.. load 124 gr lrn. chronographed around 1450-1460fps... love it.

[@Ultimatereloader]

That's some 'Poor Boy Ballistics' in action, nice!

[@mrsquishyboots]

Get some

[@seventy18]

I need to buy the 357 sig barrel for my glock 22.

[@Chris-tw4jm]

Those look like they shoot super nice!

[@gunslinger3090]

good video. i have been loading 357 sig for my 229 since 1994, & now for 224,xdm,h&k & 239. a very good cartridge, remind me of my 38 super. only negative is i seen people with factory glock barrels not after market barrels blowup due to not a fully supported chamber. i don't shoot glocks but everything else. plus cheaper to load than 45acp or 40s&w. thanks

[@harrycallahan692]

I use the actual barrel to check final size. I have found that those Wilson case gages sometimes will clear the round but the barrel will not.

[@G19Jeeper]

Interesting, sounds like a throat dimension issue? Or at least difference.

[@harrycallahan692]

@@G19Jeeper I had an incident years ago where a round fit in the Wilson gauge but got jammed in my 1911 chamber. So yes....some barrels especially match grade barrels have very tight tolerances. Trust me when I say it was no fun dissembling a pistol with a live round jammed in the chamber!

[@mickwells9431]

Great video on reloading the .357sig round. I love this caliber and have several pistols I shoot it in. I'm not set up to reload but it something I am interested in getting into. Thanks for showing the process of reloading this ultimate 9mm round. I'm curious, do you load your ammo to the original formulation or do you step it down like nearly all manufacturers do today? It seems Underwood and Buffalo Bore are the only manufacturers to offer the 1450 fps for the 125gr bullet. The 147gr in the 357sig is my preference to carry since it actually sends it out the barrel at a speed to get expansion more reliably. Thanks for your informative video.

[@jamesoncross7494]

Great video. You made that look easy. I've heard the .357 sig is tricky to reload. It's a great round for sure.

[@Ultimatereloader]

Thanks, I think it just comes down to having the right dies, I read up quite a bit on that before going with the LEE die set!

[@MrSixstringthing]

you should try 40 Super, Sigs 357 is it's baby. I converted my Glock 30 to 40 Super with a KKM barrel and 23lb guide rod/spring. The 40 super is a necked down 45 to 40 and is moving at 1900 fpt 938 ftlbs of energy transfer. Honestly, it shoots like a hot 9mm with the KKM compensator

[@wadestarnes130]

Thanks again for your time

[@ralphcooper6985]

I know this is old ish video but.....you just have to love the gen3 20 so many conversions even 9mm single stack mag works best. Hope polymer 80 comes out with a large frame soon:)

[@scarter176]

Thanks Gavin, as always straight forward techniques that work

[@rodneylane634]

The 30 Luger was a bottle neck pistol round a long time ago. Check it out. Great video BTW.

[@Ouwkackemann]

No 40S&W sizing die first? I´ve heard you should use a 40 sizing die first to ease up the process.

[@quickdubbs328]

Loving Glock's, more and more!

[@Ultimatereloader]

Yes, hard to fault the "system"! Grip angle works for me :)

[@artifacthunter1472]

When you shoot 357 Sigg out of a Glock 20 you can change the overall length of your projectile to be as long as the 10 mm and they work and chamber better with room for more powder!

[@rangersmith4652]

I've taken a nearly seven-year hiatus from reloading due to work obligations and space limitations, but I'll soon be able to get back to it. I loaded a few dozen .357 Sig back then and found it to be somewhat trickier than other pistol cartridges, but quite doable. I've got all the components to load a couple hundred, but I'll probably start with something easier, say, .38 Special. BTW, I use a Storm Lake .357 Sig barrel in my Glock 22, and it works flawlessly. I also have a Model 33. Are you using .40 S&W mags for .357 Sig rounds? Thanks for the inspiration. Subscribed!

[@Ultimatereloader]

Good deal, glad you are "back in action" 357 SIG is good stuff!

[@racker7855]

nice...did you dig in the snow to retrieve those precious 357 sig cases? ha...love the channel...

[@Ultimatereloader]

Haha. I'll get those in Spring! :)

[@sigal5265]

Sounds good. Thanks again.

[@dante_gonal]

I think the 357 sig is the best caliber for armies and navies and some special police forces

[@stuartgrimm6048]

If you like bottle necked pistol cartridges you should try the 22 TCM. 2,800 fps of velocity goodness!

[@Ultimatereloader]

Looks pretty impressive, and it looks like RIA has a nice series of 1911 pistols in 22 TCM...

[@LHG921]

awesome video! subscribed! liked!

[@phi376]

Crimping question: Any issues with the Lee FCD over the last 3 years with the .357 Sig? I have the Redding Taper Crimp die, but I have not used it. I have several Lee FCD for rifle cartridges that I have used and like. Thanks in advance for the advice.

[@TheDiamonddave2]

Gavin, how would you compare the 357 sig to the 9x25 Dillon? Worth getting the extra barrel?

[@KurtOnoIR]

Hey boss, I'm having a strange problem all of a sudden. I've loaded 357sig for maybe 5yrs now, no problems. This last time around im having big trouble with neck tension/crimp. Its absolutely embarrassing and I can't seem to figure out what happened. I'm getting bullet setback now matter how tight I seem to crimp. I'm deforming bullets with crimp that should be way too tight and I can still press a bullet into the brass with my thumb, a good push but still its a problem. Is it possible that my brass is worn out? I dont move my dies, hornady lock and load ap, tried a lee factory crimp die. The only thing I have changed after 5 yrs is I got a new tumbler for cleaning brass, my first tumbler. Ive had to just stop for now until I figure this out because I'm down to less than 500 pieces of brass. Of course when I can find it the ammo is expensive and no carry ammo on the shelf lately. The only thing going against the bad brass theory is that some pieces have only 2 firings on them, most are 3-4 firings. Any ideas from anyone would be appreciated. Ive measured everything up the wazoo BTW. Is it possible im doing something wrong with brass prep/tumbler?

[@Greenmachine305]

Good stuff.

[@sigal5265]

Great video! I'm in the process of loading my first batch of .357 SIG. Have you had any issues with neck tension and bullet seat back? That appears to be the only thing that may cause concern. I like appying a mild taper crimp to all of my semi auto reloads. Thanks and keep up the great work.

[@Ultimatereloader]

Sig Al- that's why I went with the LEE die set with Factory Crimp Die- I did a bunch of research, and they seem best for the neck tension situation with 357 SIG and 400 Corbon (working on that story!)

[@sigal5265]

Thanks for getting back to you! So happy to see your reply. I just bought my Hornady set a month ago. I might just get the Lee factory crimp die and only use the Hornady Seater/Taper crimp die as a Seater. What do you think? Thanks again.

[@Ultimatereloader]

Great approach, yes, just get the LEE FCD and you should be doing good!

[@missouribattleflag328]

Excellent info great content thank you

[@G19Jeeper]

If you think that’s interesting, look up the 9mm Dillon (9x23). It’s badass looking. The .429 DE intrigued me too

[@chaimafaghet7343]

*9x25

[@G19Jeeper]

@@chaimafaghet7343 yessir, you’re right. Must’ve had a brain fart lol

[@jmartin9059]

*WHY WOULD YOU NOT use 9x25 Dillon, in that size frame and slide ?*

[@artkarydez8258]

Just got a case of double tap 9×25 Dillon. and a 7in. Barsto barrel for my G20.... , dont have much use for my 10in. 357sig barrel now.

[@MinimalistMotoLife]

You can always rechamber the 10" to 9x25 too or the wildcat 357 Sig long/mag which is the full 25mm case but unlike Dillon you use the more common Sig reamer ran deeper and reloading dies backed out which is an advantage for reloaded but disadvantage for those that buy factory ammo. Did you ever run any loads from that 357 sig barrel over a chronograph that you care to share the FPS on? I am building an 8.3" AR platform and it's not easy to find reports of what others are getting from barrels longer than 5.5"

[@DerekRC]

Is that a Lee factory crimp die? Also have you experienced flash holes being to small and needed to be drilled out? Heard this is a issue.

[@samdunlap5365]

When it firs came out they used a 125grain .3555 diameter projectile.355 were not recommended, as it must now be acceptable.i spoke with 1 company and they stated that they form all their 9mm at .3555 but not sure.i have had issues with setback chambering when using 9mm .355.but I can n longer find .3555 diameter projectiles

[@mr.debusey774]

Thanks , great ,very informative, video

[@geneellis217]

Enjoyed your video the best so far. I just screwed up got a bad conversion barrel for my mod. 27 40 cal. and so I just ordered the full size 357 and I should have gotten another version barrel and could have saved 500 plus plus by shooting out of my 27 mod. You solve the problems they talk about in the other reloading videos by using one time fired brass and I do not have access to other peoples brass. so...great video thanks.

[@Ultimatereloader]

Gene- super-glad this was helpful. Not sure why, but i'm enamored with the 357 SIG- esp. when I can play with it by means of simple barrel swap! :)

[@geneellis217]

You have a nice presentation ...I wonder that in the comments they asked about the Dillion i.e. what does Dillion have too offer re the reloading the 357 if you know? Gene

[@silentbob267]

Do you have to worry about trimming the cases with .357 Sig like you do on other bottleneck rifle cartridges?

[@sdvten]

I never trim cases with mine. The brass is worked very little when fired.

[@silentbob267]

Thanks!

[@paulvenn4447]

7.62 Tokarev is also a fun bottlenecker :)

[@Ultimatereloader]

Looks interesting!

[@texasbradley]

I have some 124 GR .356 GR berry's plated hybrids, can you load .356 with no issues?

[@Obelisk57]

10mm uses large pistol primer, .40SW uses small pistol primer. Not sure forming .357sig from either makes any difference.

[@hauldrdx]

what bullet are you loading? I have tried for weeks to perfect a 357 sig load and can get 0 neck tension on my rounds. using barrys 124 gr. 357 bullets and xtreme 124 gr round nose. I load 9mm, 40 sw, 762x25 with no problem. HELP

[@Omar-if1cu]

They don’t make 357 sig conversion barrels for the glock 20 anymore, im not sure why. Anybody out there willing to sell theirs??

[@mountainbob8695]

Look up remsport. They are currently making one. I just received mine, it seems good quality.

[@Omar-if1cu]

Mountain Bob Wow Thanks man really appreciate that, will definitely look into this, thought these things really went extinct

[@jamessomethingorother9018]

Hey Gavin, I am about to start reloading 357 sig. I was glad to see you did a video covering the cartridge. While doing my research I have seen many say the cartridge spaces off the shoulder and many say the case mouth. When reading through my Spear Reloading manual (#13) it stated the cartridge head spaces off the case mouth. I also checked with CIP and SAAMI (links below). Both specify the case mouth. Have you found other authoritative references that instead specify the shoulder? www.saami.org/PubResources/_CC_Drawings/Pistol/357%20Sig.pdf www.cip-bobp.org/homologation/uploads/tdcc/tab-iv/tabivcal-en-page53.pdf

[@jamessomethingorother9018]

I just received the Lyman 50th edition Reloading Manual. It also states that the cartridge headspaces off the case mouth. The manual highlights the importance of using brass of proper length and properly taper crimping instead of roll crimping due to how the cartridge headspaces.

[@blacklight6200]

I've been having problems with bullet setback. I was using Dillon crimp but just switched to Lee's fcd. I'm still having that issue. I've tried barely putting a crimp on to completely deforming the bullet and nothing stops the setback. The only bullets that don't setback are polymer coated bullets. All jacketed and plated move. Also while I was still using the Dillon crimp I tried 13 grains of acc#9 which is a compressed load. The bullet didn't set back but instead was coming out. Ever chamber the cartridge was getting longer and I would have to reseat the bullet. What could I be missing?

[@mefirst5427]

Try flat nose bullets like Hornady XTP and Lee crimp die

[@timdelph9048]

Hey Gavin, there are all sorts of contradicting sources of information out there on the headspacing. I don't rightly care which one it spaces on, nor am I any sort of expert. But at least the Speer manual says it spaces off the mouth. That Wilson gage is made to measure off the shoulder though. I enjoy .357 Sig, and after the initial learning curve of reloading for it, I enjoy loading for it on my Dillon.

[@Crlarl]

Have you considered reloading 7.65 Borchardt, 7.63 Mauser or 7.62 Tokarev?

[@Ultimatereloader]

I've thought about 7.62 Tokarev - perhaps down the road at some point- so many cartridges to load for!

[@phineas4513]

You mentioned that you can adjust the sizing die for proper sizing. I had thought that when the shellplate touches bottom of the die, you get proper standard sizing. If say I was doing it wrong the entire time, could the cases have been headspacing at the mouth all along?

[@Ultimatereloader]

Check out the article- there's more info there. (top of video description). The short answer is: use a good case gage to setup the seater (using steps) - and don't trust any "default" die setups with this cartridge. :)

[@phineas4513]

aha! It pays for me to RTFM! I was just starting to read your article when you replied. Thanks Gavin!

[@Ultimatereloader]

RTFM :) haha.

[@russellsamson1828]

How do you handle Glock bulge brass?

[@thompsonjerry3412]

Just bought an AP press and after 1200 rounds the carriage started not advancing fully on occasion leading to a jam. The carriage would do this in both directions equally, before I adjusted the paws I thought I would ask for help. The other thing I noticed is star gear at the bottom of the ram has a little rotational play in it, do not know if this is Norma, what do you think?

[@Ultimatereloader]

Jerry- I'll see if i can help. The star wheel does rotate freely. What kind of adjustments did you do to the advancement pawls?

[@Ultimatereloader]

Here's a video Hornady posted on adjusting the pawls- check it out and let me know how it goes! kzbin.info/www/bejne/mH27h4SOaqZ3gZI

[@lonewanderer3603]

Hmm.. The rcbs dies are a lot different. I'm having trouble with them crushing the shoulder during sizing. Can't figure out what's wrong.

[@Intrusive32]

LoneWanderer360 back it out maybe. Or too much lube. It causes hydraulic pressure. Clean the die well too

[@lonewanderer3603]

Daniel Arteaga Until I have more time to play with it, I'm body sizing with a 40sw, neck sizing with the 357Sig, and flaring with a 9mm. It's a lot more steps, but I don't want to waste my nickel cases. I'll experiment on the mixed brass.

[@mr.debusy2457]

Were U using the Glock 20 mag loaded with the sig 357 ammo ?

[@Ultimatereloader]

Lone Wolf conversion barrel!

[@thompsonjerry3412]

Have not made any adjustments yet.

[@hillshepherd9444]

357sig my fav. But I don't have the ability to load them.

[@shuppr]

What lee dies are you using?

[@sterlingperry9114]

Just got a hornady LNL, do you use one shot on everything you run through the press?

[@Ultimatereloader]

Congrats on the new press! I use One-Shot for all pistol loads, and I use either Dillon DCL or Imperial Case Sizing Wax for rifle. You will likely stick cases with bottleneck cartridges (except pistol, worked great for .357 SIG) if you are using One-Shot.

[@KR-go4yx]

What lee die set kit is it?

[@samz81]

What powder are you using? I'm now starting to try AA9 with 124 gr Zero bullets.

[@Ultimatereloader]

CFE Pistol- full data in the write-up (see link in video description).

[@stickfighter1038]

How do you like CFE Pistol? I mainly use HS-6 and Longshot for 357 Sig (even used Unique). HS-6 with Montana Gold 124 GR bullets has so far shown to be the most accurate in my Glock 24. Just got some CFE pistol to reload 380 and it is an economical powder. Would be interesting to see a pistol powder comparison video for 357 Sig and perhaps 10 MM .

[@jeffgaulden5879]

What happened to your reloading room?

[@Ultimatereloader]

Nothing- this was filmed at the Ultimate Reloader Outpost (R). I can reload, shoot, and film at the same location, and the Range Officer is really easy to get along with. :)

[@ZERO_42069]

I dont even shoot.357 but i want to reload it and get a glock in 357

[@talisikid1618]

Actually it’s based on the 10mm, not 40sw.

[@coolvideo28]

I would NOT use a 40 cal casing. 40 cal. casings are not as thick as a 357 Sig casing should be. Especially if you are reloading you are playing with fire.

[@MatteoSixSeventyFour]

While not recommended. People have been doing it since the 94's when it came out and brass was nonexistant.

[@l67swap1]

357 cases are thicker than a 40 cal case for the extra pressures it runs

[@MatteoSixSeventyFour]

Not in any of the ones I've seen. Much like 9mm +P or +P+ cases aren't any thicker

[@MinimalistMotoLife]

357 sig is thicker than the old 40s&w cases built to the original SAAMI spec, but back in the 90's they learned that the overly thin case web was causing problems in less supported barrels. So all US manufacturers changed over. But foreign headstamp 40, well a lot of guys won't even reload them for 40.... Newer US made 40S&W varies from a little thinner to a little thicker than 357 sig. Legitimate companies like Ultra-tech have been loading 357 sig in 40 brass for years sold to competitive shooters over in Australia.

[@stefanodogg280]

NOTE: the .357 SIG operates at 20% greater potential pressure than the .40 S & W. Some .40 caliber firearms cannot handle .357 SIG, so be careful !

[@charlesvilleneuve4052]

hi, you mentioned lube a few times and it's funny because I have been having issues with powder contamination lately reloading 500 s&w. I tried to put less lube but then the cases stick in the sizing die (I have actually broken a shell plate doing this). I have done the sizing in a separate step and cleaned before loading and still have maybe 1 in 50 duds. I use dillon case lube. any insight ?

[@Ultimatereloader]

You know, I haven't had any issues with contamination - that's a bit strange. Are you sure it's contamination? Just checking: are you using large rifle primers?

[@charlesvilleneuve4052]

yes, large rifle primer and h110 powder. when I have a dud, the primer fires and sticks the bullet in the barrel. the unburnt powder is kind of a yellowish color and smell a bit oily

[@daviddavis1322]

charles villeneuve I've seen other accounts of H110/W296 producing squids and leaving unburned, yellow powder residue in 500 S&W. When reloading 357Mag with W296 I still see some yellowish residue if there is unburned powder. It seems like H110/W296 needs to be nearly full in the case or you risk incomplete detonation.

[@charlesvilleneuve4052]

David Davis that is interesting insight. I had always assumed the yellow powder was caused by lube contamination. with that said I really can't see filling the case with h110 without going over the maximum load

[@daviddavis1322]

Yup. Which is why I'm not so hot on using W296. Perhaps a magnum rifle primer is in order?

[@littlejohnny47]

Good video! Informative! You can make a less expensive practice load using plated bullets instead of the XTP's. BERRY bullets makes a thick plate good for 1500 fps that works well. Regards

[@onlinexistence7692]

300blk ?

[@pittsbirds1656]

I have about 200 or so .357sig brass that I have picked up at the range. Does anybody want/need them? I am sure they are once fired, but as the reloader it will be your job to look the cases over. Anyway if anyone wants them just let me know.

[@charlesdarwin1467]

Sir what is your opinion on hornady dies for 357 sig?

[@Jags4don]

Watch his videos, but this one everything was preset no help on how to actually set up the days essentially just shows how to pull a handle and shoot it what I’d like to see is how to set up the days as this round is much more difficult than a straight wall

[@samdunlap5365]

G-33

[@greggwonder2199]

👍✌🇺🇸

[@greggwonder2199]

👍Beauty of the G20. I bought the 6in 10mm,357 Sig n SW 40 barrels. Three Glocks for under a grand. All work great.😁🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@AKlover]

Underwood and Doubletap both make 135gr 40 S&W and 10mm, don't see the point in .357 Sig.

[@MinimalistMotoLife]

Sectional density, one thing the marketing department never mentions because it's not as dramatic as saying "fifteen hundred feet per second" "six hundred and twelve foot pounds of muzzle energy" but without the appropriate sectional density a bullet is useless. It takes a over 220gr in 10mm to come close to a 180gr .35, 200gr to 158gr, all while that 135gr 10mm is closer to a 105gr .35 Going light for caliber to gain velocity only hurts you. 180 gr and 147s as well as 230gr 45s are in the same ball park with the bigger ones punching a bigger hole, all three work great. Comparing a 135gr offerings in both 357 and 40 or even 10mm is pointless because the 135gr 10mm at a sectional density of .121 lacks penetration required. Good for varmints not for anything bigger than a coyote. Don't be fooled by the marketing bullshit, velocity and energy mean nothing when comparing apples and oranges except that it gets to the target quicker. In 10/40 stick with 165-180 for two legged 200-220 for bigger tougher things. Unless you want to go varmint hunting and don't care about saving the fur, that's the perfect application for 135s

[@AKlover]

...... or just research the ammo and make sure the projectile JHP in this case does what it is supposed to at that loading. 7.62 Tok or 7.63 Mauser and I am probably missing a few low mass high velocity projectiles have been killing bipeds for decades. Would I carry A Tokarev in grizzly country? NO! Humans are not grizzly bears.

[@MinimalistMotoLife]

. even right there in your own comment you describe exactly where it hurts, terminally. "A few inches" over 10% loss in penetration going to the 115s in your testing and I am sure your tests are done like most of these KZbin a tests, on inorganic material or dead flesh, bled out that has been frozen at least once Where else it hurts? External ballistics, as a rule of thumb the lower the sectional density the lower the ballistic coefficient. More drop and wind drift. Shoot some living breathing mammals and you will see why light for caliber bullets are just a marketing gimmick. In pistol calibers even FMJs will fail to penetrate living flesh and bone, critters smaller than humans. if there's no exit wound it's inadequate.

[@jimwest1967]

think you got the wrong gun