Unleash Energy Savings: Installing X-Bracket System on Exterior for Spray Foam

Encapsulating the exterior of your home with our new X-Bracket System allows for fully continuous insulation on the outside of your home with Spray Foam! The X-Bracket System is revolutionizing the construction industry with it's ease-of-application and ability to work with all types of insulation on the exterior!
Be sure to call us about pricing and quotes to be ready for when X-Brackets are released this December.
Learn more about the X-Bracket System:
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[@SpaceCrete]

I think that coming up with practical sheathing connectors with low thermal bridging is a fantastic idea, particularly for retrofits. More power to you!! Even though it potentially could compete with what we are doing. Anyone who is innovating to improve energy consumption and moisture management needs to be commended for doing that. Best of success!

[@CrestoneColorado-yj4we]

I build high performance homes AND install closed cell foam myself. Ive tried quite a few wall systems, double stud, exterior roockwool, zip-r etc. I am designing a custom build right now with this system. I see this on going in my next few builds. One being my own home.

[@huck444]

@@CrestoneColorado-yj4we do you have a channel? Would love to see your build and review of it.

[@insofast-continuous-insulation]

Keep us posted. Very interested to hear your thoughts on this new system compared to your previous projects!

[@ELDTAdventures-tp9jy]

Say, would you recommend a cement-board siding over the top of the foam insulation for a better home insurance rating?

[@jimviau327]

It would have been great to get a cost analysis. Great video 🎉

[@insofast-continuous-insulation]

We'll add that to our list of new videos to create! Thanks for the suggestion!

[@alldecentnamestaken]

This is a really interesting system. I'm generally not a fan of spray foam for a variety of reasons but this system addresses a lot of those concerns (VOCs, continuity, etc.)

[@Ninjump]

Same. I've been taking really hard look at it, and the carbon outlay is the last big concern I have. Super interesting

[@arturturk5926]

That stuff burns like brush, I would never use that product, inside or out.

[@hamadilawson4471]

​@@arturturk5926It great for air sealing although i agree its flammability is definite concern. Only in area cover by a non combustible matter.

[@hamadilawson4471]

Its moderately reminder of the spider tie system.

[@francismcgovern5042]

looks great, my concern is quality control. There seems to be a lot of chances to screw up and obviously crews must be specifically trained. But that is usually the issue in residential new and unusual products take a couple years before all of the installers achieve true competency, in the mean time quality control is irregualar. Acrylic stucco comes to mind.

[@edinsofast]

The Key to quality workmanship is: The Framers fasten the X-Brackets and the furring strips and the professional spray foam insulator does the insulation!

[@donthrift9287]

great work

[@Ninjump]

Hope we can meet at Build Show Live and talk about it! Amazing innovation

[@insofast-continuous-insulation]

We hope to see you there, too!

[@bjkjoseph]

It will insulate better than spraying on the inside, but at what cost?

[@edinsofast]

Good question. spraying on the inside will leave miles of seams around every stud it will do nothing to seal air leaks at the bottom and top plates or between studs that are doubled up and the performance of the framing in the entire wall assembly is lowered by about 25% so you are only getting 75% of what you pay for. if you were to spray R-21 foam as a single monolithic seamless layer of insulation with the x-bracket on the outside it will exceed the performance of spraying R-30 in the cavity and will exceed the 2024 IECC code without ANY CAVITY INSULATION

[@mistyrichardson6041]

Thanks for sharing like the idea. Could these be used for rockwool applications on the exterior of a home too?

[@insofast-continuous-insulation]

Yes, the X-Brackets are designed to be used for any insulation whether it is spray foam, rockwool, or cellulose.

[@mistyrichardson6041]

@insofast-continuous-insulation where can I buy them

[@dag410]

Rockwool would be the best, I agree. For R value, sound, and fire!

[@kurtsmith4657]

ICF for the win

[@VARocketry]

So are these commented RISKS valid/significant: 1) cost, 2) interior moisture control, 3) flammability of spray foam?

[@nelsongilbert1695]

these are general questions asked by anyone for any spray foam job regardless of application procedure. Similar answers apply.

[@DumbCarGuy]

Did I miss something. So you sheath then spray foam then sheath again? The plastic anchors are all Willy Nilly on the sides. How do you side to that. Then no solid outside corners to nail too. Then addressing the windows and doors 🤔. Is that just their problem? Seems a few cases of spray foam need to be left onsite for other tradesmen to do their thing. I get the idea but I dunno. What about wet weather and rainy conditions when applying? How do I know the trapped heat won’t release the foam from the house?

[@byronlaw6724]

I don't believe they re-sheath after installing the furring strips. If I understand correctly, the siding is attached to the furring strips. The foam acts as a vapor and water barrier and an air gap will exist between the siding and the foam so there is ventilation from the foundation to the ridge vent.

[@brentmcgillis]

My concern on ANY building envelope that is 100% air tight, is that the home then will rquire an Air-to-Air ventilation system that will pre-heat the incoming Air with the Exhaust Air via the Air > Air heat exchanger. This Air > Air system will all have to be sized and designed by a HVAC Engineer to ensure that you do not suffocate the inhabitants of this newly "Hermetically Sealed" building. This Air-toAir HVAC system will NOT only supply fresh Oxygen for the people living in this perfectly sealed box to breath, but the system will need humidifiers to control the humidty. The humistat will also be sensitive to water vapour that is now 100% Locked inside of your home, and will kick on the Air-to-Air heat exchanger to exhaust the humid air from showers, cooking and humans sweating and breathing to the great oudoors. The exhausted warm and humid air passing through the ATA exhanger will bring the outside air to the same ambient air inside of the now sealed structure. Can you see where this is going? By completely sealing the building, now you have created an entirely different set of problems and parameters to deal with, but to come up with engineered air systems to properly deal with the needs of the people inside the building. Not just the people, but the structure could be put at risk of developing issues like excessive sweating of vapour withing the house, if the water vapours created are not dealt with appropriately. This is NOT within the design scope of capabilities of a DIY homeowner. These solutions are designed by HVAC Engineering firms, and installed by HVAC tradesmen. How do I know, because we used to install these systems for Big and Small structures like Public swimming pools and tightly sealed open design vaulted, multi-story homes with lots of glass. You could guess at sizing systems but you will waste thousands in the process. This is not some kind of bush-league building system, this is an advanced building system that is going to require a HVAC professional like an engineer to properly source and size the HVAC components for this system to work properly at its optimum design specifications. All of these design configurations and features will need to be considered and planned for BEFORE you start just slapping this building together. These are the planning considerations needed before utilizing this method of insulating the exterior of your home, with this external Hermetic sealed insulation system. Worse yet if your HVAC is not up to the task you could risk creating MOLD on the insdie of your structure. This kind of design capability if beyond the pay grade of 99% of home owners, this is the kind of system that has to be done correctly, and then you will have a home you can be proud of and that functions properly. This kind of home is not going to require a lot of heating and cooling energy because it is so highly efficient.

[@VARocketry]

Brent - you bring up an important issue that eluded me as a homeowner, not a tradesman. I am interested in the x-bracket/foam solution as a possible rehab of a poorly installed 1990s dryvit over plywood installation in coastal NW Florida. No WB/VB products were used. We have water incursion at 50% of the window and door penetrations with structural elements damaged underneath. But the AC system would need redesign, I assume, as you point out which is a bridge too far I believe. Darn!

[@nelsongilbert1695]

@@brentmcgillis Blower Door Test gives ACH and CFM values which are used to rate the house. Based on those values an "HVAC" system matched to provide quality air/vapor requirements per code.

[@grahamstefaan]

Seems silly vs Zip R or rockwool + rainscreen

[@timlippens1458]

Would I need to sheet the roof if I’m going to install a metal roof?

[@rexated5148]

I would guess not. The foam is waterproof, so there would only be the furring strips that could get weathered, and they would stay dry most of the time.

[@insofast-continuous-insulation]

Yes, we recommend sheathing the roof before putting any roofing on, but especially for a metal roof.

[@genemounceSr]

This would be SO expensive, closed cell spray foam wise.

[@alldecentnamestaken]

One of the offsets you get is not needing sheathing with an integrated WRB and not needing house wrap or the associated labor. I know those are relatively minor savings but when factored in it does close the cost delta.

[@denniscooper6328]

​@alldecentnamestaken you have to consider the entire cost though. You're basically doubling your framing labor and materials. This doesn't make a lot of sense for a new home unless you're super rich and focus solely on energy efficiency.

[@markg7963]

Anybody that says they can’t afford to do things, usually shouldn’t. They won’t be committed to the place long enough for it to pay you back. I have an ICF house. It’s awesome, but wasn’t cheap. What nobody ever thinks about is not only is it efficient, it’s WAY more comfy and quiet. As to guess as it’s worth extra money to go long on these types of things, means you have to commit to staying there to make it pay.

[@jfstraube]

I have done this using my own clips and have done it with Rockwool and with polyiso and with xps. Where I live spray foam was the cheapest

[@huck444]

Hate to be negative, but I’m missing where this fits in the market. It seems like so much added work and cost vs say Zip R-System or SIP panels, with a lot more complication around installation, maintenance and replacement.

[@mistyrichardson6041]

It impacts because it allows the spray foam to be on outside of home. This is the direction building houses for those who want a better insulated home. Out with the old in with the new.

[@jeremyfogt6798]

I think they said it a couple of times, fits well in for houses that have very little insulation.

[@grahamstefaan]

Holds no water vs polyiso board.​@jeremyfogt6798

[@sailorjohnboy]

this would cost atleast $75k for a house this size in my area. is there really a market for retrofitting this on existing houses? no way.

[@huck444]

@@mistyrichardson6041 but SIP panels and Zip R-System do the same for lower cost and easier maintainability.

[@JimTakeoutademocrate-ir1be]

If the foam is a vaper barrior, should work well. In the UK, they now have some issues with open cell foam used in this manor. Moisture condensed on the inside of the exterior wood and rotted the sheathing and rafters. Insurance companies in the UK are cancelling home policies on the homes with spray foam. The strange thing is, the UK gov had incentives for people to install this spray foam!

[@edinsofast]

Building Science teaches Spray foam entirely over the roof deck that is thick enough to prevent condensation does not have those issues

[@jeffgeorge2363]

How does it affect wind load rating?

[@insofast-continuous-insulation]

certified up to 170 mph winds! All our certs are posted on our website!

[@mikefrench3800]

What about masonry veneers?

[@byronlaw6724]

I saw another video that showed keyed grooves on the back of the X brackets that can be used with poly-urethane-based adhesives to solidly adhere the brackets to masonry type veneers (same as how their current line of Insofast panels are attached to masonry veneers).

[@chrismurray8019]

Artspan SIP design wins hands down.

[@markbrajkovich311]

I wasn’t into this video until i heard the rad guitars

[@richie1317]

Are they on sale yet?

[@terrencejreich]

December 2024

[@insofast-continuous-insulation]

December 23024 - if you want to stay updated with availability, sign up here (www.insofast.com/x-bracket-system#x-bracket-updates) for all X-Bracket updates and release date.

[@rickymccarty594]

So after install your walls and roof are anchored into plastic? Am i getting that wrong?

[@pandagold4722]

Hey we are just the insulation guys, Siding is your problem.

[@michaelpetryna2658]

OHSA? What is OHSA?

[@peterbauer-o8u]

Something to think about. Search Labs | AI Overview Learn more … Yes, gaps in a home's sheathing can indeed allow moisture to penetrate, get trapped between the foam insulation and the sheathing, leading to potential rot in the wood framing due to prolonged dampness; this is especially concerning if the foam is a closed-cell type which can hinder moisture escape. Explanation: Moisture intrusion: Even small gaps in the sheathing can allow water vapor to enter the wall cavity, especially during periods of high humidity. Foam barrier: When spray foam insulation is applied, its closed cell structure can act as a vapor barrier, trapping moisture that gets behind it, preventing it from drying out. Condensation potential: If the temperature difference between the inside and outside of the wall is significant, moisture can condense on the cooler surface, which could be the back of the sheathing, further contributing to moisture build-up. Rot development: When wood remains wet for extended periods, it becomes susceptible to rot-causing fungi, leading to decay in the framing members.

[@arturturk5926]

Until they make foam that does not burn so well, no foam for me at all. Watch some burn tests between spray foam and other insulation.

[@VARocketry]

Where can I find those tests? Seems like an important risk to understand.

[@arturturk5926]

@@VARocketry a key word search should do the trick

[@MrDhalli6500]

If you're building a brand new house why didn't you just use SIPs????

[@davidshumway9639]

Why use these specific plastic brackets ro just provide a way to attach firring strips away from the building. Why not just buy long metal studs and chop them up at the appropriate depth. Or chunks of Wood. I just don't see the need for this specific plastic thing that is probably super expensive when its function could be duplicated with something much less expensive.

[@huck444]

@@davidshumway9639 wood and metal act as a thermal bridge.

[@SolarTechFL]

Neat system but i like icf more

[@amalfi460]

A fire would pump poisonous fumes wouldn’t it?

[@dmk1529]

Make a good fish house.

[@jeanmarcforcier383]

Hope never catches fire.

[@brianhasledalen3291]

Ummmmm. On a new build I think ICF would be a much better and economical choice

[@SegoMan]

ICF for the basement walls and sips for the upper ones is a perfect combo..

[@josephshoemate9933]

OCD nightmare

[@billyd.6411]

Would be nice whole lot cheaper to build more nuclear power plants and make energy more affordable, new insulation technology creates very tight homes leading to moisture build up - mold rotting wood. With new framing products that’s really a bad

[@insofast-continuous-insulation]

It's not about using more energy...it's about using less. We have a video coming out soon on the importance of airtightness in a home...

[@billyd.6411]

Just took my continuing education for my GC license and for the. Last 5 years they are really pushing energy efficiency and house ventilation, ok both important but with nuclear power being almost the cheapest way to make electricity we should build more plants improve the grid and drive the cost of energy down power down besides foam is a bi product of petroleum so it’s not cheap and it’s not considered to be green so seems like we’re chasing our tails!😊

[@koenraadprincen7212]

How on earth can the next generation rebuild (or reuse) this house? Spray foam generates too much landfill...

[@jeremyfogt6798]

If you building a house thinking we can just remodel later I believe you have the wrong though process. New house are to be built so they don't need remodeled later, at least the exterior.

[@koenraadprincen7212]

@@jeremyfogt6798 A house that's easy to "deconstruct", is easier to remodel.

[@shvrdavid]

@@jeremyfogt6798 Lol, you keep believing that.... New homes are falling apart all over the country.....

[@philspd473]

Hard no for me.

[@jamessimmonds3773]

Good for a super cold climate but uneconomical for everyone

[@antoniojoseandreomartinez9710]

👍❤️🫂

[@MikeRev-w3h]

I thought today was Halloween, not April Fools?

[@MrDhalli6500]

What you're doing is just SIPs with extra steps.

[@rc6614]

I think this is a really stupid thing to do and you should probably not do any more videos online ever. Because people copy stupid OK.

[@trapper8377]

JUNK

[@joeblow5381]

lol,rediculous

[@bobbray9666]

Just use Zip-R sheathing - sheathing, WRB and exterior insulation all-in-one that any framer will understand how to install. If you use 2x4 framing and Zip-R12, there's no window bucks, no furring strips, and regular windows and doors made for 2x6 walls fit perfectly. The building envelope is air and water tight. My 2x4 walls with Zip-R12 are R-30 with closed cell spray foam between the stud cavities. I wouldn't even consider using spray foam to cover an exterior wall with a bunch of plastic nubs to hang furring strips and siding on. How does one detail waterproofing window and door openings? Not a fan of window/door bucks when they're not needed for exterior insulation. Exterior insulation issues have been solved with Zip-R. Not so fast, Insofast...

[@davidshumway9639]

You're right that for new construction this doesn't make the sense like your recipe. But as the little insulation fella said. If you have an existing home that needs better insulation and you're going to be re-siding it anyway. This is probably a decent way to go. You wouldn't want to rip the outside of a home to the studs and follow up with zip-r12.

[@easyox77]

Dumb! Interior only fellas.

[@petervandebovenkamp3653]

Spray foam...bad for your wallet and health

[@jeremyfogt6798]

Not sure where you get health based on studies but maybe based on hearsay. Agree with wallet but I guess they say it works out in long term energy savings.

[@petervandebovenkamp3653]

@jeremyfogt6798 When the sprayfoam gets in contact with moist (air) it degenerates slowly and releases chemical gasses. As a contractor myself I quit with using this material. I had families who got sick from it. I rebuild it with foampanels on the outside with a watertight barrier in between. Problem solved. But these people keep staying allergic for these chemicals.

[@petervandebovenkamp3653]

@jeremyfogt6798 If the spray foam gets in contact with moist it will release a little bit of gasses MDA etc. Google some approved tests and find out. There are already people who get seriously ill and alergic from spray foam. Besides that in the future you have to pay a very high price for deconstructing the building. Every piece of wood contacted by spray foam will be chemical waste. If you still want to use it, use it on the outside of the walls and roofs and put a barrier between it so the gasses will not penetrate into your building.

[@abelardochavez3426]

That fong between few years is noting but dust, light dust

[@pandagold4722]

What a disaster. Spray foam is a solid form of gasoline. Once any part of that foam catches fire, goodbye to the whole house. Extremely toxic when burning. Do not do this. Use rockwool or something similar on outside. Also, how the heck are you supposed to get your siding to lay correctly?

[@byronlaw6724]

The siding is not lying on the foam. It's attaching to the furring strips which are attached to the X-Brackets, which are attached to the sheathing which are attached to the studs. So unless the studs, the sheathing or the furring strips look like ocean waves the siding should fashion a consistent even surface.

[@goodsguy6720]

To me it's wayyyy too tight! Just one man's opinion.

[@URKlewless]

Spend $15000 to save $15 a month, oh and then you sell the house and move in 5 years

[@jeremyfogt6798]

He said he sprayed 1050 sq ft. A google search says that is between $1000 to $7500, probably a little low but no where close to $15000. Granted that is just the spray foam, maybe all the other extra materials and labor could take you to the the $15K. You are probably way low on that $15 a month unless you live in a pretty steady temp climate like around 65-85 degrees year round.

[@dellmerlin6328]

Can this be a total DIY project if FoamItGreen foam is used with the InSoFast?

[@morehp1]

@@jeremyfogt6798 buddy that was what he sprayed a day the roof alone is bigger

[@davidshumway9639]

​@@morehp1yeah that is a small building but no way the entire exterior envelope only adds up to 1050sq ft.

[@insofast-continuous-insulation]

The whole project was sprayed in one day, which was around 1050 total. This sq ft includes the roof as well.

[@bowkill1striker829]

Does it seem cost-efficient why would you not spray inside and then sheet rock over top your using double the material i’m hoping this was just a trial. It’ll never work never catch on material Cost to much now.