Vintage 1940s House Dress - Haslam Sewing System - Pattern Drafting

[@NoraMurrell]

So happy you are here. If you all want to jump into the hair stuff or the Haslam Sewing System, check the description for links!

[@Divined737]

"Life is short, wear clothing that brings you joy." You're definitely my people! Looking forward to seeing more.

[@NoraMurrell]

Yes! Thank you!

[@Catsface99]

Wonderful sentiment and very real. We should wear what makes us happy, actually that has been how I lived my life and people always ask me where I get things I wear.

[@kefirasun8963]

Oh my gosh, I'm in love! You are everything I wish to be lol!! Pardon me while I binge watch the rest of your videos and daydream about the adorable aprons and dresses I want to make.

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You Very Much! Binge Away! I'll have a new episode up tomorrow!

[@patty4709]

Those were the good old days. Love it.

[@NoraMurrell]

Lovely fashion time-period!

[@lindyvalentine5434]

Wow. I love this. I am 6' tall and 220 lb lady so finding clothes has always been a challenge, and I love feminine clothes and in particular the vintage house dress. I have created garment after garment using old shower curtains and used materials trying to find the right "recipe" for my body, while teaching myself to sew. I am still struggling and am challenged. I haven't figured out the perfect pattern for myself.

[@NoraMurrell]

I am convinced that unless you are AVERAGE, there is no perfect pattern. Pattern drafting seems so daunting, but it really does make sense once you get going. I highly suggest crafsty.com and their $3 a year deal (do a google search, promise it'll come up.). That's how I taught myself to sew. I feel so much better about my body now that my clothing not fitting doesn't seem like somehow my fault.

[@aureateblues]

The idea of rewatching all of Bob's Burgers while doing a project is delightful, thank you for that. Loved this whole video and looking forward to the next episode! Cheers from Historybounding :):):)

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You!! See you next week!

[@xglsc6465]

Okay, totally smitten. Now trolling Haslam design! I have always preferred dresses or skirts and never understood why women think pants are more flattering , comfortable, warmer, or practical than a nice skirt or dress. In the 70's while raising my kids, my 'uniform' most days was a simple cotton dress ie. Lily Pulitzer sheath. I mowed grass, had a garden, had 3 kids, cooked, cleaned, canned all summer, etc in my dresses. In winter I wore mid calf denim (usually) skirts with a slip and sweaters and was warm and very comfortable. I think it was the late 70's when I bought a pair of jeans.... not nearly as flattering or feminine and I was 5'10" and 135 lbs. Thankfully I sewed, not great but I was able to keep myself and my girls covered. my 50 year old daughter STILL prefers dresses and skirts for comfort =D and thankfully my sewing skills have vastly improved =) I also LOVE vintage fashion and adore The Closet Historian who drafts everything from her sloper. My 'era' would be late 40's and 50's. I am to intimidated to try the sloper thing, maybe in September after reconstruction surgery for BC... you know, when I'm "level" again. SOOO since I'm timid about the drafting thing I watch everyone else and live vicariously! I would like to point out what I think is a fit issue with your very cute house dresses... I've watched the videos over and over trying to figure out what I'm seeing. I know you're drafting these from the formula for the style, but have you checked your back length measurement against your front measurement? you may need a slight adjustment for the shoulder seam to correct where the shoulder seam is placed, too short in the back could cause the tops to shift back, as the back is seeking more fabric. The bust... is your full bust more than 2 inches larger than your high bust? The armhole situation could mean you need a slight full bust adjustment. Sleeves... It looks like your shoulder seam is too long from the neck to the end of your shoulder. Check your sloper measurement from the neck to where your arm hinges at the shoulder. It looks to be long by a half inch or a bit more. Correcting this will improve range of motion, and possibly help with the issue you describe as wide upper bust. Yes I know that the 40s were the era of the strong shoulder BUT that was handled with shoulder pads like in your purple day dress. The other thing, I see with your sleeves, put the gathers in the top 1/3rd of the sleeve, not so far down the arm hole and I think you'll get a better looking sleeve. Use a double row of long stitches to get the best distribution of the gathers. I'm sorry to have sent this over LONG note through comments, but the only email you had was for business purposes. Please do not think that I'm attacking you in any way with all the fitting advice, I mean it only to be helpful not critical.

[@NoraMurrell]

Oh you are good. Really good eye. I don’t have a second to really reply to this. I’m going to be back.

[@thegreenhomefront]

I love your vibe! Please make all the things and all the videos of the things!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thrilled to do so, see you next week!

[@dianadivadiamond]

You have a vibe that would keep you going having afternoon tea like myself. I'll have tea anytime of the day. Your fashion style is glorious. You still maintain a small waistline which I've haven't been able to do. Love how that Day dress turned out. You portray a real Vintage look from head to toe. Love the shoes too. Love, love, love it.

[@NoraMurrell]

I’ve had two kids, I’m certainly not that nipped at the waist. That waist line is a corset! (Which also helps with some of my posture issues.) Thank you so much, your words are a delight to read.

[@NoraMurrell]

And yes. I think I need a cup of tea now.

[@paulcarlachapman628]

Darling dress! I was born in 1950 and I'm sure in my memory there were still dresses around like this. Super cute!

[@NoraMurrell]

Yes! Thank you! The button up house dresses really didn't have dramatic change for about 20 years. A little bit in the fullness of the skirt and sleeves, but that's about it. It's a true staple of a vintage wardrobe.

[@kateh6549]

This is really helpful. I have just started drafting with this system (and by just I mean today!).

[@NoraMurrell]

Wonderful! Happy sewing!!

[@lindamann2113]

You are a delight to watch and you explain everything where I can understand what I am to do and Winston is very handsome and sweet

[@NoraMurrell]

This makes me so happy to read. I never quite know if I'm explaining things enough or clearly.

[@rossfamilydenver]

You are a natural You Tube star! Can't wait to see more!!

[@NoraMurrell]

Fantastic! I post every Thursday Morning at 9am mt. =D

[@catopig7611]

You had me at dress in a way that brings you joy -these kind of videos bring me joy and i hope the number of subscribers that this kind of content deserves will be following behind me soon. I am looking forward to a LONG series accompanying you on the way to your dream wardrobe

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You! Welcome!

[@pamdarlak9906]

So glad you popped up in my KZbin feed! I really enjoyed watching your process. Equally enjoyable is Mr. Watson who bears a canny resemblance to my late Empress Josephine. Papillons are a wonderful breed.

[@NoraMurrell]

Welcome! This channel has been a lovely outlet for me to show my learning and growth as a seamstress. Mr. Watson is my first papillon and wow, they are truly special.

[@tina8513]

I loved this video. It's so true about the vintage reproduction patterns , and to dress yourself with what makes you happy ! I mainly only sew with true vintage patterns now, and I am in awe of your drafting .

[@NoraMurrell]

Drafting is FUN! I promise a more in depth drafting explanation is coming.

[@tina8513]

@@NoraMurrell I look forward to it .

[@wayfarinstranger2444]

You are adorable! I loved the posing at the end. Loved it with the ruffled apron! That totally completed the look!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you so much!! That apron is my favorite. Such a fun happy one.

[@Snookums1950]

Love your style ! It really suits you !👗🧵🪡👒

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you!! I love it!

[@Cee1505]

I loved this. Fun, educational, Fun, interesting, Fun, beautiful.....

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you! That’s exactly what I’m going for!😊

[@SewOldFashioned]

Thanks for introducing me to the Haslam system - I've never heard of that one. I have a 1970s Lutterloh pattern book that I've been meaning to try out forever and it's videos like yours that inspire me to dig it out and get to making something from it. I'm looking forward to watching more of your fabuolus videos.

[@NoraMurrell]

Fun! I've heard of Luttreloh. At some point I'm totally going to dive into it.

[@Diniecita]

I would love to see more about the haslam system. And the dress looks great!!

[@NoraMurrell]

Everything except the 1920s dress is 100% Haslam. Enjoy!

[@blufaerie]

This came out so lovely! And I love your Papillon, Mr Watson!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You! I will give Mr. Watson extra pats from you.

[@ecochan7391]

Hello ! I'm french. So excuse my spelling mistakes. I really enjoyed your video. it's very pleasant and relaxing. I love this vintage universe. i can't wait to see the other vidéos. :) thank you for sharing these good times.

[@NoraMurrell]

Glad you enjoyed it! I don't think I've ever had more fun!

[@Ellaodi]

Glad to see this come out! I've found success using a shell multisize pattern and grading, tweaking, and finally creating a custom block from that, to avoid endless fabric alterations for every single pattern, and instead alter a copy of my block to match the general shape of the pattern pieces, so the alterations happen on paper instead of fabric

[@NoraMurrell]

Fantastic! YES, Having a flat you concept that you then manipulate on paper is a brilliant approach.

[@mysticmeadowshomestead6209]

I'm watching from Virginia. It was 108⁰F today. I don't know what the heat index was. I enjoyed watching the snow pile up at your place. We returned granddaughter to her parents today and then went to an old- fashioned ice cream shop. We couldn't possibly have taken a 7 year old out in this heat.

[@NoraMurrell]

I just got back from Hawaii and I have head exhaustion. This heat is wildly not something to power through. I am now dreaming about cold vacations and snow. This heat scares me.

[@CatSubstrate]

I love the Calamity Ware!

[@NoraMurrell]

Husband found it and gave me a mug set one year, and I’ve been slowly building my collection. It makes me laugh AND it’s pretty. Win!

[@kaytiej8311]

So delightful! A little bit of nostalgia and practicality all rolled into one.

[@NoraMurrell]

Wonderful! Thank you, and welcome!

[@cindywinkler4172]

You're awesome!! I like the way you teach and you're fun!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You! I hope your sleeves never get wet when you wash your hands. 🤩

[@wisecoconut5]

I am inspired to try the Haslam system. I love the video and your little cur de mariposa too!

[@NoraMurrell]

Yay! Thank you!

[@betsymach2435]

Very nice. Also love the shoes and hose with seam!!

[@NoraMurrell]

Me too! I love a colorful seam!

[@arthurlynnkanuha5730]

So beautiful how your dress came out I am a new fan.

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you! Welcome!

[@sewitfits7393]

I am fairly certain my grandmother taught this system in England. The originals she gave me are currently packed away as I am in between worlds right now but I am going to have a look. So cool that you are talking about the system.

[@NoraMurrell]

If you have the original classes, there is a large group of sewers that are wild to find that because as of right now, NO ONE, has a record of the actual classes. That's a massive vintage sewing find.

[@sewitfits7393]

@@NoraMurrell I am excited to look through it. Although right now I feel like the between world will be my life for a while.

[@stache1954]

Your production values are spectacular.

[@NoraMurrell]

Wow! Thank you! That's truly not something I feel that I've got down quite yet. And this was an early episode too!

[@pixiedust7659]

Thanks Nora! Great to watch stupid early in the morning here in Australia while I work! I look forward to watching more of your sewing adventures as you like the same styles as me :)

[@NoraMurrell]

Morning! That is silly exciting to me all the way over in Colorado! WOW!

[@oldchickenlady]

I just found your channel and subscribed!! I am most comfortable in1840 up to 1915 or so.....maybe because I'm so old, or because I taught living history classes for about20 years😁. Anyway, I really enjoyed your video! P.S. I'm a spinner also!😉

[@NoraMurrell]

Awesome! Thank you! I am starting to spread out my sewing. My next era I’m looking at is the 1830s.

[@karlastrivens9835]

Awesome. Can't wait to see more! (Love your hair too)

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You! I already have the next 2 videos ready to go!

[@dianadivadiamond]

I'm from T&T in the Caribbean.

[@barbiedesoto7054]

This is so good! I love how those small details push the delicacy of this to the next level but you style it in a really accessible way. And I love your philosophy! So glad KZbin told me to watch this haha

[@NoraMurrell]

YES! That's exactly what I want to do. TINY details that bring it all together, BUT those tiny details truly cannot be bank breaking or something that is just impossible to wear. Thank you!

[@emigab]

That dress looks fantastic on you!!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you!!! These house-dresses are Fun To Sew!

[@kampfrau1]

Ive really been thinking of trying this system and now I think you've sold me! 🤔

[@NoraMurrell]

The only real challenge is getting the initial sloper correct and usable. Just plan on a time investment on that, and you’ll be good go!

[@patmoore5044]

Just watched. Love your show. The dress is beautiful! Well done!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You! More is coming!

[@ShellyParchman]

Your dress is super adorable!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you!

[@CleverEwe]

I can hardly wait to see you do a Suit! Thank you for this very interesting video. I look forward eagerly to your future videos.

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You! Thursdays!

[@wendyhandler1532]

I am in awe of your knowledge and skills. Keep the videos coming!

[@NoraMurrell]

I am working on episode 4 right now. Thank You!

[@soniamartin3753]

OMG your a life saver!! I've been sewing some years now although nothing too fancy or complicated and during this pandemic I've been teaching myself couture techniques and patternmaking. And I came across the Haslam System and I purchased some but I haven't attempt anything yet. The dress looks lovely and now I can't wait to dive into it!! I might start with a house dress, too. I know it won't be perfect but it won't matter since it's just a house dress!! Thank you so much!! You have a new subscriber!!

[@NoraMurrell]

Wonderful! Welcome! Happy Sewing!

[@patty4709]

You definitely look like a 40’s housewives down to your shoes and hair. Wear it well. Great job

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you! 😊

[@nelled6240]

Lovely. Thank you

[@NoraMurrell]

Thanks for watching!

[@amandaborgemenke8600]

Lovely dress! I just discovered the Haslam system, and will be doing some late 40s/early 50s dresses. Lots of helpful tips in your video. Thank you!

[@NoraMurrell]

Glad it was helpful! This system is absolutely brilliant and has opening up sewing to me in a way that is just thrilling.

[@asurya8797]

Oh yeah! Can't wait to see more as well! You are fascinating!

[@NoraMurrell]

More to come!

[@marshaloneagle4646]

Oh, i am so glad youtube recommended you. Lovely personality, great info, and wow, fun video. Thank you.

[@marshaloneagle4646]

And ty for your philosophy...wear what makes you happy, no matter how inacurate or as acurate etc.

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You and Welcome!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You and Welcome!

[@NoraMurrell]

Absolutely. Be Happy.

[@freezo244]

So fun!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You!

[@Sarahofthewoods]

Delightful! Absolutely delightful!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You! I’ve had a lot of fun doing this!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you! I’ve had a lot of fun doing this!

[@jacquelinepaddock7535]

Watching your presentation made me that I wanted Haslam in my life, I would love follow you but what I need is lingerie, so I 'll be starting with slips as pjs! Looking forward to what you get up to next.

[@jacquelinepaddock7535]

Aren't predictive text a faff.

[@NoraMurrell]

I highly suggest MrsDepew.com and the pdf files of the Haslam designs. I also need lingerie, and my MIL just sent me a big box of lace, so I'm all of a sudden very inspired to create some fancy under things.

[@margiecook6379]

Thank you!

[@NoraMurrell]

You are most welcome!

[@FranLu-qs2xv]

Oh gosh, this just showed up for me and barely into it and I love how you are a pear shape-all of my sisters and I are which is fine, but as a young woman I was the in at the waist, now in my 50s it's all junk in that trunk. Working on it, but it is slow! I'm so impressed with all you know, but sadly it has turned into Portugese. I just don't speak the language. But thank you for the video. (I live my life in the 1940s but I cannot follow a pattern :( C'est domage.) Thank you, take care.

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You!

[@cezza6474]

Which book is the house coat from? Xxx absolutly love it on you xxx

[@emigab]

This is fantastic. You are amazing lady. :)

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you! 😊

[@alewis2812]

This is so useful

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You!

[@teraschultz4896]

This is awesome! Great video!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You! I am thrilled to be doing this!

[@sophiesong8937]

Fantastic work!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You! I will post more next week!

[@barbaramatthews4735]

Your dress is sew cute.

[@NoraMurrell]

I really enjoyed this first sewing series!

[@Catsface99]

I love your little Papillon dog. I have a 1/2 Papillon 1/2 Chihuahua dog and he is such a character a little toughy for such a tiny little dog. I have a McCalls Qipao blouse pattern that I am trying to make but it is a mess, the directions are horrible and I am having such difficulty sewing that pattern.

[@NoraMurrell]

@@Catsface99 I’m currently cutting out a silk chiffon that keeps *moving* on me. This is nuts to work with, but it’s going to be amazing to wear. I think I’m going to just give myself A LOT more time to cut this out than I usually expect things to be done. Good luck on your blouse. Is there maybe a youtube of someone sewing that exact pattern? *luck*

[@snooksmcdermott]

Great video, and you have a Calamityware mug!

[@NoraMurrell]

Yes I do! I was wondering if anyone would notice! I decided that my "fancy china" would be from Calamityware, and that when passed down to my children, we would be able to say that we collected these pieces of fancy china during the Plague of 2020.

[@snooksmcdermott]

My best friend collects it and has the dinner plates on her dining room wall.

[@NoraMurrell]

@@snooksmcdermott They are such fun designs!

[@HRH_Queen_JoJo]

You had me at Pear shaped. That’s me and I’m hoping to learn from your experience and your mistakes :). I would love to see how you handle a placket. Ve never done one before. How did you add it to your pattern?

[@NoraMurrell]

Great suggestion! That's absolutely a valid episode. I'll add that to the list.

[@jenniferfowler6713]

that's cute!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You!

[@sueanngardiner6161]

Awesome video!! I was wondering how much do you do for your seam allowance? I was also wondering if you thought about doing a video on how you sew the placket? I away get messed up with that section lol. Can't wait to see more videos!

[@NoraMurrell]

I do half an inch as a general rule for seam allowance for sewing. I do half and inch for the serger. So in the end, I draw out a 1 inch seam allowance. Which is HUGE. So that's why I mark all point that I am actually sewing together to make sure that I don't make something too big. I could absolutely do a video about plackets. The next time I put one in, I'll absolutely showcase that.

[@sueanngardiner6161]

@@NoraMurrell Gotcha!!! that's an excellent idea for the extra inch for the serger. I'll have to try that myself next time. Thanks for all your help.

[@michellestrickland7613]

You were talking about needing to make sure that the shoulder corners need to match up to get the best looking and best fit but I I'm wondering if the best thing to do would be to match up those corner stitch lines with pins to get the most accurate seam. You know these patterns so I know you would know best but I also know that with commercial and indie patterns you should match up the seam line. Do you have any advice?

[@NoraMurrell]

That is correct! You are dead on, and depending on the material, matching those stitch lines up can either be a breeze or be utterly stupid. Sometimes I find the pins to be helpful, other times, the block my view and are useless. I've noticed that I'm pinning less and less as time goes along. I'm not sure if this is an experience thing or ??? But yes. Match those seam lines any which way you can figure out how to make them kiss and have a forever relationship that is positive and secure.

[@thetimelesscostumemaker1266]

Thank you for doing this video. I have been sewing for over 25 years now and love sewing my own clothes but have always used a pattern. Unfortunately trying to find vintage patterns in my size, and a price I can afford is becoming extremely hard. This Haslam system looks very intriguing to me and am thinking I might want to try it. Would you recommend this system for someone who has never drafted her own patterns before?

[@NoraMurrell]

I would bet that an experienced sewed would absolutely understand the concept of drafting. It is absolutely a separate skill from sewing from a pattern, BUT we aren't talking about a totally new concept. I'm sure that you have modified patterns before, and that is very similar to drafting. This isn't a crazy expensive system at all. My personal suggestion that seems to be general consensus is that the Haslam method of drafting yourself into 2d form to create a sloper is a bit lacking. BUT, you absolutely do not need a Haslam method created sloper for the Haslam pattern books to work. You just need an accurate you in 2d form. If you have that, ALLLLLLLLL of the haslam patterns from the 20s through 60s open up to you and FIT. It's the sloper that is the challenge, once that is done, the pattern part becomes clever and not hard. I like Suzy Furrer. She's the one that taught me how to draft my own sloper. (there are many places or approaches or people that can teach this). This is where I found her classes. go.craftsy.com/craftsy-banner/. She also teaches at www.apparelartsproductions.com/class-description

[@arthurlynnkanuha5730]

I am doing research on these because I love the style’s.

[@NoraMurrell]

Vintage style is so solid. And styles keep repeating themselves!

[@io20501]

Love this video! Hope you make more. Question, do you use basting spray instead of pins?

[@NoraMurrell]

Sometimes. Never on tissue paper patterns. Only on patterns that if I rip in half by accident I can remake. ... I already have the next 2 uploaded and scheduled to drop on Thursday mornings at 9am mountain time. I am currently editing #4, and #5 is in the works this Sunday. =D. Welcome!

[@io20501]

Can’t wait to watch!

[@lucyandmabs3779]

What pattern did you use for the apron? It’s adorable

[@NoraMurrell]

It's in this book. VERY useful book. mrsdepew.com/shop/ols/products/haslam-dresscutting-book-of-draftings-lingerie-no-8-1940s-vintage-sewing-pattern-e-book-with-30-patterns

[@KathiTrujillo-kn6qn]

Where did you get your dress maker's mannequin? That is my next dream purchase.

[@NoraMurrell]

It’s a Singer, and I think I ordered it online? But. I can say that it isn’t as useful as I though it would be. I have a very different shape in general than the mannequin. I use it. Just not for what I bought it for.

[@frankjanvari8650]

hello very nice lady gorgeous videos please kindly film how you do your own hair roller set video please kindly let me know OK?thank you very much and have a beautiful day 😊

[@NoraMurrell]

Here's all of my hair videos! kzbin.info/aero/PLex960Pm4KIiO8ZUkLZFJ92A2oN53WFUO

[@sues.9791]

😀

[@lindagraff2484]

Your dog is adorable kiss that sweet baby for me, lol.

[@NoraMurrell]

😊 Absolutely!

[@ivanaveselinovic7963]

Seri seri moj matori golibu beli