VW A1: CIS-Lambda Stumble / Hesitation on acceleration

Thomas
P.O. Box 83041
4827 Kingsway
Burnaby, BC
V5H 0A4
Canada
When & Where Needed:
*** Raise & support the vehicle safely according to Manufacturer Jacking & Supporting Positions!!! ***
Rate, Comment, Share, Subscribe, Let the Ads play... I'm still paying off my tools!! Tool or Coffee & Donut Donations welcome at my website below!!
fkh161.ca/
Discuss this video in the Subscribed Members Forum:
exovcds.freefor...
Check out my Picture on on Instagram:
/ exovcds
VW Service Manuals: $35/24hr access (download as much as you want)
erwin.vw.com
Audi Service Manuals: $35/24hr access (download as much as you want)
erwin.audiusa.com
VW Tools:
vw.snapon.com
Audi Tools:
audi.snapon.com

[@SteveRobReviews]

Awesome stuff, not quite sure I followed everything. The more I watch you fix Phantasie Deutsch Autos I realize I have much more to learn.👍

[@EXOVCDS]

I'm just glad you didn't get a heart attack from my editing... you must have missed "it".

[@SteveRobReviews]

Ha no quite contrary I watch your vids real closely. BTW you owe me a new pair of underwear :)

[@EXOVCDS]

Steve Rob LOL... I'd rather send you a couple of stickers. Message me your address if you want a couple.

[@SteveRobReviews]

That's an amazing coincidence , I just mailed you a sticker today from my buddies channel from Newfoundland. I'd love one of yours for my toolbox. Thanks Thomas

[@EXOVCDS]

Steve Rob Done. Will wait for it in the mail and send them as soon as I have the address.

[@CHIBA280CRV]

Dude you work on the car , as if you build it , excellent video . This time I didn't get motion sickness lol..... Geez I need to go to school!!

[@christrujillo9971]

fuck yeah we need more videos of mk1 service

[@EXOVCDS]

I will try to comply! =)

[@stuzman52]

Great stuff on this video Thomas! As you were pulling the injectors out, I said to myself, what kind of injectors are those. And what is this CIS. So, I looked it up and thought WTF, a mechanical fuel injection system where fuel is controlled by an air valve along with a fuel distributor. This was all brand new to me. I thought mechanical injection went away in the '50's. Nice video Thomas with the tips of how to check this system out.

[@EXOVCDS]

It's a great system when things are working as they should... age is the big issue and rust in the tank.

[@WSMDSA]

Really excellent. Thank you. My vs Scirocco needs exactly this work.

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for watching!

[@johnhayes9437]

my first VW was an 85 Golf with CIS basic. excellent car. $500 wonder to boot.

[@EXOVCDS]

Basic CIS & Basic-Lambda (with O2) were great systems! I had a 79 Rabbit.... took a beating & kept on running!

[@vetonvishka8014]

Hi, I’ve got a 1989 mk1 golf GTI 1.8 (DX engine code) with a hesitation issue. Not really noticeable at a stand still revving in neutral but as soon as I drive off there is hesitation at partial throttle and the car barely accelerates. At very light throttle it seems ok and at full throttle it also clears up, though the power band doesn’t feel entirely smooth. Changed the WUR, plugs, leads, distributor, dizzy cap, rotor arm, fuel filter in engine bay, alternator, ignition amplifier, played with mixture, idle speed set, timing set. Still have the same problem. Fuel tank and filler neck also look new. I will be checking the fuelling side of things next since the fuel pump is seeping slightly and the car wouldn’t start the other day without a direct 12v feed to the pump (was reading 0v during crank before this) to get it going again. Any help would be appreciated!

[@EXOVCDS]

If it has an o2 sensor, you need to check that the frequency valve is working correctly... and the o2 itself.

[@DIY.11.11]

Excellent video

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for watching!

[@DIY.11.11]

@ I’m rebuilding 84 convertible. I am a hobbyist mechanic so I really appreciate good videos like this because is hard to find any good information on complex repairs. +

[@jcd13able]

I'm fixing my friend's '82 vw jetta 1.6L and it only took me three months of back and forth messing with fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, etc. to figure out that someone switched two banjo bolts on me. One had a one way check valve put right in front of the fuel distributor so almost no fuel got into it but what was confusing is that I still got 40-50 psi of system fuel pressure. That check valve should have gone to the outlet of the fuel filter and the hollow bolt with no check valve should have gone into the distributor. I did noticed that one way check valve before but I didn't know it was one way valve until I looked at it under a magnifier glass. I thought it would prevent fuel from escaping the fuel distributor to maintain fuel pressure in the lines. Couple of hints. Use a jumper wire from battery plus terminal to WUR yellow/red wire to energize the fuel pump. No need for fuel pump jumper, etc. The needle in the fuel pressure regulator should be pushed way back by the cylinder inside the regulator to allow fuel from the WUR to flow thru and out to the tank via the return line. If you loose fuel pressure immediately after engine is shut off then the little 007 sized o-ring at the end of the cylinder is missing or torn and/or the small o-ring at the end of the needle inside the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or one way check valve in the fuel pump is defective. Inside my WUR, the fuel inlet hole has small metal screen filters which can sometimes be clogged up. I took them out and cleaned them and put them back in and held them in place with an o-ring otherwise they'll flop around. The WUR can be disassembled and adjusted via the sealing plug. Push it in to allow rich mixture and pull out to lean out at startup. Should be getting about 50-55 psi of control pressure when engine is warmed up and about 73 psi of system pressure. Cold control pressure is about 20 psi but depends on outside temperature. Once engine is warmed up the WUR has no effect on anything. The fuel float inside the fuel tank can be disassembled and cleaned. The fuel distributor can be disassembled, cleaned and put back together without it leaking air or fuel. I've done this three times already. Don't use any sealer and don't forget to align that small hole in the metal diaphram with the control pressure fuel passage. The small filters at the top of the fuel distributor can be pulled out with a wood screw, screw it in and then pull with pliers. That way you don't have to disassemble the fuel distributor to blow them out with air. The frequency valve should always be buzzing with fuel pump going. If it's not it could be the a relay that is corroded. It's next to the fuel pump relay, the one with 15 amp fuse in it. Pull it out, disassemble it and clean the contacts inside of it with a sandpaper or brush then put back together and the frequency valve should buzz. The fuel injection lines are plastic with a metal mesh over them. I've replaced couple of those plastic lines on the car with high pressure fuel injection lines ie. 90psi capable and hose clamps with the edges sanded off so as not to cut thru the lines. Not sure if the fuel pressure lines can be replaced with normal rubber hoses. When replacing wheel struts, also get the rubber bumpers on top of the struts unless they're new. You can use a 22mm offset wrench to take the nut off at the top of the strut, I used oxygen sensor removal wrench and a hex allen wrench. You can use impact wrench to remove that nut by putting the spring compressors on and let them apply little pressure on the rubber bumper then use impact wrench to loosen the nut. It's much better than holding the strut with locking pliers and scratching it. It's also lot easier than using the hex wrench and offset 22mm wrench. If you mark a line with a nail where the strut attaches to the wheel hub, you can put back the strut and skip the wheel alignment. I used 80ft/lbs with Harborfreight's Icon torque wrench to secure the two bolts of the strut and with that Icon it's apiece of cake. The front suspension is very simple on this car, just two A-arms, no torsion bar, etc. If you wonder how you're suppose to remove the rear wheel drum to change the brake pads if it's stuck then listen to this. On american cars you insert a flat head screwdriver from back of the drum and you move it up and down to move the star nut that will release the pressure on the brake pads so you can remove the drum. Well on this car there is no hole on the back side so what do you do? Well, the four lug nut holes go thru the drum so align one of the holes with a triangular metal wedge inside the drum, use a flashlight and search for a spring connecting to the triangle. Then insert a flat head screwdriver into the lug nut hole and push up to unjam the triangle. That will release the brake pads so you can remove the drum. As the brake pads wear the triangle falls or is pulled in by the spring into a hole so when your foot releases the brake the pads will not move inward and instead will stay out. That way next time you apply the brake, your foot won't press the brake pedal all the way to the floor. Crazy germans :)

[@jcd13able]

cont... Setting up the frequency valve duty cycle. Get a multimeter with a dwell function. I had to hook my meter up where my negative lead went to the blue/white wire of the test port next to the cold start valve. I connected the red lead to ground on engine block. That way the meter correctly measured the duty cycle. Don't forget to hit the % sign otherwise you'll get 70hz cycle rate instead. The way the lambda or air/fuel enrichment system in this car works is like this. When the engine is cold there is a thermo switch in one of the water hoses. The switch will conduct and will notify the computer to bump the duty cycle to 80%. The computer can not take readings from the oxygen sensor because it isn't warmed up yet. The car is now getting warm so the thermo switch breaks contact and duty cycle goes to 50% or limp home mode because the oxygen sensor isn't warmed up yet. Few seconds later, the oxygen sensor starts functioning and sends a voltage from 0.1 to 1 volt to the computer. If the fuel mixture is rich it will be about 1 volt and if it's lean it will be about 0.1 volt. The duty cycle should be about 50% plus or minus 8%. If the duty cycle reads 80% then the car is running too lean and computer is trying to richen the mixture. If it reads 10% then the mixture is too rich and computer is trying to lean the mixture. What is the frequency valve for? It's basically a fuel injector that allows fuel to pass from the lower chambers of the fuel distributor and out to the return fuel line. The computer controls how frequently the frequency valve should be open. If the fuel flows out of the lower chambers then the springs inside the fuel distributor will push on the diaphram and allow it to bend downwards thus allowing more fuel to flow to the fuel injector ports. When the computer tells the frequency valve to close, the fuel pressure will raise because less is returned to the return line and the steel diaphram will bend upwards from all the fuel pressure building up in the lower chambers and will close off the fuel injection ports thus resulting in a lean fuel mixture. The deal is this. You can become the oxygen sensor and test the frequency valve like this. First, disconnect the oxygen sensor and hook up your meter to measure duty cycle. Touch the green wire from the disconnected oxygen sensor to the engine frame ie. ground it. You'll be telling the computer that the mixture is lean and the computer will try to open up the frequency valve and push more fuel into the injectors ie. richening the fuel mixture. The meter will register about 96% or more on duty cycle. Now to simulate a rich condition, use a AA battery with good known 1.2 voltage and attach the green wire to the positive terminal of the AA battery and ground the negative end of the battery to the engine block. The computer will now think that the fuel mixture is rich and will command the freq. valve to close off and raise the fuel pressure in lower chambers thus restricting the amount of fuel to the fuel injectors and thus leaning out the fuel mixture. The duty cycle should go to 10%. If all that is happening then you know your frequency valve and computer is working fine. Also, if you take a voltage measurement of the green wire and a good ground then you'll get about .5 volts which is the reference voltage of the computer. The computer can have a bad ground and I think this will mess up the reference voltage. You can also measure the voltage of the oxygen sensor itself by attaching positive probe to the sensor and negative to ground. You'll see voltage from 0.1 to 1 volts. You can also measure duty cycle and oxy. sensor voltage with two meters at the same time. If you want to remove the oxygen sensor then use a 22mm oxygen sensor socket and use anti-seize on the threads when placing new one in. You have to remove the intake manifold plastic air shroud and loosen up the hose clamp with a metal pipe going into the auxilary air regulator in back of the intake manifold. That will give you enough room to get the socket on the oxygen sensor which is recessed into a hole so a normal wrench won't work. Might also use wd40 or some other penetrating oil to make removal easier. My wasn't hard to remove. You can buy all the internal parts on rockauto site for an old alternator but I think the cost is higher than buying a new one. The way an alternator works is that inside it has two coils. A small coil which turns into an electromagnet and a bigger coil that will turn into a generator. The small coil will have a variable magnetic field depending on the state of the battery. If the battery needs to be charged then the low voltage will be noticed by the voltage regulator inside the alternator and will create a bigger magnetic field that the bigger coil will cut thru and generate electricity and charge the battery. When the battery is nearing a full charge, the small coil will generate small magnetic field that the bigger coil will cut thru thus not generating as much electricity to charge the battery. Why not use a permanent magnet inside the alternator? Because then the amount of charge can not be varied and the battery will get overcharged. Inside the alternator are six I think diodes that create the bridge rectifier and will change the AC voltage into a DC voltage so the battery can be charged. There is a small red wire going from battery positive terminal into the alternator to create the small coil electromagnet in the alternator. By the way, on this car there is a solenoid switch on top of the starter that turns the starter on/off. To power this solenoid there is another solenoid switch mounted to the frame of the car in the engine compartment that is activated by the ignition switch inside the car. That switch turns the solenoid on the starter on/off. If you can't get the starter to work it's most likely that a bad ground developed in these solenoids. You can always jumper these solenoids by a wire(screwdriver) to get the starter working. Also tapping these boxes and starter sometimes works as it creates a better contact inside them. The contacts get pitted and not conduct as well. Possibly could be taken apart, contacts cleaned and put back together again. If you wonder, this car has only one fuel pump and it's mounted next to the gas tank on the outside of the gas tank. If you're having problems with the fuel system, take out the fuel pump, put gas into a milk jug, put pump inlet hose into the milk jug, connect the pump to 12 volt battery, take a hose from the fuel distributor inlet and put it onto the pump outlet bypassing all the fuel lines and fuel filter and then you'll know that the only thing that can be messed up is the one way check valve that someone put in backwards in the inlet of the main fuel line to the fuel distributor. That's how I found out.

[@EXOVCDS]

Thanks for the informative write-up... and thanks for watching!

[@stupiderthanjupiter4987]

@@jcd13able killer- thanks so much for this writeup! really well written and insightful

[@osmarq3435]

excellent video. i for one, like many, have no clue how to adjust that damn fuel dizzy. Didnt know there was so much to monitor when it comes to final adjustment. kudos on another excellent video. Now can you do a 16v?

[@EXOVCDS]

Oscar Marquez It depends on the version of CIS. Plain CIS just involves turning the adjustment (and checking the exhaust gasses). CIS-lambda as in this video requires O2 & frequency valve , CIS-Motronic is similar, but uses a differential pressure regulator... check mA instead of duty cycle.

[@paterpilar]

Thanks for the vidéo, I search info for my Scirocco II JH engine. great to see same motor works. I just renovated all the head cylinder, it's bad if I have not put pbr rubber grease for new rubber injector? What is the red Screen box for test? Oh, and thx for my 118 BPM heart now 💓😅

[@EXOVCDS]

I use rubber grease / silicone grease... it just makes it easier to install the injectors. The red tool is measuring O2 sensor voltage and frequency valve duty cycle. A digital multimeter can also be used. If the engine does not have an o2 sensor, then there is no need for that step.

[@glosshogg]

Thoroughly enjoyable to watch the process! I'm in the Fraser Valley with an 88 Cabrio needing some tuning, how would a guy go about getting your hands on it? Do you have a shop? cheers

[@EXOVCDS]

We are completely swamped. I don't give out shop location... one bad review can affect the shop or channel. I'm happy to help via KZbin chat / comment section, email tech support (includes phone / voice). 90% of time, simple back & forth like this can help solve issues (as long as you have tools & can follow instructions).

[@glosshogg]

I can't imagine you getting a bad review whatsoever but I understand. I picked up the car as a father-daughter project and we have since replaced just about everything, as the car hasn't been on the road since 99. We got it running fairly decent but I'm at the point where I'd like a professional to give it a once over. I'm quite confident with my work but I'm no VW expert haha I would like an expert to give everything a once over and go through the tuning process. Ive been watching your videos for quite a while, saw you're local and thought I'd reach out. Not surprised you're swamped with work! Ive heard good things about Wolfsburg Autoworks in Abbotsford, I might give them a ring as well, cheers!

[@EXOVCDS]

I've only been at this shop for 3 years... we are swamped due to regular clientele. Giving out shop info would make things worse. A few new customers have recognized me. People finding me is OK.

[@grover02]

Question: "@ 22:04 I'm connecting my positive (channel 1 of my scope) to the O2 sensor signal wire" Are you leaving the signal wire attached to the green wire going to the control box, or are they disconnected?

[@EXOVCDS]

O2 needs to be connected to the green wire... first, make sure that the green wire has 0.45v when disconnected from the O2 wire with the key in the on position. If yes, connect the O2 to the green wire and continue with your checks / adjustments.

[@kennethwillits374]

Thomas is there any way that you could explain how to install the injector insulator correctly. I’ve ordered the square o-rings but would love to know the best way to install them as not to break them. Thanks.

[@EXOVCDS]

Which "square" o-rings? cabby-info.com/Files/InjectorTypes.pdf eva2.homeip.net/eva2/FU01/ch4.7.1.html

[@BenjaminHansen]

I have a 1983 1.7L Rabbit convertible with CIS system. The PO must have installed the injectors w/o lubing the seals as they were twisted and tore. I pulled the injectors today and did not see a "protective cap" you show at 12:11 in the video. Should I have the protective cap for my year injectors? I did not see them listed when looking to order new ones in a catalog. Love your vids by the way. They help a lot.

[@EXOVCDS]

I have forgotten when they started using the caps... haven't seen many CIS engines in a while, so I have forgotten a bunch of other stuff as well. If I remember correctly, the inserts for the injectors in the head were also different, so that could tell you if they were missing or not. Thank you for watching!

[@kamz4576]

The 1.7L uses Bosch injector #0437502023 without the hats (what we enthusiasts call 'em ;). However, even if you bought injectors with the hats (Bosch #0437502045), you can simply remove the hats and you'll have the same injectors.

[@BenjaminHansen]

The injector is replaced. I did additional work in an attempt to get rid of the hesitation but to no avail. maybe you have an idea?? here is the link to my issue.... kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKO8o5yYg72fqbs

[@Pendrap]

Great Video Thomas, I have a 1984 Rabbit GTi 1.8 engine and I'm having hot start problems. Did these 8 valve engines have common problem with this issue? It will start after many attempts but runs rough for a bit then good again. Also did these cars come with a hot pulse relay? I have checked the timing and air/fuel mixture all seem good. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[@EXOVCDS]

Check the fuel accumulator... most likely is is leaking internally, causing fuel pressure to drop after the engine is shut off... resulting in vapor lock. At the back of the fuel accumulator is a small screw. Loosen the screw... if you see fuel come out / the screw gets wet, replace the accumulator. The accumulator is located at the right rear of the vehicle next to the fuel tank.

[@Pendrap]

​@@EXOVCDS Thanks for the quick response, I have an extra fuel accumulator that came with the car. I'll give that a go. I wish we had someone like you here in Ontario i would defiantly bring my car to you. 🤘

[@evaldasbuitvydas3416]

thanks a lot great video

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you and thank you for watching!

[@evaldasbuitvydas3416]

Thomas EXOVCDS i have same cabby, and the prolem is when im accelarating valves knocks to pistons. when im realiesing gas pedal its disapears. it could be bad valve timing?

[@EXOVCDS]

Valves can not contact pistons on this engine... you are probably hearing pinging / engine knock. Check your cam & crank timing as well as your ignition timing. Ignition timing that is too far advanced will cause engine knock / pinging / preignition.

[@evaldasbuitvydas3416]

Thomas EXOVCDS thanks now i understand were was my mistake. ignition timing diference was about "10 minutes" from 6BTDC mark. i setted it to 0TDC point and its works awfull :(

[@theblackmambaplague]

And yeah, I almost had a freaking heart attack man!!!! Giving diabetes left and right with that!

[@EXOVCDS]

theblackslcmamba First person to watch the whole thing and notice it... thank you!

[@guayaco-dm3vu]

This was overload for me Thomas.... Now you need to do a 16 valve so I get it.lol Oh yea thanks for the scream,it work on me.OMG I got scared lol.

[@EXOVCDS]

I forget to do play-by-play and I didn't record the aux air regulator hose change. A little extra here & there adds up to a lot of time. Main reason is I don't want the boss to get mad because I'm talking too much. Long story short, injectors & vauum hose.

[@EXOVCDS]

The surprise should have waited till Halloween, but that bit of down time waiting for the fan to turn off... was screaming at me to be used! LOL

[@Mutato-]

I need to find someone like you down here in Seattle.

[@EXOVCDS]

Ian.net has a "find a repair shop" link utility. Enter your city / postal code to find shops in your area.

[@Mutato-]

+Thomas EXOVCDS That link is dead. Domain is for sale.

[@EXOVCDS]

+Brian Lane Sorry... my bad. iatn.net/repair

[@marcosisraelplascenciasern547]

Hi, how are you? I have a 1986 cabriolet that starts perfectly well cold, but after having used it at its optimum temperature for a couple of hours I turn it off and leave it for a few minutes, and I want to turn it on again, it does not start easily, what could it be? the problem?

[@EXOVCDS]

Fuel pressure is most likely dropping when the engine is turned off. On a cold engine, this does not matter, but when the engine is warm... vapor lock will form and that can cause hard / long starting. Check the "fuel accumulator" (under the back of the car in front of the fuel tank). Loosen the "little screw" at the end of the accumulator... if fuel comes out, then the accumulator is bad. Here is a picture of a fuel accumulator. The little screw is in the middle of the flat end of the accumulator. Do not remove the screw fully... just loosen it. When fuel is present, it will start to push out and you will see a fuel stain starting to form: www.mk1autohaus.com/assets/images/431133441c.png The other way to check for fuel pressure drop, is to use a fuel pressure gauge.

[@marcosisraelplascenciasern547]

perform the test you indicated and actually when loosening the screw with the engine off and a little gasoline came out, should absolutely no gasoline come out?

[@EXOVCDS]

Should not have fuel there. If fuel is there, then the accumulator is bad.

[@marcosisraelplascenciasern547]

Thank you very much, I will try to get an accumulator, excellent videos 👍🏼

[@odysseyuk5532]

Hi Thomas, your videos are great! I have a 1984 vw rabbit GTi and the engine dies on deceleration but will start up right away and idle normal. Any ideas where i should look to fix this problem. Thx

[@EXOVCDS]

After free revving deceleration (vehicle not moving), or only while driving deceleration / in gear? CIS-Lambda? Plain CIS? EGR or no EGR? Standard or auto?

[@odysseyuk5532]

Only when vehicle is moving and decelerating so if i put it neutral while its moving it will die. If i use the clutch to slow down the car i can avoid it from dying. It will start up right away after this. All this started happening after i replaced the header and removed the intake manifold. I did notice that a same vacuum line behind the intake manifold was not connected to anything, and it must have been like this before replacing the header. I believe there is no EGR valve in this car and it's the CIS lambda fuel injection system. I was wondering if i need to reset the timing and fuel-air mixture after header replacement. Thanks Thomas for your input.

[@hoffa2586]

Check for vacuum leaks at the idle stabilizer valve (if you have AC there will be 2 of them one block one white) It’s by the the shock tower connected with tubes to the manifold/valve cover. They should click & keep the car from dying for example when you come off a freeway go into neutral and come to a stop. Rev it freely out of fear from under the hood and listen for the click when it revs back down to idle speed. If you hear no click check the valve and all connected vacuum lines.

[@hoffa2586]

cabby-info.com/files/fuel/KJetronicDiagram.pdf

[@vr6prodigy]

Seems like I'm starting to hate cis-e Haha another great video!

[@EXOVCDS]

Can be a bit temperamental, but a great system when working correctly.

[@vr6prodigy]

@@EXOVCDS well I gotta get that far first lol.

[@EXOVCDS]

What's she doing or not doing?

[@vr6prodigy]

@@EXOVCDS for the moment doesn't seem to be charging. I dunno if you know but this is vr6prodigy from ig. We're talking about the 16v Passat I just picked up a couple weeks ago

[@EXOVCDS]

Hi... I wasn't aware. =) With the engine at idle... voltage drop test the + & - side of the charging system, like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5a4k5mLidyBoLM

[@BenjaminHansen]

Wow! I hope to fix my 83 Rabbit convertable doing this. I will need to figure out how you measured the dwell though. I do not have that meter.

[@EXOVCDS]

Most digital multimeters have a dwell function.

[@BenjaminHansen]

I have a couple of multimeters. I bet one has dwell. Thanks.

[@theblackmambaplague]

What's up man?!!! One of your first subscribers here, I hit a question man. I got a slc vr6 corrado and I'm having a bit of a dilemma. Whenever I hit high mph I get a bucking from the engine, like its cutting off or flooding. Misfire so to say. It's only when I hit high mph (80 or above) I get no codes and I've replaced pretty much everything. Fuel pump, relay, fuel filter, dizzy, plugs, plug wires, O2 sensor, all exhaust and downpipes, etc, etc.

[@EXOVCDS]

theblackslcmamba Hi, long time no chat! Not sure, I would have to monitor fuel (injector pulse) and ignition (ignition pattern or coil current ramp) to see what cuts out, one or the other or both. I forget VR6?

[@theblackmambaplague]

Yes it's an obd1 vr6. The weird thing is that when in neutral, I accelerate all the way to 7000 rpm and I don't see or feel any misfires or bucking or "flooding" whatsoever. What could it be man? It's only when I start to hit 75+ mph. Several backfires and hesitation.

[@EXOVCDS]

theblackslcmamba No-load reving is not the same... you can monitor o2 voltage to see if it starts to stay lean under higher loads. Check to see if the throttle position sensor voltage goes from around 1v (throttle closef) to around 4.5v when the throttle is wide open. That engine uses a hotwire maf... have a look at the resistors to see if they are dirty. Careful cleaning with maf cleaner & a q-tip can bring them back to life. Make sure the intake tube is not cracked... under load the engine torque and if a crack is present, it will suck air.

[@seraajroomaney3148]

Hi, i have a mk2 1.8 8v golf gti (Bosch kjet), lately been having an intermittent starting problem, both hot and cold, already changed the fuel pump and filter, there is spark and fuel, removed injector to check if fuel was coming through and the car starts with the injector out, could the fuel metering plate be stuck and preventing air from entering the engine? Could bad compression be the cause (not lifting the plate enough)?

[@EXOVCDS]

If there is spark & fuel, then it should start... no? How are you checking for spark & fuel? What is the fuel pressure cold, warm... when it does not want to start? Changed the fuel pump... one or two pumps? What about the fuel accumulator... is it good? Does the engine have a cold start valve? Have you verified that it strays fuel for up to 8 seconds of cranking / starter operation? Removed which fuel injector and the engine started? The cold start valve? It is easy to check the movement of the metering plate (plunger inside of the fuel distributor)... just lift the plate, lower it quickly and raise it again. You should be able to feel when the plate makes contact with the plunger and you should be able to feel the plunger move up as you raise the metering plate. Compression is easy to check... let me know what is is. Post a video so that I can hear & see what is happening (when the engine doesn't want to start). When the engine does finally start... does it run rough or does it run smooth right away? The more information I have, the fewer questions I have to ask and the better I can guess as to what the problem might be.

[@seraajroomaney3148]

@@EXOVCDS hi Thomas, thanks for the reply, we replaced the main pump and the fuel filter, the lift pump remains unchanged, the injector we removed was injector number 3 from the inlet manifold, its as if the engine is being starved of air and removing the injector allowed air into the manifold which is why I suspected the senso plate isnt moving, while removed injector 3 sprays a nice mist when cranking, spark was checked by removing a spark plug and cranking, when it does start it splutters to life with a misfire, thereafter the car runs smoothly, your other questions I will get a worksop to check, would have loved to have you look at the car but im in Cape Town South Africa and unfortunately the guys with the skills to look at kjet are a dying breed, I'll try and take a video sometime, thanks again for your time

[@EXOVCDS]

@@seraajroomaney3148 if the injector sprays fuel after the engine stops cranking, then yes, the plunger in the fuel distributor might be stuck in the up position. Does the engine have an o2 sensor & frequency valve?

[@EXOVCDS]

@@seraajroomaney3148 some good info here: www.cabby-info.com/cis.htm Click on "troubleshooting chart" on the left side of the web page.

[@seraajroomaney3148]

@@EXOVCDS Hi Thomas, after 2 weeks with the car at the mechanic going through the entire kjet system, he called me now and said that the fault was that someone previously connected the cold start valve directly to the power, so it was flooding the engine, hopefully the problem is sorted, will keep you posted

[@Wheel_Horse]

Hi Thomas! Does the 87 MK2 Golf have the same connection for the frequency valve? I have a scope but not sure where to connect. Bentley manual says nothing about it !

[@EXOVCDS]

Is it CIS-Lambda like in this video... or CIS-E? Post a video of your engine bay so that I can see.

[@Wheel_Horse]

@@EXOVCDS regular CIS, not -E. Not sure how to post video! Forgive me. Can I connect the scope to the electrical connector for the valve? Easy enough to back probe the connector. Did you actually disconnect the valve and hook on to the connector with your scope? Or does the valve need to be connected while observing the duty cycle?

[@EXOVCDS]

@@Wheel_Horse you can back probe the ground side of the connector (the ECM controls the ground). The power side will show battery voltage, while the ground side will show a voltage that is less than battery voltage. If you are using a scope, you should see a square wave. O2 sensor needs to be ok and the coolant temp sensor for the ecm needs to be ok.

[@Wheel_Horse]

@@EXOVCDS Thank You Thomas! I need to finish rebuilding the warm up regulator and get that re-installed. When I do that, I'm going to have a look see. Thanks again!

[@Wheel_Horse]

@@EXOVCDS I found the test connector on the MK 2 ! It's in a different location and 'hidden' away. Looking at the wiring diagrams it was apparent that there was a test connector somewhere so I went looking. On the MK 2 Golf it's coming out of the wiring harness just above the master cylinder. It was tucked in behind the harness almost impossible to see. So now I'm good to go if I ever get that rebuild kit from Germany! LOL! Thanks again !

[@thatruinedmedia6625]

I'm doing this same test only with a multimeter that reads duty cycle percentage. positive connected to the blue-white test port, negative I grounded to the cold start valve. When it's first cold, I get a reading of about 100, 115 for about 30 seconds then it drops down to 67-75 and stays there. I adjusted my metering screw clockwise about 1/4 turn, but my readout had no change. should I continue to adjust? I'm trying to get my idle to come down from 2000 rpm, and I was told to check literally everything else first.

[@EXOVCDS]

Year, make, model, engine? Engine war, disconnect the O2 and turn the mixture screw clockwise until the engine runs rough and then turn it counterclockwise until the engine runs rough... then, turn back to the "middle" position of those "rough" running spots. That's a good "base setting". Attach the O2 and read what the duty cycle is... obviously any vacuum leaks, base ignition timing, base throttle position, idle speed, closed throttle switch, idle boost solenoid & relay etc all have to be adjusted / working correctly... otherwise you are trying to compensate for something that the "mixture screw alone" can not.

[@thatruinedmedia6625]

@@EXOVCDS its an "88 JH Cabriolet with non working AC haha. ive checked all the obvious stuff like vacuum leaks, timing, throttle position etc. tweaked timing a tad and got it to around 14-1500 rpm. so you connected the positive to the test port and negative to the o2 sensor wire? I believe I have the o2 sensor with one quick connect and another single prong connector. Which one did you use?

[@EXOVCDS]

21:08 I'm connecting my ground to battery negative. 21:26 I'm connecting my positive (channel 2 of my scope) to frequency valve test plug 22:04 I'm connecting my positive (channel 1 of my scope) to the O2 sensor signal wire Before you do any mixture adjusting... use a pair of pliers and crimp vacuum hoses that are easily accessible, including the the PCV hose that runs from the valve cover to the air filter box. Engine RPM should NOT drop when any of the vacuum hoses are pinched. If yes, determine why and fix that first.

[@thatruinedmedia6625]

@@EXOVCDS ok i will give that a shot. Thanks so much man

[@DonPaco.]

GREAT GREAT VIDEO MAN ! quick question how long did you go to school for ?

[@EXOVCDS]

Still learning... the apprenticeship was 4 years.

[@DonPaco.]

+Thomas EXOVCDS how much would a service like this cost?

[@EXOVCDS]

El Paco Chingon That can all depend on how bad the system is... you are basically paying straight time + parts.

[@diecastchevy]

How much to do that to my 86 VW Cabriolet, where you located ? Nice job !

[@alecfleming373]

Got one of these 1.8 motors in my fox. The distribution moved (my amature fault) and I have it now at 6 degrees and still won't start. Limited on tools, it has 163,000 original miles, would it be smarter to start with checking my timing chain say a compression test amd work back that way or work from my fuel system? The last thing to do with my fuel was the regulator switch. Both pumps seem to turn on. Could a massive vacume leak cause something like this? Its acting like its got no fuel. Only other thing I think of is the pressure regulator, being vacume operated? I'm still learning and really want to save this 30 year old jem. Thanks -Alec

[@EXOVCDS]

Are you able to check fuel pressure (control pressure & system pressure)? Should be 1.5bar when the engine is cold. If there is no hint of wanting to start, then no spark or no fuel. Yes, these engines are sensitive to vacuum leaks... but if you have good spark and some fuel, the engine should still want to do something, backfire in the intake or exhaust.

[@alecfleming373]

Thomas EXOVCDS I got fuel, but no way to measure it. Spark is damn strong, we talking purple not blue or white. What I get via holding key over a long time is a few pops. Thought it might be shit fuel, but that came out fine as it runs in my other machines. Only thing I can think of, is somethings upsetting the balance and its mechanically over doing something. Before car stopped running itd rarely, maybe 2 times a year act like vapor lock, wait like 15 minutes and itd start right up. Maybe thats a clue?

[@EXOVCDS]

Alec Fleming Injectors out of the head... lift the flow plate in the air box. Do the injectors spray nicely? Is the cold start injector spraying when cranking the engine? O2 sensor CIS? If yes, is the frequency valve buzzing?

[@alecfleming373]

Thomas EXOVCDS Yes just saw how to do this thanks to this very video. Its tomorrows plan, injectors out. Still need a jumper wire so I might be making tools again, but if it works... Yes its CIS but not 100% on the 02 sensor. Been scared to mess up MAF plate. How delicate is that really? Lmao. But thus far, I haven't heard this buzz yet. I will be checking for this too. I am located in Sacramento California. I say this because if you're close enough... I might save some coins and have you check her out for me. Love this car so much and my eldest son (3 and a half) has expressed it as his cool car yet moms is moms cool car. So yeah, its worth it. :D

[@alfianabu]

Hi thomas, need your help. I wanna change the fuel lines going to the injectors and the wrench size is 14mm. Is that for M10 or M12 injectors?

[@EXOVCDS]

If I remember correctly, the fuel lines are the same for either style of injectors.

[@alfianabu]

@@EXOVCDS wow! Didn't expect you to reply! Thank you sir! Love your videos. I'm from Malaysia and golf mk1 is very rare here

[@EXOVCDS]

@@alfianabu You can send me pictures of what you want to do / replace so that I can be sure I know what you are talking about. Click on fkh161 link in the description and then click on "tool request" to send me pictures. If threaded part that goes on the injectors is the same for the 2 different style of injectors... if that is what you are worried about.

[@x-man4702]

What type of machine is that? I don't see VAG on it...

[@EXOVCDS]

It's just a fancy graphing multimeter... you can use a regular digital multimeter. A graphing meter works well for viewing waveforms like O2 operation, Injectors etc. www1.snapon.com/diagnostics/us/vantagepro/ProductImages.htm

[@amothjon]

What did you clean the rusty thread nuts with, (brakecleen)

[@EXOVCDS]

Amoth Jon Yes, I washed them out with brake clean... and then blew them dry. I blew the lines out from both sides and then put a bit of engine oil on the injector threads. I'm sure there are other ways (more thorough) of doing it (replacing the lines etc).

[@southeastsenders3527]

Is there a way you could do a video of just ajusting CIS? greats vids!

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for watching! We don't see that many anymore... so I'm limited to what comes in the door. The next chance I'll get, I'll record some things to check.

[@southeastsenders3527]

I daily my 85 cabriolet, with a jh and I need to get better at learning cis! Thanks for the video.

[@EXOVCDS]

+Julien Bucci Best way to learn is to play with it. Start posting vids of basic services that you do... and you'll have a CIS following in no time! The community will grow and all will share DIY experiences with each other. I'll subscribe! :)

[@southeastsenders3527]

Done a bit already, mostly to the front suspension, everything done but the rack, all shocks and springs, brakes and the master, water pump, that kinda basic stuff. Want to get into learning how to time and ajust the mixture, i have some stumbliing when cold, idle changes itself, sometimes its llow around 7-800 and sometimes its around 1300.. got most of the vacuum leaks taken care of I believe.

[@williampowell8798]

Can I apply this to an Audi 5 cylinder with CIS?

[@EXOVCDS]

Yes... will be similar.

[@williampowell8798]

Thomas EXOVCDS thank you!!

[@tam1381]

Looks much like the early Volvo CI fuel system from about 1976/early 80,s

[@EXOVCDS]

Yeah... there were a lot of similar CI / CIS systems back in those days. Was a great system at the time.

[@Deafjustin]

part of Rabbit body I miss them

[@EXOVCDS]

Justin Vancouver Yes, very close to Rabbit. This one is still in good shape.

[@Deafjustin]

I wish you keep it

[@EXOVCDS]

Justin Vancouver This customer will probably not sell it... I'm a little too tall for Rabbits anyways.

[@Deafjustin]

LOL

[@baxrok2.]

Very cool to watch. That face thing sucked. lol Thanks!

[@EXOVCDS]

Baxrok2 LOL... I forgot about it. Just found it again. Hope you didn't spill any coffee! =)

[@ylimsalam1]

scared the shit out of me thank for that lol

[@EXOVCDS]

Sorry.

[@ylimsalam1]

btw i fixed my car because of you ^^ the scare prank was worth it thanks a lot ¨^

[@EXOVCDS]

Nice to hear that the video was of help! What was the issue?

[@ylimsalam1]

well here is the story and i still need your help haha i wasn't able to start the car. I had no fire and it was caused by a faulty hall captor at the distributor sending no signal to ignition module. replaced it and car started running again but poorly just like before the "no fire" situation. So i started checking what you did in the video. injector patern are acceptable, they're not perfect but not as bad as the one shown in ur video. But injector seals are completly destroyed, thorn, ripped etc. here are the issues i have. 1. i cant find where to hook my meter for the o2 signal 2. i checked duty cycle and frequency of frequency valve using white blue wire and gnd and i get 68.7hz frequency but all i get as duty cycle is 3.6% and everytime i put the 3mm halen in the socket to ajust engine want to stall. also, turning the 3mm socket doesn't change the 3.6% duty cycle. i'm kinda stuck there but i somehow manage to make the car idle good ( no hunting, no hesitation on acceleration etc.) but i do not want to damage my engine from running too rich or too poor and kinda want to go all the way with tuning it good any help appreciated :-)

[@EXOVCDS]

Thanks for clarifying! Find the O2 in the exhaust and follow it to the connector. Disconnect the connector... you should then be able to get 45 duty cycle. Problem is you need a good o2 to actually dial it in correctly, since the CO / mixture adjustment is probably way off now. Make sure that the ECM side of the o2 connector has a reference voltage of about 0.45vDC. If it's close to 0, then the reference wire is shorted... if it is more than 0.7V then the ECM has a bad ground.

[@dearbornerik]

thomas i have a 1987 vw rocco it surges up and down ideas ?

[@EXOVCDS]

Does it have a couple of vacuum solenoids close to the passenger strut tower? Is one of those clicking on/off?

[@dearbornerik]

Thomas EXOVCDS so it gets even stranger i go to start my car in michigan here and the horn honks i was like wtf lol. Not sure i can check it later tonight what am i looking for ? Oh all so can you do a vid on the 16 v how to set timming ty

[@selmirjunuzovic8844]

I'd like to have a mechanic like you in Edmonton AB.

[@EXOVCDS]

Kind of you to say... I just have average skills, so it's quite possible that there's someone like me in Edmonton!

[@thomasrose6962]

i always check the oil before i run any engine like that..u know how many dont even show on the stick.. those little fuckers like to go thru oil if the oil has been abused

[@EXOVCDS]

Thomas Rose Good habit to get into... thanks for watching!

[@fixandrepair6666]

Wtf... 25:53 I was scared :D

[@EXOVCDS]

+VW Golf Variant 1,9 Tdi 2008 LOL... sorry.

[@fixandrepair6666]

+Thomas EXOVCDS :DDDDDDDDDDD

[@dearbornerik]

lol the face

[@EXOVCDS]

Sorry... haven't watched the video in a while. What face?

[@EXOVCDS]

Just found it... Haha.