Vevor Diesel Heater Review and Advice

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VEVOR 5KW Diesel Air Heater 12V
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[@brainiac_brian]

I have one. Route the intake inside and reduce fuel consumption by 50%. mount your fuel pump to a piece of pool noodle and the noise will stop. and, a stick of 3/4 inch electrical conduit fits perfectly to extend the exhaust. Have fun! I love mine!

[@daviddollard3845]

Absolutely

[@dustyb57]

I am installing mine now in a Old Prevost tour bus

[@able880]

That's good information

[@justthinkalittle8913]

this is a great reply. thnaks dude.

[@1969darr]

Absolutely. How people do not realize this.

[@NotMeeither]

Those heaters are supposed to mount inside and the burn air intake and exoust go outside. With the heater inside it is pulling in inside air to heat so it is more efficient than what You are seeing because You are always heating cold air.

[@redneckcomputergeek]

Agreed that is the best possible setup.

[@ayliniemi]

I don't trust them enough to mount inside my house. Yes they aren't meant for houses but some of us need temporary solutions. You could pull fan and burner intakes from the inside of the house. I have mine in a semi insulated barrel with vent lines insulated running into my house. Not pretty, but one could make cosmetic changes if they were clever.

[@timrek53]

I don't think the mounting outside is an issue, and it does help with noise, but yes, the air intake from indoors helps in many ways, stops odors, drafting and allows the unit not to have to work as hard so you can run on lower settings helping with fuel usage.. good points!

[@tannermartin7263]

Or route a cold air return to basement

[@Icutmetal]

@@ayliniemiWhat don’t you trust about them?

[@twboegel2918]

Leave your exhaust be. If you direct that exhaust upwards you're going to collect water. Route your intake air from inside your house as has been mentioned. Thanks for sharing.

[@jerkofalltrades5430]

Neat unit, good idea adapting a vehicle heater to heat a house. And yes, get that exhaust up above the air intake bc that is a seriously large Carbon Monoxide risk as it is. Even better would be to run the air intake into the house, no risk of CO and you'll get much warmer air plus no cold air coming in while it starts up

[@Sparkyspage]

It needs to be pointed down so to drain out moisture or the exhaust will rot. Maybe a longer pipe?

[@lordgarth1]

It does need to point down to drain moisture but he should be drawing his air from inside the house as well not the colder outside air. The combustion air intake is fine outside.

[@bmw328igearhead]

CarbonMonoxide sinks more than air... if you put the exhaust above the intake, you are more likely to suck in the "falling" exhaust... Exhaust should be the lowest point in the system. Vent Hole in the muffler should point down. Muffler outlet should point sideways. The point of not leaving it anywhere close to UP, is so rain water and condensation can't form a puddle in the exhaust.

[@stevehei8035]

Run a little Marvel Mystery Oil in the diesel fuel to help clean the combustion chamber from time to time.

[@TalosIO]

There is a small hole in one side of the small exhaust muffler. This is a moisture drain-hole The Muffler needs to be oriented as you have it but vertical so that hole is at the bottom. This will then let collected moisture drain out and with luck no vapour expelled when starting up. Also check out videos on ideas for reclaiming more heat from the exhaust tube to get even more economy :)

[@sellC1964]

The air intake should be connected to the room to be even more efficient and to eliminate the exhaust smell.

[@wickedonez4u]

I saw that, his exhaust blows all around the outside of the house, then gets sucked in his intake air port.

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

You are right about the startup issue, but as long as your air intake is inside the space you are heating, it doesn't actually reduce the temperature at all.

[@timrek53]

Correct, and it stops any drafting

[@MoonWalkersbin]

it is not an issue but a useful feature for safety. one thing that the creator did not know about it.

[@tirregrelleumekuk3635]

Lower your fuel tank so flow can't happen as result of gravity. This might fix the start up smoke problem

[@garymichalski5197]

Be careful running exhaust upward and can build-up moisture in the bottom of the pipe. But you should be drawing air from in the house not outside

[@terrycainarmit1982]

I would never of thought a 25 w solar panel would of been enough to maintain it. Nice set up 👍

[@PhonePhone-sf8te]

it really isn't unless you're only using it for maybe 4 hours a day. They start off on about 150 watts but then go down to 40w. If you wanted to really be sure you had the battery at 100% it would be much better to have around 100w, it's really not much more expensive than the 25w.

[@5toolman6]

A really good channel about these Diesel Heaters is "John McK 47".

[@coolcashclips]

I've just had a great idea I think, if you put the hotblow pipe onto a copper water cylinder coil, full of water, it will eventually heat the water and heat Room at same time

[@MattsMadnessOfficial]

I have been using these things for many years, after 1 year of use the bearings in the motor get dry, you can re oil them if you take it apart soak them in trans fluid works great they don't like running on any setting but high or they fill with carbon and unburnt fuel , they like clean fuel waste oil any mix of oil is a no no incomplete burn and carbon in the primary swirl chamber that is very hard to clean out,had very good and very bad luck with these things lol but still use them every year

[@longboy1998]

I heat my house with one but mine is mounted with the heater inside and the rest outside works great

[@FirstSuiGeneris]

You can do all kinds of things to make your heater work and run better. Your setup could be better, I hate to tell you. I see a lot of problems. I have installed many of these heaters for customers in custom applications. And use them myself for my trailer, home, and back shop.

[@RedneckRepairs]

the air intake (air to be heated) should be routed to the inside as well, just like a normal home heater, so that you are reheating air instead of attempting to heat ice cold outside air. this will greatly increase your efficiency

[@leonobrega1418]

I tried that with a pellet heater and didn´t turn out so good. Pulling air from inside in turn pulled cold air from the outside into the home. Just my experience in my particular situation though.

[@Defundemorats]

@@leonobrega1418 ?

[@lordgarth1]

@@leonobrega1418 this is a heat exchanger just like a forced air gas furnace. The combustion intake and exhaust go outside but the air being heated cycles through the furnace by way of your returns and registers.

[@leonobrega1418]

@@lordgarth1 I think I might have read the OP comment incorrectly. Thanks for correcting me. They said that they wanted to reroute the air to be heated intake from outside to inside, which is correct. Sorry

[@eklepac1395]

Great video. You explain things well. I'm a rookie and I think I will try this heater. Question: What kind of battery is that? I think you said..."12 volt". Where did you purchase it? Can you give a link? I followed the other links to Amazon. Thanks again. Great video!

[@rhicks4492]

This is not a house heater it was made for the trucking industry the black body is supposed to be inside the cab pulling in inside air not out side air. This let's a truck driver shut off his or her truck and have a warm place to sleep at night in the winter. I am sure they never meant it to heat a house.

[@brainiac_brian]

You are correct. I heated my small house with it two Winters ago. I was amazed at how much it dropped my electricity bill. I live out in the country in an old small poorly insulated farmhouse. My unit was mounted outside but the intake was routed into the house as well. It's pretty amazing piece of equipment.

[@matthewlee2686]

Who cares what it's meant to be. It heats my home just fine.

[@terrellstewart4071]

Sorry your feeling are hurt but look how many other items have dual purposes. And I'm sure the companies aren't complaining with the profits plus look it gives the funds to help advance the product to be more efficient and effective.

[@jamesjohnson8661]

And you were made to procreate and work. Is that all you do? You're incorrect about it being inside and drawing inside air. The unit where combustion occurs should be outside, as should the intake. Thanks for spreading more bullshit misinformation

[@kd1010163]

I doubt your saving any money. Run a space heater in the same space. I'd bet electricity will be cheaper. Especially with $5 gallon diesel. This heater isn't magic.

[@bitzclipsmatt214]

If you pipe your inlet into the house also, this would allow the warm air inside to recirculate, It will run more efficient and also don't have to worry about the exhaust fumes coming into the inlet and then the house.

[@markluening7686]

I use a 12V power converter. Great way to go, no battery or charger to worry about. Cheap to buy and use.

[@ThunderDivine]

Thats a chinese clone, the design is german by Eberspächer. I had the original in my boat. It started after 20 seconds, ran it on kerosine. Always choose a smaller unit that u run on full. if not the glowplug will get full of sooth. - In my boat i seperated the intake air and cockpit air by hoses. Then the unit can sit somewhere insulated.

[@surfingcuriositywaves4046]

On your point about the fan running before the unit is putting out heat, there are some newer units that have the ability to program the fan separately. And there are some aftermarket controllers (The Afterburner) reviewed by youtuber David McLuckie that have other advanced features. If your air supply (not combustion air, but house air supply) is drawing 'less cold' air from inside the home, the trip through the cold and starting heater does remove some heat, but the resulting 'return air' is not as cold as if the supply is directly from a very cold outside. A low tech workaround is to devise an 'air valve' where your heated air enters the home, with a physical flap routing the return air outside during the startup phase. Important note for such air valves: If the air flowing over the heater is not allowed to move because you have somehow blocked the movement of air, you could have a dangerous buildup of heat inside the heater case and damage the electronic board and possibly cause fire. So be sure to create an air valve that never blocks the air from moving across the heater fins. Additionally, there is a great series on these heaters by Australian youtuber John McK 47 that covers a great deal of useful details on how these work and the ways to optimize a system. Good Video. Thanks.

[@TheTwistedStone]

Definitely have a second hole somewhere for an intake inside the house and turn the silencer 90 degrees, it has a hole in the edge to let out condensation and should be facing down.

[@jgq5]

I find it not properly installed, you should put the intake for the cold air inside the room not outside of the house

[@TheSmolik]

Try to put it on high altitude mode and it will run close or over 100h

[@pressurevessel8504]

Might want to try a cold air return from the bedroom to the heater and insulate it somehow go though less fuel. And run less. But keep us posted. 👍👍👍

[@pressurevessel8504]

Oh then you don’t have to move the exhaust

[@redneckcomputergeek]

Agreed I left it all laid out for the video. Looking at a few box ideas to put it in.

[@humourless682]

Worth remembering that anyone who is unlucky to have a fire in a vehicle or building which has one of these heaters installed, isnt insured. There are many videos covering these heaters, but not seen a single mention of no insurance cover?

[@larrylewis3778]

Ur pulling ice cold air from outside trying to heat it and blow it inside that's y its using alot of fuel

[@wildbill23c]

Something like that might work out in my shop for heat in the winter....yes, the startup on them is very slow, sometimes they never start at all, and is also another common complaint...however, most of the other videos on these where they're being so nice in their review is because they're being paid by the company they got it from to do the review, in exchange they get a free diesel heater. The cost on them isn't too bad, and that clicking fuel pump sounds exactly like the electric fuel pump on my tractor, they're pretty loud, but so is the fan they have in those heaters.

[@todamnbad]

would be more efficient and properly installed if you had the unit inside your living space with the exhaust vented outside, trying to heat cold outside air is costing you fuel

[@jasonkushneryk5649]

Pipe the intake into the house. U r heating ice cold air and it’s making the machine work harder and burn more diesel

[@MikeAndNary]

Would it make sense to have the inlet hose on the inside of the house, seeing that the air inside is already cleaner and warmer?

[@MickeyMishra]

They really like spiders and creppy crawlys in their home.

[@Vein1986]

Do not route exhaust up! You will soot combustion chamber. Also, taking air to heat from inside will make heater much much more efficient and you will not intake exhaust gasses inside home

[@redneckcomputergeek]

Been talking to a few trucker guys that use these all winter. The soot clean out is a known maintenance thing I will have to learn in the future.

[@Vein1986]

@@redneckcomputergeek yes it is, but directing exhaust up or extending it causes many issues with those units. I have one, so to educate myself,i have joined some fb groups for users and people were complaining that any kind of restriction causes soot buildup. Have in mind that exhaust gasses contains water vapor that condenses in long /up directed exhaust and will flow to lowest point.

[@coachgym]

I was careful to follow John Mck 47 instructions- much better to use the “hard” line from pump to heater & keep it short. One of my heaters only came with that sorter line - it is OK for connecting from tank to pump but use hard line on other side - here is one of his videos kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqfanoiVeMigfas I have two videos on my installation - here is the first one - kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4nInIyLfJ2kiMU Yes - I sure like mine 👍

[@ianbambury3717]

You have piped it up wrong, the inlet should be piped into the house, so it pulls from in the house. The exhaust must always run down hill. Because if you get any false starts the exhaust will fill full of diesel

[@terrellstewart4071]

I have two of those units in my cabins and in the Winter b4 bed I turn it on so I don't have to keep putting wood in my fireplace. It keeps the heat constant to 65-70 dry heat uses about 1/2- 1 gal a night depending on temp I bought a 12v to 110v converter so I can plug it in if need to. Great video. But you do need to cover the unit especially the fuel container it tends to Crack at the seams from u.v rays.and mounting it outside is best for the noise ... but don't turn the unit sideways you will have fuel burning issues later

[@WayneTheSeine]

Good review. As other have stated if your air intake were routed inside you would not only gain much greater fuel efficiency but it would also correct the problem of it pumping cold air in for the startup time. With the unit itself mounted indoors, the unit is always at room temperature. I can imagine where up North in extreme cold the units efficiency would be greatly effected by being directly exposed to the extreme cold. If you were installing in a very well sealed environment then the intake outside would make some sense as it would bring in fresh air. Here in the south, the heater would quickly become clogged with dirtdobber nest. The little assholes love plugging up everything. In our case, it only makes sense to mount the entire unit inside and port the exhast and exchanger intake outside....best of all worlds there. Plus the entire unit would be out of the weather.

[@alext8828]

By having outside air heated and injected into the bedroom, you are essentially pressurizing the bedroom and causing air to leave from where ever it can (the vent you mentioned).

[@dvoz9023]

Would not recommend you to put the muffler higher than the unit. Inside the exhaust some evaporated water condensate against the exhaust and that would eventually flood your heater I think. Better is to mount the intake what higher up.

[@Jason-fp8wn]

$5 a gallon of diesel, 2 and a half gallons for 25 to 30 hours of run time. $12.50 every 25 to 30 hours. That’s 24 tanks of fuel a month, $300 a month when it’s only a low of 33 degrees to heat 1 room. Doesn’t seem very cost effective to me. I understand there is a very specific use for those heaters but in a house doesn’t make sense to me. Many more cost effective ways to heat a room.

[@marzsit9833]

his system is not installed efficiently. if it was installed properly it would use much less fuel.

[@juliogonzo2718]

Even if he was recirculating and running on a lower 1.8hz setting, electric heat is still cheaper unless he's off grid. Definately a money saver in a vehicle if using to avoid idling. Last winter mine probably saved more than what I paid for it just sitting in front of a laundromat on my day off one day a week for 1.5-2 hours. Maybe burned 3/4 of the 10L tank total for the 5-6 months I used it. Compare that to approx 86L of gas to idle for 39 hours. (0.6L per L of engine displacement per idle hour)

[@goldprounlimited1750]

I believe the start up fan run time is to evacuate any possible flammable vapors before heater ignition, common in a lot of HVAC units. Other than that looks like your going to make other changes for the better ! Thanks for sharing !

[@Icutmetal]

Diesel vapors??

[@spoonerfriend9034]

Would be much more efficient with the return piped and both supply and return insulated

[@JoelArseneaultYouTube]

Your heater will burn about 12.5 litres of fuel in 100 hours in the low setting .125 litres per hour. Even if you are not pulling air from the other side of the bedroom, you should be pulling air from inside, and definitely away from the exhaust. Exhaust that doesn't stink can still be deadly, and most people who die from CO poisoning die in their sleep. I currently run two of these heaters without any inlet or mufflers, and one with no pipe at all. There is a difference, but I don't find them that noisy. That being said... one is in my garage and one is in a vehicle... so I'm not trying to sleep. These heaters usually take about 3-4 minutes before they actually start blowing heat. This is because the combustion air and heating air share the same motor, and also why they cost $100 - $200 and not much much more. To start a flame and then start blowing hot air, you not only need two motors, but also a control system. The 3 minutes of cold air makes more sense than the added complexity and cost. These are designed to be parking heaters for vehicles / trucks... At the end of your driving shift, you shut your engine off and turn your heater on. The heater would recirculate the air and not pull cold air from outside, so this would not be a problem. I'm not sure what the price of diesel is where you live, where I live, propane would be a MUCH better alternative for heating a living space. I love these heaters, but I think they are often used in ways that doesn't make sense.

[@eby6114]

Your numbers are skewed. Heating outside air up is like running a wood burning stove with the window open. How bout a measurement of fuel use when your warming up air from the inside

[@solentlifeuk]

Vevor specifically state that exhaust should be horizontal or downward .. to not put upward. I can understand this as the system is not like a cars exhaust which has pressure from piston / valve action ... Second - surely having intake pipe dragging in air from same spot as the heater ? you will get diesel fumes on start up ??

[@1620GarageAndFarm]

Great review. I’m also in New England .. I may pick one up for my garage. Where abouts in New England are you guys? I’m in mass

[@bcrphoto7]

I have one on order, but I want to get things started, like a piece of plywood for a window. I need to put the hole in it for the warm air to come in.like you have into the bedroom. So what size hole or tubing is that, looks like 4 to 6 inch. Thanks for this video and your help.

[@TheOriginalAndysGarage]

That's funny I was going to say what the other guy just says is to run the intake back inside, I have two 15 L running my heater

[@OhioBoii330]

Wait, so where's your control panel? Is that still attracted to the heater? Or did you move the panel so that you can control it without having to go outside? And if so, how did you extend the wires? I can't seem to find an extension cable, so I'm gunna have to splice together some scrap wire in order to extend the panel into the house so I can control it without having to go outside..

[@farmer_donny]

When you change things put the exhaust muffler in the correct orientation. There is a hole on the side to let condensation out.

[@JakeHinds]

Can you run this upside down, where the heater is sitting on the ground with the exhaust ports facing towards the sky? thanks!

[@pacmanprov]

Wow you’re in New England!! I’m in Rhode Island and I’m going to try this. I also have space in upper main to for a tiny house. Thanks for sharing. #UKNOIT

[@abelincoln3261]

Most likely you are running your battery down ...using to much of it's capacity... Never run a battery past it's 50% capacity. You need at least 1pp watt panel and a 100 amp hour battery.

[@djtesla87]

thanks for great real world review. been thinking of buying one myself. hope it`s powerful enough to give comfortable temps when its -28 C outside aswell 😀

[@kevinmorris5726]

They were designed for use in semi trucks. The pumps tick is to confirm your heater is working. Usually the pump was under the bed. So annoying. But got used to it. No tick no heat. It gets to minus 40 degrees Celsius here . When the tick isn't present you wake up fast lol😊

[@Icutmetal]

The pump ticks because it’s a pulse pump, plain and simple. The unit puts out heat to confirm it’s working.

[@garymichalski5197]

It would heat better if you had the air intake coming from inside. You are trying to heat cold air to hot. A normal home heater system does not draw air from outside to heat the house. They circulates air from in the house and it's more efficient. That will help the efficiency of the heater

[@MrRamman04]

I have mine running for three nights now at between -5 and -10c with the intake outside like yours, my settings are 1 to 10 , I run it at 4 and it take 5 litres of diesel for 12 hours so it cost me 10$ a night because fuel is $2.00 a litre in Canada now so I find this is very expensive to run compared to propane or electric, thought it was much more efficient

[@flybobbie1449]

My first heater, fitted to van, from new was smokey and sounded like a jet engine.on start for quite some time. Did eventually run clear after many starts. Now just bought a 5-8kw, but mounted on it's side and never smoked or sounded like a jet.

[@CanadianCarpinHolidays]

Get a jb Smiths Diesel Heater Pump....FROM ENGLAND

[@RobertJones-iv1rg]

And this is why code enforcement comes up with off the wall laws! Dude, exhaust x air intake = carbonmenoxide ! If you are going to hook something up maybe read the directions first , my heater says blatenly ( Do not vent exhaust near the intake of this unit) . And it is true this unit will consume less fuel if it was installed properly inside . Mine I get 45 to 50 hours on a tank on settings 3 and 4 . Hope you get it right and don't kill or burn down your shit! Cheers : common sense!

[@JoseRivera-lk4cz]

your using cold air to maintaing heat,,you need to bring your intake inside to improve fuel consuption ...

[@TrumpforPrimeminister2024]

So about 3 days, would you imagine it may work for van life… I bought this solar set up because of this video XD

[@187Phatcat]

Try to route the inlet side in the house as well. The heater will run mose efficiently and there is no possibility of fumes that way.

[@flybobbie1449]

Remember these are cab heaters, unit inside and burner intake exhaust out. I would put unit on it's side inside building. Draw fresh warmed air and recycle through heater.

[@ProctorsGamble]

Do not extend exhaust upwards! Water will accumulate and freeze blocking the exhaust pipe.

[@StumblingBumblingIdiot]

Ran into this video as I was searching for a solution to heat my uninsulated garage during the winter so I could still do some projects. Do you think this would work in an uninsulated environment like a garage?

[@rickbraden4272]

Take it from a retired HVAC guy, you are throwing your money away with intake outside. Besides that the unit will wear out quicker since it has to run longer.

[@hjcg08]

why not mount the unit inside and then run your exhaust through the wall outside, plus having the unit outside you are sucking in cold air and then heating it up if you had it inside you would be recycling warm air which would make more sense lol... just sayin

[@alexanderackermans201]

And your exhaust point it right..on one side you have a little hole. That hole must be down. Hope it helps a little bit. Greets from Holland

[@johnhinton8427]

Why don't you connect a Inlet pipe like the heat pipe to draw from your house then you will not be drawing fumes

[@novanut1964]

i opened a window, then built an insulated box outside for my diesel heater, can shut window when not using, no holes thru the wall

[@redneckcomputergeek]

That is brilliant!

[@soilmanted]

Why do people use diesel fuel in these things instead of #2 heating oil, which is exactly the same thing but cheaper because of less tax. The reason people with diesel vehicles do not use #2 heating oil is simply because it is illegal to do so.

[@KevinHoey1]

Just an idea and please point out a reason if I'm wrong but here goes. Why not have the air intake from inside the building? For one it'll be warmer air than outside especially when temps get lower and may allow it to run on a lower setting as a result. Plus it'll eliminate the fume intake and cold through draft when it's not running.

[@redneckcomputergeek]

That is the goal in the future. Right now it was setup just to test it the way it is used to heat a tent.

[@davidthomas4029]

If you put The air intake into the house the first few minutes and it’s pumping cold air will be pumping the same temperature air that’s in the house already so I don’t think you’d notice it as much just my thoughts I’m going to install mine within the next week and I’ve been looking at all of these things here and I’m gonna try to do it that way with the air intake in the house and the air hexedine into the house also so your recycle in the air that’s in the house

[@stevehei8035]

Wouldn’t leave the diesel tank outside or could get cold and congeal

[@troyfullerton889]

Should have the cold air return hooked up to the bedroom too that way it's pulling from the house and then going back into the house

[@ermanakbay]

Very dangerous setup to have exhaust and heated air intake (i.e. the air you breathe) in the same space. The whole point of these is that the heated air is isolated from the combustion output.

[@troyfullerton889]

On mine, I put the rubber onto that plumber's tape that metal stuff with all the little holes in it, then I put it on to another piece of rubber and then mounted it to the wall stops a lot of the ticking sound definitely need to bring that cold air return into the house though

[@SCDeerAddict]

The heater should not be mounted outside. That's majority of your problems.

[@doomman700]

So you heat outside air to push inside? Why not pull the air from inside , heat and blow back in

[@NordicAdvRider]

In Sweden that would be an expensive way to heat the house. 2.6 Gallon is about $24

[@danstanescu2888]

you should make another hole in a wall and connect another hose to be connected to the heater and in this way you will have more heat in the house and the smell of smoke from outside will no longer enter🤩🤩🤩

[@thescottishwildman3245]

Does this model have alpine mode like this one? jump to 6 min. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3iQl6CQlshjZ7c

[@jacobymon5675]

If you route the intake for the hot air inside it would be much more efficient and you wont have a draft when its not running.

[@gman1003]

Wrap the fuel pump in some foam, you won't hear the ticking.

[@roastingpeanuts]

Absolutely love the diesel heaters, if you have a head on your shoulders you can simply figure out any issues.

[@travismoore7849]

I wonder if you could just use kerosene as it is cheaper than diesel.

[@frankmiles5389]

Brilliant I add m in the process of installing my new diesel heater.

[@jimmattingly4234]

I have worked on these for years in trucks inlet air need to be installed inside and leave exhaust pipe short

[@stevenrobertson7069]

Good idea on paper .......but in code standards this is not a good idea.....

[@ericanderson3324]

Don't route exhaust up unless you have a drain at low point or it won't work properly

[@randall1959]

Extend your intake. Don't extend the exhaust.

[@herschelgant648]

Why the hell wouldn’t the intake go inside?!?!?!?

[@basselalmourani3051]

How it converte the diesel into heat? Is there a real burning inside the converter, or how??

[@energymarketchile]

You can solve the diesel smell by running the inlet inside the building. That will also make more efficient your heater, probably cutting by half your fuel consumption...

[@robertmailhos8159]

Hopefully you aren't paying a lot for diesel fuel for your heater

[@redneckcomputergeek]

It's at $5.50 right now but the electricity to run it is free. So that is way better then an electric heater.

[@robertmailhos8159]

@@redneckcomputergeek cool hopefully it will be a good investment down the road 🛣️

[@abelincoln3261]

Your power source needs to be indoors away from extreme heat and cold

[@mitchblackwood]

does it come on and off by itself? or is it 100% manual?