Fine Thread vs Coarse Thread Drywall Screws

[@Kenjiro5775]

I learned how to frame when I was young, but I have always kind of sucked at finishing drywall. This channel has been like apprenticing with a pro. Thanks! 😁👍

[@clayton2692]

This video was a life saver for a DIYer! I was going to be using the self-taping on my metal stud framed basement because those are the screws they sell next to the steel studs at the big box store. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Great video as always!

[@craigestey489]

Hey! Know where else those self tappers come in handy? I got a box of em at a discount supply store and used them on my 1/2” thick fence boards. Self tapping meant no splitting and stainless meant no rusting. Worked great for that.😁

[@billm.8220]

My present digs are wood framing. I use coarse thread drywall screws to fix problems. Had a metal frame built in a previous abode but contracted that out due to the fact I had no knowledge about it back then. There’s a story behind that last statement but that’s for another time. Your knowledge is vast & worth a lot. Appreciate all your teaching. Learning a ton but still have a lot more to learn.

[@ericmarable1391]

Just wanted to reach out. Never did drywall before other than some patches an matching texture. Took a bold step watching your videos, framed and finished my basement and dude did it turn out amazing. Thanks so much for the tips. I'm no total amateur, I did woodworking and costume building for my whole life, just shifted my talents thanks to your guidance

[@Discospawn]

Hi, thanks for the video. I'd also enjoy a video where you go over the different types of drywall sheets (thicknesses, ultralight vs non-light, water-resistant/firecode, etc). 1 of the things I was most surprised by with a recent renovation project I finished was how crazy the difference in weight/strength was between typical 1/2" ultralight vs 5/8" Mold-Tough Firecode X sheets.

[@EricLS]

For real. I have a whole room with ultralight 1/2 inch, and the walls are like a bass drum. I kind of hate it.

[@Casmige]

I’ve found the 1.25” coarse drywall screws my all-around go-to use for anything-&-everything screw!!.

[@Grizzleback07]

You answered my neverending question of why there are fine thread and course threas screws while at the home improvement store.

[@Klodvig105]

I've recently redone our kitchen walls. Wood studs, used drywall that was stiffened with fiberglass and the recommended drywall screws (35 mm) had two different threads pitches, coarse thread to sink in the wood and fine thread for the part that sinks just into the drywall.

[@bencheevers6693]

How does a screw with 2 different thread pitches work? I don't think I understand, if it had 2 different thread pitches than it would strip out one of them because one full rotation would be a different distance on two pitches. I mean more grooves in the drywall technically would have more friction but it's the paper not the gypsum that holds it on and the stripping out of the hole would when the screw is pulled into the wood would probably counteract that, I think I'm misunderstanding because I do drywall and I've never heard of or seen that. Edit: Maybe it's the fiberglass material that you use, I haven't ever seen or used those products, I think maybe it's tile backing board that you're talking about and then maybe the fiberglass compresses rather than strips out, I don't know but it would cool to see that product, I also wonder how they manufacture a screw with two pitches on it, you can do something on a bolt for fine adjustments with two pitches but it uses two different sized threads, I forget the specifics but Tubalcain has a really good video on it and I totally didn't understand I before I watched

[@markwkenny]

Building code allows you to use either fine thread or coarse thread in wood stud, but requires use of fine thread in steel stud. I’ve personally found the same as Ben that the fine thread in wood don’t have the same holding strength and are more likely to strip before the head is fully sunk in white wood lumber. Best to use coarse thread in wood and fine thread in metal and only use the self-tapping fine thread in heavy gauge steel stud.

[@belapps6335]

Mark: Thank you very much for explaining the best way to use threads. VC: Thank you for the video. They help a lot.

[@2strokepower803]

In my local hardware store they sell all these drywall screws plus they have a model that is supposed to work on both wood and lightweight steel. It's kinda coarse thread with fine thread in between. Like double threads on one screw.

[@thoughtlesskills]

Fine threads have a shallower angle of thread creating more engagement with thin material meaning more deformation has to happen to loosen or remove the fastener.

[@tonyc7352]

I noticed a new drywall screw at HD the other day. "universal" drywall screws, meant for both wood and steel. It would be interesting for you to test them.

[@dswallrich]

Thank you so much for this..I'm in my 60s, and have hung many thousands of sq ft., Only into wood and as a amateur. If I was left alone to do a job with steel, I would have picked self tapping. Maybe I would be right, as I did not know there were two grades of steel studs...now I just need help mudding fast in one try.

[@ofiasdfnosdf]

The thin metal studs on my 40 year old florida townhome were extremely challenging to get through using a regular drill and the fine thread screws.

[@vancouvercarpenter]

It's possible they may have been heavy gauge or maybe the older ones were a hair thicker.

[@als1023]

I found the Home Depot fine thread screws took forever to bite through the thin guage metal studs. Checked with another hardware store, same deal. Something about the shiny screws whether fine or coarse, don't push through the metal well at all. Seems like the point is too dull.

[@martincarnahan381]

fine is meant for metal and course is for wood. fine doesn't guarantee a good bite though. the same with self tappers. it depends on the manufacturer. i buy self tappers from home cheapo and they slip most of the time. if you want guaranteed quality materials go to a supply house. not home improvement stores. they carry what they can get at the cheapest price. not necessarily the best quality.

[@joshwyse8732]

I wish I could come work for you for a while. You're a good teacher, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@maireobrien2060]

This video is the solution to every problem I've had in life..... kidding, but really, this is fabulous information that solves many riddles for a big home project! Many thanks!

[@thunder3470]

Ideas Drywall sizes, different types, green board, cement board, hand tools, getting along with people, team work, hopefully more.

[@chrise202]

Thank you I think if you turned the c frame around after screwing in all the screws, you'd see an interesting picture showing the difference between cutting a hole in the thin metal sheet vs pinching a hole and pushing the metal out which creates a solid bump that the thread can hold onto.

[@JustinMacKenzie]

Another great video. Would love to see a video on installing type x drywall and fire rated tape. For a mechanical room. Thanks

[@이홍익-z9s]

Hi what is fire rate tape? Please le me know?

[@LogicWarrior1474]

Great topic. How do you determine the proper length of screw? Is it a specific amount of length beyond the thickness of the board?

[@eddyj01258]

Hanging 1/2 inch drywall on wood studs, you would use 1 1/4 course thread screws? Is there a particular brand screw you prefer? I've watched most all of your videos (You are a wealth of knowledge and greatly appreciated)I think I've heard you mention the answers but I can't find them. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I'll be finishing my basement soon and I've picked up a lot from you. Please keep the videos coming.

[@mohnjarx7801]

Can you do a video on different types of mud and when/what to use them for? Light weight, ultra light weight, etc

[@mrlanpp]

Excellent explanations. Thank you!

[@tamurphy71]

Question I hope you can answer. It's not regarding this video but I think you would know. I'm trying to locate ceiling joists so I can hang a swing in a corner bedroom for the grandkids. I have measured 24", and 16" from the corner out going both length and width, crawled up in the attic to double check the direction they are laid, but can't get back to that corner, the area I could see they were spaced 24" apart. Then even went to an unfinished room in the basement to see what the spacing on those ones were.. 17". It doesn't matter what measurements I use, I can not find ANY joists in about a 5'x4' space from that corner. My stud finder won't calibrate on the ceiling. I found a joist by the ceiling fan but it literally only goes about 4'. My ceiling is not bowing, no signs of water damage.....I even tried the magnet trick and got it to work on the walls but not the ceiling. Now, one joist I found is 34" from the wall, then the next one 24", then the next one is 16", then I cannot find the next joist before the opposite wall. I am serious confused. I just finished patching up about 50 nail test holes at a bunch of different measurements. I even did a line close to 3 feet long about an inch apart and didn't hit anything. Any advice??? Thank you

[@cofee28]

I've done some rocking on old wood framing that I had to use fine thread because the wood was so dry and hard.

[@bencheevers6693]

If you're hanging a whole job that's regular wood studs and then you build some bulkheads with steel channel then you're still fine using the course thread on the bulkheads, at least I think that's fine, what do you think?

[@sylvainplante9882]

Thanks Ben! I needed that cause I did the mistake of using self tapping screws on a thin metal stud. I’ll fix this if it’s not too late. And on an other topic, I came across this question today; what difference between spackle and regular mud used on wall baseboard to fill nails holes? Cheers

[@detenator890]

So recently I attached a sheet of 3/4 birch ply to the inside wall of my trailer. I believe it had light gauge steel studs. I used the self tapping screws. Would you recommend going back and adding the fine thread screws to be safe?

[@sanderd17]

I've noticed that the screw manufacturer matters a lot too. The cheaper screws I've found weren't made to the same quality, and many of the screws in the package didn't have a point sharp enough to bite into the stud. Also, that package had an awful lot of crooked screws, which sucks if you only notice it after getting the hole started.

[@vancouvercarpenter]

Cheap screws suck. Especially cheap fine thread screws.

[@als1023]

same experience

[@freeclimbmtb]

What about screw length for metal studs? I get why you would want “an inch thicker than the panel thickness to have at least an inch of grip in a wood stud”, but for metal studs your “grip is the thickness of the metal gage…so as long as your out of the tapered part of the screw it shouldn’t matter (right??). Example, can I use a 1-1/4” fine screw to hang a 5/8” panel? It’s less than an inch but you still only have 0.030” of holing power in a 30mil steel stud. Soo….does the screw length matter with steel!?

[@wendellbergen6204]

Hello, thanks for making this video. I am working on a job where we are using resilient channels and 5/8" drywall, I have found that the fine thred screws nearly always strip out before there fully embedded in the drywall, but course thread works most of the time. What are your thoughts?

[@vancouvercarpenter]

I will try to make a video about that soon but here's a little info. Don't screw into the factory bevel of the board. You will have to place screws outside of the recess where the board is softer. The compressed edge of the sheet is harder and the steel stud blows out before it can sink into the drywall and grab.

[@McCuneWindandSolar]

Do they make a screw for drywall where the back is flat or the head is a little bigger for better holding pressure and less punch through. Because it's a pain for hanging drywall on celling and the darn screws want to punch through.

[@MarPF]

Are 20 gauge steel studs considered light or heavy gauge metal in relation to the choice of screw? (sharp point vs self-drilling)

[@jorgenorman8715]

WOULD I USE THE COURSE THREAD IF IAM ATTACHING THE DRYWALL TO THE METAL STUD AND THE METAL STUD HAS WOOD BLOCKING FOR MOUNTING SAY A TANKLESS WATER HEATER? SO ESSENTIALLY WHAT SCREW WOULD I USE TO GO THROUGH ALL THREE; DRYWALL TO METAL STUD TO WOOD?

[@thesqueedler]

I used those fine thread screws and they almost never tapped into the metal before blowing out the hole in the drywall. I wish I had known the tip to start at or next to the track and go toward the middle, I bet that was the problem! I ended up making 1/16” pilot holes to solve the issue.

[@vancouvercarpenter]

Were you using a drywall drill or impact driver? Drywall drills handle steel stud like a champ. DIY style impact driving steel studs is way harder.

[@thesqueedler]

Yes, I was using an impact driver. I don’t own a drywall drill.

[@Redshark976]

Great videos you have, thanks for that. For this video I’m not really in for the story. The proof you use for the screws in WOOD, that shows that fine thread pulls uit easier than coarse thread is great to see, but, in both cases, the force that you apply to pull the screw out will never be on the drywall. You would rather break the drywall or pull the plate through the screwing hole than pulling the screw out. In either case it all depends on the application. Coarse thread is stronger than fine in wood but how relevant is that when the drywall is the weakest point. Maybe a beter test would be : Screw the drywall on a wooden frame with fine thread, coarse thread, selftappers and try to pull the plate off? I’ve been putting 2 drywall plates on top of each other and to make sure that the underlaying wooden studs don’t burst I’ve been using selftappers (4 years ago) and 0 problems, about 4000 screws with 0 of them not sinking in the wood. Coarse thread would increase the risk u breaking the wood I believe? Metal it seems a bigger problem with loose screws in the stud.

[@gannoli]

Can you use the fine threaded screws to mount shelfs to metal studs?

[@dottmanca]

What screws do you use for the framing, between two metal pieces?

[@thekareneason]

Thanks cleared up some questions

[@munsters2]

Why do they make 3" and 4" drywall screws? If you are not supposed to use drywall screws for structural work, but only for installing drywall, where would you ever use a 4" drywall screw?

[@dh-jx5yn]

That is all very interesting, but where do you pick up those Mom shorts?

[@vancouvercarpenter]

😂 Pfffft!!! Those are straight up Carhartt Dad Jorts! You need to get your facts straight!

[@rafsnale]

Now I know i juts install 6, 12 feet sheets with the wrong screws ( i used the one for heavy gauge metal studs). What do you recomend? Do I screw the right screw leaving the others in place, take off the wrong ones and use those holes for the right ones?

[@sharit7970]

excellent explanation!! Oh, and nice cameo from your cat...lol!

[@dgott7726]

Anyone know how rust-resistant these metal studs are? I'm planning to build a collapsible ice fishing shanty. The shanty will be stored outside, fully collapsed, when not in use....So it will definitely be exposed to the elements.

[@bornbehindbars2010]

In some commercial bathrooms I’ve remodeled I’ve seen them completely rusted out but I’m sure they’d have been getting wet for a long time for that to happen

[@thesqueedler]

No, They are water resistant, not meant to be wet a lot. Even stainless will eventually rust.

[@briankrouch430]

Thanks for the info Ben.

[@paulk9534]

Wobbly because you’ve more leverage as you left the screw longer maybe?

[@Matt-my7pz]

Nice video thank you man! Could you explain why self tappers and drywall nails are plated and regular drywall screws oil coated? I always just use whatever I got a bulk of which is usually fine threads screws, but I know what I should be using. Screwing through heavy gauge steel studs is always fun when you hit a hard spot with the self-tapper You even said heavy guage in the video haha nice! I was messaging as I was watching. Also I love wafer screws, usually always a reliable made screw. As an electrician they are a staple for commercial work.

[@EchoingPoet]

They coat screws, you know why , it’s basic protection from rusting, it Basically 2 totally different projections , I would choice silver one if our you , it’s much better Protection

[@tommycho9068]

Good information. Thank you.

[@staind288]

What about in wood though

[@이홍익-z9s]

What is mean gauge?

[@commandoconstruction2720]

Good info. Thanks for vid!

[@nopistonrwhp]

Coarse thread has better holding power. Do this again but use 5/8 drywall, you’ll notice the fine thread ones will strip

[@kevingraham9697]

Yep just went through this tnt...course thread was only screw holding 5/8

[@vancouvercarpenter]

It only strips for me when I try to fasten in the hardest part of the bevel.

[@patrickgreen9747]

No one…and I mean no one…wants a “sloppy screw”…!!! Great vid…

[@marcellemay7721]

A sloppy screw could be a good change of pace, occasionally.

[@kmonnier]

So much to know that I didn’t know I didn’t know.

[@Rob-mv7oj]

The cat won me over to click the like button 😆

[@dereckthompson1572]

Great info!

[@kmonnier]

Do you use 1 inch coarse thread in wood? Or longer?

[@dhammer5645]

In wood minimum of 1.25" coarse thread, unless you need the shorter length for a reason. Like screwing into thin strapping against masonry or concrete.

[@vancouvercarpenter]

Like D Hammer said. 1.25" coarse thread. One other place I will use 1" coarse thread is on pocket door framing so the screws can't go past the 3/4" wood and scratch the door as it slides.

[@dhammer5645]

@@vancouvercarpenter yes I forgot about pocket doors, maybe because I hate them.🙄

[@kmonnier]

Thanks

[@tonyc7352]

... There is one more, little-know drywall screw type you could cover - laminating drywall screws.

[@dtuer]

And for wood you need

[@micuzzu]

Coarse on woods fine on metal studs

[@TapelessDrywallFinishing]

👍👍

[@joshuam.6404]

I don't know anyone using steel studs. Wood is all I see.

[@EchoingPoet]

I use metal studs, I don’t use wood

[@VC-Toronto]

A lot depends on your region. I just helped a friend renovate a basement laundry room, and used a combination of wood and metal. Wood for the walls (to support upper cabinets) and metal to form the soffits and fur down the ceiling. (there were a raft of wires above the previous drop ceiling that we didn't want to (or were unable to ) reroute, so using metal furring strips gave that half inch to leave the wires mainly untouched. I like metal for soffits, as it stays nice and straight.

[@EchoingPoet]

@@VC-Toronto yeah, I like metal studs because they are Straight and easy to work, Also use wood but only calibrated and wetness Lvl 14% for walls, I use metal studs for hanging stuff as well because they can hold 550 pounds or 250 kg

[@100vg]

Not a bad job to have. You spend your days screwing around and get paid well for it. 😁 🤣😂🤣😂🤣

[@M30263]

See my full comment on your corner bead video. I walk in on my sub contractor using cup nails to attach metal corner bead to steel stud framing. 🤦‍♂️

[@vancouvercarpenter]

facepalm moment

[@M30263]

@@vancouvercarpenter Right? 20 years ago it would have been a facepalm… my hand his face!

[@mikev.1034]

🤙🤘

[@HotspotsSoutheast]

They all hammer in the same way.

[@vancouvercarpenter]

😂

[@warnerrobins8542]

I don’t mind a sloppy screw

[@vancouvercarpenter]

LOL. You wouldn't

[@EchoingPoet]

Does anyone in Canada uses metal studs for walls or framing Ceiling, it makes my laugh all the time , when people uses wood all the time ,when it not needed, of course they use Wet wood and then put Vapour barrier 😄😂

[@dhammer5645]

Where are you and what does your region use for the structure of a house?

[@EchoingPoet]

@@dhammer5645 Im from Lithuania but I work all over Europe right now , also I meet a lot of Americans here , they saying all the time , I worked in US over 5 years and they have low standards over there, it doesn’t work like that over here, vapour barrier installation is bad, they don’t understand how install metal stud wall or Ceiling, it’s insane that Americans and Canadians have such low standards , when comes to build houses

[@dhammer5645]

@@EchoingPoet That is your opinion of our standards. I disagree with it. For houses we don't build out of concrete or block typically. We frame the entire house out of lumber. The lumber used has to have a moisture content no more than 19% at the time of installation. Concrete and block can absorb moisture just as easily as lumber can. The vapour barrier is to stop warm moisture are from condensing inside the framed wall in winter. If you stop moisture moving from one temperature zone to another you stop it condensing. Condensing moisture causes rot and mold. It's all part of a building envelope and the science behind can get pretty deep. There is no difference between a property built wood frame house or a properly built concrete of block house. The only difference between the two is how drywall and other materials is attached to the structure.

[@EchoingPoet]

@@dhammer5645 yeah we build hoses from blocks , those blocks Equivalent R38 value, we insulate them with 20 or 30 cm insulation, Otherwise I wouldn’t pass air tightness test,witch should be blow 0,50 per hour ,25,7 kWh/m2).

[@vegetablesoup777]

ItS sElF dRiLlInG nOt SeLf TaPpInG... Sorry, flashbacks, sure you've heard it too lol

[@vancouvercarpenter]

I haven't.

[@brianhaygood183]

Boy, thanks. Nobody wants a sloppy screw.