What's this yellow light on my keypad? How do I get rid of it?

We've had calls from many customers wondering what a yellow light on their DSC Keypad means, and how to fix it. Here, Jacqueline walks you through the process!

[@kjay8534]

Nice work on this, but I have the third and was waiting for you to get to it since it was right there with the others. Then you skipped with no explaining why. Please redo the video or at least let us know at the top that it won't be included. I entered the exact model number in my google search and yours was the FIRST video to come up.

[@rwinnovation7758]

I looked up the related instructions manual for this. The instructions are effectively the same, the only difference being that one of the zone lights will come on instead of a number being displayed. For example, in the tutorial, a "1" appears on the screen. On the older LED keypad, ZONE 1 would light up instead.

[@tyronepillay1886]

Hi there, i have the 3rd one as well... when i presss *2, a yellow light flashes and then zone 8 lights up. What does this mean? Zone 8 says Panic on my door card. Thanks

[@Dramatik4Real]

thank you, replaced battery but couldn't get the yellow light to go away and this helped!

[@rhyno3496]

Yes Thanks for skipping over the last one like it's the same as the others, and not be helpful, and as big a waste of time as possible, but you tried right

[@natasha16612]

We replaced the battery but the yellow sign is still on. Why?

[@MBSUDS]

You didn’t show the last example and it’s very differ t from the other 2- no read out. Not helpful.

[@theintruder77]

What is the trouble condition if the yellow light is flashing? Checking for trouble indicates that there are no trouble conditions.

[@davidmacphee3549]

Notify the monitoring company before you test your system. You may have a Tamper signal on your box and no siren. No surprise knocks on the door. "Hey Mom". Test all your doors and windows. Have someone watch the keypad, Verify the signals to check the programming and function. They should see what you did. If it's loud let your neighbors know. Crazy as it sounds, people have been known to deliberately set off their Alarm to time how long it takes for the Police to come. I understand what they are thinking but still, that is a horrible idea. To test that battery, of course, disconnect the A/C for at least 20 minutes or more if you have time, (first wire on the left). come back and test the battery voltage under full load with the system fully working., Less than 13 volts, like in this video, it's done. You can leave it disconnected as it could now cause false Alarms, but replace it right away . Make Sure you put the A/C back on when done testing. Check with the Station. That's what you pay them for. They should get a reset signal on the battery if you pulled it off before. They could have ignored the first battery fail signal or it was never programmed in. 4 years is enough time but yeah 5 years is about right to die. The system should be carefully inspected long before that and a new battery after a long time is a good idea anyway. Dealer Cost price is minimal and a specific service call can be expensive for the client with travel and other things considered. (In huge installations, I changed them all at same time to reduce future calls and inconvenience. They have such a predictable life). Surprisingly, those batteries even small 4 amps can hold up the system for very long times without power. More than a day, maybe a week? Who knows? I guess someone could do the math but it will certainly hold up to any emergency. Just pulling the battery out and using a meter is never going to mean a thing. A test meter has no load. It's kind of sneaky. It will always 'show' good. They are nothing like Alkaline, AA's that die gradually. DSC panels are incredibly reliable and can take a direct hit of lightning. HONEST! That's a story in itself. Never mind. They get up, dust themselves off and reset just fine. Not so much for the other stuff in the house. Too Bad. Got insurance? The most wonderful iconic panel is the DSC PC-3000. I am confident many of these are still in service even after 35 years later, I always soldered all my splices with a 'Bic lighter' I was good at that, and used 'B Connecters' when they became available. B for 'Bell'. Compact Heat Shrink is better for windows. B connecters could be gently lifted and put back on to prevent moisture intrusion if no others were handy but still testable, if the splice itself did not need to be examined. The house is going to be around a long time and the Alarm should never be a problem. Reed switches can get 'sticky' so all contacts need to be carefully tested after time. They don't show much high resistance but more than a tenth of an ohm? Forget it. It's long done. These panels began with the DSC PC 2000 in 1986. This was a primitive transistorized prototype that sold like mad for one year to be replaced with the PC2500, far better and fully keypad programable. No having to' burn' a chip. There was also the four zone PC1000 that introduced full keypad programming but really caught installers and service people totally off guard. 'Uh oh, I don't know this one" For such a tiny simple panel, it required a whole new way of learning. Long before wireless. Out of the box we were! Revolutionary stuff indeed and far ahead of any competition like Ademco and Napco. DSC was made in Downsview, The North part of Toronto, Ontario in Canada. In respect for the 16 zone PC-3000. For it's time, this panel could offer so much for everyone that the company had trouble interesting anyone with it's newer products. It was like the Elvis Presley of Alarm panels. It left all competitors in the dust. Yeah but ..The other panels were kind of nice but were much more expensive. Ademco got way better than it's older stuff and made itself a valid option to DSC but very different and fun to work with, as they worked very well with optional wireless, at less cost than an ITI SX-V and easier to understand. If you are really into this stuff about hard wired systems, and want to use a multi meter, One Ohm of 22 gauge wire at room temperature is 33 feet, feed and return, so in a house you are testing each zone for very low resistances and need a meter that shows fractions of an ohm. A huge factory or warehouse is a whole different story. Ohms Matter.

[@huongyn8808]

The siren does not sound when alarm goes off, what should I check? My friend has the pc1555rkz keypad (the 3rd one on this video).Thank you

[@TheGrotewolds]

Thank you!

[@guitarB0P]

Excellent video , nice work great info thanks

[@jfmmccoll9189]

Hi purchased house with this system, not monitored. When armed back door siren goes off ok, but not when open front door. How do I fix this, Txs fj

[@valperez3903]

I pressed *2 and the number 2348 come up . Then it cleared and it says armed and trouble . I don’t know how to turn off armed every time we open a door the whole alarm system will go off .

[@MP-kv3fo]

For center model * 2 then a 1 will show on the screen then press 1 on the keypad

[@Simon-im2zn]

When I do a * 2 I get the number 8 coming up in the troubleshooting, is this also an indication of a flat battery?

[@mehmetimgax]

thank you , it solved my annoying problem :)

[@Crazycatlady1836]

How do I turn off the door chime on the third model you have in this video?

[@djanthonytransitfilms6799]

*4

[@Crazycatlady1836]

@@djanthonytransitfilms6799 I figured it out...I just ripped the whole system out of the wall. Problem solved.

[@NyxKemo]

*4 or if your system is an older PC series you do: *6 followed by (master code) then 6 and then exit out by pressing #

[@adrianxie1298]

Thanks so much

[@scan-techalarmsystems3447]

Your Welcome Alina

[@thomasmmethi9252]

My Keypad shows amber, followed instructions, Pressed *2 The 1 came Up and pressed it No 5came up, What then because I cannot arm the system

[@ruyueding1617]

I have the third kind. I do *2, zone 1 turned red. Is that meaning No.1?

[@NyxKemo]

Yes

[@michelleisabel]

What about if it’s an 8?

[@tessapietersen21]

Hi I still have the 3rd keypad. The alarm when set on stay (no. 1) goes off anytime after an hour, or more up to 6 hours. It went off twice now within 10 minutes. This happens every night during the night there's nobody fiddling on the property. This disturbs our sleep. I don't know what happens if nobody is he me and alarm is set on away (no.2). The large backup battery was replaced early this year. Do the keypad need resetting and how? Also, can anyone give me the model name of this keypad please? Thanks in advance for any help.

[@rickmueller1476]

Pc1555rkz led keypad

[@Guidlen]

I press * 2 and number 4 appeared... what is it?

[@AmitDongol]

I found this care.cpisecurity.com/hc/en-us/articles/200594599-Why-do-I-have-a-yellow-trouble-light-on-my-DSC-keypad-

[@Goodi8]

Pressed * 2......3 came up on screen pressed 3 and trouble yellow light started flashing. :(

[@tippysheba]

Number 8 came up

[@NyxKemo]

Time and date trouble

[@huongyn8808]

@@NyxKemo how to set time and date please?

[@NyxKemo]

@@huongyn8808 *6, (master user code), 1, (time in 24h format), (date mm/dd/yy), #, #, #

[@deficator750]

Those 3 panels are worst panels to have, they are very complicated and not user friendly. They are slower and tend to have more problems, especially the middle one and left one. Right side one is completely outdated and should be eliminated from the shelves.

[@FranssensM]

You know your stuff, I have the middle one. It is not user friendly and the manual is not easy reading either. I once learned how to silence the alarm beeps or at least turn them down. I was so happy I forgot to write it down.

[@LIAMXLIU]

Rubbish system!

[@christopherbrewer6406]

Please speak up next time and try a better camera. Your voice go's up and then low when you turn your head at importance points that you are trying to make.

[@alinagomez4797]

thank you so much