Arcade Repair Tips - More Troubleshooting Monitors With Michael (Part Two)

[@TLBPappyBoyington]

Wow, all I can say is thanks guys! I'm the proud new owner of a vintage Robotron arcade machine, and I need to learn to repair it myself. I don't know a lot about electronics yet, just enough to hopefully keep me safe! My monitor has stopped working and from what I've gathered so far I think my flyback transformer has stopped working. Thanks again for the whole series you guys do, I'm only part way through watching them, much appreciated!

[@munaabraham3752]

Awesome job guys....It would be nice to show how to troubleshoot a dead CRT with a good known power supply. Thanks

[@chadbauch7970]

You guys are awesome!

[@TheRandomMechanic]

i have two monitor chassis's that are the same wells gardner 25k7401 they sell a kit for a k7400 but they dont have the right caps in them

[@TheRandomMechanic]

how much higher can a new cap be then the one it had i am not able to find replacement caps that are anywhere near what i have i have a 33uf 200v -40+105c and a 100uf 200v -40+105c both are blown radioshack doesnt carry anything near it they only carry low voltage ones and i am not able to find it online either the closest one is $50 the other is $25 they only sell the 30 at a time i cant find a cap kit for my chassis

[@noizey1ca]

Hey Guys I have a golden tee 2005 and after about 20minutes of play if you bump or hit down on machine too hard the color gets distorted and colors change and if you hit it again it comes back for a few minutes or till the next bump or hit of the machine. What can I check for or do you know the problem. Thank you

[@sheadstar]

Gday ive replaced fly back new fly has extra focus wire same model can I use this or do I need exact

[@arcadeattic]

My pengo arcade got real bright then no picture or sound the screen is white and there is hissing sound where do I check thought it would be a power supply but cant find a replacment help

[@keiranninjaspirit]

hi,just saw your arcade problem---when looking through here,if you hear hissing then you need to replace the flyback--it must be cracked,hope this helps.

[@crocellian2972]

I wish someone had told me to just follow the traces when I was a kid. My training was hardcore EE stuff. Our rule one was follow the voltage. I wasted so much time doing that. Very good advise to follow the circuit. I would have been scope probing that board for hours. The 10 uF thing is real. They simply don't have the physical mass to handle any heat from surrounding components. They will take their own heat, but not heat from anything else. Bigger caps can handle surround heat much better. Both the mass and the height allow them to cool. Typically, on boards I don't get to layout, I will go in and add some heat sinking to components near these little guys. If you layout your own boards, protect those 100 uFs. I personally only replace caps with 105 C parts. If the 85 C part failed, the next one will too. Up the heat range and look for a way to sink some heat near the little guys. All this applies to load resistors on PSUs. They are almost always the cause of complete failure (when the main storage caps have not blown up like little time bombs that they are). Heat sink them when you can.

[@TheRandomMechanic]

both monitors show no video at all one monitor chassis is making a ticking noise the other does nothing at all one has 3 bad caps one is peeled like a banana the other is swolen and the other one is burned to a crisp