Vulcan VN750 Charging System Diagnosis and Hole Saw Stator Replacement

[@Frankmali17]

Thanks for the video man... I have to do this to my 2004 Vulcan 750 with almost 20k miles.

[@T-Bone-Grizzle]

I also used a hole saw but to keep it centered I created a jig out of a piece of plexiglass. Using spacers, I bolted it on to keep the hole saw in place. Worked like a charm. I also used cutting oil to capture most of the shavings before they migrated into the engine.

[@robertdurdle4842]

Got my plate ordered. Hoping to get this bike out for long ride within a month. I'm a newer rider with about 1 and half years experience and 10k on my 89 750. I'm basically chomping at the bit for more, just at a standstill untill I get this charging system right.

[@viscompulsiva362]

When I removed the old stator wires I unintentionally pulled the rubber plug out of the case, so I now have oil leaking pretty badly from around the yellow wires. I'm trying, (so far unsuccessfully), to stop the leak by filling in around them with Permatex Ultra Blue Silicone. For anyone who asks, in the forum, or elsewhere, how to deal with the wiring from the stator, here is my suggestion. This is how I'd do it, if I had do-overs, which I don't. First, cut the bullet connectors off and remove the rubber plug from the new stator harness. Then solder the new wires to the old ones inside the stator compartment. Now, pull them ONE AT A TIME and VERY CAREFULLY, through the old rubber plug. Then install new bullet connectors on those wires.

[@gunterclass]

Wow, you did a great job explaining every step. Thank you so much for sharing. Robert.

[@snowman4839]

I appreciate it!

[@Allsportdriver]

Thanks. This looks faster and less messy than the other approaches with a dremmel tool cut out.

[@ChristopherFehrenbacher]

Excellent explanation. I'll be doing this shortly.

[@blakewili7769]

Did you use the 3 spacers in the kit provided? I just did the tuxedo yesterday and I’m questioning whether I need them or not

[@HeyDued]

thanks for the content. I love short cuts but this seams way to gangster for my liking.

[@irish-thinker4429]

What thickness plate do you need to make that kit

[@stuuuk]

I love this! Im having charging problems on my 1990 vn 750 after changing the altinator twice :(

[@chepeb12]

How many miles did the new stator last?

[@oledirtydoc3001]

It is recommended to pull the motor and take the SIDECASE off so you don't get any shavings in the motor

[@cassidydennis2574]

Please tell me how you got The regulator rectifier out other video’s I’ve seen they just leave the old one and clamp the new one on to the frame

[@snowman4839]

You have to take out the battery, then take out the 4 bolts at the top of the battery box so that the battery box is separated from the bike. Then you can maneuver it so that you can get at the bolts holding the regulator rectifier to the battery box from underneath with a long ratchet extension. It’s certainly not a very accessible part...

[@davidbustamante3809]

Caltric stator used????

[@metalmikejr]

Did you just use silicone just on the cover or did you put it on the face where the cover meets as well?

[@snowman4839]

I just laid a tall bead of silicone on the cover

[@metalmikejr]

@@snowman4839 awesome thank you.

[@jasanjohnson5844]

Do you know where I can get a plate like that? Wibesite doesn’t work.

[@snowman4839]

You may be able to message for one here facebook.com/pages/category/Community/Kawasaki-VN750-Stator-Plate-Mod-1653810891522199/

[@NicholasHarris]

Wow, this video is so much clearer and cleaner than the other one's I've seen. How long did the mod end up taking you?

[@snowman4839]

Thanks! I would say about an hour for disassembly and drilling, an hour for the kerosene rinse, and 45 minutes for reassembly. So three hours total for everything plus a day to let the RTV cure.

[@NicholasHarris]

@@snowman4839 Woah, that's pretty good. Seeing your video made me a lot more confident about doing the mod, honestly it comes down to whether pulling the engine or doing this would be more likely for me to make a mistake and break something. You did this mod about a month or two ago, how has the stator held up?

[@snowman4839]

@@NicholasHarris yeah I know the feeling. My engine has almost 40k on it and I didn’t feel like breaking small things when removing the engine and paying to replace them which is why I went this route. I ended up getting a bad replacement regulator/rectifier that fried this stator again in about a week so a bought another oem style regulator rectifier off of a low mileage bike and replaced the regulator rectifier and the stator again but haven’t had any problems since! So basically you just need to 100% make sure you have a good regulator rectifier before replacing your stator or it’ll keep burning out. It only took about 30 minutes to replace the stator the second time because of this mod.

[@NicholasHarris]

@@snowman4839 Good to know. If my local motorcycle salvage has a low miles kawasaki vulcan, I'm thinking about just taking the stator and r/r from there. I was freaking out just a bit, I just bought the vulcan yesterday. I knew it had a charging issue, I guess I was just hoping it was a bad R/R. I was prepared to replace the stator, until I found out it normally requires pulling the engine.

[@snowman4839]

@@NicholasHarris yeah it came as quite a shock to me as well. For charging problems, I would suggest swapping both at the same time to not burn out a new component and having to rebuy it again if you get the diagnosis wrong.

[@snowman4839]

NOTE: Don't buy a cheap regulator/rectifier off of eBay. My new one went bad within a week. Get a quality OEM-style replacement

[@GCEXTREMEMN]

You should relocate the rectifier tho, in its stock location there below the battery and above the exhaust belly, it gets really hot and that causes it to fail. Glad the stator plate mod worked for you. I've been making and selling these since about 2010, but as the Vn750 was discontinued in 2006, the demand for these isnt very high. I probably sell maybe 8 a year if Im lucky.

[@annegretton3545]

Hi does anyone know where I can buy the tuxedo mod plate and a stator thanks Jon

[@snowman4839]

I linked both in the description

[@colebrown9961]

Has anyone had to grind anymore of the housing plate? I tried mounting mine to the same stator last night and the housing is coming in contact with the stator pickups. Not the bolt you had to grind out for. It’s sits lopsided and one bolt doesn’t reach

[@T-Bone-Grizzle]

Yes. You have to grind down the ribs in spots.

[@antoniobautista192]

Hell yeah 🙏

[@GCEXTREMEMN]

Your plate was shipped out today.

[@antoniobautista192]

@@GCEXTREMEMN thank you so much very much appreciated

[@viscompulsiva362]

Can these still be purchased?

[@snowman4839]

I believe so. This repair was only done 1 year ago

[@viscompulsiva362]

Order from Glenn @ facebook.com/1653810891522199/ To order click on Send Message

[@viscompulsiva362]

Thank you for the reply. Keep the rubber side down.

[@zappa916]

why wouldn't removing all the engine mount bolts and jacking the engine up , be a suitable, cleaner and less intrusive procces?

[@snowman4839]

I’m not sure that you have enough room to move the engine enough to get the side cover out. People have raised to cutting out the frame because of that

[@GCEXTREMEMN]

Once this mod is done, it makes changing the stator in the future a much simplier and quicker job. My stator failed while out on vacation in NorthCarolina, I was able to drain the oil, and replace the stator in the parking lot at the resort I was staying at, in about 1 hour since I had done this mod.

[@billphillips110]

I've done what you are suggesting one time before and I won't do it again that way. With my first stator failure at 17,000 miles, I opted to do the engine removal option that you are referring to. That entire job took 12 freaking hours and I never even actually removed the motor as I would have needed another set of strong arms to assist. Instead, I removed enough hardware to get the motor to tilt far enough out of the frame to remove the side cover. It worked but damn that was alot of work!! I am now about to replace my 2nd stator at 42,000 miles and there is NO WAY I'm going to do the motor tilt option again. These stators fail and they will fail again! So I'm going with the Tuxedo mod this time around.

[@billphillips110]

@@snowman4839 Actually the motor can be tilted just far enough to the right side to allow the left side cover to be removed. But, Joshua, there so much work that needs to be done to get the motor free that I'm going with your technique this time around as this will be my 2nd stator replacement. The first was at 17k and now it failed again at 42K.

[@briansengstock59]

Filtered the shavings through a coffee filter.

[@snowman4839]

Can’t believe I didn’t think of that. Clever!

[@scowlsmcjowls2626]

Do not do this mod to your vulcan. If that stator moves a tiny bit it will scrape off the tin protecting the rotor magnet and can cause your engine to lockup while you are riding. The cover is designed that way so that can never happen. If you dont want drop the engine then cut your frame and reweld it. Ive seen this mod wreck a vulcan engine and lucky there wasnt a serious accident

[@Cproductions1319]

I have a plate if anyone needs one

[@justicecioffa4173]

Yes I just bought a 2002 and the guy never told me about the stator

[@annegretton3545]

I need a plate are there any in the uk

[@jeffmoseley842]

Where can I get a plate?

[@Cproductions1319]

@@jeffmoseley842 I think I have one