We Turbocharged our Harbor Freight 670cc Dragster

[@CarsandCameras]

This install was shockingly simple! Now we just need our methanol and a few supporting mods and we'll be off to the dyno for a tune!

[@spyder7758]

I just posted about how a tiny nitrous shot before the impeller can cool down and spool up, should try it. And I dig all your builds

[@ghostgaming-78-l5l]

I remember when it was on the mower that was something I wanted to do

[@jeffreylyons1531]

@@spyder7758 I use nitrous shot (18hp jet) into the compressor to spool my Miata, works really good, drops the intake air temps as bunch too.

[@HeresJonny-bi6uv]

you should put a lot bigger turbo on that

[@jimmyhughes5392]

set the turbo up in pull through config and then to compensate for the extra lag... add NOS injection after the turbo

[@WorldRoger]

Love the mods, I would recommend adding support braces from the block/heads to the turbo and carb assy as all the vibration will prob crack welds and or break the housings of various components

[@worldrage619]

I’d also invest in a air to fuel ratio gauge (afr) it is Extremely important with a turbo set up

[@rad8078]

Yes this should be too comment, afr gauges are not only for efi tuning

[@khrprod]

There is no point for afr gauge because it sucks the needed fuel still from the carb and it dont go lean if carb is tuned correctly

[@TDG2654]

@@khrprod 🤦‍♂️ the afr gauge would be TO MAKE SURE that the carb is tuned correctly

[@fernandop937]

@@khrprod afr is a tuning tool used to see how rich or lean it’s running tho

[@kasuraga]

@@khrprod you can still run a carb setup too lean or rich. An AFR gauge is literally for monitoring the ratio so you can see in real time how well tuned the carb is.

[@johnathantaylor2059]

Dude I love the fact that you guys put so much content into each episode, keep it up you guys are the dream team!

[@peacepoet36]

You guys and your projects keep getting awesome and amazing every day, and this video did it a hundred-fold! John, Ike, Charles, keep it up! The Harbor Freight 670 Dragster is one of my favorite projects, and it's gotten more awesome with the turbo. Can't wait to see it go down the track!

[@VroomNBoom]

completely agree

[@---fk1ct]

Try a larger intake plenum so the engine draws from a larger pool. idle might get better as the cost of slightly longer time to build boost. Though it might be steadier once pressurized.

[@murmaider2]

Definitely needs more manifold volume

[@dylanzrim3635]

They can build a boost capacitor, in a sense it’s like a 2 strokes expansion exhaust but on the intake. Basically it buffers the lag out some by banking some pressure up

[@kshepthedrummer]

@@dylanzrim3635 Yup, single/twin cylinder engine's exhaust pulse is a lot rougher than something with more cylinders. Your only getting 1 or 2 pulses per engine revolution rather than 4 or 8 like a car engine. It leads to the turbo kind of pulsing, which is why their boost gauge was jumping around so much. A "boost capacitor" will help even out the pulsation

[@OdysseyLife1]

Now, this episode feels like old school C&C!! The rail is one of my faves! You guys rock!😎✌️🤙💪☺️

[@mikedrop4421]

It's just like the old days except they are now using plasma tables in a huge new shop instead of their parents kitchen tables and borrowed garages lol

[@elesjuan]

@@mikedrop4421 I can't hate on what John and crew have built, but man, I do miss a little of the charm of the O.G. Rat Rod Wagon, the turbo drift trike, and the offroading through the neighborhood culvert. Those were the days!

[@seantheberge5456]

Yeah, I love this one too!

[@douglucas3551]

@@mikedrop4421 !0%__#%%)_1

[@14ccs]

the "exhaust pressure relief dump" is called a wastegate and u should be able to get different springs for it instead of pinching the line, some people also add t's into the wastegate reference line which is a little better then pinching it off, u just vent the t to atmosphere and it will give u a few more lbs of boost

[@magicstew45]

Or weld the waste gate shut. 😂 Naw they might have to buy a new waste gate actuator and fab it on there to get the right spring pressure, ebay turbos are hit and miss with aftermarket parts

[@gaboonviper85]

Can't change springs in those....but you can undo the bracket and put washers under it essentially shimming it making the spring stiffer.

[@Mrshotshell]

@@gaboonviper85 Or use an manual boost controller. Aka a controlled boost leak in the wastegate line

[@ihatejoze]

A manual boost controller would be best, so they could bleed the boost pressure so the wastegate will stay closed longer

[@gaboonviper85]

@@Mrshotshell that would be ideal for sure.

[@Halfstep2024]

I love how they are always so safety conscious to say “cover” when welding. But in this one when he said it and the other two just kept right on working looking right towards it I laughed my ass off. Y’all are the living embodiment of car guys 😂

[@Halfstep2024]

My bad, one did pull his cap down briefly before looking directly back towards it which honestly just makes it better lol

[@JohnSmith-yn8pl]

Keep up the good experimental work. Love it ….3

[@neoxela00]

Hey guys, have a bit of experience here and may be able to help, happy to chat further. For your oil return, spooly bois love little to no resistance for the drain line. Just make sure that vent hose is nice and clear or consider tapping a fitting into the block somewhere. Pinching the line to the wastegate can get you in a nasty overboost scenario under load. Turbo can blow up quickly as can your engine. A cheap solution for your wastegate issue would be a bleed “t”, any half decent 90 degree valve will do - I’ve even seen plumbing or gas fittings used in the past! Next up you’ll need to be aware of your afr under load considering the right ratios for your chosen fuel. Running very rich might be the best option here, keep your temps down. Finally you might want to gap down your plugs a bit. Very very cool to see you guys stepping into and learning about the turbo word. Never clicked like on a video so fast!! Cannot wait to see it rip!

[@RejectedOutcast]

this comment needs to be put at the top asap. i was the same with clicking asap when i seen the turbo haha

[@neoxela00]

@@RejectedOutcast I hope they see it, would be a shame to see the project grind to a halt.

[@RejectedOutcast]

@@neoxela00 the builds of late have been a touch boring but i really want this to work for them so fingers crossed for our sake and theirs they see this comment and this can get them back again. ive been stuck on grind hard plumbing atm

[@jimbagle.3939]

Use hard pipe for the intake. Replace that rubber with aluminum or try flexible pvc. They use it for pools and water fountains. It's expensive but easier than welding aluminum.

[@Mrshotshell]

Pvc doesn't hold up to fuel or heat at all. Silicone handles the heat but not fuel or vacuum. A wire reinforced fuel filler hose would be the best easy option

[@jimbagle.3939]

@@Mrshotshell fair. I should have thought about the fuel, as that is what makes PVC glue work. The flexible would be better than regular PVC. But since this is a pull-through setup. You are right.

[@dylanzrim3635]

@@jimbagle.3939 I was about to say “ew” at the pull through, but finding a boost ready small engine fuel metering system to blow through isn’t going to be easy

[@garymorel1882]

Or use sch80 pvc you can shape it anyway you want with a hand torch

[@Ericdejong69]

I agree just a piece of aluminum pipe with 2 couplers at each end would work great

[@Tilted-Garage]

Draw through setups can work, especially on small engines. the lever that you see on the turbo is your waste gate actuator rod. smart cars probably only run a couple pounds of boost so the waste gate opens early, due to a 4-5 psi spring in the waste gate actuator. That or the engine exhaust is just using brute force and pushing open the waste gate due to the lake or waste gate spring pressure, use a manual boost controller in line with the waste gate hose and you’ll be able to control it. If the waste gate keeps opening early then you might need to look into an external waste gate or another turbo with a higher psi spring in the waste gate actuator. The small amount of smoke is being caused by the vacuum in the compressor housing, the vacuum is pulling the oil past the seals because the seals were designed to seal under pressure, not vacuum, to solve this you’ll need to find a way to install carbon seals into the current turbo, or find a turbo that you can install carbon seals into. Like ikr said the hose is collapsing because it’s under vacuum, a spring in the hose can work, or you’ll have to switch to a solid pipe. Address those things, turn up the boost, tune the carb and it’ll run great. Like I said a draw through setup can work good!

[@JoseFlores-kq6es]

There is no spring in internal waste gates.only on externals

[@HighlanderNorth1]

❓🤔 I'm no expert when it comes to turbocharging(unless I lie about it. Lol). But your list of ideas sounds logical to me. The only one I have a concern with is the concept of a "manual wastegate lever". I've never driven a micro-dragster, but I wonder if a driver would have the ability to effectively activate a manual wastegate lever in a timely and consistent fashion, while in the heat of a race? If there was any significant inconsistency in a driver's ability to activate the wastegate at just the right boost levels, I'd assume that may have a negative effect if the driver was bracket racing, where e.t. consistency is paramount. (❓)

[@Tilted-Garage]

@@HighlanderNorth1 I’m sorry I didn’t mean to describe a manual boost controller like it was a driver operated lever that opens and closes a waste gate, it’s much more simple than that. A manual boost controller is basically just an air bleed valve or restricter, it connects in line with the pressurized intake and the waste gate actuator. Basically just let’s less pressurized air to make it to the waste gate actuator so the actuator opens at a higher overall boost pressure. It’s called a manual controller cause it’s adjusted manually via a screw or knob on the controller, vs a traditional boost controller that is usually controlled by an ecu or in some extreme circumstances can be used in conjunction with co2. A manual controller is just more simple and makes more sense to use in this application

[@HighlanderNorth1]

@@Tilted-Garage Ok, thanks. It didn't seem logical otherwise. It would be kinda weird for a driver to have to manually work a lever to release excess boost pressure. He'd have to drive the car while watching a boost gauge to detect excess boost pressure. If there was no boost gauge, then it would be even weirder.... He'd have to "manually estimate" excess boost pressure in order to determine when to pull the manual wastegate lever! The setup I described would be a real head-scratcher for other engine builders and racers at the local track! But the thing you just described makes more sense.

[@mac4427]

Even though it's a small engine/turbo don't forget the proper sized restrictor for the oil feed into the turbo. Will blow the seals out of the little guy in no time.

[@junkyardboost8372]

Journal bearing turbos should not have a restrictor. You can’t “blow the seals” out of a turbo as the seals are actually steel and similar to a piston ring. If oil is being pushed past the seals either the bearings are shot, drain is too restrictive or from excessive crank case pressures due to poor crankcase venting.

[@turbogodstoys]

Very very important to restrict. Bleed to much off the engine wont get enough flow.. i know a guy that didnt have restrictor and kept burning out cam bearing from lack of flow

[@dylanzrim3635]

@@junkyardboost8372 you can push oil past the seal with too much pressure, that creates a lean mix in the intake creating a possible overrun, or goes out the exhaust side where it can ignite and overrun the engine/turbo. Either scenario leads to things getting hot, running out of oil, and failing.

[@dorhocyn3]

Looks like everybody’s a little bit right, I think the feeding line restriction helps keep your engine alive, but the biggest problem is people hear of restricted oil flow typically is the drain back getting coked up

[@timhbergstrom499]

@@junkyardboost8372 q Please

[@Cooldad87]

I just wanna say thank you for listening to your audience I personally have been waiting for you guys to go full send with the drag rail

[@spyder7758]

Vote for Turbo! And a tiny nitrous shot just before the impeller can have stunning results! Cools down, spools up! Try it!

[@thehemiolds455]

👍🤙

[@UENVEYME2]

100% Correct

[@davidsnyder2000]

Do it!!! Yee-haw😲

[@olekaarvaag9405]

I feel like they should do a couple more forced induction builds and get it nailed down before going to nitrous. That said, I would definitely not be sad if they jumped right to nitrous!

[@EdWolfram]

Must be a Mullet fan.

[@devivoman]

Well poop guys, I've been begging you guys for a while now to take the supermower around the grand prix while not even realizing that it was the same engine as the drag rail! New idea suggestion: get a used rider, swap pulleys, get a lap time, then spice up the engine, steering/suspension, etc and get competing lap times!

[@nickolasrobbers8170]

You guys never disappoint me . This is so awesome

[@gsxter2]

A Turbo Is Never A Blind Spot!!!! This needs to be a C&C shirt.

[@diciple909]

Love the content! Hoping my health situation improves because I have 7 various engines ranging from 1.5 to 10 hP to clean up and build and 2 minibike frames to put them on. Ones a doodle bug from the 80's the other I'm not sure but it's bigger. My daughter is always bugging me about working on them. Man... I can't wait to teach her.

[@iacopotuttino5515]

In my opinion i think that it's better if you put the carb after the turbo, so you have a better nebulozation on the gas, but it eorks well also like this!! Great men!

[@MrAlexiasjones]

A micro squirt efi would set it off. To have timing tables, and control of afr should be able to push it into triple digits safely.

[@swandonovan]

Yep. I've suggested they go standalone on every one of their turbo builds. Really not much more in cost to do it right

[@jafferm1938]

@@swandonovan they did with the turbo drift trike years ago

[@TBsGarage]

it was quite comedic hearing yall work your way through figuring out what a wastegate does, it dumps exhaust past the turbo to regulate the boost pressure.

[@mrmason4901]

Your videos never disappoint!

[@reneescouch9035]

Man there are car channels out there with a couple hundred thousand subscribers and they build awesome stuff with legit parts and here you guys are with a million subs and y'all are cheaping out on a harbor freight engine.... You guys should step your game up. Your channel would grow so much faster. I really hope y'all do.

[@darrellkelly7614]

I believe Ike was wearing his " IM GONNA GO REALLY FAST" face. And Mr C really shined in this episode.. John also wore a "oh oh" face

[@thestormyc268]

I love the fact that you huys turbocharged the rail but I gonna miss that custom header because it sounded AMAZING

[@Beardest_Fishing]

A carb creates latent heat evaporation and acts as a "intercooler" and drastically reduces intake air temps. None of the guys who use "blow through" boost with a carb use intercoolers so you'll be good there. Your carb on the draw through will be more of a restriction vs a blow through but as you said, you don't need anything to up the fuel pressure like you do with a blow through. If your clutch has enough "slip" to get the RPM's up you should be OK but it will be more laggy than a blow through. You will need to rejet the carb in any of the variants or it's going to run really lean.

[@Eduardo_Espinoza]

Can't they just, nvm bad idea lol

[@bombassbeefjerky9708]

That dragster deserves a snow mobile motor ... especially now that y’all know the power it makes

[@Sithhy]

For the intake tube being squished on idle, wouldn't it be the right idea to have the carburetor sit in place of that tube, like what Robot Cantina experienced in one of his Street Legal Gokart build episodes? He had the same issue happening, but with throttle bodies

[@hacxer8424]

He was using efi ....

[@jimbagle.3939]

It is the same issue except that car is fuel injected. That will not work here. Also, Jimbo goes on long rides. This thing only runs a few minutes at a time.

[@Tacosgalore24]

Ah, shit I came here to say this 😂

[@thefunniestfarm4731]

@@jimbagle.3939 It can work with the carb after the turbo, but then the carb needs to be sealed. Think the overflow needs to be plugged and fuel system pressurized.

[@marzsit9833]

@@thefunniestfarm4731 another way to do it is to build a sealed enclosure around the carb so the float bowl vent also sees boost pressure, this was done years ago on turbo kits made by gale banks engineering before fuel injection became economically feasable.

[@Reaper1008]

That things is wild. This is my favorite build you guys have done.. I remember when you guys first built it.

[@amos9731]

"A turbo is never a blind spot!" Should be your next t-shirt.

[@jamesmcgee9279]

Go get'em fellas! I can't wait to see what y'all lay down at the drag strip. Thanks for sharing guys!

[@julian9579]

You could use the mailbox as a plenum if its airtight under boost 😂, you need a plenum that has more cc than the engine to get good results anyways, otherwise you get invisible (on gauge) boost drops after the intake valve opens since there is not much volume of compressed air between the turbo and engine so the boost drops as the volume of air gets pushed into the cylinder so you might end up with about half the boost the gauge shows in your cylinder on lower rpm you would even be able to see the boost gauge needle vibrating but it gest less visible on higher rpm, but you guys probably know that and the mailbox could stay and still make it look cool 😂. edit. The up pipe from the turbo is in the perfect spot to use the mailbox as a plenum 😂, you got to do it now it would fit so good and a plenum is really important for a happy turbo engine, you could even put a big intercooler in between to also act like a plenum and give you more power with the cooler air.

[@roberttemple9474]

That’s kinda funny that yall are using a smart car turbo, cause my wife has a smart car. Now that turbo on the smart car makes 100 hp. Good luck guys

[@richardmoll5618]

This is gonna be epic going down the track! You guys did a great job.

[@chrislollich525]

Get it on, Guys. Thanks from NOR-CAL.

[@SKOMPAS]

I vote down the road to go for a blow through carb, you could use a FMU with a vacuum/boost reference something like a 10:1 so for every pound of boost your fuel pressure goes up 10lbs, it’s a real cheat when turbo charging a car with stock ecu and no tune!

[@junkyardboost8372]

Fmu only works with fuel injected engines. If they did a blow through set up they only need fuel pressure to rise at a 1:1 ratio with boost pressure.

[@SKOMPAS]

@@junkyardboost8372 ohh I see ofc I forgot you can’t feed fuel pressure too a carb, they just don’t want the boost emptying the bowl

[@TDG2654]

@@SKOMPAS you can feed pressurized fuel to a carb, in fact you have to in a blow through setup. What you need to do is also feed that boost to all of the vents on the carb and make sure it's sealed up properly.

[@Skwisgar2322]

@@TDG2654 yes, you either need to have a carb that is rated for boost, or you can build a plenum that houses the entire carb in boost.

[@MRONETEN]

That is an awesome job guys. Cant wait to see this go down the strip

[@jfolck1886]

Very cool! But with that much power going into that engine, I feel like you need to build more of a shield in front of you just in the scary scenario that the piston that's pointing back at your head decides to go through the head of the engine!

[@cameronrussell1986]

The sound this engine makes is awesome! So excited for the next turbo rail episode!

[@jonathoncouchey7151]

Listen to a cross plane v8 then "standard American sound" they are basically four of these things put together.

[@michaelblacktree]

Another issue you might have with a draw-through setup is the manifold vacuum pulling oil past the seals in the turbo. If the exhaust gets smokey, that's probably why.

[@kasuraga]

Simple fix for that might be running a bare throttle body after the turbo that's synced up with the carb so its equally restricted on both sides of the turbo during partial throttle and idle

[@yatajoris2857]

The exhaust cut out is vallen the wastegate. It caps te max amount of boost. With a manual or electronic boost controller you can adjust how much boost pressure it will run. You can also manually change the springrate

[@akalaification]

Love you guys. So happy to see you revisit older projects like the ones that built this channel. You have learned so much, so it is awesome to see what you would fix on your own builds. Keep up the great work!

[@robertoakley9609]

I had a 1981 KZT 1000 with the ATP 1134 CC TURBO KIT. The kit came with a 4 into 1 exhaust header that had the adjustable waste gate between header and turbo (RAJAY) IT HAD A MODIFIED Zenith carb attached via two studs and nuts to the air intake of the turbo. the turbo mounted by hose to a intake manifold that replaced the OEM carbs. there was a water reservoir that supplied water to the carb intake when boosting. the water inhibits pre detonation at extreme boost pressure. the carb had a hole drilled into the main jet about 1/16" in size and located inside the float bowl. when the turbo spooled up the fuel would be drawn through that 1/16 inch hole bypassing the high speed tuning needle and minimized turbo lag when above 4K RPM, the engine would surge 6K RPM indicating it was trying to boost at that surge (6K) no turbo lag. I you drill a 1/32 " hole in main jet extreme turbo lag through the RPM range. no mod on main jet = turbo lag only no boost. the system above is draw though timing advance 36 BTDC

[@crs2275]

Guys I'm excited about this one! The rail is my favorite build. Can't wait to see this thing realize it's potential.

[@lemontec8222]

@CarsandCameras the pipe going from the turbo outlet to the engine intake ,replace it with a metal tube ,a carb or a throttle on a fuel injection when idle is going to create negative pressure in the intake manifold, in this case ,the black soft pipe

[@oliverristaino3627]

This is one project I’ve been waiting to come back, builds are amazing to which few can accomplish.

[@ThePaulv12]

In a blow through you can put the carb in an airtight box. The SA publication 'the Carter carburetor' has a pic of a 4bbl install on a V8 and it's a 2 piece box with a series of over center latches like OEM air cleaners have holding the 2 halves together IIRC. You're probably going to lose a bit of boost pressure up the throttle cable - it's only a small leak. The bottom part of the box is an integrated base gasket. Doing it like this has a lot of advantages as the carb is still load sensing in the traditional sense by pressure differential of float bowl vs Venturi vacuum as it is when it was NA. The ratios remain the same because the whole carb is pressurized. You have to use solid floats (but the float[s] may be solid anyhow) they can't be hollow plastic or brass because they collapse. Apart from jetting and a stiffer throttle return spring you don't need to change much else. Disadvantages? - less charge cooling. The way you have it now you get good charge cooling. In fact suck through supercharging was not an insignificant discovery in the first part of the 20th Century. If you get 15psi you should nearly double your power.

[@shaderblue2555]

You know it's gonna be fast when the engine wants more than you can give it lol

[@octane613]

It's just collapsing because the tube isn't rated for vacuum. Doesn't matter what size turbo, at idle it'll always be at vacuum.

[@alebone_]

@@octane613 yeah, ngl watching this was kind of frustrating

[@Jakefrc]

When you need to make a manifold for something like that you can put the turbo on a scanner and scan it into the pc, import the scan into your cad program and trace it. It’ll save you so much time measuring and makes it really easy to get right.

[@TheCovertOperation90]

Very unique build. This is just something I thought of while watching this video and hearing you guys talk about high horsepower. For safety, you guys might consider running a steel cable around the rear head incase you have an overboost situation or something and rip the thing apart. People do that on the big boosted Cummins engines in case of block failure, and with this being a stock block pushing out more power than it was designed for, it'd be cheap insurance so you don't have a head flopping into your lap down the drag strip. Love the build series, fellas.

[@DieselsandOutdoors]

This is the project that got me watching the channel

[@gaboonviper85]

Keep in mind guys.....you must load the engine to figure out what your true boost is.....you cant depend on revving the engine in neutral

[@eugenesbackyardrepair4593]

Only thing missing my friends is some bright green fuel lines . Maybe some nice fan will send you some lol. I love the turbo idea for sure

[@billsmith5166]

With that fuel delivery/carb there's a chance of drenching the driver with fuel really fast if it's not done right. Run a separate oil tank for the turbo, it's simpler, and safer for both the engine and turbo..

[@vcmdpropulsion126]

you are setting up for a exhaust pulse back feed on the piping from the head to the turbo. what you want to do is cut it down and put a buffer box to the turbo so the turbo gets even pressure. the exhaust pulse is going to jump from side to side and pulse the turbo.

[@BuzzLOLOL]

That dragster is actually lighter than the typical 55 HP motorcycle that is vastly faster! Suspecting a further gearing/belting problem... Use Oldsmobile Turbo Rocket fluid as was used stock on 1962 Jetfires: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKvaZopnp7eApck

[@kasuraga]

They're gonna be running methanol so no reason to add the "turbo rocket fuel" since that's all it was. (50:50 water meth)

[@BuzzLOLOL]

@@kasuraga - Mixture works and cheaper than pure methanol...

[@kasuraga]

@@BuzzLOLOL not if that's what your entire fuel supply is. Mixture only works if you're using it on TOP of another fuel like gasoline. If you're running pure methanol, 50:50 water/meth would be worse.

[@straybullitt]

Oldsmobile Turbo Rocket Fluid hasn't been available for 55+ years.... As someone already mentioned, it's just water and methanol.

[@BuzzLOLOL]

@@kasuraga - Of course about 1% Turbo Fluid was added to gasoline... pure methanol gets expensive...

[@fernandonanando8438]

PERFECT dragster turbo

[@Alteca1995]

I would go with a larger or longer charge pipe. It needs more volume, this will help with idle. It is a very common misconception that long turbo piping increases turbo lag. This is not true, it has been tested over and over. If the turbo piping was some crazy length(20ft for a setup like this) then yes it might make a difference but for yalls purposes, turbo lag will not be an issue.

[@zachheindl8619]

More piping or big diameter just makes more volume for the turbo to fill up....not gonna do anything for them in this application. If anything they need to ditch the air filter and just throw a velocity stack on it.

[@douglasbaxter3346]

For a blow through set up yes a airbox to blow into the carb would help with idle but this is draw through set up it will be fine they just need to hard like that charge pipe and have short joiners not one big floppy hose

[@zachheindl8619]

@@douglasbaxter3346 you said floppy hose 🤣🤣🤣

[@thomasabbott2573]

The lever is call a manual waste gate, it allows a certain amount of exhaust to spin the turbo when that amount is approached it opens and slows the turbo, you can adjust boost by tightening or loosening the rod or you can buy a boost controller

[@dynamite6507]

Who saw Ike's face @ 20:12 lol he like dude I'm riding this first. I could see him thinking

[@timwilkinson2797]

Charlie Is great for a really good Team ! Cheers n Thanks from rhe UK ! Nice one Guys

[@c0c0asauce]

An EFI setup wouldn't be that difficult or expensive. The intake manifold is the only part you need to build. Fuel pump, injectors, oil temp, air temp, crank position, coils, map sensor, throttle body, TPS, and relays can all be aquired from a junkyard super cheap. Microsquirt

[@junkyardboost8372]

No offense to these guys but that’s all a bit over their heads.

[@c0c0asauce]

@@junkyardboost8372 🤣

[@WingmanJohnny]

Super cool guys. That works fantastic. Better get a better rear end set up so you can handle the power. Can't wait to see the results on the track. Keep up the great work guys.

[@dennisjohns624]

That thing is bada$$ I'm really excited to see it on the track again. That launch out of the shop looked promising. Figure out that key and I was also thinking you guys should build a sheild for that rear axle for safety because I feel you guys are gonna need it with how rowdy that thing is gonna be

[@cliffpalermo]

Crunching paper sound in exhaust is the engine pinging. Time for microsquare TIG welder and aluminum practice. Keep it coming keep it coming thanks and more please

[@shannunvanderwal4232]

Also keep in mind that not just the boost pressure activates the wastegate valve the exaust pressure against the valve also opens it

[@bradthackston2323]

It’s a waste-gate change the springs or spring in it if you can. And you can tac weld that key in place in the corners.

[@clintonkerry3544]

Add a mini intercooler to the top to take up charge pipe space and make the distance worth the looks.

[@zachheindl8619]

Also i agree with another comment on an AFR gauge....would be a worthy investment considering the fuel change also and would help tune for max power

[@hankdoral]

No one says the word "here" as badass as Isaac.

[@cheerdiver]

Koenigsegg eliminated turbo lag by directing a 1/8" pipe, for compressed air, into the turbo. Not only does it spool faster, the intake air is much cooler. They developed their pneumatic valve system shortly after.

[@jamesallenmainieri]

Guys, reinforcing the charge pipe with aluminum or metal, or just making it out of tubing and only using silicone to connect where you have to will prevent the intake collapse also for your application you might be able to just plug up the waste gate alltogether

[@rcsubject9844]

19:23 it sounds like they’re talking about the waste gate……but I was so confused they must do a lot with turboes 😂

[@rd95stang]

Get a wideband on it to keep a eye on the airfuel ratio, and you can put a vacuum T or 2 on the line going to that internal wastegate to up the boost

[@garrettdoty1620]

Dual turbos, carbs and exhaust. Each cylinder have its own setup.

[@jameswarren423]

Crazy cool guys , when Ike took off out of the shop that first time I think I turbode in my shorts that was awesome! cannot wait to see this completed dynode and at the dragstrip👍🏼🤩💪🏼

[@xNELVKALEN]

You guys outdid yourselves on this one! Content is just getting better and better. Great work boys!

[@ihatejoze]

The part that opens up is the wastegate, it lets exhaust bypass the turbo so the turbo doesn’t make all the boost it can which could blow the engine. The intake is collapsed because there’s a vacuum behind the closed throttle plate

[@Boostedlifestyle]

this totally seems like something i would do

[@larrydavidson3402]

Be interesting to see this out on the track, you guys are the best.

[@StephenBrewer89]

Wastegate is what we’re looking for lol get a manual boost controller so you can control wastegate therefore control boost. As for the hose, you could get a reinforced hose ( they make some with springs inside)

[@999benhonda]

You can get a manual boost controller to control at what psi of boost the waste gate opens. They are cheap, and go inline from the vacuum signal to the wastegate. You don't see them on modern cars, but older ones you'd slap a manual boost controller on and up the boost from 5-6 psi stock to whatever the turbo/engine could handle. If you block the vacuum signal or don't have one, boost creep could cause a psi spike high enough to damage the engine.

[@hayden6056]

You'll be wanting to keep a lot of inline oil feed restrictors on hand to figure out just how little oil you can feed it with. So if theirs an easy way to hook the coolant jackets up go for it. If it's a turbo off a smart car it won't have a carbon seal which is one of the main reasons draw through was so laggy. You'll wash the bushes and float them with too much oil as the fuel comes through it. Or you'll push past the ball bearings pending how the shaft runs. Their's a lot of people trying to run the newer backing plate turbos with suck through. They have to keep stepping restrictors down to stop the Batmobile smoke screen though and some have died prematurely from dry running.

[@mikeedward2827]

A couple things- That "exhaust valve" is the wastegate. It directs exhaust flow away from the turbo to control boost pressure. Secondly, tell Isaac to brake boost it.. hold the brake and the gas down, put a load on the turbo and watch how it launches then 👍👍

[@WyFoster]

Problem with that is that it'll burn a spot in the belt.

[@limprooster3253]

Thank you guys so much for sticking with the 670. I wanna see it hooked to a real transmission somehow. I think the CVT is too finicky

[@bobod830_9]

If it lags the volume of the piping isnt the problem, unless it so small its restrictive. The turbo can fill those pipes 50 times over in 1 second. Lag is when there is not enough exhaust flow to get the turbo spinning. You have to rev it higher, or get a more restrictive exhaust housing to create more exhaust pressure to spin the turbo up sooner. Thats glossing over but true in general.

[@dfporkchop]

One suggestion i would put a support for the carb. Vibration down the track might shake it off. Great job guys

[@Geequed]

Oh, and now it begins. Turbo fever. 😏 If you get that turbo to deliver enough boost... you're gonna be making a lot more boosted builds, I just know it. I'm looking forward to seeing it rip down the track. And....I'm going with Charles, it definitely needs a bigger turbo. 😁 "We neutraled our 4L60" 😂 Nice to see that it's a GM... Be safe and have fun guys! Greetings from Northern Sweden! 🇸🇪

[@peytonschmidt1116]

Maybe a more flexible Pfc pipe would be a better option than that rubber hose. Just an idea. Keep up the great work with the content, been watching this channel since the first predator 212 swap

[@kimjeppesen2172]

You guys are absolutely crazy!! I love it!!

[@Rev-maniac7500]

Every time I watch you guys you blow me away at what you guys can do!

[@alanmachen9884]

Usually when turbocharger you may want to gap the rings. It burns hotter and the rings expand a lot more.

[@callmecardo916]

I dig this build Can't wait to see this one👍🏼👍🏼

[@cgracing2146]

Run a vacuum T on the vacuum line off the wastegate. You can run different size Ts to control how much boost you want

[@jamesgravel7755]

You need to weld the waste gate shut. Hard pipe the intake or use real turbo silicone hose. To get the best results make sure the turbo and the oil is up to temp before making a run and it will boost a lot faster and last a lot longer. I would up the jet at least 2-3 sizes bigger and run e85. It will run a lot better. Those are just few tips to get you in the ball park. If you have any issues message me and I’ll help you get it good. I’ve installed 100’s of turbos on just about everything. A two stroke is a challenge

[@michaelwittke8336]

That turbo makes more whine than my EcoSport!😅😂🤣🤣🤣

[@11LowDown11]

The vacuum mech on your turbo is a waste gate for turbo over speed only! It typically opens when throttle returns to idle after WOT.

[@marcmo7138]

I believe you are thinking of a blow off valve. A blow off valve closes upon returning to idle to prevent turbo surge.

[@jasonphillips8409]

One of your guys best videos

[@butchgarner3911]

you have two cylinders.... you have two turbos..... what the problem? Do you only have one carb? lol This was an awesome episode!!! Thank you!!