What to know when repairing cracked BONDO

This video is perfect to learn what you need to know when repairing cracked bondo/ body filler on your car or restoration project. I'll cover what to look for and how to make the repair. I'll share how to mix, apply, sand, and blocking tips and tricks.
If you find this video helpful, be sure to let me know in the comments. I welcome your feedback and questions
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dry guide coat
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dura block kit
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motor guard flex block
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prep solvent
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mirka dustless sanding system
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Icing glazing putty
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3m Performance paint gun
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of garage noise, it can not guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information or improper use of this information. Garage Noise assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair videos. Due to factors beyond the control of garage noise, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again, any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not garage noise

[@GarageNoise]

Help out the channel. Let's see how many shares we can get! COMMENT #share if you did. Appreciate the support!

[@jdimeo1966]

Thanks for sharing a real world repair without an unlimited budget. Nice video.

[@GarageNoise]

Your welcome! Appreciate the support!

[@martymcfly3986]

man, your channel is an encyclopedia, God bless you for inspiring us all

[@GarageNoise]

Thanks, brother! Appreciate the support!

[@razer192]

Only video I have seen where you explain everything, fantastic content 👌

[@GarageNoise]

Thanks brother!

[@willsachs]

Love the step by step format in this video. Thanks, Chris!

[@GarageNoise]

Good to know! Thanks for the comment and support!

[@bigrustybucket]

You are a great craftsman as well as a great teacher. I really like how you explain as you go.

[@GarageNoise]

Awesome! Appreciate all the support!

[@expertcarpainter1373]

Love your videos! Good jobs!

[@GarageNoise]

👊👊 Appreciate the support brother!

[@octanegarage3729]

Nice video. Thanks for the great tips

[@GarageNoise]

Appreciate the comment brother!

[@dcal4666]

Will you put out a video on blending and clearing the hood?

[@GarageNoise]

Absolutely!

[@forrestlibby9456]

Great tutorial!

[@GarageNoise]

Thank's brother!

[@impalaman4546]

Like always great job nice 👍

[@GarageNoise]

Thank's brother! Appreciate the support!

[@rwet1]

I've got several sanded breakthroughs in my paint job on a 1972 Chevelle. I'm going to use some of your techniques for sanding out, then primer then paint and clear. If you have any issues with breaking through your clear coat, I would appreciate a video on that. You do a no BS video and provide the detail to do the fixes. Great Job!

[@GarageNoise]

👍

[@bendafixer4542]

I follow your procedure step by step

[@GarageNoise]

Awesome! Appreciate the comment and support!

[@PhillipHall01]

This is now one of my favorite channels! Thanks for the VERY good videos! Did you use to have a detailing channel some time ago? Phillip Hall

[@GarageNoise]

Hey thank's brother! I appreciate all the support. No, this is my first KZbin channel. Thank's for the comment!

[@PhillipHall01]

@@GarageNoise Your welcome.

[@lukmansalam634]

Good job congratulations

[@GarageNoise]

Thank you

[@courtneylewis9500]

Good job

[@GarageNoise]

Thank you!

[@satamanschmidt3428]

I don't know what paint system you use but the absolute best answer for this type of situation is a waterborne sealer. The reason for this is that there will be no lifting since the waterborne system isn't going to attack whatever crap is underneath it and it will seal the topcoats from lifting whatever garbage in underneath the sealer. It's a cool chemistry trick and it works when you have no idea is to what was used before you got there.

[@GarageNoise]

Yeah, that's the nice thing about waterborne paints.

[@drummer_zay9493]

Tip for cleaning out that crevice nicely: use a thin wire wheel horizontally. Works real nice 👍

[@GarageNoise]

👍👊

[@JohnWD40TC02]

Awesome video Chris some really useful info there which has helped ne quite a lot, I wish we had the Upol UP2253 here in the UK as our version the S2025 has no mention in the TDS about using it as a sealer or being able to tint the primer, it's just a high build or a surfacer, I'm wondering if it's the same stuff but due to the VOC content our laws don't allow it to be used as a sealer, I think some experimenting is called for🤔😁John UK

[@GarageNoise]

Thank's brother appreciate the support!

[@tylerfraker7716]

I absolutely love Icing. I’ve been using USC Grip(AG47), and thinking about trying USC Gold. Have you tried that stuff? If so, do you like the UPOL better? I love Raptor and their EGC High Build 2k and even their EGC medium solids clear is amazing for the price. Trying to figure out what systems I like the most, would love your input. Thanks for the great videos!

[@GarageNoise]

I haven't used the usc gold or the clear coats. I'll be using the ag47 soon tho. I may have to try those clears and make a video.

[@jeremyfake1612]

Once again great video! Can you happen to let me know what urethane reducer you use in the U-pol primer? I can't seem to find a definite answer. I'm assuming any urethane reducer should work but maybe I'm wrong. Thanks

[@GarageNoise]

Any urethane reducer will work. I pick it up at my oreillys is master pro brand or I get the house brand at my local supplier. Appreciate the support!

[@Genshim5]

Hi again Master, how is going with the spoterwellder class 110v. Can I use for my start mine garage too. Thanks 🙏 for the 📸

[@GarageNoise]

It's good, works well!

[@Genshim5]

@@GarageNoise how much its cost in your country? I from Nicaragua.

[@GarageNoise]

@@Genshim5 Amazon $289 u.s

[@StreetWorksMedia]

if you dont mind sharing, how much would a job like this cost the customer on average?

[@GarageNoise]

$1000

[@PassportBrosLive]

Doing some research for my own personal Elky project. I'm seeing that Bondo is horrible in the long run.

[@GarageNoise]

Absolutely! I have an older one on my channel. Definitely worth revisiting this topic tho.

[@sinistan1002]

would it be better to use fiberglass first then refill it over that? i thought for holes the former is what you want since bondo/filler types I thought was recommended not for holes but only up to about 1/8 in deep ? it seems its hard to know when to just replace metal by welding vs filler etc

[@GarageNoise]

Yes, for hole fiberglass is the best.

[@XqeDiosxqe]

You know what they say "Try to keep the repair smallest possible " But that never works..😅😂

[@GarageNoise]

it tends to keep growing!

[@netwt449]

I thought the tiny rock chip on the front of my hood is ugly but THIS is nastie!

[@GarageNoise]

For sure! Appreciate the comment and support!

[@daveunbranded]

If you filled it with fiberglass, would it have been better

[@GarageNoise]

Fiberglass is a good option I didn't feel it was needed here but could've been used.

[@daveunbranded]

@@GarageNoise I was asking because I fill the dent with fiberglass I was just wondering how long it was going to last

[@sheerwillsurvival2064]

Lol hope mine doesn’t fail 😵‍💫

[@GarageNoise]

🤣👍

[@jhenson5168]

Just curious. Why are you using gold and not glass, acid etch, or even metal glaze?

[@GarageNoise]

No particular reason. There's plenty of great fillers out that would work well. Appreciate the comment and support!

[@jhenson5168]

@@GarageNoise I mean you stated the guy wants to sell the truck so he doesn’t want to spend a ton of money on it. And that’s okay. But won’t the next owner have the same issue you are fixing now…? Honest im being sincere, it’s counterintuitive though, the hole in the hood will draw moisture, and without the acid etch will rust right?

[@GarageNoise]

@@jhenson5168 Your right about the hole. Although the hole is not what cause the hood to rust . That hole was created by the spot welder. There's no way to be sure what caused the moisture to get under the filler. My guess is because the dent wasn't pulled the adhesion of the filler wasn't good and allowed rust to form. Your right the hole should've been welded but for years the procedure to pull a dent was to drill a hole to pull it out then fill it. It'll take a long time for that to rust but that doesn't make it ok either. Appreciate the comment!

[@ericharris9705]

I'm having a hard time removing 22 year old body filler completely. Can I just apply new filler over the old stuff? It's been there 22 year, so my guess is I should be fine, just need professional advice. Thanks

[@GarageNoise]

Depends what your looking to do honestly. If your restoring it I would remove it . If you getting a good looking driver ready than leave it. It's a little risky but you should be fine.

[@ericharris9705]

@@GarageNoise Thanks! I got it off the quarter panel, the stuff I'm having trouble getting all of is the frame under the driver door. I'm not gonna worry about it.

[@tedc9306]

How much did u charge the customer for that hood??? Ty

[@GarageNoise]

With paint about $800.00

[@tedc9306]

Thank u for ur response. I find myself following u and I get the confidence to do the work, but not sure what a somewhat fee should be. Don't stop ur videos, they HELP.

[@GarageNoise]

​@@tedc9306 👍👍

[@USER-pv2gj]

Man that truck was cobbed previously. It should have been replaced.

[@GarageNoise]

Yeah, it happens

[@Go69]

I LOVE the knowledge that you post... But.. I have to make reference to the the specific vehicle that you are working on.. My shop used to work on all makes, and models, of vehicles... The only area of separation I see is that my shop will no longer work on Fords.... Management has REFUSED to work on Ford products going forward as they say that regardless of the quality of work, Ford owners always bitch, and complain, and expect Ferarri type work, on their POS vehicles... We used to do a LOT of work for warranty companies, and insurance, companies, but lately they have stopped ALL work on Ford products... Apparently, it has become too cumbersome, too expensive, too time consuming, too problematic, to work on Fords and they (management) have refused all new jobs that are Ford... We are still a very busy shop... we are never short of work.. however we have far fewer "rework" than we ever had before... it makes no sense because we are doing the exact same work on ALL models of cars, but apparently we are having far fewer negative reviews once we stopped working on "F" products.. I am beginning to think that there is something different about Ford owners than other makes of vehicle manufacturers... They seem to be the LOWEST quality TRASH vehicles, and yet the owners expect the HIGHEST quality of repairs... We can't make your "F" product look like something Ferarri made.. No matter how much you want that... it's just NOT gonna happen.. But that appears to be the expectation. I've learned, from working in this industry, that I should avoid "F" owners at all cost as they appear to be "different" than everyone else around them... Kind of like the transgenders that expect to be treated "differently" than they appear, you kinda have to guess, and hope that you are right, in regards to how to address them... I kind of see managements point.. it's just not worth the added energy to figure it out... it's easier, and BETTER, just to say "NO thank you", and walk away... My shop maintains a very high standard of repair, and our reviews indicate that it is only getting better, by no longer working on "F" products... We run an average of 4.9 stars out of 5, and that is after walking away from "F" products.. prior to that (almost a year ago) we were at a 3.9 rating... Think about that... the ONLY thing we changed, was no longer working on "F" products... Wish we had done it a LONG time ago.. just not worth the drama. Not worth the headaches. Not worth the trouble. Not worth the added energy to try and satiate a "troubled" individual. You can't make an eternally depressed person "happy", nor can you make an "F" owner "happy"... My shop figured it out, and our reviews are soaring as a result.. The rest of you... should figure it out too... just "pass" on "F" vehicles, and watch your reviews sky-rocket... There is enough work out there that you don't have to work on TRASH to pay your bills. Let those "people" that buy trash, live with the the consequences of their decisions. I feel sorry for the shops that "have to" work on "F" products... well... thats a lie.. I don't feel sorry for them.. you get what you deserve... if you are only attracting that type of customer, then there is something desperately wrong with your business. We are quite happy working on everything except "F".... Yes, I know.. It's the same technique.. the same application, the same polishing, the same finish work.. But... It's not.. not when it's an "F" product.. Good Bye. Good riddance. Good luck with your TRASH. We are just one shop (of many) that will no longer work on polishing your turds...

[@GarageNoise]

I think what you trying to say is you don't like fords? 🤣🤣🤣