Warlord Games Black Powder Epic Battles Waterloo British Infantry Painting Tutorial P1

[@kevinboulter1575]

Ok so this video has single handedly converted me to Epic Scale thank you

[@MiniatureRealms]

That’s very kind, thank you for watching 😊

[@jackk4027]

So I brought the british epic starter pack for my first ever war gaming set. On top of that, I’ve never painted miniatures before. I have followed your videos and advice and the results have been fantastic on my end! Thanks for making such great videos! Very helpful for the ones that need a little spoon feeding 😅

[@MiniatureRealms]

That’s awesome, so glad to hear you’re getting into a great hobby, and also that my videos have helped in some way.

[@simonwilliams3546]

You must have the patience of a saint. Another truly awesome video, I just wish I had a steady hand and a tenth of your talent

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you Simon that’s very kind 😊

[@timokirschberger3053]

Thank you so much! I followed your tutorial, only adjusting for the specific colours needed for my regiment of choice: the unlucky Inniskillings. And it worked brilliantly! And I’m not a great painter. Great video, really.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you Timo 😊

[@joeswift403]

A great instructional video. Only used contrast paints for painting wood effects but they really do the trick here, especially with so many to paint!

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊 I started using them for wood and leather effects as well, the range of browns are yellows are very good.

[@patrickvd7587]

Great video.Thank you.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@markmorris2207]

Your painting is really nice on these figs. Thanks for showing how nice the miniatures look with a good paint job! Your video is the best I have seen so far on these minis!

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@Hagiastheite]

Awesome! Thank you for this. Really helps a very average painter like me see how to make these models look good.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@bickercity6392]

You always make this stuff look so easy. Hopefully my French will come out half as well as these British look.

[@MiniatureRealms]

They’re honestly a lot easier to paint than they look.

[@tri-starwargaming]

Awesome work! We are looking at getting into the waterloo set as well. My buddy wants the French and I will be taking the red coats. Def will be saving this video to help us out

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you. Looking forward to seeing you guys do some videos on it.

[@grahamfennell7081]

Thanks Stuart never painted like this before so notes taken,new paints to buy fun times ahead

[@MiniatureRealms]

Let us know how you get on, if you have any questions give me a shout.

[@mattd.8945]

I like this sculpt a lot, a very nice, simple pose. I wish they had done this for the American Civil War models

[@MiniatureRealms]

They learnt a lot from the first ACW release

[@SemperFidelis903]

Wish they would rerelease ACW Union Infantry with fewer slouch hats and bedding rolls and more backpacks and kepis. The originals are not uniform enough, especially if modeling the Army of the Potomac.

[@ratelmike8825]

They look absolutely fantastic Stuart, The detail is great and easy to pick up it looks like. I like you basing technique as well

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you. I’ll cover the basing in the next video, it’s the same as I’m using for my ACW as it’s quite neutral.

[@Drewheed1]

Unreal as ever Stuart!

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you Drew 😊

[@miketike3246]

Great tutorial as always Stewart! For those who watched this and may have some doubts as to whether you could paint models this small and make them look good, I can reassure you about a couple things from my experience of painting up the Epic Scale Civil War starter set. In 13.5mm scale, you will be amazed at how much you can get away with. Stewart is doing an absolutely fabulous job here of course. But doing the Zenithal as he did, combined with things like the Citadel Contrasts, washes, inks, etc. you can get the primary colors of the troops covered very, very quickly, and more importantly get your shading and highlighting done in one pass. This is awesome because Stew would be the first to tell you that at this scale, it's as much about slight of hand and the illusion of detail as it about actually painting individual details. Specifically, for faces and hands you can see how great of a job the flesh Contrast does in shading and highlighting the faces all in one go. It is simply not practical to try paint each face with flesh colored paint, then do a wash and then a dry brush highlight. It will take you years to get all the strips painted trying to do it the old way. You'll also notice how he uses the Zenithal undercoat itself to provide the colors of the cros straps and knapsack straps. Excellent, effective use of time. Planning it so that a part of the model can actually be left in the undercoat color is briiliant. And finally, you notice that he doesn't paint the silver on the bayonets completely solid over the entire surface. No need to. All you need at this scale is the illusion of glinting metal and all that requies is getting silver on some parts of the pointed tops. Also remember that the troops are in two ranks, so you if you happen to be not as neat on some strips as you are on other strips, just put the not quite so neat paint jobs in the back row, and they will be largely covered by the troops in front of them. Another interesting and appealing aspect of this scale is, if you pause the video at 9:27 - you COULD for all intents and purposes leave the models at this stage and call them done and they would look fine on the tabletop. Now of course it doesn't take that much more effort to paint in the gold on the metal shako plates, etc. But for the purpose of achieving that massed ranks look you could leave them like this and you'll find them to look very satisying all ranked up. But adding in the extra details like Stew does here will make a difference and it only adds to the overall aesthetic. And I can't stress enough, that for this scale, Contrasts and inks are absolutely your best bet for getting through hundreds and hundreds of soldiers. You can do certain details in traditional paints for sure. But I found that to get through all of these without going crazy, you definitely want to go the route fo a white or light gray undercoat and then use your Contrasts over that. If you try to use traditional paints and then try to do actual washes and dry brush highlights in this scale, you'll slowly go insane. At least that was my experience until I switched over the Contrasts, lol.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Love this, star comment, thank you Mike 😊

[@southaussielad2496]

Best comment so far, my first warmaster minis took hours to paint and I couldn't achieve the desired look, switched to inks and contrast and can now smash out whole armies in a couple of hours. Really only the front rows and end minis need to be painted nicely, the rest can be blocked in and left at that.

[@NicGamz]

Smashing good job. Well done! Keep up the good work and take care. 👍

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@basicminiaturepainting]

Excellent tutorial Stuart,I'm pre-ordering this brigade deal tomorrow.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you, and glad you’re jumping on board with it.

[@WarGamingNewbHistorical]

Great tutorial! Thanks for doing this. You make it look easy!

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@markwarne893]

Good luck painting all those minis !!

[@MiniatureRealms]

😅 I’ll probably need it yes 🤣

[@thekameleon9785]

You make it look easy

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@NSYresearch]

Having seen Kens figures and your work I'm now decided. When I start building a Nap army for Black Powder these are the ones to use. I dug out the Epic ACW sprue from WI and I'm practicing on them. Contrast paints are really the way to go.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Couldn’t agree more, I’m looking forward to trying Army Painters versions when they’re out as well.

[@sagebrother]

Ken’s figures? Can you share a link or is Ken the author of the WI tutorial?

[@NSYresearch]

@@sagebrother Miniature Wargameing Warriors chanel here on KZbin

[@sagebrother]

@@NSYresearch Thanks and “oh, no…another channel to follow!!”

[@NSYresearch]

@@sagebrother Fraid so.... do you watch The Plastic Crack Podcast on Monday night. 8pm GMT

[@BrushQuill]

A nice guide, lots of great tips in there applicable to any figures that come in a strip down to 3mm!

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@donbarnett7137]

Love it. These guys turned out amazing. Looking forward to seeing more of these.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you Don 😊

[@Edward-Plantagenet]

Outstanding video! Really looking forward to the others, particularly as I am planning to use Contrasts too. I had planned to go the AB route for my return to Naploeonics (having had AB before for two armies I sold off years ago when I emigrated - gutted!) BUT they are hellish expensive and almost demand a complex paint job. This Warlord release has come out just in time! The highlights you added really do make the figures pop and, while it will be more time consuming, I won't be as time consuming as AB IMO.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you, I’m glad you like the video. I love AB, I nearly chose them myself about a year ago, but the price, the availability, and the fact they’d take almost as long as 28mm to paint put me off eventually. I also wanted big looking units, and with the cost of some modern 15mm you still end up with 24 men, effectively just shrinking 28mm slightly. That’s where this range has captured me most I think.

[@MillersMiniatures]

Really nice job Stu. These have come out wicked. Look forward to seeing your progress on this project 😁👍

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thanks Miller 😊

[@philRminiatures]

Nice tuto, impressive and beautiful paint job...and superb mass effect!👍

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@jesuscarrillofernandez4052]

Enhorabuena por el video!!

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 🙂

[@lbwstrategygaming]

looks good, thanks for the info. Lots to paint LOL

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@squigs1917]

Excellent video, I have used contrast paints before and this video certainly shows it’s benefits and taking your time to be neat I shall be adding some more colours to my stock 😁 thanks for the video great help and great video

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@user-rz2ye5hv5i]

Absolutely awesome 👏

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@garycassar8257]

Brilliant stu such detail for the scale, even tho I’m not collecting I am enjoying the project journey like all your other stuff

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you Gary

[@TheEccentricMan]

Nicely done.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you

[@billroy7860]

Absolutely wonderful Stewart, if this video doesn't instigate a huge flurry of desire to paint British style uniforms then I don't know what could. (Can I just ask one very big favour - could you please just list in the description the paints you use in a video - just so we can all copy them down and make a shortage of them in the gaming shops! LOL Seriously would be appreciated.)

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you Bill, and yes I’ll add a list in.

[@billroy7860]

@@MiniatureRealms Thank you Stuart, that is brilliant. :)

[@miketike3246]

The brilliant thing that Stewart is doing here is letting the whitish gray of the Zenithal dry brush be the actual colors of all the intricate equipment details on the front of the soldiers. All of those cross-straps and leather was white/buff color any way. So here Stewart uses the dry brush of the Zenithal to bring out all that fine detail of the straps crossing back and forth, rather than actually try to paint them in over a black undercoat say. At this scale it would be virutally impossible to paint the coat underneath red first, and then try to paint all those straps by hand. I know at least I don't have the steadiness to do it!

[@MiniatureRealms]

🙂

[@miketike3246]

@@MiniatureRealms Sorry, didn't mean to repeat myself in two different comments. But I really wanted to emphasize your excellent use of the Zenithal to take care of all that strapping! I know a lot of new painters would look at the fronts of the British soldiers and go, "Ohhhh no, a tiny brush nightmare!"

[@MiniatureRealms]

Please don’t apologise, I love to see that kind of detail in the comments, means my videos are doing what I hoped 😊

[@TheRendar]

excellent video! please do one on the French . keep up the great videos.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊 I’ll do one on the French as soon as I can, but I only have British review stock, so it will have to wait until the release. Ken over at Miniature Wargaming Warriors has some French now though and will be doing painting videos soon, so worth checking checking his videos.

[@SolventAbuseUk]

cool job

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you

[@namacron4357]

Good video. Thanks

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you

[@ryanhill2348]

Fantastic, thank you!!!

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@garybramley9868]

They look amazing, Can't wait for the French.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊 I’ll definitely be doing some French when my order arrives in Jan, Ken over at Miniature Wargaming Warriors has French review stock, I know he’s planning on releasing some painting videos for them very soon.

[@marcellocolombarini1653]

Great work🇬🇧👏🏻👏🏻

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you

[@infinitecrazymonkeys4752]

Great work Stuart, have been binge-watching your hobby vlogs and they have renewed my focus on getting my own Black Powder projects done, thank you good sir! Something I noticed on these British troops you painted is that the soldiers on the right (as you look at them) have the large ‘wing’ style epaulets which usually denoted a regiment’s flank companies. I’m far from an expert but believe that typically a regiment had the The light companies positioned on their left flank, and were denoted by green plumes on their shako’s, and the Grenadiers on the right with pure white plumes. I had a look at a picture of the sprues and it does seem that there are indeed two strips with the wing epaulets on the left and two with them on the right. I don’t know if this was a hard and fast rule but something I’ve seen folk do on some Napoleonic regiments.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you Shaun, I’m glad my videos have got you back to focussing on your own projects. You’re totally right with the flank company sculpts, there are four strips on the sprue for flank companies (so one full base for each flank). I thought like you that the Light and Grenadier companies had the colours you mentioned, but couldn’t find a reference image for the KGL so just made them all the same for now, with the idea to check for part 2 of the video. Good spot though, and thank you for mentioning it.

[@MiniatureRealms]

I can see the first line of your second reply but KZbin has auto deleted it I’m afraid, anything you can’t post you can always get via the links in the description (Facebook/Instagram/Twitter/email) etc.

[@welshwargamer2066]

Cracking job on these mate

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊

[@joken-actual]

Stu really good video. I did my ACW Union in 5 contrast stripes (hats, faces, jackets, trousers and boots) and then went back in to pick out the detail; hands, belts, muskets etc. I was wondering whether that would work here but the white webbing would be a killer. I think you have the better approach so I’ll be following this route but only as far as a table top standard. I think my painting would stall, like D’Erlons corps, if I went for your level of detail! I have also been wondering about painting a sprue as the front rank, with buttons and plates as you have done and then a sprue of back ranks with a focus on the straps and meal bags etc as a way of avoiding painting detail that is actually going to be between the two strips on the base and not that easy to see anyway. With 13 regiments to paint (Starter Box at 3 bases to a regiment) I think any time saving might be worth having? Hopefully down the line you’ll have some ‘painting conversions’ for the ranked Rifles and some ‘kilt tips’ for the Highlanders that have recently been revealed?

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you John. You can certainly paint on the details with regular paints, but you’re right about white being the hardest colour to do that with neatly. You’re totally right about the front and rear rank thing, I should probably be doing that myself, leaving them at the pre-highlight stage, attaching them to the base and then highlighting the respective exposed front/back, would certainly save loads of time.

[@davidgeister]

Bravo!

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you

[@johnclarke9498]

I liked that very good 👍

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you

[@winning_by_name]

Would priming in mechanicus standard grey with the white drybrush be advisable ? Great tutorial!

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you. Yes a grey prime and white drybrush works really well for this.

[@johnclarke9498]

Brill and amazing details 👍👍 Did you use a wash after you finished them 🤔

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you John. No I didn’t do anymore stages other than what was shown.

[@aossi6738]

Brilliant and takes away a lot of my fears of doing this. Thanks. I am wondering why you decided not to use any washes. I suppose the contrast paint does this for you ?

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you. Yep I felt I just didn’t need to do washes, keeps it much cleaner. The pre-highlight/shade does much of the heavy lifting with adding shadow.

[@lewiskeal977]

Will you be doing a contrast guide for the cavalry, I have mine from WI and I don’t know where to start.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Hi Lewis, yes it’s definitely planned in, hopefully before Christmas, but there’s 2/3 in the world first. Second infantry one is out later today, then I’m hoping the next couple will be quicker to record so hope to speed them up a bit.

[@Rusty_Gold85]

Some good tips thank You . Some wave 2 items came out today and with it was Engineers Highlanders , 95TH and Middle guard ? Not sure what they're thinking at all . The skirmishing 95th are fine no doubt , But Engineers ? What about Dutch Belgian Nassau Old Guard Chasseur Guard , Young Guard ?

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you. The Engineers is a bit of an odd one for sure, maybe not what I would have done, though there’s a bit of chatter about using them as other things. From what I know I think Old Guard will come on the sprue with the middle guard, they just didn’t show any renders. (It’s all on the same sprue with the engineers I think, so I’m assuming a brigade box will only make a unit of each). The highlanders and rifles are a sprue as well, and I think just those, so the Rifles are filling the space where the ranked up rifles do in the regular one. I’d have love to have been in the room when they decided what to put on those sprues, because it certainly seems like there are more obvious options. But saying that I don’t mind all that much, would just have preferred a different route. Personally I’ll be making good use of the Rifles, the project I’ve got planned will be able to use them quite nicely - I’ll just have to ignite the Baker Rifles at times 😂

[@Rusty_Gold85]

@@MiniatureRealms I just looked ( and no expert btw ) The Rifles can also be painted up as Hanoverian /KGL Light ?

[@MiniatureRealms]

Yep absolutely, mine will be KGL light to start with, but they work well for a few other things as well if you ignore the rifles.

[@norm977]

Superb, from your last tutorial I ordered some contrast paints and they have arrived, so I will be trying this out. As an aside, my 'old' ears struggle to separate your voice from the video music.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you, hope you get on well with the contrast paints. Thanks for the note on the sound, I’ll make sure the music is a little lower in the mix on the next video (I think there’s a part where it gets louder in the repeated part, so that might be what’s happening).

[@Rusty_Gold85]

Just a tip for Contrast paints . keep constantly washing the brushes , like every 15 minutes . It clogs brisltles quickly .Shake pot long and hard before use and a few times while using . ( also : Use fresh water and couple drops of liquid hand wash and dry on paper towel ). I found guilliman flesh better hue

[@MiniatureRealms]

Yep all good tips, I have my brush soap in constant use. I’ve been using Guilliman flesh for the British infantry.

[@norm977]

@@Rusty_Gold85 thanks, A bloke at Games Workshop impressed on me the importance of shaking, but I am surprised at the clogging as it is all so thin, thanks for the tip, hopefully it will also keep the brush in better condition.

[@sagebrother]

Hi Stuart. Excellent and very informative as usual. I used Gore Grunta on my ACW rifles and think it nicer/more realistic choice than the original WI ACW tutorial suggestion. I’m looking forward to getting a sprue of these figures but I can’t help but think of the Nutcracker (especially as its almost December) every time I see the backpacks on these troops. Far too uniform (excuse the pun) in my opinion. While the heads/hats on the ACW were probably disproportionately wrong and more centric to the Confederates, these have no variety which seems a shame. Even the ACW had beards/no beards but I guess the Brits weren’t allowed to have facial hair! Great job and looking forward to all the subsequent Nap tutorials to come. Paul

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you Paul 😊 I totally agree with the Gore-Grunta, I’m using the cryptex armour shade on my ACW, but I’ decided to not use it for these. I don’t mind the uniformity too much, but I know what you mean. I quite the Rifles for their more relaxed file (ignoring the fact they maybe we didn’t need them in line 😂).

[@GrahamWalters]

I'm a bit late to the party on this, contemplating on getting the British starter box, can you tell us what size brushes you use ?

[@MiniatureRealms]

I do most of my work with size 1 & 2, I prefer to use the 2 as much as possible. With a decent brush and good brush care a good point on a size 2 can deal as much detail as a smaller brush, but with more bristles it can hold more paint which reduced the the the issue with paint drying on the brush. I do however use sizes 0 & 1 as well occasionally.

[@benwilson999]

Brilliant guide as always, can I ask what brush you use here? I'm having issues with the ends fraying and struggle to keep a fine enough point for this small detail work. Thank you

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊 I mostly use Broken Toad and Rosemary & co series 33 brushes. The former are my favourites but a little more expensive (and sometimes out of stock).

[@adamcox8857]

This is brilliant. I’ve bought a sprue to have a go at this but I’d rather not buy a whole bunch of new contrast paints (I mostly have Vallejo). If you had to buy two, which would you say were most essential?

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you. Contrast Blood Angels Red is by far the most important I’d say, then I’d be tempted to say Contrast Basilicanun Grey for the trousers next, but if you stretch to Contrast Black Templar as well that’s most of the miniature. You can then easily substitute Vallejo paints for the others used.

[@adamcox8857]

@@MiniatureRealms Brilliant - thank you! My infantry are already primed - just waiting for the new paints to arrive now!

[@theenigmaticgamer]

Very impressive and helpful video. You make it look oh so easy 😁. I am looking at 15mm as a move over from 28’s. I noted with interest your comment about AB miniatures and their being so detailed for painting purposes. I am looking to get figures painted to a decent standard on the table as soon as possible. Can I ask if you have a preferred or recommended range of 15’s from a simple painting standpoint? Just subscribed. Thanks Keith

[@MiniatureRealms]

Hi Keith, thank you for the lovely comment. I think from a painting point of view AB miniatures are probably the best out there in a smaller scale, but it’s worth noting they’re 18mm really, quite expensive, and sometimes hard to get hold of. So in many ways they can cost you more and still take as much time to paint as 28mm. I personally like Warlords ‘Epic Scale’ as it ticks a few boxes for me. They’re still really nice sculpts (but not technically as good or a accurate as AB), they’re plastic and good value, I love the aesthetic that the strips give, as a mass effect it’s my favourite that I’ve seen for Napoleonic Wargaming. I’d say it’s all down to what you want from them, and how you intend to use them.

[@theenigmaticgamer]

@@MiniatureRealms Thanks for your views.I suppose it’s a matter of compromise between plenty of detail, ease of painting on the one hand and price and availability on the other. Being a long time 28mm gamer I need to give it careful thought. It was the visual appeal of 28s that first appealed to me, but even with a reasonably sized gaming table I can’t seem achieve the look of a big battle. I agree with you on the visual appeal of the Epic scale, which is why I am looking at a change of scale. I’ll be following your progress with interest. Cheers Keith

[@kissfan6321]

Do you use magnifying glasses to see the detail?? I bought the British starter set and they same so small to me!!

[@MiniatureRealms]

No I’ve not need anything like that yet, but I do find I need my reading glasses while painting these days.

[@SemperFidelis903]

Batch Paint Steps: 1. Black spray primer 2. Dry brush white (not a zenithal) 3. Grey trousers 4. Dry brush skin color on face 5. Scarlet jackets (do not paint chest area w/crossbelts & on back, paint only bottom of jacket) 6. Black: backpacks(paint around straps), Shako, Shoes, and Cartridge Box 7. Brass shako plate 8. Brown musket stock 9. Silver musket barrel and bayonet 10. Dry brush skin color on hands 11. White to hackle on right side of Shako 12. Clear flat coat No washes. At this scale, you want bright colors to stand out at arms length distance. Also eliminates need to highlight after. Just have to be neat with base coats.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Good alternative

[@leonleese4919]

Did you miss the shoulder wings on the flank company?

[@MiniatureRealms]

No they’re painted, forgot to paint the plumes green in this one, but it’s all covered in part 2.

[@leonleese4919]

@@MiniatureRealms I missed that🤬

[@thomasroutier6480]

Amazing tutorial! How much time does it take you to paint that model?

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you 😊. Something around 2hrs (minus drying time) for a whole stand with two strips. I can trim a little time off that by batch painting.

[@thomasroutier6480]

Thanks! I see I have room for improvement. So far 4-5 hours in and I'm just done with the faces highlights 😅

[@thomasroutier6480]

Have you thought about showing your wet palette for your tutorials? It would be great insights on how much you load your brush and thin your paint.

[@MiniatureRealms]

I have, but I’ve become a bit more conscious of the length of my video tutorials since filming this. Also adding the palette probably needs a separate camera, the amount of extra editing here makes me want to cry 😂. But if I could do it easily I would as I agree it would improve the videos. It’s definitely on my list of potentials for when I can do it without it doubling the recording/editing time. It would be very useful if and when I’m recording a video on higher standard of painting, where I’m playing around with mixes a lot more. As it stands Epic is mostly straight from the pot Contrast/Speed Paint, and slightly thinned regular paint for highlights as you would teach a beginner/intermediate painter (like a Duncan video), but I will make sure I talk more about that for each colour as I probably don’t cover that enough, thank you.

[@thomasroutier6480]

Indeed that sounds like a lot of work for a limited added value in the context of painting 10mm models. Keep up with the great work.

[@mattcappelli5822]

Looks really good! How long did it take you to paint one strip? Curious as to how quickly I can get enough strips painted to start playing

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you Matt. Funnily enough I’m not 100% sure on time, when I paint for a tutorial it’s not the same way as I would without the camera on, takes me much longer with all the messing around so I didn’t time it. I’ve been working on some since, but not finished them yet, I have a feeling around 45-60 mins per strip, but hoping to see that time lower with repetition and batch painting.

[@mattcappelli5822]

@@MiniatureRealms makes sense. Hadn’t thought about having to fuss with a camera. But if you have it down to 60 min a strip, that’s really good. I’m not a huge fan of contrast paint as a main base coat, but I can see at this scale it can save the shading step. Looking forward to trying army painters version of contrast. Should be timed nicely when these lovelies get released

[@MiniatureRealms]

Yes I wonder if there will be some packs sold by Warlord aimed at this, I’m eager to try it too. Like you you I don’t normally use it for whole base layers, well at least not at 28mm, though I maybe use it for certain colours, it’s range of browns are brilliant for wood and leather over a pre-highlight.

[@roguetrooper5401]

They look great mate only 790 ish to go

[@MiniatureRealms]

🤣 Thank you 😊

[@artfuldodger9312]

Where can I get the miniatures from in the UK?

[@MiniatureRealms]

The release date is January (they have hinted 1st Jan but not confirmed), I was lucky enough to be sent some review frames. You can get it direct from Warlord Games, or via local independent games stores. The Dec issue of Wargames Illustrated has a free sprue of Heavy Cavalry (random British/French), I think that hits the shops today.

[@artfuldodger9312]

@@MiniatureRealms Thank you very much for your kind help. I think your painting are brilliant.

[@MiniatureRealms]

Thank you, that’s very kind 😊

[@phillip121224]

How long do you let the colours dry between the takes?

[@MiniatureRealms]

I’m not really sure if I’m honest, it’s not something I thing I too much about in regards to time. Definitely not long, it’s dries pretty quick, I don’t feel like I’m waiting around much if that makes sense.

[@MichaelAinge]

I ordered the French paint set for the epic scale. What's the best way of getting a good shade with those?

[@MiniatureRealms]

I’m not sure what the contents are, is it Vallejo or Army painter?

[@MichaelAinge]

@@MiniatureRealms it's Vallejo

[@MiniatureRealms]

I’ve just had a look at the set, it’s a good start for base colours, but not much in the way of highlights. Send me a message on FB either on Miniature Realms or personally and we can have a chat about your approach and if I can think of any good tips.

[@MichaelAinge]

@@MiniatureRealms cheers

[@bruhmcnam4809]

Hey, quick question what is the name of the paint brush you used?

[@MiniatureRealms]

It’s been a while since I made this video so so it could have something over with forgotten, but I use Rosemary & Co series 33. In some videos I also use Broken Toad brushes (light coloured handle), but they’re no longer available. Size wise mostly 2, 1 & 0.

[@bruhmcnam4809]

Thanks and also another question what was that metal thing that you used at 2:15

[@bruhmcnam4809]

Nevermind it’s called an airbrush okay thanks!

[@petersouthall6699]

do you paint with a magnifier

[@MiniatureRealms]

No I’ve not had to yet, maybe in the future when my eyes start to fail me.

[@AbuHildago]

… and Hundreds more to Go 😃🙈

[@MiniatureRealms]

Oh yes 😂

[@happy45rm]

But you didn’t do the eyes

[@MiniatureRealms]

I did, but they all blinked at the same time when I took the photo 🤷‍♂️ 😂

[@shaynebray4085]

What you say is interesting and important - please cut the music when you are talking as it is very distracting!

[@MiniatureRealms]

Yeah sorry I left the music a little high in the mix in places, it’s quieter on the next videos.