We convert a Lada motor to air cooling

[@festungkurland9804]

air cooled often basically means oil cooled. so add a big oil cooler and more oil capacity.

[@lasskinn474]

well, you could just replace the cooling liquid with oil and drill a hole to combine the circuits or have the return back down through the radiator from the head

[@a.x.l.2.078]

Agree

[@volvo09]

My air cooled Honda motorcycle has a pretty large oil cooler in front of the engine. The 4 cylinder engine doesn't have big fins on the cylinders, so it's all done by the oil cooler.

[@TheRattyBiker]

Nah.... Air cooled often means a whopping great set of fins around the cylinder, great air flow and no seperate oil radiator.... There are plenty of classic examples that prove that... It didn't work out too great in higher compression and / or 4 stroke engines hence the advancement to air cooled oil radiators.... Which actually work quite well - simple example is Suzuki Bandit 600, popular, reliable, high compression 4 cylinder 4 stroke.....

[@CommeradeZhukov]

I did that to a 91 Chevy lumina in high school, I added a condenser from a window ac unit as an oil cooler, set the radiator fan to always run and cut some air vents into the hood for a sporty look 😆. Oh yeah and I also ran some dryer duct to where the water pump used to be towards the fan so air could circulate through the engine and come out where the radiator hoses used to be. The car ran like that until the chassis rusted through and had to be scrapped.

[@jerrywinsler6190]

As someone else mentioned air cooled engine aren't just air cooled they're also oil cooled. The VW beetle has a small radiator for the oil sticking up off the engine inside the air handler.

[@IDT69]

A Deutz is an example of an air cooled engine

[@NOONE-hp8bw]

My bike is just air cooled. 1992 xj600s diversion/seca II. I am going to be adding a oil cooler because it does get a bit toasty.

[@girlsdrinkfeck]

and Florida is hotter than 85 degrees lool

[@freakyfreerider]

All air cooled engines that have lubrication systems are "oil cooled". The flow of oil from the cylinder head back down displaces heat from the top end.

[@kylereese4822]

2 turbo charger compressors belt driven... 1 the water inlet sucking in air to keep head cool >> 1 on the outlet sucking the heat away from the block... ?

[@eliask6180]

did a conversion similar to this to a industrial diesel engine a few years back, because it had a hairline crack in the block and burned coolant. I used a big turbocharger, driven by exhaust like usual, but the compressor side was connected to the engines water jackets. Where possible also holes and slits were made in the block, to have the air circualte. That engine runs flawlessly to this day

[@brockallentaylor]

Using the turbo to force air into the water jackets is a pretty damn brilliant idea.

[@HA05GER]

now that is cool

[@Adam-nv9zo]

That is ingenuity at its finest. 👏 👏 👏

[@mrrooter601]

please try this

[@brockallentaylor]

If this is around and working still, you should make a video of it. It would definitely do well.

[@700TRX]

Surface area. You need cooling fins to dissipate the heat away from the cylinders and the head.

[@190SkyTeam]

I was saying the exact same thing need cooling fans just like air cooled engines

[@Eduardo_Espinoza]

How was the bowler fan connected?

[@emanh4keem_san420]

​@@190SkyTeam tell them to fab fins around the engine

[@patrickbrady447]

Yes when I heard what they were doing I thought they would cut the block to the cylindres and add fins and to the head too and the add fins and close it all off the add a big fan at the front. Like a Deuts.

[@gabrielv.4358]

or insert a LOT AND I MEAn a LOT of coolef fans on that engine

[@jacobrzeszewski6527]

This actually worked way better than I was expecting. I was expecting Chernobyl with pistons melting into the elephant's foot within minutes of starting the engine.

[@RBMK1500]

you better press AZ-5 before that happens!

[@SUBZEROinfinity]

Use A small turbo and route the outlet to the motor. Even small turbo's have more air pressure then stock fan's. This should cool the motor to satisfaction. Also make the holes In the head A bit bigger. Awesome video.

[@1NIGHTMAREGAMER]

idea put a amr300-500 connected to a regular water radiator it blows through the rad then out into a inter-cooler then into engine comes out the other side of the engine water hole and back into the amr300-500 or any super charger i wonder if that would be enough air flow to keep it cool i just dont think that tiny fan was fast enough i think this would provide better cooling cause turbo requires the engine to be spinning past idle a roots supercharger moves are no matter what

[@shaggy92279]

I’d also imagine combing the things people mentioned before, but also maybe a better fan? A blower motor probably isn’t putting out enough air? Great channel by the way! It’s too bad we can’t visit so easily. Common people don’t have problems being friends. It’s just our damn governments!

[@xaominheotar616]

This video is the exact reason to wait and watch the whole your channel

[@volvo09]

That lasted a LOT longer than I imagined. I say add a large oil cooler and try it again.

[@1234567890CAB]

Definitely surface area, perhaps loosely stuffing the coolant passages with coarse copper wool/brillo/scouring pads. But I was also thinking what if you used a turbo instead of an electric blower motor. Hook up the hot side like normal with the exhaust, but then the compressed air from the other side is directed into the coolant passages instead. That way when the engine is under more load, there is more air being forced through the engine.

[@soldierbk2268]

You have to strip the engine off the channels so expose outer cylinder sides and weld some kind of radiator fins onto them

[@peterduxbury927]

Use the Radiator that you took out of the car, and reconnect this to contain lots and lots of Oil. Put a Temp Sensor into the top of the Radiator. Keep the Radiator Fan turning with the engine. Then utilise the water pump to circulate the oil, but not through the water Coolant Galleries. Q=mct. You will then increase the MASS of the oil - which will be cooled through the Huge Radiator itself. A simple Blower across the cylinder head (from the back of the engine to the front), should suffice to keep the rear cylinders cool, next to the Fire Wall, as these would normally be the first to heat-up without any water or coolant.You could also remove the Sump Filter Screen - for improved Oil Flow, and also remove the Oil Filter Element too! I am certain that the car would run much longer than it did.... Greetings from Australia.

[@davewolf8869]

Garage 54, asking the REAL questions

[@19jacobob93]

I would have added MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide/Liqui Moly anti-friction) as well. It was an old trick to add to VW air cooled units in warmer climates, so that there was still an anti-friction barrier when the oil got too hot and started to break down. It's great at lowering temps to begin with since it reduces friction so much, and I add it to all my engines anyway, both modern and old, and all water cooled.

[@zsombor_99]

Install a small "intercooler" for the oil to where the normal radiator used to be! 😉

[@danbergthold3481]

You guys always have have the best ideas. This idea in particular is sheer genius. In tropical Siberia where you really have no use for a heater in your car or in your homes for that matter, air-cooling makes perfect sense. With only 8 or 9 months of very mild winters, a heater is just one more superfluous system that is destined to fail, leading to downtime and needless expense. Why have it? Maybe you guys could glue some plastic fins on the engine so it LOOKS like it's air-cooled. Then install some big air scoops on both fenders - kinda like the back of a Zaporozhets. These simple mods should make all the difference! By the way, that test car is absolutely gorgeous!

[@desnick2316]

Put a fan that is powered by the crank for more flow, maybe to both sides of the engine. Add more holes for better ventilation, add an oil cooler.

[@sidgreentherhymeofreason]

That could work to cool it. Adding cooling fins could also work.

[@desnick2316]

@@sidgreentherhymeofreason Yes, definitely. But it would be hard to add cooling fins on the engine since there is a cavity for the coolant around the cylinders.

[@sidgreentherhymeofreason]

@@desnick2316 You're right about that

[@anmeramz88]

Maybe you could try installing a second fan with an oil radiator, kind of like VW aircooled engines

[@willierule3744]

If you had an external oil cooler and you added that to a nice size one and then put a fan on it and it continued to use air to keep it cool I think you guys would do much better. Very good show thank you.

[@brotang2953]

Maybe use a turbocharger as a blower? Rear mount it and run long alloy tubing back up to the front to an intercooler then into the block via a manifold that directs air to each cylinder.

[@MadScientist267]

Air isn't efficient enough to do without additional surface area for it to interact with. This is what the fins on an air cooled engine are about. Order of magnitude more surface area (at least!)

[@brotang2953]

@@MadScientist267 volume of air makes a difference, if you have have a thousand cubic foot of air blasting past a cylinder a minute your still going to get more cooling than 100 cubic foot a min🤷🏻‍♂️. Everyone knows what works, it's about trying the unknown and seeing how effective it is😉.

[@brotang2953]

@@MadScientist267 the cylinders actually don't need that much cooling, it's the head that takes on most of the heat as well.

[@MadScientist267]

@@brotang2953 You can't squeeze enough air by it without the fins present to make it work. I like this channel but some of the ideas are derpy. There was nothing anyone was going to do to that engine that was going to make it survive this experiment. I knew that ahead of time, and as such have never (and wouldn't) bothered trying this "conversion". When common sense clearly indicates something, there's no point in going thru the motions unless you're just showing how wrong it will go. Even Vlad there knew the deal, but because KZbin creators have to sell out to stay relevant, this shit pops up. Not all the ideas are bad (the engine braking valve was an intriguing idea)... But this? This is just "yet another way to blow a 4 banger"... Not very "great" on any level 🤷‍♂️

[@brotang2953]

@@MadScientist267 I think it's a bit less serious than all that, they essentially try out ideas people come up with and see how effective they are or aren't. Experimenting for the sake of experimenting basically. As a welder I know what your saying but I kinda disagree to some extent. You can actually greatly cool down hot metal with nothing but air😅, example being if I weld a piece of metal and and then leave it in open air it could be several minutes before it's cool enough to pickup, if I hit it directly with the air gun it cuts that time down quite considerably, of course to almost instantly cool it ya throw it in a bucket of water lol but if you feed enough air past a flat piece of steel it does actually take quite a bit of heat out. I agree my idea will overheat as well but I think you'd get at least a few times the runtime before it did. If you water cooled just the head and blast cooled the cylinders it might be enough to keep it running for quite a decent time.

[@TH-1207]

You guys really pull off some crazy stuff. It's fun to watch.

[@meeeoooow]

Love this channel.😀 It always looks miserably cold there, though!🥶

[@jonathanryan2915]

Don't worry, they do have summer too

[@hughjass1835]

Summer is one week in August

[@atlasgunther8947]

water transfers temp and cools immediately, whilst air cooling is just the surface cooling but not transferring the cooler mass of the air behind the surface warming up and thus very weak cooling affect

[@lordmawjr]

cut as much of the outer motor case away as you can and copper clad the walls then use a spot rod welder (like ones used to weld rods on to body panels to pull out dents ) to weld 12 gauge copper rods about 3 to 4 inches long onto the copper clad walls. then use multiple electric blowers to blast the whole engine surface with airflow .

[@m4d_mark_xtr3me79]

2 things air cooled engines have that this currently does not... 1. Cooling fins to cool down the block and cylinder head. (Big heat sinks) 2. Oil cooler to keep the engine temps down and possibly even a dry sump system to stop the heat build up.

[@teardowndan5364]

Fill the coolant passages with liquid tin, machine the engine as flat as oil passages and accessories attachments will allow, then bolt on a bunch of CPU coolers. Engines waste about 30% of their combustion heat through the cooling system, which means you'd need about 20kW of cooling capacity which is somewhere between 100 and 200 PC heatsinks depending on the model. Doubt you can fit 100 under the hood though. Also, PC heat pipes are designed to operate at 30-70C on the cold side, probably won't work too well with a combustion engine designed to run at about 100C.

[@Rrgr5]

Nice, what will be the next one? Boxer/flat Lada engines? Probably would be a difficult task, but... Considering what you guys do...

[@thedarkknight1971]

THAT'S a GOOD idea! They've lined 2, 3 and 4 full motors up together (making, effectively an inline 8, 12 and 16), so, a Lada boxer '8' could be a cool thing to try. Hahaha put it against a 'Scooby' flat 4/6 🤔😉🤣🤣👍 😎🇬🇧

[@thedarkknight1971]

Maybe next version... Carving off ALL the outer 'Water Jacket' housing, and welding on cooling fins (the radiator fan is already in place ready for it) and also adding a mid sized 'Oil cooler' radiator (kinda like an older motorbike engine design)... 🤔😏😉👍 😎🇬🇧

[@anatolklops]

The biggest thing here is that there isn't enough surface area for the engine to dissipate heat. So what if the engine has a large air flow as the cylinders are cooled by their smooth surface. This is why air-cooled motors are finned. It will be hard to do without a new engine casting specially made for this purpose. Certainly, an oil cooler and an increased capacity of the oil pan (not the oil level, more oil with the same level in relation to the engine shaft) would help a lot here, and you could make an additional pump that would pump cold oil and pour it in the head in large quantities so that it spills in it and flows back into the bowl. All this, however, without the correct ribbing of the cylinders will probably only prolong the agony of the engine, instead of allowing it to work theoretically indefinitely.

[@volkswagenation]

Fins...lots and lots of fins like an air-cooled motorcycle engine. I had a Honda CB 750 inline 4 DOHC that was air-cooled. It was basically a small car engine. The bulk of engine size was due to the cooling fins. It sure radiated off the heat. I could warm my hands while riding on a cold day but it wasn't happy to not to sit still and idle. Another idea for the air-cooled idea is to pull air through the water cooling system from one end with a turbo intercooler on the intake side using the in and out from where the radiator would connect. This would allow air to be slightly cooled by the intercooler before being drawn around the water jacket then ejecting the heated air from the engine.

[@Remingtonrestoration]

to get more air, take the turbo from a semi, install it on the exhaust & take the air from the intake side & run it into the engine after it goes thru the inter cooler

[@tangowhiskeytrailertranspo6662]

I think you should not have drilled any holes in the block. The fan was merely blowing the air out of the holes nearest it. You should have just removed the thermostat, the radiator and lower radiator hose, then connected a shop-vac to the thermostat housing to draw air through the water passageways. I believe this would have provided the most air circulation and cooling.

[@ILOVEBACONBOY2018]

Absolutley love this channel.

[@gabrielv.4358]

Really, I am ALWAYS amazed at what you guys create, lol!

[@seldomseen7835]

A turbocharger feeding into the radiator hose fitting as well as a forced induction funnel doing the same. My first thought was do the drill holes area equal the induction area so more holes. Either aerodynamic suction or an exhaust gas ejector suction. Ho and also an oil cooler but you must have thought of that. Wobbels the mad Aussie

[@digitalchaos1980]

This is gonna be awesome! 😎

[@Gres-iu2iw]

it goes without saying but garage 54 is awesome and BMI Russian is a legend for his contribution as well

[@emersonpierotti9547]

Creio que faltaram no projeto um radiador de óleo com ventilação forçada, um outro ventilador entrando na parte dianteira do bloco, uma segunda junta para reduzir a taxa de compressão e aumentar um os gaps dos aneis dos pistões. Adoro seus experimentos, vocês desafiam a engenharia. Então de parabéns.

[@PhaQ2]

Aside from running an oil cooler, try adding some aluminum fins. Maybe some old computer CPU coolers bonded to the head and block?

[@V8Power5300]

Make an oil cooled engine. Just have oil in the cooling system and see what happens. Maybe try it with a blown head gasket that puts water in the oil

[@boshaznip]

Need more surface area on the block to dissipate the heat. All air cooled motors are covered in fins to increase the surface area, same with radiators how they have lots of small folded fins, all about maximising the surface area. Air has a much worse heat capacity than water, which is why you need a much bigger area to carry enough heat away. I suggest adding a small radiator for the oil, such as a transmission cooler etc, and then cut away the outer water jacket on the block, keeping enough to maintain structural integrity. Then weld in lots of thin horizontal plates as cooling fins, as many as you can fit, and make sure they touch the inner cylinder housings within the block as this is where the heat is generated.

[@paulog8813]

Would like to see the same experiment but with the addition of an oil radiator for cooling the oil.

[@ZacharyKelley-k2e]

I have a few ideas you guys propably already thought about.😂😂😂 Maybe you guys can carefully mill away the outer cooling jacket of the engine block, weld strips of iron or aluminum on to the engine block and cylinder head with a small gap between each strip. (depending on what type of material the engine block and cylinder head is made of) This will increase the surface area of the cylinder head and cylinders; therefore, promote overall cooling efficiency. In addition, if you look at motorcycles, chainsaws, post- war VW Beatle, etc, most of these machines utilize air handling ducts that channel air through the cooling fins with the use of a mechanical fan. As for oil cooling, looking back on the VW Beatle they utilized an oil cooler to wick away heat. In that case, cannibalize a large oil cooler from a heavy-duty pickup truck or semi tractor (or whatever you can get you hands on) and retrofit the cooler to the oil system. This will increase your oil capacity and further promoter engine cooling. Keep in mind that I'm not an automotive engineer nor a engine disigner, these are just some ideas. I hope you guys find them helpfull. I'm sure you'll figure something out. I can't wait for a new video to come out about this topic. Keep up the good work. God bless you and your team.

[@coastalcleaningandmaintena2884]

Hey that just shows how tough those dam ol ladas were. In Canada i got one when i was 13 and thought id break it in 15 mins and im fairly certain the car still running somewhere in Canada that was 1992

[@Petrolhead99999]

What about a turbo with the compressor side routed into the water jackets? Provides more cooling proportional to engine load, much more volume than a blower fan, and high enough static pressure to overcome restrictions and flow through all the passages.

[@conorkar2492]

i suggest to cut the outer wall of the block with a grinder so that air comes straight to the metal that contacts oil. maybe then you can weld cooling wings to the block and cylinder head and add a big belt driven fan in front of the engine(electric fans are good enough to cool down a radiator with low effort because of aluminium heat properties and the coolant flow But a metal wall with holes...i think not) maybe you can check out some deutz aircooled tractors to get an idea!!

[@carlfrizell2849]

I think that if you pipe the intake of the carburettor to the top of the engine where the thermostat is but take out the thermostat that would get the air moving through the cooling part of the engine, it would do away with needing an electric fan aswell, also you need a big oil cooler.

[@alex_stanley]

You need a LOT more oil and a radiator to cool it off. The 1982 Porsche 911SC I owned in the late '80s had a 12 quart oil capacity.

[@adamgray2070]

I think more air flow will help keep it cooler longer. Maybe even another fan (bigger fan) on top, or on other side of engine. Probably just more fans.

[@ninjajunpei1984]

Add an oil cooler to the oiling system to aid the keeping the temperatures down and add a stronger blower to the side of the block. Then,make the holes that were drilled into the cylinder head larger. That should keep the temperatures down.

[@MrAmrmnabil]

Install an oil inter-cooler, and attach the largest fan u can find to it.

[@ericcaves7530]

I'm just wondering: would a draw-through, engine driven setup and small windows cut into the cylinder head be more effective?

[@tonydiesel3444]

Y'all need to get a team together of the best engine builders in the area and build a diesel engine specifically designed to run off waste oil permanently for long long periods of time with no issues and no damage to the engine this will help a lot of people

[@davekauffman8727]

As some others have said here, you need to strip away the entire outside cooling jacket from around the cylinders, and weld cooling fins to the cylinders and cylinder head. There are engines that are cooled by air, usually not inline 4 though.

[@AlienLivesMatter]

Please do this testing again in the summer. That FrankenLada is epic. Maybe use an industrial blower centrifugal air pump

[@GiveAcademy]

Stuff the water jackets with coarse steel or copper wool., to increase cooling surface area. Then blow high pressure air through it.

[@donamulka1407]

I would say to fill the block with cast aluminum where the water goes, although I think that would work well in an aluminum block and not so much in a cast iron one

[@markchapman2585]

Great video guys. Keep up the great content

[@russbilzing5348]

You would need an aluminum head and steel sleeved block if you were going to effect a better heat transfer. Henry Ford used a finned copper alloy head for his attempt to make the Model T into an air cooled engine.

[@Krashnikov]

garage 54's ultimate creation will be an air cooled diesel powered 4WD lada xD

[@DaCheapChimp]

Increase surface area like adding fins or larger Chambers and blowers fans. But ideally you need air going across the engine while running. You really can't idle for too long without the proper airflow. Go on a trip and take a trailer if the engine blows. 👍👍

[@MHLivestreams]

Weld fins on the cylinder head, and turn the radiator fan blade the opposite way to force cool air in, and add an oil cooler.

[@remskolney4040]

Put the radiator back in only connect it to an electric oil pump, plus one giant turbo from a truck instead of that tiny electric fan to force air into the block.

[@jackradzelovage6961]

make a shroud for the stock cooling fan to direct it into the block. that way cooling will be bigger across the board, AND it will be rpm dependent

[@rocknraptor3195]

Need to add a oil cooler!👍 Blower fan was a good idea .

[@StinaCole]

More surface area, like the fins on a radiator or a heatsink, would help the engine exchange more heat with the incoming air.

[@frankiehensley2928]

Now since you have holes in the engine how about testing to see if JB weld will seal up the holes in the head and patch the engine block with it.

[@EvilMrFoo]

checkout any air-cooled motorcycle engine.... those fins/ridges are there for a reason. more surface area to disperse the heat

[@hughjass1835]

You need fins around the cylinders, a shroud around the whole thing,a fan that moves 3 times as much air and an oil cooler

[@nathansmith3608]

I wonder if loosely wadded copper wire stuffed in the passages would add enough surface area & heat transfer capability to help?

[@pauljcampbell2997]

That's a cool idea!

[@pockets5921]

The exit vents for the hot air or right over the top of the intake of the air fan cooling it if the event was away from the air intake there might be a better also I agree with the comment that that a good oil cooler line would be helpful

[@ronniemaeker9102]

Could you tear the engine down and inspect...? When it got that hot, was it vapor locking...? Oil squirters on the pistons...

[@salmansiddiq4521]

Adding an oil cooler and a leaf blower for cooling the block should help it by a large extent.

[@Nightelfmusic]

You needed a front air ram intake for the cooling and air cooled engines are known for over heating when going slow and need to be driven above 30 mph ...ish to stay cool. That why old cars and air cooled motorcycles break down in traffic.

[@grandpaseed]

yea i'm on the oil cooling group put a 10 lt. alum. tank on the roof an put the rad back in filled with oil routed through an oil bypass filter thingy. slice the water jacket into fins

[@shrapnut7612]

MORE FAN! Great viddy, thank you, sir's.

[@mtn.lion_bait]

Dry sump oil system with more oil and a big cooler maybe?

[@lucasmonks5767]

Use turbo direted to engine block in place of the little electric fan. and the radiator as a big oil cooler

[@REDLINERUNNER]

Old "Air cooled" tractors used to have a big turbine fan and big oil cooler.

[@gageburns2263]

You guys should add some cooling fins on both sides of the head for better cooling too like an old motor bike. Surely it would be a big help rather than just the bare head with holes drilled in it. But still wicked video ✌️

[@Phos9]

I suspect the oil vaporizing out of the crank case ventilator was providing most of the cooling. Speaking of crank case ventilation, what if you bulked up the bottom end of an engine to where it was a pressure vessel and sealed the ventilator?

[@3dartstudio007]

A beetle belt drive squirrel cage fan perhaps? The "crazy" idea I can think of would be using a whole bunch of heat sink putty like they use on computer CPU's to get the heat from the inside the block to aluminum cooling fins on the outside of the block. Or pour the whole block full of heat sink compound so the inside cylinder walls can transfer heat to the outside of the engine block?

[@slowcarshop]

more lada science!

[@72polara]

A Lada is a tough little car! I would love to see the engine taken down and see the damage.

[@1NIGHTMAREGAMER]

idea put a amr300-500 connected to a regular water radiator it blows through the rad then out into a inter-cooler then into engine comes out the other side of the engine water hole and back into the amr300-500 or any super charger i wonder if that would be enough air flow to keep it cool i just dont think that tiny fan was fast enough

[@TwilightVaramek]

i think what your missing is fins on the head all air cooled engines the entirew head is full of heat fins as it acts as a heat sink and is also cooled by a fan or the flyweel on lawnmowers and such they push air over the fins to better move heat away so there basicly was not enough surface area for the heat to dissapate

[@errantry4]

Welding many large but thin fins to the block and head will probably really help.

[@TheRattyBiker]

Nah.... Lots of people saying air cooled is basically oil cooled - whilst air cooled "now" means that.... It more often traditionally referred to a whopping great set of fins around the cylinder, great air flow and no seperate oil radiators.... There are plenty of classic examples that prove that... It didn't work out too great in higher compression 2 stroke and / or 4 stroke engines hence the advancement to air cooled oil radiators.... Which actually work amazingly quite well - lots of high compression high performance 4 cylinder 4 stroke motorcycles have just a huge oil radiator and small fins for cooling.....

[@coachgeo]

guessing the oil began to vaporize... and if it by the rings ... being sucked upward on up stroke... then that would mix with fuel vapor in the cylinder and drop the octane level way down.... thus bad combustion when spark plug goes off??

[@jameshedrick605]

Try putting another fan in to see of that would help

[@osbberjen]

A intake for the fan witch draws cold air and not the hot air from the engine bay would be better. add an oilcooler to would help a lot.

[@gpowerdragon9852]

hi vlad u miss 1 critical aspect of the engine air cooling system on a '70s deutz tractor engine you also see a oil cooler inside in the air path if you open cool air box up you see an oil cooler

[@White_Fang2102]

Thank you for research , it's the Best Research

[@soupflood]

In keeping with not adding more oil or an oil heat exchanger...Add more fans... And more, bigger, holes.

[@Billhatestheinternet]

This is the reason Harley Davidson started using oil coolers on their larger air cooled bikes, and have dabbled with liquid cooled heads on their traditional engines. Harleys with modern overhead cam engines are all liquid cooled. Air cooled engines are more likely to work on a motorcycle or lawn equipment due to not being in an engine compartment that turns into an oven from engine heat, but even that is starting to prove problematic with increasingly powerful engines (and US and European emission regulations).

[@chemsoldier83]

That old soviet motor is definitely more durable than anything made today.

[@thomasridgdill2165]

As well as the oil cooler people are talking about what if the fan ran according to the rpm of the engine so it was cooling more when under load instead of a constant flow from idle on up?

[@jusb1066]

you can burn diesel as fuel in a petrol engine if, you heat it up and use the air inlet to pull the air through the hot diesel, using the hot manifold to continue the process .

[@nathansmith3608]

That's a good idea! Might need to throw a little methanol in there to prevent knock & improve cooling, then it could probably run air cooled for hours on "alternative fuels"

[@jusb1066]

@@nathansmith3608 retard the timing a little, we used to run petrol engines on paraffin, by first warming them up and then swtiching over, had to retard ignition , lost a little power but it was dirt cheap

[@DanShh]

fins and stripping of the cooling case and maybe a few highspeed fans, think you will have a problem with heat because of there are 4 pistons as apposed to moped engines

[@fesaopilger]

One suggestion is replace the cooler used in this video for a turbocharger for exemple to force more air inside the engine and try to have a better air refrigeration.