Waste Oil Burner - Improvements - by VOGMAN

[@Brabbo-55]

I couldn't agree more Russell, excellently explained videos by Geoff, so clear and easy to understand, A big Thank you to all these guy's and the videos, They are fab.

[@Markds181]

Just finished building mine a couple days ago and the plaster/mortar has set for 24+ hours. To keep the tube central I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 in three places 120 degrees apart and measured from the tube to the hex head making them all the same. Then I packed the mortar and plaster mix. I left the bolts in; no need to remove. Going out to fire mine up for the first time.

[@vogman]

That's great. Thanks for sharing : )

[@scamper_van8470]

after having seen another video about oil burner and foundry i suggest you to switch to an oil container with lid and something to place under the container to warm it up a cooking hob,so the oil when reach the furnace will ignite faster. with my patience some time is very short and having seen many videos of oil burners surely for my melting i will use yours coz many are too complex.. and as u said in the previous video most of the times important details are missing..yours is quiet simple and parts can be found all over my house.. thanks for sharing both videos i really appreciate.. big hello from italy a newbie on DIY

[@vogman]

Great to hear from you Ludo. Thanks for your input my friend.

[@keithjohnson3275]

Enjoyed that VOG, if i can make suggestion. As a home brewer (beer) i use propane and to try and regulate the gas is not easy so if you put a on/off valve before the gate valve you leave the gate valve preset for normal running rather than having to monitor it every time you use the furnace. Good luck

[@vogman]

Thanks for the input Keith : )

[@shexdensmore]

Totally forgot i commented on this. It would be a good idea to get a high temp thermometer for this, that way you can say for sure if the extra airflow is really increasing the temp or not. You may just be drawing more fuel in and not necessarily burning hotter, making it a richer flame and actually keeping it cooler.

[@glumpy10]

Glad you found the suggestions useful. It certainly made a difference. Very Novel approach with this burner and it works very will in the furnace. I would think you could probably go to copper and brass melt temps with that setup. Well Done! I'm going to try and do a vid of my against the grain veg oil conversion today. Have a look when it's up and tell me what you think. It's not the traditional conversion that for sure. :0)

[@cryoine7194]

thanks for sharing this, this will be the basis for my furnace, I was going to use charcoal because most of the oil burners I have seen use a compressor and need too much to get it going but I will be making some modifications to your design since copper tubing is so expensive here

[@ockyoz]

Hi Geoff. Like ya upgraded vacuum intake. And yes I think we all like Oil Burner's safety tips. All the best

[@vogman]

+OCKY OZ Many thanks : )

[@roberto.cavanagh5022]

Neat!! Well thought out for its simplicity .....Am flattered, but Kudos to you . Love it.

[@vogman]

+Roberto .Cavanagh Credit where it's due my friend. That's what I love about KZbin... sharing ideas. Thanks again.

[@pirreli5]

repeatedly watching this vog, how about a glow plug from the scrapyard? would it ignite?

[@VukVlahovic]

REALY, WAS PLEASURE LOOKING THIS PRESENTATION. THANK YOU. WONDERFUL IDEA.

[@ludditeneaderthal]

improvement, but you can get far more by doing what they said, and allowing the air to enter at the rear. as you have basically made the plug reasonably permanent, just cross drill a couple of 12mm holes through the outer pipe, air pump side of your "nozzle". you'll chew through the pipe wall, and pocket out the sealer/packing mix. your venturi siphon as you have it works, but at reduced efficiency. your siphon is in the EXPANDED portion of the pipe, so even that couple of mm travel allows speed reduction, and with it pressure increase over the ideal siphon point (which is actually mid taper between air feed pipe diameter and the root of the nozzle diameter, right where they put the spray nozzles in carb venturis). by having the air inlets behind the nozzle, you get a bit of siphon (about the same as your position), but you also take advantage of one of the invisible gremlins that lurk in fluid dynamics, pressure wave characteristics. pressure waves have 3 actual pressure zones, the leading edge (where pressure is highest, the energy of overcoming the inertia of the atmosphere it rams into), the actual pressure zone itself, and the trailing edge, where a rarification forms (partial vacuum). you can demonstrate this if you like, just pull the muffler off a 2 stroke moped, and idle it very slowly. that ""pippety-POP" you hear is the front, wave proper, and trailing edge passing the end of your pipe. that reduced pressure wave actually runs up the pipe toward the exhaust port (which is how an expansion tank gives a 2 stroke best power at a specific engine speed, or range, by tuning harmonic "pipe ends" to suck exhaust down the pipe). the only "pipe end" your design sees is the fire pot end of the burner (where the expansion of combustion negates it). place the air inlet behind the nozzle, that "suction wave" draws air through them, very handily. now, technically, the output of you little pump is actually a series of pulses. each of those pulses causes a "pippety-POP" at your nozzle tip, but the venturi will actually prevent much of the negative front from propagating down the nozzle. that means the vast majority is either scavenging nothing (because the expansion post venturi proper "cheats it away", just like venturi efficiency), or sucking at your plug (which gets a constant hammering from the expansion wave that follows). that whole long winded explanation is how the WW2 V2 buzz bomb's pulse jets worked (and the pipe scavenging even allows valveless versions to work). scavenge your air behind (from flow POV) a discharge nozzle, you get the best scavenging air flow, at least until you cheat with pumps and such, lol. if you look at steam injectors that fed water into boilers at pressure, you will see the same as i describe. yours isn't "wrong", of course, after all, it works, and is an improvement over before you did it. but, you can get even better results. just get that inconvenient inertia on your side, and the world is your oyster, lol

[@justinw1765]

Really interesting comment--thank you for sharing. I know this is a really old comment/post, but if you're still around, do you know of any good visual/diagram type resources outlining what you explained in the above? I'm having a bit of a hard time visualizing it, but want to understand better what you are saying.

[@whitebeard420]

Agree, I would love an updated video showing these improvements but that I could also hear.

[@nicanoryadan7579]

would also like to see a drawing of the improvements you are suggesting. thank you.

[@nicanoryadan7579]

@@justinw1765 do you have the diagram?

[@pirreli5]

got to get my head round this:)) ty great to see unselfish knowledge:)) be a great outdoor Chinese cooker:)

[@vogman]

I heard from one guy who used the burner to heat his workshop 😁😁😁

[@pirreli5]

@@vogman fantastic!! possibilities are endless, if you aspire to be a prime minister, you got my vote:))

[@vogman]

I once applied for a career in politics, but they found out I didn't have a criminal record, so that disqualified me 😁😁😁

[@pirreli5]

@@vogman these puppets fail to realise, they got to justify there life to our creator:)...good luck with that!!

[@russellpindar7717]

Nicely put together video explaining well the improvements made and, more importantly, why they were made. Also, you have a great "voice-over" voice ;-)

[@vogman]

Many thanks

[@omarkhamis5028]

great video. if you insist on having the MDF disk on the side of the steel pipe you could drill some holes (in a centrifugal pattern) perhaps it could help make some turbulence that could help mixing the oil mist... ohh I did not see that some one made essentially the same comment 4 years ago

[@logans4329]

thanks roberto and oil burner it helped my design a lot

[@creative27feb]

Thanks, Happy 👏👍

[@vogman]

Welcome 👍

[@nomadpek]

Your oil burner videos gave me an idea: I should build one and use it first to heat up in my baking oven. I am very curious if it works well, but if it does I could reduce my costs and the environimental footprint too. I would not heat oven with waste motor oil, because the burning additives and other not too healthy materials are dangerous for food (bread) prepared in the oven, but I am not afraid of vegetable oil even if it is waste oil.

[@vogman]

Hi Nomadpek. Anything that saves money and helps the environment has got to be good. I've had a few people tell me they've adapted the idea for various projects such as central heating. An oven is a new one and a good idea. Best of luck. Geoff

[@dolfinmagikpro]

I love this setup! Thank you! Just curious ... How hot will this actually get? Can it be used to forge steel? Will it melt Copper? Brass? Bronze? Keep up the great work! Have a better day!

[@vogman]

It's melted copper, so yes, nice and hot.

[@ronyerke9250]

I know another way to get the chimney effect, but it's very similar to what has already been suggested. Here it is: replace the wood disc with a drilled pipe cap. It's easier if your pipe still has threads on that end. Put 1 large hole in the center for the copper tube, and multiple smaller holes all around. Angle the small holes for that Venturi effect also afore mentioned. I like that a steel cap is much less likely to combust if something goes wrong. If it's possible that you could get too much chimney effect, you could add a ball valve to the chimney that you came up with to control the flow. How hot does your chimney get in that location?

[@vogman]

Hi Ron. I did experiment with cutting holes in the wooden disk and experienced a problem. I think too much air was getting in. In the end I abandoned the exercise. The chimney certainly gets hot enough to burn skin but is cooler than folks imagine. A lot of people ask if the copper melts or even the plastic clips. The answer's no as they're outside of the foundry and whilst there's a certain amount of conduction, it's not that hot : )

[@AS-ug2vq]

I made it and it works, can you show how much oil is trickled into this furnace? What's the flow rate?

[@vogman]

Go sloooooooowly. If it dribbles, it's probably too fast. It takes a bit of fiddling, but it works, honestly 😁

[@tracychapman1000]

Thank you for sharing these interesting advices with us i found your video more clear and there is no complications in the process i want to know if i can use diesel with the same burner ? also which is better as fuel in order to reach high degree of heat is it diesel, petrol, waste oil ?thanks very very much sir .

[@vogman]

+tracychapman1000 Hi Tracy. Thanks for your kind comments. I’m not sure I have any definite answers for you, just a lot of guesswork mostly… Could you use diesel? I suppose so, yes. It’s a fuel source after all. But would you want to use it? I don’t think so. I’d have safety concerns. The thing with veg oil, or motor oil, etc, is that they don’t actually burn that well. Throw a lit match into a bucket of veg oil and the match will go out. Throw a lit match into a bucket of diesel and the chances are the diesel vapours will ignite in a plume of fire… not a good thing if you’re working next to it. Which is hotter? Actually I don’t think the fuel matters so much. I think it’s all about containment. Remember the Fire Triangle: fire = heat + oxygen + fuel. You need all three for fire. Now think of an ordinary barbecue. With the lid up, it’s hot. With the lid down it’s even hotter as the heat gets trapped and concentrates in the small space. Now if we blast in some air from a blower, it will get hotter still as there’s increased oxygen. But the charcoal will burn out quickly, so you need more fuel… but the idea is you CAN get an ordinary barbecue to reach very high temperatures by introducing a lid, more air and a steady supply of fuel. That’s what you see me doing in my video. My little foundry is very well insulated and contains the heat excellently. It’s also got a lid to retain even more heat. With the blower and the steady fuel source, I can get probably hot enough to melt copper (I haven’t tried yet). If I wanted to get even hotter, I’d look at more air and more fuel. I wouldn't bother changing the fuel type. Anyway, I’ll stop waffling. I hope this helps… but personally I’d play it safe and stick with oil my friend.

[@tracychapman1000]

Geoff at VegOilCar really i don't know how to thank you for the time you took to answer my questions i found that so kind from you friend after thinking about the exemples you gave to me and the explanation of the nature of each material (fuel) i think that i forget to think about safety i understand now the difference between each fuel type to feed fire in the case of a foundry i'll start working on my waste oil burner the way you did on your video and following your instruction there and here on your comment i am always waiting for new videos and stuff here on your channel thanks for every second you spend from your time to share with us your knowledge and advices .

[@vogman]

+tracychapman1000 No problem. Happy to help.

[@kevincoatney6691]

I'm just an amateur but another alternative could be to drill several holes around the still tube just behind the nozzle and in front of the concrete mixture. your solution was easier but if you have a drill this could be cheaper. hope this helped!

[@vogman]

+Kevin Coatney (Bean14) I don't believe in amateurs my friend. I believe in enjoying the learning experience... coming up with ideas and listening to other ideas like yours. Thanks for the input. It's certainly welcome and relevant. I can see how it would work. Best wishes, Geoff

[@ronyerke9250]

At 1 point in your vid, you mention that it is best to limit the number and sharpness of bends in your oil feed line. I noticed you use a 90 degree elbow just past where your braided line joins the copper. Wouldn't a 45 or 30 degree bend work better?

[@vogman]

Hi Ron. To be honest I don't think I explained things very well in the video. When I was talking about avoiding bends, I was referring purely to the flexible pipe. Because it's flexible, it can sag and dip, creating pooling inside the pipe and altering flow. So when I talking about avoiding bends it was for that reason. In truth this really is a very basic oil burner design - and that was the plan. I wanted to show that simple can very often work - and it does here : ) As long as the oil enters the burner is a continuous, slow and controllable manner, it will work. Hope this makes sense.

[@ronyerke9250]

Yes, it does. TY.

[@shexdensmore]

here's another idea, drill some 1/8in or 6mm holes around the main air inlet to increase the airflow even more. And if easily possible drill the holes at a sligt angle to creat a cyclone effect to further mix the oil vapors. I would start with one hole and make the next one as concentric as possible. The only problem that i can think of that will happen wjth additional air or too much air is that you start to make an oxidizing flame (not good) that will put an oxide layer on the molten metal prematurely. The only way i know of to test the flame is to put a piece of regular steel in it until it gets red hot and watch to see if it scales up really bad, if it does, then it's oxidizers. however, with the charcoal in the foundry, it may not happen and increase the temperature even higher.

[@vogman]

Thanks for sharing those great ideas. Much appreciated : )

[@shexdensmore]

VegOilGuy your welcome

[@jasonburguess]

It seems to me like what you have made there is essentially a carburetor, so why not use an actual carburetor, a large one from some old used engine, this would allow good atomization of the fuel and good Venturi effect, as long as the carburetor is far enough away from the heat so as not to be damaged. I'd recommend maybe an old slide style carburetor off of a snowmobile or possibly a one from a large motorcycle or large equipment engine, this would function exactly the same as it did on the engine, except it would be delivering fuel to your forge

[@michaelphillips832]

I would add a valve on the up air pipe to control the temperature. some what like a damper on a wood burning stove.

[@vogman]

Good suggestion. Thanks.

[@timb8930]

@@vogman I am wondering how far Should the air pipe go inside the other tube. And about how long are the pipes

[@s11ddaniels]

What's your point in bringing up the compressor during the last section of the video? I have a heavy duty compressor so I'm wondering if there's some advantage to using it. Also, why do you choose to use copper pipes of iron or steel pipes to drip the oil/air for the burner itself? I would think the copper would be less efficient since it won't last as long as the iron and steel over time?

[@vogman]

There's a lot of oil burner designs out there that make use of a compressor so DO look them up. A compressor makes easy work of vaporising the oil which makes it much easier to burn (mixing in lots of air). As I haven't got a suitable compressor I had o look for an alternative. The copper doesn't get hot enough to suffer from any kind of heat damage and as I already had some lying around, I used it. Simple as that. I like to use whatever I have to hand. Hope this helps. best wishes, Geoff

[@s11ddaniels]

Cool, thanks. I'll test a few methods out then.

[@s11ddaniels]

Want me to tape each method and message you the link when they're uploaded? It may be a few weeks before I find refractory for a decent price that I can afford lol.

[@s11ddaniels]

Also, I had a question for the refractory. The link below is the cheapest I've found for 3000 degree F (1650 C roughly), is $20 for a half gallon and free shipping for me if I buy a gallon. Do you know of any better deals than that, and is this stuff going to work right do you know? www.amazon.com/MEECOS-RED-DEVIL-610-Refractory/dp/B00ACIWN9Q/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ACIWN9Q&pd_rd_r=AV2Y2XD7SE0VR2GNJTQ6&pd_rd_w=Rj8mk&pd_rd_wg=EijS0&psc=1&refRID=AV2Y2XD7SE0VR2GNJTQ6

[@vogman]

Sorry, we're in different parts of the world my friend so I can't help you with a shopping link, but it sounds like you've already got the right idea in mind : )

[@ganeshgawali9437]

Very nice video

[@vogman]

Thanks

[@Didact04]

I find this model fascinating, but I find myself concerned about the prospect of overheating pipes. Do they make steel pipes with the same dimensions as the copper ones you've used?

[@vogman]

To be honest I don't know what dimensions are available. I will reassure you though that the placement of the copper pipes means they don't get anywhere near hot enough to risk melt or even distortion. It's surprisingly difficult to reach those kind of temperatures and that's why we go to the trouble of containment / refractory / insulation, etc. The very tip of the steep pipe inside the foundry gets a beating, but being steel copes well. The copper are fine. Hope this helps : ) Geoff

[@Stardifter21]

Quick question, i was wondering if used fry oil will also work or if it is the same thing. No hurry just wondering.

[@vogman]

Yes : ) Same thing as far as I'm concerned... veg oil, cooking oil, fry oil. There's also peanut oil, olive oil, castor oil, coconut oil... You should read about the origin of the diesel engine some time. The original diesels ran on a food based oil (common believed to be peanut oil, though there's some debate). If you can get it for free all and recycle it, all the better.

[@tomharrell1954]

Bloody good show !

[@ArjayMartin]

does the veneer of plastic/lacquer in the soda can hamper your casting?

[@vogman]

I'm sure I read somewhere once that there's only 60& aluminium in a soda can, or something like that. There's other coatings and of course paint. These burn away and leave a papery layer on top of the molten metal that gets scrapped off. This is commonly referred to as 'slag' or 'dross'.

[@jakewise2033]

I am wondering about the tin bucket with the oil in it what to do there do you tap it and screw a fitting in?

[@vogman]

Hi Jake. Thanks for your question. I guess there's lots of ways of doing this and mine may not be the best... but it fitted with what I had to hand on that day ; ) Explaining could take ages and still never really get the message across so I've extracted some stills from an unused section of recording and placed these images on my website for you. You can see these images here: vegoilcar.co.uk/burner/bucket.php Hopefully these close ups will make things a little clearer. If you still have any questions, just drop me a line. Best wishes, Geoff

[@herenow2895]

Hi, I use a Coleman stove that has the fuel feed pipe going through the flame to pre heat and vapourise the fuel. Would there be any advantage to doing this with a waste oil burner ? I also have a Sheen flame gun that works on the same principle, with a coiled feed pipe going round the flame. Once the coiled pipe gets up to heat, it almost turns into a rocket.

[@vogman]

Thanks for your question. It's an interesting idea... I run my car on Veg Oil and I know the oil is pre-heated before going into the injectors. I think on MY oil burner, it probably wouldn't be beneficial, but only because my design is so basic. It relies more on the foundry being hot enough to ignite the oil than the other way round. BUT heating oil does thin it and make it more fluid, meaning it's easier to spray - which is a common approach of many oil burner designs. So I think you may have the makings of your own design happening there : ) Good luck and best wishes, Geoff

[@herenow2895]

To have it hot, to the point of almost vaping would bring it close to its flash point and presumably aid more efficient burning ?

[@vogman]

Should do, yes. If I remember my schoolboy physics it's the fire triangle - heat, fuel and oxygen. Remove any one and there's no fire. Get them in just the right mix and you've got a blaze on your hands. It takes heat to start the burner but once it's going, it feeds itself.

[@ke6bnl]

Just another question has any one tried to make a burner from a sandblaster set up. instead of pulling up siphoning sand it would draw up the oil and disperse it with the air.

[@colinwilson210]

are you using regular off the shelf pre-soldered joints there, I thought it might have run too hot to use them ?

[@vogman]

Hi Colin. Yes, just regular fittings. The point is the copper pipe doesn't get that hot. It might burn you or me, but it's nowhere near hot enough to melt the fittings. Most of the heat should stay inside your foundry. If it's well insulated and the hole for the burner not too loose then the copper piping doesn't become an issue. At one point I used plastic cable clips to firmly grip the piping... they never melted. Hope this helps. Geoff

[@colinwilson210]

VegOilGuy thanks for the info, this is the easiest burner I've found yet - now to sneak an order past the missus for a cheap air pump ! ;-p

[@mambo2359]

Hi Geoff.Great setup what you have done here! I will try to make one similar and your opinion would be very welcome. I want to use it in a rocket stove (I'm sure you know what is a rocket stove).So ,the burner will be placed in the feeding chamber, exactly in front of the burning chamber.The burning chamber is made with fire bricks and the rise tube also.Now ,about the oil flow rate ,could this be a drop by drop or it must be a constant thread? Also I would like to use a smaller fan,kind of computer fan,mounted closer to the burner.Will this produce enough air flow? I don't need foundry temperatures...Maybe I will have some other questions but for the moment that's all what passing through my mind.I hope my ''hocus-pocus'' English is understandable and you can get an idea of what I have and what I want to do.

[@mambo2359]

yup yup...how to light up without charcoal?Propane torch ?

[@mambo2359]

here is a rocket stove ,very similar to mine,if you want to take a look.Yes ,I like the idea to use many tipes of fuels in the same stove ;kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIPSZ4h8dsuDf9E

[@vogman]

Hi Mambo. Your English is excellent my friend. The oil needs to be a constant thread - but not too much. The finest thread you can manage is probably ideal. A computer fan? I can't imagine that being powerful enough. It's no really about supply air, it's more using the air to push the thread of oil apart, making droplets like fine rain. I have to say, the rocket stove is new to me. It's nice to learn new things. I could definitely see this simple oil burner providing plenty of heat, but maybe too much in fact. In a confined space the heat builds up enough to melt soft metals. But maybe you could figure out a way to use it. Thanks for your comments. Geoff

[@mambo2359]

Thanks ,Geoff! You pinned exactly what I needed to find out about air and oil flow rate.I have not built a waste oil burner yet,will be the first one,that's why I need to make my homework. I'd like to combine this horizontal burning with the drip feed,that's what I try to earn.So,finaly, these are simple devices ''on the evil eye'' :)

[@masondavis5705]

I built an oil burner recently with a similar design to yours but I used a shot vac for the air supply and I couldn't get the oil to ignite I didn't know if its the shot vac is too powerful or if its something else

[@vogman]

Hi Mason. It could be too powerful, yes... it's a fiddly process. The most important thing with my design is to make sure the foundry is hot to begin with. A good charcoal fire can easily and quickly achieve that. After that the oil SPITS in... you're looking for fine droplets like light rain. These hit the already hot surfaces and combust. I bought a leaf blower a while back and used that. I found it was too powerful. Here's the very brief video.. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKDEaJJjac2AjKs I've never really understood why too much air spoiled the process but it did for me. Fortunately the very crude but simple valve I showed in the original video (and a little in the above vid) dialled down the power a treat. It's well worth making something similar. I believe it will really help you. I will say this... don't expect an immediate result. It could take 10 or 15 minutes of fiddling with tiny adjustments to the air and oil before it works. Then suddenly you're there. The next time it will probably take you 5 minutes... the time after that, 1 minute. We learn. As your build and mine aren't the same (they can't be unless we have the exact same fittings) all I can do is assure you it does work. Persevere, make small adjustments into a hot foundry and you WILL get there : )

[@masondavis5705]

Thanks for the help

[@masondavis5705]

how how can these oil burners get?

[@vogman]

How hot? I don't know to be honest. In a well insulated foundry they're pretty good... I've had success melting copper. That's not a very scientific answer but I hope it helps.

[@carlwalker7560]

@@vogman I have a book by someone called "The Artful Bodger" who uses a waste oil burner to melt cast iron, so it can certainly supply plenty of heat! He uses a more complicated burner that pre-heats the oil, and a more powerful air supply, so it looks to me that the more air and fuel you can get into the furnace, the hotter it will run.

[@johnsharp9769]

Can you use store bought vegetable oil?

[@vogman]

Yes, shop bought oil is fine.

[@ronaldtremblay4304]

Will your foundry melt steel?

[@vogman]

Hi Ronald. I've never tried steel. I did have a guy write to me a few weeks back saying he was using my oil burner to melt iron in a VERY well insulated foundry. And I guess that's the secret - if you've got a well insulated foundry that will trap and accumulate the heat, then it MAY be possible. I think I might be tempted to use a couple more of these burners if I tried. Hope this helps. Geoff

[@avishaishitrit]

thank you very mutch

[@vogman]

+‫אבישי שטרית‬‎ Happy to share ; )

[@gordonferrie4612]

great really good

[@vogman]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@lasaraungbakri7386]

Can it melt iron/steel?

[@vogman]

I did have one guy write in and saying he was using this burner for iron, but his forge was very well insulated.

[@alanharding8762]

good stuff still good.

[@vogman]

Thanks Alan : )

[@jakekimds]

Does the oil fire smell bad?

[@vogman]

Hi Jake, no it doesn't. At low temperatures an oil fire is smoky and smelly, but once the temperature rises there's no odour or visible smoke that I can detect. Hope this helps. Best wishes, Geoff

[@jakekimds]

VegOilGuy Thanks. I lit charcoals with lighter fluid once, and it smelled horrible.

[@SomethingFromTheShed]

Hey buddy. Hows it going ? I love your idea of waste oil burner. Is the oil sourced from old chip shops and then left to settle and seperate ? Also can it melt copper ? Thats a big must for me, could you try it. Oh i have an idea for you as you love to make things but il email you over that one buddy

[@vogman]

Hi Shed. Chip shops rarely use veg oil - they use something called solid block. You can usually get it for free from independent pubs, restaurants, cafes, Chinese & Indian restaurants, etc. Don't bother with Brewery owned pubs and chain food stores (McDonalds, etc) as they already have an infrastructure in place to get rid of their oil. To be honest, for running a DIY foundry, you're better off collecting your personal cooking oil plus that of friends and family. It soon adds up. Generally businesses want regular pick-ups. Does it do copper? Yes... I failed a bit in this video thanks to poor insulation but you can still see it - kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoukgJ-Da655q7M - I've heard from other guys running my burner in very WELL insulated foundries that are apparently working steel. I'll look out for your email mate. Probably be next week now though ; )

[@alexanderpenney7302]

How hot does this burn?

[@vogman]

Hi Alexander. I can't say for sure as I've never tested it but I have melted copper so that's around 1100c. The most important factors to me are the foundry and the insulation. Generating heat is pointless if you can't contain it. A guy wrote to me a few weeks ago saying he was melting iron with my veg oil burner in a VERY well insulated foundry. Whether he meant melting iron or simply working iron (heating and bending) I'm not sure, but it's still impressive for such a simple device. Hope this helps : )

[@alexanderpenney7302]

VegOilGuy ok, thanks for letting me know. Much appreciated

[@jimbridger2416]

Could you use kerosene instead of oil

[@vogman]

Thanks for your question. I haven't tried kerosene but I would urge caution. It's a highly flammable material and therefore volatile. Veg oil IS NOT very combustible. That's why it's so safe to use. You could throw veg oil on a small fire to put it out - not that I'd recommend it : ) Whether you experiment or not is of course down to you, be do be VERY careful. High temperatures and volatile liquids could results in an explosive combination... not ideal. Best wishes Geoff

[@jaredsilverman6309]

How is this carbon neutral if you are burning oil?

[@vogman]

Hi Jared, It's carbon neutral because I'm burning Waste Vegetable Oil that's been recently grown. It's all about WHEN the carbon is stored... As the rape seed grows it stores carbon and as it's burned it releases carbon. But as it stores and releases carbon in a short time frame it's considered carbon neutral. Coal, for example, also contains carbon but this carbon was trapped within it millions of years ago. Burning it now releases the carbon "out of its time" if that makes sense, which leads to an excess of carbon in the atmosphere - which leads to global warming. Get the idea? It's all about WHEN the carbon was stored. That's why growing trees and burning logs is carbon neutral, but burning coal (a fossil fuel) isn't. Hope this helps : ) Geoff

[@luigiprovencher]

Is there a fan less or electricity free version of this?

[@vogman]

If you want to go old school, out ancestors would have used bellows...

[@luigiprovencher]

@@vogman Okay thanks. I'm a scrapper and want to melt down stuff that's hard to or impossible to process manually and I have to do it outside and where it's not really convenient to run electricity.

[@vogman]

I understand. This burner is a low tech approach but I'm not certain it would work with a bellows... maybe two bellows so a constant stream of air could be generated...

[@luigiprovencher]

@@vogman Okay. Thanks. I'll look into it.

[@luigiprovencher]

@@vogman Check out Sek Austria DIY Waste Oil Burner if you haven't already. It might help you improve your own or give you some ideas.