Three DIFFERENT ways to TRIM EDGE-BANDING

I try out some methods that were recommended in the comments.

[@moeb434]

I'm glad you like learning. Most trade types think they know everything because they have twenty years experience. They learned everything they know in the first year! The true craftsman knows that every year new developments are happening in every trade. A guy has to love learning, like you do! Keep up the good work!!!!

[@dominioncrowntv5197]

Amen brother!

[@ianf8005]

OK this is trippy. First you taught me how to skateboard now you're teaching me how to trim edge-banding

[@gavinjoycecarlabergen3965]

Two tips from my experience: 1) I have the same router and find that it works best for me using your off-hand thumb on the base-plate in the little indent, and then your forefinger as an edge-guide to keep the router pulled in tight to the cut. It keeps the router from tipping and gouging the workpiece. 2) I usually grab a file for edge banding and run it perpendicular to the banding. It cuts it off really fast and without noise. When you're reasonably flush, switch to sand paper to avoid marking the surface. Great videos, I've learned a bunch from you.

[@greggcheap6208]

I always use a six inch mud knife width at every edge. File it down and the put the next sheet on with again one knife width over hang. File and keep going til it's done. A fine wood file works best. You end up with a nice dark edge. Nice follow up video

[@HFRajuncajun]

I use all of those methods while doing laminate and edge banding. Thanks for the great demonstration. I also use seam fill remover (small metal container of it) to remove excess adhesive before doing the sandpaper. Just love how honest you are buddy. Always fun to watch.

[@SyahrinMasri]

tq for the video. the most clear explanation and demonstration so far ive seen

[@cipher2]

Happy 100k subs September man, well deserved!!!

[@ricHard.18]

I use the side of the chisel. Not the blade itself. I use then use sand paper or the round part of the chisel handle to burnish the edge. It hides gouges.

[@chrispetrie2165]

I picked up a laminate trimmer from Lee Valley for under $25 and it works great. Trims both edges of the tape at the same time.

[@papalouie5187]

I might have the same unit. it's great for laminate. for real wood veneer I get better results using 1 side at a time (avoids tearing the grain).

[@xavytex]

I use a 3 inches putty knife that I run at a 45 degres angle and I do a sliding motion inward at the same time. It acts like a pair of cisors between the knife and the edge of the board. It forms a long curly chip. Then 400 grit sandpaper on a melamine scrap. Takes about 10 seconds per side for a 3 foot board. It never digs into the veneer like a chisel or box opener do because 3 inches is wide enough to keep the cutting edge perfectly flat. Cheers !

[@zandemen]

If your flush cut router is taking off the finished surface there are a few possible causes. Most common would be tilting the router, but looks like you kept good control of it. Another is a worn out bearing on the guide bushing, allowing radial shift in the shaft to move it closer to the workpiece than design tolerances. Finally, a dirty worn out bit could have gummed up surfaces increasing the diameter of the bit. To tell which one, the first will have an angled blemish, tapering away, bad at the edge and reducing the further you get in. Also varies depending on tilt. A worn out bearing will have varying degrees of cut depending on the amount of pressure against the bearing, all of uniform width from top to bottom of the bit. A gummed up bit will likely leave streaks and burns. Could also be other signs of dulling or heating; tear out, heated glue extruded from the joint, delamination, rough cuts, etc..

[@zandemen]

Oh, I totally forgot; poorly designed or manufactured bit.

[@zandemen]

For the heat transfer edge banding you might want a fresh sharp bit, and set the speed to low.

[@Matt_Foley]

Goo Gone works great for removing any excess adhesive remaining on the seam, just use it very sparingly. It’s oil based and too much of it will stain the veneer. Just a dot of it on a corner of a paper towel and use your finger tip to gently rub it off.

[@AnotherClown01]

Informative thanks... Cheers

[@dgray7537]

You are gonna be a super pro after reading all the comments by the experts.

[@thoughtlesskills]

Rofl

[@dgray7537]

@@thoughtlesskills -fucking know it alls- Sexual Intellectuals just can't help it I suppose.

[@lexboegen]

I vote for the chisel over any of the other methods. I've found flush-trim bits to be a bit fiddly to deal with. Another problem with them is when the bearing seizes up and starts spinning with the bit, burnishing the wood and leaving a "track". You can build a simple jig for the flush-trimming bit to stabilize the router on narrow edges too. It's just a wood fence that rides along the face of the wood that you're trimming, helping to hold the router vertical. Even better is if you can take the piece of wood to a router table to trim it, but that's not possible for many situations (probably most for a carpenter like you working in customer's homes).

[@richardburguillos3118]

Another great video. Wish I could sand as fast as you.... 😁 Almost 100K Subscribers!!!! Yahoooooo

[@luckyvet]

100K today!

[@BrentDarlington]

Sharp Knife works best with a file or sandpaper to clean it up, quick wipe with lacquer thinner. Just got to be careful you don't did into the finish. Smaller pieces you can put face down and cut from the back with the point of the knife or use a block to cut against. Laminate edges are a different story, trim router and/or file.

[@rafemaxwell4143]

Use a utility blade like a draw knife. On your first pass back the blade with a piece of scrap edge banding or something very thin. the first pass will leave a tiny edge that will then trim very nicely on the next pass. This makes much less likely to gouge the work piece or splinter the banding by removing too much at once.

[@claudews529]

You're funny... I'd say, "ways to avoid" while trimming... :) If I may, respectfully... - the file method: A. only toward the panel, about 10 degrees with the panel, then lift away. B. in that move, apply force forward along the edge, cutting the exceeding trim. The small file I'd use is an half elipse because the side "cuts" better. - the olfa knife method (my prefered): A. I always use the surface as my guide; the blade out enough so I can put 2 fingers on the side of the blade, onto the surface, at an angle that will float on the panel while cutting the trim. Keep an 30-45 degrees angle with the trim so it cuts toward the panel (not away). The knife handle... use only to move forward and help keep both angles (side and surface). I'd say, I use the olfa exactly the way you use your chisel... without marking the panel :P regards your fan. :)

[@snurf727]

May I suggest instead of using Laquer Thinner, Try using rubbing alcohol/cheap after shave/cheap perfume. These will diisolve the sugars used in most/many adhesive products.

[@fonkenful]

John Da Costa Weldwood makes a product called 121 Contact cement cleaner - works like a charm, evaporates quickly and does not damage finished surfaces of either solid coloured or fake wood grains. A steady stroke with 2” chisel, followed by a few passes with the single face of file to soften the cut edges - otherwise either PVC or real wood veneer tape can be sharp enough to mess you up, The laminate trimmer is ideal,too for plastic laminate or thin sold wood edging, but you’d still want to chase around with wither 220G paper on a hard sanding block, or that single cut face of file.

[@Argyll9846]

For iron on melamine the chisel is hard to beat.

[@jonathanacton5133]

I also use a Block plane like the chisel does

[@AR-ek1jr]

I was wondering, if i were to round over the edge, do i edge band first or edge band after the round over?

[@pathfinder4506]

Lay your file flat and move in the right direction. Slow and steady. Or use a straight or bevel laminate router bit

[@confusedwhale]

"It's all going to be okay."

[@ainzooalgown7589]

saved me $20, I need to replace 1 edge band on my cabinet and i dont want to but a dedicated trimmer just to use once and then have it collect dust

[@jeffcanyafixiy]

👍👍

[@markgkenny2264]

The solvent for adhesive is denature alcohol. Appreciate the video but it is clear that you don't do this for a living. Thanks

[@MrPDTaylor]

How about three different ways to do a kickflip?

[@vino867]

this looks like Richmond

[@kevincoulombe3608]

Why don't you use a flush router for the edge

[@Melb_buddy]

What’s edge banding...?

[@TheGreenEarthKitty]

“Edge banding is a thin strip of wood veneer that can be applied to the edges of plywood. Edge banding is made from real wood, so you can match it to the rest of the wood you're finishing or even apply a stain. Once you apply edge banding, your plywood can look almost indistinguishable from real finished wood.” (Wondered the same thing and had to look it up!)

[@frankpinmtl]

"That wasn't me" Typical trades...it came out automatically, didn't it?

[@Adventureswitnikki]

who taught you how to use a file?sheeesh!!

[@BrentDarlington]

Painful to watch Hahaha

[@stephenmurdoch2970]

Carpenter says: "half a 32nd"... Me: Finds a new carpenter.