VW Amarok Vibration

An Amarok vibration seems to be a common discussion amongst owners on forums. Many have varying opinions with limited success.
The vehicle in the workshop today has vibration symptoms and the customer is keen to remedy the fault.
What could be the cause?
PS - Just a bit of an update. Some comments have added to the possible causes of this fault. A problem transmission could create a vibration as well. A transmission service as well as a fluid flush could remedy the problem.
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Disclaimer:
MiracleMAX wants you to be safe, however, no guarantee can be given against improper use or unauthorised modifications on the information provided. The repair shown in this video is carried out at your own risk and any property damage or injury is your own responsibility. Please ensure you carry out this repair safely using approved safe work practices, correct use of recommended tools and equipment. This video is educational only and is no guarantee of a result if done incorrectly. Any injury, damage or loss due to incorrect use of tools, information or equipment is the sole responsibility of the person carrying out the repair and not MiracleMAX.
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[@MrWilliam.Stewart]

Your such a good tech Mad Max. I would have diagnosed the problem as "it's out of warranty, there's your problem Sir"

[@MiracleMAX]

Nah, that would frustrate me. I have to know what caused the fault. That's why this one is a bit disappointing because I didn't get to see if my diagnosis was correct. 🤔

[@MrWilliam.Stewart]

@@MiracleMAX That's why you are such a good tech Mr Max. You use thought, skill, analytics, methodology, and data to conclude a diagnosis. I simply look at that badge and think disposable car.

[@colinreid7305]

First class attempt at diagnosing a difficult problem

[@MiracleMAX]

Thanks Colin 😉👍

[@romanosautomotive]

Top stuff Max. I've definitely seen a few of these on Amaroks before. I like the little scope 😉

[@MiracleMAX]

The little scope has served me well, but I love my Picoscope............sorry little scope☹️

[@ronludwig9383]

Max, thanx for this video. Checking for that vibration was terrific! Good grief, another throw away item!! Who would have guessed that special tooling is required? I still don't know why such design and manufacturing changes must occur after for example VW has produced vehicles for almost 100 years (applicable to other manufacturers as well). This reminds me of my experience (how many times have you all heard that before)?! My Triton vibration announced itself >85 kph and ended being being flats squashed on the tailshaft. Previous owner did some 4x4ing and must have bottomed out on some rock, no scars to be seen under the ute anywhere else and the vehicle was newish. He also decided to sell. Must have scared him. My good fortune. The local Hardie Spicer guys found the problem and made me one - it cost heaps less than what the Mitsi dealer wanted. Never had a problem with it.

[@MiracleMAX]

Hey Ron, You had a fairly common problem - 4WDing and a damaged shaft. I once had a customer with a Subaru get a tailshaft made by someone elsewhere due to the fact that it had a 'peened' style of uni-joint. After that he had all sorts of issues with oil leaks. It was rebuilt with second-hand parts. The guy was trying to save money, but it ended up costing him in the end. Going to a specialist like Hardie Spicer for those issues is a good idea. Manufacturers do like to save their money, don't they!

[@timbest825]

Had a friend with similar problem on an Amarok with Automatic transmission he had a friend look at it came to the same decision and yes, he had to buy a new drive shaft. Vibration was still there. Sent drive shaft back and got a new one it was still there. From there took it to a couple of different VW dealers they claimed it was at one the ABS, at another the wheels so swapped out all wheels it was still there. One dealer did say it could be the transmission but said it would cost him up to $14,000 to fit new transmission and see. So, with help he changed the transmission oil at home (not sure why the dealer didn't drop the sump and inspect for clutch material etc.) changed auto tranny oil and the problem disappeared, since then he has changed the oil again and replaced and inspected the filter no major debris was found. And the vehicle is behaving as it should be. It has over 300,000 Kms on it and does some hard work. Obviously the "sealed for life" transmissions oil had broken down causing clutch shudder/ vibration at different times.

[@MiracleMAX]

Wow Tim, someone sure loaded up the parts cannon! Glad he was able to find the fault. That's good information to know. I'll keep that in my mind for next time. Those of us in the trade know that there is no such thing as 'sealed for life'. The oil still breaks down and needs replacement. Thanks for sharing your comment - much appreciated. 😉👍

[@Carlowman88]

Had similar problem, found a local ZF gearbox expert, diagnosed the problem easily as torque converter in the gearbox. He rebuilds at least 1 amarok gearbox a week. Mine was diagnosed early enough and was also saved by a gearbox service (oil and filter changed + 2 tubes of shudder stop for good measure 😉) jeep is back 95% right now. A slight bit of unreversible damage caused unfortunately. ZF (the gearbox manufacturer) recommended a gearbox service every 50k kilometers. Very common problem in amarok 6 and 8 speed auto boxes. Hope this helps, great video 👍

[@MiracleMAX]

@@Carlowman88 Thanks for that info Noel. So much for sealed for life transmissions! They must have a real issue with those transmissions - a lot of transmissions will be serviced at 100,000 intervals. Glad you got your Jeep fixed & thanks for sharing your comment 😊😊

[@adrijusben4152]

@@Carlowman88 maybe u remember which oil u used ? 🤔

[@Carlowman88]

@Adrijus Ben I don't know the exact type but ZF8HP45/70 is the gearbox model, if you Google it should probably come up

[@brendan4663]

Great video Max, thank you! Great to see some in-depth diagnosis. How much torque (in Nm) is needed on those tailshaft bolts? Would you use red locktite on them?

[@MiracleMAX]

Sorry Brendan, I don't have the torque specs for the tailshaft bolts. Loctite is generally not needed, but if you would like to use it, it is extra security.

[@brendan4663]

@@MiracleMAX Thanks, I found a workshop manual. From what I can see, it's 50Nm+90deg for the 8 flange bolts and 20Nm+90deg for the 2 centre bearing nuts.

[@MiracleMAX]

@@brendan4663 Well done! 😉

[@markshort9098]

If that was my vehicle I'd be chopping the yokes off and welding different yokes on, even if i had to machine up some custom yokes.. what a dreadful design, i haven't come across one like that before

[@MiracleMAX]

There are a few manufacturers that use this design. A few come to mind that I have deal with. Subaru, VW, Nissan and I'm sure there are others. The changing of joint types are an option, but not in my wheelhouse....

[@Tomasss932]

So what is the main problem with the vibration of the transmission differential? I have 8 selections on the tiptronic from the beginning and then nothing.

[@MiracleMAX]

Sorry, I haven't had much to do with the transmissions on this model

[@abdul-kabiralegbe5660]

At least for curiosity sake, you've got to hate when customers "snatch" a good detective case from one's hands!

[@MiracleMAX]

You're right! I would have liked to see the end result and been able to see if my diagnosis was correct. ☹️

[@matiasbosshardt8888]

Change the transmision oil and filter... Every 100k kms

[@MiracleMAX]

Good advice Matias! 👍😊

[@markozabic5552]

Big mistake you did is that you have placed jack under the cab. Its not designed to be lifted there. Yu have chassis going from front till the end, and regardles you place if its under chassiss you'll be fine

[@MiracleMAX]

Usually they provide sections on the cab as jacking points. But, I agree, the chassis is the best place for it. Thanks for your comments

[@christovanderlinde366]

Only problem there is the torque converter, and the reason for that is guys go into deep water.

[@MiracleMAX]

Thanks for your comment

[@wkim3114]

2.5 litre? I am closing the window

[@MiracleMAX]

Sorry, I don't understand the comment

[@johncardinal5220]

A timing belt fixed my issue, the fuel pump was out causing a fuel issue.

[@MiracleMAX]

Interesting. Thanks for sharing. 👍

[@johncardinal5220]

Hi Max, I watched your video couldn't find any problems and my dad said maybe it's actually a fuel issue. 50km approx same rpm every time. Belt wasn't due for another 30,000. The fuel pump, was out by at least 3 to 4 teeth???? Old belt was definitely stretched. Changed and vibration gone. Thanks for your video, very easy to follow 👍

[@MiracleMAX]

@@johncardinal5220 How many kms does the vehicle have? Is it possible that one of the belt changes was missed? According to service data, the belt should be replaced every 105,000 kms. Glad you were able to find the fault. 👍

[@johnmars974]

easy cheapish fix .weld on servicable uni joint by reputal tradesperson 250 bucks max ,qld australia

[@MiracleMAX]

I couldn't guarantee that type of work. As as registered business, if anything goes wrong, it's my neck and reputation on the block. If someone wanted to do it for themselves, that would be a risk they would have to weigh up.

[@johnmars974]

@@MiracleMAX fair enough

[@60ineka46]

there is no 2.5l.amarok.2 or 3 litre only

[@MiracleMAX]

You are correct. That's why I put an edit in my opening introduction. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZe0fJ9_Z56jppY Good catch - thanks for your comment 😉