We all make mistakes…

[@tedchapple]

I always do stool first. Then side extensions sit on stool with reveal cut to correct length for matching reveal for top extension.

[@johnsaxontube]

Hey Richard- I have bevel siding and traditional wood windows on my house. I believe the casing on the exterior of the window is supposed to be attached directly to the sheathing, not the surface of the siding. So the window jamb would be mounted flush to the sheathing, with the siding butting up against the window casing. This also avoids having triangular holes where the casing overlays the siding. You'd just need to cut back the siding with a circular saw and guide to allow room for the casing. So I think you wouldn't then need jamb extensions. Really enjoy watching your content!

[@HBSuccess]

Total kludge to nail a window over the top of the clapboards. Rich still has a lot to learn 😂

[@KnightGravy]

Am from NYC, even tho I’ve moved around a lot, my whole life I’ve been convinced/told that Texas is arid and barren. Some of the parts I’ve been to were, but to see all this weather recently has been enlightening. First you teach me carpentry now you’re teaching me geography. Richard doing a better job than public schools!

[@ryanlynch9100]

That stair step reveal would look 👌👍 I thought it was all about SHADOW LINES....Extensions to Window Jamb and Extensions to Casing reveals 🔥

[@KenHill]

Doing flush jam extensions, the line will never go away and it will never look very good. ALWAYS do them with a reveal! Much easier, too.

[@DrewMtl]

Nice nailing tip. I probably would have done one corner then the other corner. but your micro adjustment pivots make more sense.

[@bstam7628]

Usually do a reveal and only bring the extension down as far as the top of your stool. Makes it very easy to install stool that way too. Excellent craftsmanship as usual!!!

[@rickcimino743]

looking forward to seeing how you're going to do the sill/stool. I always do the stools first....and bring the extension jambs down onto it. So, I'm looking forward to how you do it differently. Thanks Richard

[@godbluffvdgg]

Me too. ALWAYS starts at the bottom...35 years a carpenter...

[@christopherinteriors6521]

I have to make these quite often but I always leave a reveal, purely as the aris has already been sanded off and it would need filling/sanding/painting. I always find that more reveals give a more ornate look but again it would depend on what the client wants.

[@codycarver4554]

Always add the extra reveal on jamb extensions. Flush NEVER looks perfect. Even if you bondo the flush seam line it will never look perfect. Just give it a 3/16" reveal that can be caulked. Just my opinion as a 25 year finish carpenter.

[@sparklander]

Thank you for the explanations on why you choose to use a particular installation method. It seems like your rare "mistakes" provide your viewers with a learning opportunity. Thank you.

[@615installations]

From a window treatment guy… you’re making the right choice; if you decide on an inside mounted window treatment (shade/blind/roman shade) you’ll have many more options and a cleaner install later. For example, a lot of these newer-style craftsman designs, there are so many layers of trim in a window that we often can’t have as clean of install as we’d like to be able to provide a customer. Great video!

[@CybekCusal]

I usually screw the stool into the jam extensions from below and install the whole thing as a unit

[@theretired7927]

Richard. You are so lucky in the USA, here in the UK you hardly need a nailer all brick and plasterboard (drywall).

[@garysullivan8203]

45 years in the finishing end of carpentry. I really can’t remember doing a flush build out……ever. For all of the posted reasons.

[@evictioncarpentry2628]

I always leave a reveal on the extension and then the casing. Never flush IMO. Always want that shadow line.

[@roylbates4155]

a little putty a little paint makes us carpenters what we anit....

[@Erik_The_Viking]

Beautiful work, and great tips for starting at one end and working to the other end.

[@TM-xm4zo]

Tony your a True gentleman.... From your Big mate Terry. Hope all's good with you man😊 All I need is a new titanium knee n I'll be back at it lol I do beg my pardon for any dramas caused. You smashed it out the park, Jimmy,paddy and space are proud of ya brother Keep the faith. Peace out ❤ Had to edit.... wish William space a speedy recovery.

[@KingHarry1]

I always use liquid nails and a brad nailer when securing unlike woods together as for jamb extensions it’s really up to the customer whether to leave a reveal or not as matching the other window trims in the house is usually desired

[@godbluffvdgg]

lol....Yeah, let a customer tell me how to trim...Unless your customer is Norm Abrams...You do it the tried and true way ALL trim carpenters do it.

[@furyofthenorthman600]

Appreciate your channel. Learning more every day

[@make749perday]

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect." ---Mark Twain

[@jerryleejohnsonjr1377]

Great tips from a great channel. Thanks for sharing all the little details you are thinking about while you are working. very helpful!

[@jonrutherig6300]

Nice work as always..funny how not considering everything when ordering windows can either mess you up or be a benefit...if you order paint grade easy fix most of the time..if needing inside to be wood finished look can still fix issue....nice job still...I never rush jobs or ordering..think on things several days so not to miss anything....not clients fault...can cost you!! 😊

[@yongzzwoodworkz8944]

As a carpenter every job or project is a learning and add up knowledge, thanks for sharing, by the way sir, piece of advice always wear safty googls(impact proof) even small job, make it a hobbit, thats what happen to me for i only wore prescription glasses it went through my eye😢 😢😢. For this just a reminder to fellow carpenters always safety first.

[@am11744]

I would not recommend keeping it flush , when the two components move they will create a crack in the paint, Even when glued and nailed .

[@coachwalrus3158]

Build the whole thing on the ground. Screw stool up through extension then case it. Plunk it in one shot with a reveal top and sides

[@joshuawebster4272]

On the previous vid, when you set the window, it seems like you set the window plumb with a level, as opposed to setting it a consistent distance from the drywall with your measure tape...........not sure how your jamb extension came out to a perfect 3/4" w/o setting it with a constant distance from the drywall because drywall or walls are not always plumb, as we all know. Great vids.

[@kwik5150]

Thanks for making this one. I needed that trick. I always do it nice cuz I do it twice 😜

[@DGALVIN45]

Diggin the kizen miter fence for the makita 👌

[@danielyeary148]

You should have left an eighth reveal. No matter how good you think you got that seam, it'll show up eventually. Adding a reveal eliminates that problem

[@erinkennedy2417]

Always go for a reveal. Second best option if you dont want a reveal is to chamfer or round the edge of extension jambs and install flush giving you a groove to hide any movement and make for an easy install. It can look pretty good too!

[@samgriffin6221]

100 %

[@-43645]

Always leave a reveal. You wouldn’t put your casing flush with the jamb ? The same is true for jamb extensions. The only time I see jamb extensions flush with the jamb is when DIYers do their own trim.

[@josephgreenwood5729]

Eh. You lose consistency throughout the rest of the house. I think a light construction adhesive, not wood glue, wouldn't have hurt. Wasn't that original jamb oak?

[@Dazza19746]

It won’t show eventually, it will show immediately! And be a regret forever ! Especially with the ‘thumb’ technique The only time I’d ever go flush if it’s jointed and glued oversize and sanded down, so it’s essentially a proper lamination Surprised at Richard as finish is his main thing, but mistakes lead to rash and silly mistakes….. ‘if I keep this flush it will look like I didn’t screw up the frame width…’

[@jefferyholland]

Jamb extensions on a window inside is good. Extensions on a door outside is better.

[@Arietje]

Really like the video, I also have to add some trim to hide some foam around my window.

[@235buz]

Semper Fi. Thanks for the great tips.

[@dougngwenlawson3886]

I'll be doing some window replacement in the very near future and I like the info you are providing it will help me out, thanks. Oh and the window looks awesome.

[@billwilson6096]

Nice work as usual Richard.

[@ramoncarrerajr.3052]

What is the narrowest window casing you have used? I installed cabinets and due to measurements I have about 1.5" left. Thank you. Keep up the great work.

[@playtimewitholivia1877]

Then do your trim a quarter inch gives it? A step effect looks really nice and easier to finish

[@rbproductions78]

I always thought the reveal was intentional to prevent having to try and mate two edges together which runs the risk of the paint cracking along the join line. Isn't that why reveals exist in the first place? I hope your works out mate

[@mrupholsteryman]

How about instead of installing a jamb extension....you could just put strip lighting in the gap for a kind of off axis lighting that would reflect off the glass for something new... might start a trend?!?

[@bryanherbage]

no not level with the face , as to will end up with crack in paintwork , set it back at least 2mm you should know it .

[@jaredcoyle9903]

Very true, can never hide flush installed trim. Always shows through eventually

[@YohanathanD]

I quit putting them flush. Even when sanded and filled the joint is liable to crack unless you use a flexible caulk, at which point it won't hide.

[@michaelplays2449]

Great video Richard !!! Thanks

[@OnkelPHMagee]

I got here because I just saw your fireplace mantel story on Brent H.'s channel. What are the paint colors that you used in your laundry room? I'm a nut for green.

[@whosgivin]

You should make a video of how to blend in the jamb!! I take it your gonna paint the jamb? Love the video

[@terencemerritt]

Looking good Richard. What are you going to do with the window stool

[@gundersonflooringanddesign4064]

Good carpentry lesson for DYI. Nicely explained. When you are making precise cuts do you typically leave the line on, take the line off, or cut through the middle? I usually leave the line on and cut to the side of it, this way it leaves my full and accurate measurement I could trim into it afterwards if I need to make it smaller.

[@finntexbuild4809]

Richard, don’t worry about space between jam and trim, just caulk it 😂. 🤠🇫🇮

[@bobbyadamo152]

How would you extend the sill , or do have have something else in mind ?

[@cjsawinski]

And NOOOOO!!! NEVER do extension jams flush with the window frame! That’s Joe homeowner shit and will look like shit when that paint seems cracks and separates…. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS do a reveal of some sort! Typical is 3/16, sometimes a larger reveal makes more sense. It gives the painter a corner to caulk and paint rather than trying to fill a seam which will ALWAYS open up and move in time.

[@playtimewitholivia1877]

Should have stepped the jam extension off the frame by an eight inch for a nice caulk line

[@mez5590]

Love your channel. Is there a trick for the opposite problem? Jam extends farther than the drywall…

[@vicz8899]

Yes, build the trim out. That's what I did with my exterior doors. Old house, 2 x 4 doors too small, 2 x 6 doors too big.

[@murphymmc]

The only problem with a flush jamb extension is it will always look like a mistake, you will always see the line or a part of it. An offset to show a reveal looks intentional as it's another layer of detail. It doesn't have to be a square edged reveal, add a radius, add a chamfer, even a slight ogee adds some flavor, but a step is a key feature.

[@rickteeden8656]

Going to install an interior door where the wall is 1/2 out of plumb. Have to make the decision where I either install it flush to the drywall and have the door close by itself or install it plumb and have the jam sticking out pass the drywall. Now, when I install the casing and butt the wainscoting up to it, it’s not going to look very good. I should note that it’s a door to the bathroom so it’s ether open or closed all the time. Any advice?

[@markflajsner9944]

Thanks very much, interesting technique, nicely put.

[@TanukiDigital]

That's some basketball-sized hail! Texas is bonkers.

[@jonbartosch1903]

Seems like you would want to use the same material as the jam so the grain will match. I guess it's just a little strip, but it's going to be very smooth whereas the jam has noticeable grain.

[@charlesmoore8322]

What is the best way to attach the extensions if you have vinyl windows.

[@powderdescent]

What kind of fence is that for your Makita miter saw? I thought the kaizen system was only for DeWalt…

[@jordancalhouncom]

I had to do 1/4 extensions on my windows. Sucked doing that thin of extensions. Any tip when they are that thin?

[@Ryansroga-wm6pj]

Pretty cool!!

[@mitchdenner9743]

Got new construction windows, nailfin, jam extensions that were ordered with the windows is correct, doing a one piece frame style casing pocket screwed and glued together, problem is sheetrock near the corners seems to be proud ( old sheetrock beatup around the edges) and keeping the frame from sitting flush against the wall and the jam extension. Whats the best way to address this?

[@billthepainter5106]

Try shaving the drywall a little bit to help everything stay flush.

[@mitchdenner9743]

@@billthepainter5106 thought about that, and replacing sheetrock around the window. Figured their was an easy way.

[@billthepainter5106]

@@mitchdenner9743 They make a drywall rasp which will shave the drywall down really quick. They are $12-15 at the big box stores. Since you're installing trim over it, it doesn't matter what it looks like.

[@mitchdenner9743]

@@billthepainter5106 yes I'm familiar with it, gotta get one. Thanks

[@billthepainter5106]

@@mitchdenner9743 Good luck with it!

[@wf9150]

How do you keep your setback even?

[@rickysdrywall5288]

I always leave a reveal. I've seen to many done flush that separate over time.

[@billwilson6096]

Jeez I’ve never seen so many commenters worked up over such a simple thing as a reveal.

[@1AlexanderCole]

I can’t stand all the layers of reveal, love the clean flush look!

[@billwilson6096]

@@henrypeisch5289 I guess for your sake I should have added “or lack of a reveal”. Now what do you say?

[@ermannodangelo1062]

Everyone makes mistakes, but not everyone knows how to fix the mistake. Nice window hardware. What is the blue fence on mitre saw, did you make it? I just picked up a 12” corded Mikita to replace my 10”.

[@rbproductions78]

I have the 12" corded also but am disappointed that it comes with the laser and not a shadow light like the cordless versions. I contacted Makita (New Zealand) to see if I could buy and retro fit the shadow light and was told no because it will affect the warranty. Look out when the warranty is up! :)

[@ermannodangelo4087]

@@rbproductions78 Bought mine without laser, heard they were a pain in the a$$. Trying to figure out how to modify it too a shadow line.

[@trevorp875]

What do you do in the reverse? I have windows that I got installed and all the windows are proud. Same thing but add the extensions to the drywall?

[@jaredcoyle9903]

Extension on the back side of the trim flush with outside edge. Only need about 3/4” not entire trim profile

[@danielyeary148]

How far proud is the window

[@evictioncarpentry2628]

Add the extension to the trim edge. Or do a reveal on the trim.

[@jonanddarlenenunn767]

It's possible to run a planer around the jamb perimeter, only a little at a time to minimize blowout when you run across grain that is perpendicular to the piece that you are planing. I don't know how proud the jamb is beyond the drywall, it might be quicker/easier to build up the casing as others have suggested, if you build it up it won't match other windows/doors.

[@trevorp875]

@@danielyeary148 Depends but between an 1/8 and the worst is 1/4. Had old trim on 1950s home and wife wanted trim updated. Didn't notice the really bad windows until I had half the others done.

[@mib20000]

Pump up the jam, pump it up

[@mitchdenner9743]

Hate when my stool gets all over my apron.

[@billymurphy3]

I generally wear aprons on the front so I get my stool everywhere else

[@mitchdenner9743]

@@billymurphy3 good tip, I'll have to try that.👍

[@BellahWorks]

What windows are these?

[@alexsafonov7270]

Pump The Jamb! can we rename this process as a ‘Jamb pump’ ? Much cooler than a boring extension and arguably more appropriate as the jamb is being widened, or enhanced in the depth. Thus it is pumped 💪🏽 and made to be more ‘swole’ bro. 😎

[@osborncarpentry8550]

As some others have stated, never seen flush extension jambs. Interesting choice. Seems like it may have to be bondo’d and sanded to blend well and disappear. Still, great work

[@samgriffin6221]

Will always crack.

[@osborncarpentry8550]

@@samgriffin6221 yep. Trying to be optimistic, but you are correct.

[@samgriffin6221]

@@osborncarpentry8550 😂 yeah I know man

[@metamando]

That's been my experience too, eventually it will crack...

[@The_HomeHandyman]

What happened to using eye pro?

[@Djw92]

Strange how thin the external walls are

[@benchippy8039]

I do prefer the American style of window/door opening. In the Uk we just plasterboard the reveal, angle bead it and plaster it in. It’d have a windowboard fitted and done. Remember though our masonry walls are generally 300mm/12” thick.

[@firejack007]

I could never use Windsorone as I believe in natural colors rather than white.

[@thebeardedman-drenaline5546]

The Bob Ross of Carpentry 😂

[@DoraDominguezCarey]

... But, it is "beautiful"! Nice work - as always

[@jeradmiller4575]

I'm surprised that someone who loves trim details as much as you wouldn't leave a reveal just to boujee it up a smidge.

[@whendoesthisend]

thinking the same. now you have a line. eh

[@HBSuccess]

Big mistake trying to install an extension jamb with no reveal. It will always look like a mistake.

[@larrylotter7190]

I noticed that you didn't use the sliding feature on your table saw and wondered why?

[@aje.2126]

When ripping a board, you're likely trying to rip to a target width. The rip fence provides a reference surface that you can set to that width. When using the slider, you don't use the rip fence, so it's easier to just use the fence when ripping board. Crosscutting or sheet goods is where the sliding feature will shine.

[@larrylotter7190]

@@aje.2126 Thanks...great explanation

[@godbluffvdgg]

You should NEVER make an extension flushed with the jamb...I see in the comments, all the trim guys say the same thing. Well, at least it's not proud of the jamb...:)

[@RaulHernandez-ot7yp]

Sounds like a job for the bored stretcher

[@cjsawinski]

I don’t understand what you said about messing up the measurement for the siding on the exterior? Unless it’s a complete custom window/frame the exterior is just a “standard” projection and if your side has a 3/4” or 1/4” reveal then who cares?? This is coming from a guy that’s installed and trimmed thousands of windows… and most of them in high end custom home where the window itself could have cost up to $50k (yes up to $50k for just a window).

[@cjsawinski]

But ya setting windows is kind of just a standard practice… set window in opening, cross measure and shim it square (of course plumb and level as well). Then from the interior pull the window into the opening until flush with drywall, if you need extension jams to get to drywall then measure all 4 corners to drywall to make sure extension jams are all going to be equal rips. Window wrap, screws in jams, caulking, roofing nails in nailing fins… done

[@cjsawinski]

@@henrypeisch5289 ya that’s basically what I was trying to say, maybe didn’t use the proper wording. Also didn’t watch earlier video so I don’t know if he built the window frame himself or whatever happened. One thing I don’t understand is if there’s nailing fins on the exterior… is there a 3/4 gap to exterior sheeting from the fins? Or extra furring material out there preventing him from pulling the window into the opening the extra 3/4? But ya what you said is right, exterior side of shouldn’t matter at all, just pull the window fins tight to sheathing….

[@sasaran13242]

Not me!

[@abeltavaresperez7948]

2nd place champ 😮

[@bilabrin]

Could you not just rout a pocket step in the back side of the trim and step the trim inward to mate with the jam and the drywall?

[@jonanddarlenenunn767]

Yes you could but your window casing would have to be 1 1/2 " thick. If I am understanding what you are asking.

[@bilabrin]

@@jonanddarlenenunn767 yes that sounds correct. Not the casing, the trim piece. It would step inwards to meet the casing. I could see it being impractical as a general rule but in this case it might be an easy custom fix.

[@jonanddarlenenunn767]

​@@bilabrin I agree👍

[@GEE_Money949]

Yes sir 😅

[@ernestoesquerra2302]

Todos.

[@TheTUNAFAM]

1st and Still Champion!!!

[@timothysanders132]

love your content but way to long out a window install lol

[@EMattHowerton]

Keyboard Contractors in the comments section. 😂😂😂

[@holyrollerguitars]

2nd like 👍🏽 😎🎸✌🏽🕊✈️🦯💙✝️ Love the ch. 👏🏽👷🏼‍♂️👷🏼‍♂️

[@stevenhansen8641]

🕶🇺🇸

[@abcdefghi2175]

dummy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! talking bout myself NOT YOU MASTER YODA LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!!!!

[@calvinjones2136]

Boring

[@MrTomomahony]

always step the trim back to form a step ,putting it flush it will crack over time