DT770 Removable Cable Mod

DT770 Removable Cable Mod. Changing out the stock cable on the DT 770 pro for a removable cable using a miniXLR connector.
This is a fairly simple mod but any DIY modification is inherently risky. If you're worried about damaging the driver whilst working on the headphone you can desolder the wire joining the right-hand side. You of course then take some risk with extra soldering on the driver itself. If you accidentally desolder the voice coil then the driver is dead. But if you are confident with your soldering and have a steady hand (unlike me) then that might make things easier.
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🔗 Products used in this video 🔗
🎧 Headphones 🎧
🛒 Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80 Ohm: amzn.to/32amtQu
🛒 Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250 Ohm: amzn.to/3bOqAGp
📐 Tools 📐
(You don't strictly need all of this, especially if you are resourceful but this is what I used)
🛒 Tacklife Rotary Tool: amzn.to/2yVccxb
🛒 Antex Soldering Iron Kit: amzn.to/3d9X125
🛒 Antex bench stand: amzn.to/2ykrxYf
🛒 Multimeter: amzn.to/2yWnGAH
🛒 Heat gun: amzn.to/2YpDypJ
🛒 Hot Glue gun: amzn.to/2zPa3Uj
🛒 Cutting Mat: amzn.to/3d9ZAkJ
🛒 Soldering Mat: amzn.to/35mqByr
🛒 Helping hands: amzn.to/2KNJtNl
🛒 RS Pro wire stripper: uk.rs-online.c...
🔎 Rean MiniXLR Connectors: www.rean-connec...
🔎 MBO lead free solder 3% silver: en.mbosolder.c...
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#dt770 #cablemod #wheezytech

[@WheezyTech]

This is a fairly simple mod but any DIY modification is inherently risky. But the point of this video is to show that if I can do it, then you can do it. If you're worried about damaging the driver whilst working on the headphone you can desolder the wire joining the right-hand side. You of course then take some risk with extra soldering on the driver itself. If you accidentally desolder the voice coil then the driver is dead. But if you are confident with your soldering and have a steady hand (unlike me) then that might make things easier.

[@ame1760]

Could I contact you to do the same process in my Dt and know how much it would cost me ? I don't know some other person that those this process

[@RafiGish]

@@ame1760 Wheezy created this vid to show how you can do this yourself, just sayin' ;-)

[@ArtzNeo]

the life is too short , so hack your devices

[@danielderaad]

During the process the left most contact on the driver came loose with the cable. I mean the gold ish plate to which the solder connects. Any advice on what I can do or am I just fucked?

[@Milamberinx]

@@danielderaad did you sort this? If not: you should be able to solder to the pad for the voice coil.

[@bolland83]

Your order of operations could be better, next time try soldering the wire leads to the driver first, then you can feed them through the hole, slide your heat shrink on, then solder the connector, and finally finish off your heat shrink. This should minimize the amount of fiddling with a loose driver and short wire leads.

[@WheezyTech]

Yeah in hindsight that would be the better way to go

[@unrealcyberfly]

@@WheezyTech What is the reason for replacing the wires on the driver? It seems like the mod would be a bit more easy when you connect the original wires to the new connector.

[@WheezyTech]

@@unrealcyberfly I have tried that before and theres 2 reasons for doing it this way. The original wires are very short so quite fiddly to work with. Also the original wires are litz which is very hard to solder compared to regular copper wire due to them having an enamel coating that needs to be burned off during the soldering. These two things combined makes it much simpler to replace this section of wiring.

[@unrealcyberfly]

@@WheezyTech I see. Thanks for the reply!

[@Milamberinx]

@@WheezyTech the original wires aren't short, they're the length of the whole cable all the way to the TRS plug. Also, you can burn the enamel coating and make soldering your connections easier in one stroke by 'tinning' the end of the wire, that is giving the wire a coat of solder on its own.

[@BaseHead808]

I think this got recommend to me cause I just bought a pair of dt770 pros 😂

[@mastaw]

Same lol Might do it when my cable breaks

[@legowtham]

I just ordered a pair.... How's your experience so far, brother?

[@shaunaksawargaonkar7814]

What your review about them

[@mastaw]

@@shaunaksawargaonkar7814 I've had the dt770 pro 80ohm for like half a week now and I absolutely love them. Extremely comfortable, the most open Soundstage I've heard so far (haven't tried open back headphones), they sound fairly neutral (coming from bassy headphones) but also more fun than truly flat headphones. Also they are quite cheap. Only gripes: The cable is way too long for me, and they very rarely sound a bit harsh with high frequencies. Absolutely acceptable though. Also notice the 80ohms are said to sound a bit different from the other versions

[@mastaw]

@@tomwoodward5334 Not atm. I was thinking about it, but haven't bought anything yet. Using my computer that has a pretty good sound card, I listen at around 30% volume. I have never used high end dacs or amps before, so I can't help with that.

[@nikolatesla3968]

Great video. Very informative and well done. Thank you so much! I used it as the template for my own DT 770 Pro mod, but added a couple twists of my own. First, I removed the snap-on headband pad, and then completely detached the left ear can assembly from the headband by removing the plastic slider shell on that side (2 small Torx screws). This made modifications to the can much easier by providing more freedom of movement. When it came to the wiring, I didn’t cut the off leads from the original cable inside the can. Instead, after removing the metal retention clip inside the cup, I was able to slip the wires out of the can far enough to snip off the strain relief that was molded onto the outside of the cable. I then cut the cable outside the can, leaving enough length to retain the original Litz wires for use with the new jack, removed the driver from the can with the short cable length still attached, and slid the cable sheath off the wires. This enabled me to avoid soldering to the terminal strip on the driver, but I was then faced with having to tin the Litz wires, which is not for the faint of heart. Fortunately, there is at least one instructional video on stripping and tinning Litz, and my digital soldering station is more than capable of achieving the necessary 400C (752F) degrees. After removing the cable jacket, tinning the Litz leads, and enlarging the hole in the can to fit my mini-XLR jack, I pulled the three individual wires back out through the hole and soldered them to the new jack (green = tip, red = ring, copper = sleeve). After I had confirmed my results with both a digital multimeter and some music, all that remained were to secure the jack to the can with some hot glue and reassemble everything. Job done.

[@smartcatcollarproject5699]

That was my idea, too. Using some grease is not enough to tin these original wires ?

[@Zeproe]

Another thing you can do if you are worried about making a hole in your headphones is to cut the original cable and make a pigtail style cable. (Would be great to see a tutorial of this as I cant find a single one for DT 770) Great video by the way, definitely the most detailed/hi-res tutorial out there for this mod!

[@WheezyTech]

Awesome thanks. I've tried that pigtail thing before but its not a particularly elegant solution. Gets the job done though.

[@coachtrip]

Did a similar mod some years ago without any disassembly. Simple cut the cable to about 5cm and solder on a new 3.5mm jack, then use a headphone extension of you choice. Job done.

[@beestingza]

How did it hold up? Any affect on sound quality?

[@匿名的-1]

I'm literally begging beyerdynamic to do this. It would be so easy to do so. This would be my dream headphone, only the cable is setting me back.

[@xferme]

Man, watching that driver dangle away as you move the shell and cut away is highly unnerving 😅 i’d be more comfortable unsoldering it completely

[@WheezyTech]

If I was more confident at soldering I would definitely do that. I solder so infrequently and I don't have the steadiest hand so I was more worried about accidentally desoldering the voice coil. But yeah either way you gotta be careful.

[@petehanratty950]

I knew this would be a first-rate procedure when I saw the Antex iron! Well thought out, presented well and good videography. Thanks for the idea. I really want an uncoiled cable, so I'll be doing this soon. Great job!

[@PhilipChou]

Thank you so much for this video. I love my dt770s. They were my first pair of 'good' headphones and I always come back to them. Took just about an hour start to finish. Whoo hoo!

[@lundsweden]

Good little mod for DT770 owners. I don't own one, so have gone with the new DT700 ProX (48 Ohm) which has a mini XLR jack as standard.

[@Fallen_Family]

The 700 pro x are good but I suggest getting a set of 770s and having them modded whether or not you do it yourself or not because they sound really good in some ways which the 700 pro x just don't although I love both sets of headphones

[@NFMorley]

Good tutorial - very helpful and using it to sense check my own upgrade work on a pair of DT990s. One step that you missed which may have made the process simpler is disconnecting the earphone (?) housing from the yoke, which is connected with Torx T6 screws (one either side), along with removing the buttoned on headband. This avoids having to bend/fold the band while working and gives plenty of slack to distance the earphone enclosure from the other half of the headphones whilst working on it.

[@kikeheredero]

nice camera placement, near, clear... thanks man!!

[@cuscoothriyas5163]

Absolutely perfect. My old pair died, bought a second pair because I love the 770s so much and now I get recommended this. Is this a sign? No matter, I have a broken pair to convert now

[@74neverlast]

I dont have this headphones, nor do I intend to buy them, I dont own soldering equipment, nor have I ever done this in my life.... however: I loved watching you how careful and meticulously you worked !

[@todddammit4628]

@beyerdyanmic needs to just release a new version of DT770s with the detachable cable and save us all a lot of work lol

[@wcg66]

Great video! I should really do this. I need to get that connector for a reasonable price locally. Everything from China is taking months to get here now. Thanks for this!

[@WheezyTech]

I actually found our local (RS components in the UK) electronics part supplier stocked everything I needed for a good price so that was lucky. Yeah things are taking a while from China atm, I'm still waiting for stuff that I'm sure is lost in transit at this point.

[@IGarrettI]

No idea what just happened, I'd be scared to do this, but Im subbing!

[@Grom84]

that's why you buy superlux and practice on them)

[@IGarrettI]

@@Grom84 ohh. I'll try that

[@Grom84]

@@IGarrettI superlux hd330 or hd660

[@hardway_6823]

Wow! What a superb instructional Wheezy! I've watched a good number of these type vids pertaining to this subject specifically (Beyerdynamic HPs, cables and various mods) as well as related content for other HPs and stuff. I am an electrical engineer and "moderate" audiophile, and I don't recall ever seeing any such material presented and articulated with the clarity and skill you've shown here - exceptionally well done, thanks! (Liked and Sub'd)

[@WheezyTech]

Awesome thanks, I enjoyed making this one

[@NeonPizza80s]

Even if this mod is done properly, will there be any audio quality degradation or will it sound identical as if it weren't modded, out of the box.

[@Lambda_Ovine]

Great! I'll only dare to do this if the cable breaks on mine, otherwise I see no point. But cool to know this is an easy mod!

[@sensemusicofficial]

Helping hands pro tip.. use a peice of foam on the alligator clip to minimise damage when using to clip

[@WheezyTech]

Good tip, thanks

[@ErimlRGG]

Just a tip. You don't need to handle the whole thing as one. You can just open the headpad and unscrew the plastic sides with the same bit that's used for Xbox controllers, I think is called torx, very easy to find. That way you're just moving the left earpad

[@JPDC624]

Thanks for the video. I think I'll cut the original cable two inches past the headphones then pull them put of the cable sheath, and voila, already on the coil from the factory, ready to micro-trim and solder onto the XLR. I'll see if that works!

[@QuantenMagier]

Mod done; thanks for the tutorial that was really helpful!

[@uggamugga99]

Mine have a faulty cable so I’m definitely gonna give this a try

[@liberatorkramit]

If you remove the headband pad the connecting cable between the left and right earcup is completely free. It isnt run through any part of the frame. The headband is just snaps, made to be removed/replaced. Quite possibly one of my favorite design choices

[@thomaskohler5181]

Just finished my DT770 Mod: From 80 Ohm to 600 Ohm. I'm in love. So much more Detail. Even better than the 250 Ohm Version, which is a little ear piercing. I never understood why Beyerdynamic isn't selling a DT770 Verfsion with 600 Ohm...

[@WheezyTech]

Nice, did you use driver from the 880?

[@thomaskohler5181]

@@WheezyTech No, I guess they don't match with a closed back headphone. I used the original DT770 600 Ohm drivers from their website. Unfortunately one driver costs 48,70 Euro. So you better be careful with soldering ;-) Here's the Link: www.beyerdynamic.de/system-600-ohm-dt-770.html

[@WheezyTech]

@@thomaskohler5181 I forgot that they used to do a 600 Ohm 770. This is the reason I love Beyerdynamic, the fact they still make these parts available to buy even when they don't currently produce a 600 Ohm 770 is excellent service.

[@NeonPizza80s]

I wish i could just buy the DT770(250) with a straight cable, even if it isn't detachable. Coil Cables are my worst enemy :P I could always shoot for the more expensive DT1770, but i hear they're worse, in ways, compared to the 250 ohm DT770's.

[@32NinerBravo]

IMO, this should already come like this. This can be the deciding factor in getting these vs something with a removable cable. Its ridiculous to have to go through this.

[@AlOne-xg6dv]

Great job, very temptating and scariing. Your unsteady hands made me fear all along. Congratulations. I own a DT 770 PRO 80 ohms for a few weeks and i will wait for its cable to betray me. For the time beeing, i use SonarWorks Reference 4 to EQ it at its best, it's very noticeable and makes it an even better headphone.

[@cdbtheclaw]

Definitely a mod I will keep in the back of my head for my Tygr 300R. I love them so much, but the original Beyerdynamic cable just is a bit stiff so making that exchangeable might be a good idea. I probably will wait though until one day I damage the cable to do it since otherwise I would be to sweaty while doing the mod ^^

[@graham542]

Amongst the 267 previous comments someone may have already mentioned this, so forgive me if they have, but: A balanced mod would not be much more trouble - the necessary 4 separate wires are all available in the left earcup. Just needs 4-pole mini XLR connectors and cable (Van Damme mini Starquad is ideal - once you've used a meter to identify its identical pair colours) plus your choice of connector for the amp end (either Pentaconn plug - now much cheaper than they were, or 4-pole standard- sized XLR). As well as a detachable balanced lead, you could also make up a 3-pole TRS plug to a 4-pole mini XLR plug WIRED UNBALANCED within the plug. Then you could use the headphones balanced or, as originally supplied, unbalanced, to suit your available amp output(s). (A balanced mod is that much easier, of course, on models where the already fitted 3-pole mini XLR just needs swapping out for a 4-pole).

[@yofoon]

Thank you! Best video i found on youtube for this mod.

[@marcinkoscielny1481]

The internet taught me that everything fits in a square hole, so I did this mod without dremel.

[@yubos98]

So...I ordered myself some DT 770 Pros and while I'm waiting I decided to watch some videos (I just want those headphones to arrive...even thought of borrowing my friend's DTs for now as he's not recording right now LoL) and I stumbled upon yours. Thing is, I have a pair of Sennheiser HD429s which I hold dear and which I modded for a removable cable but with a simple 3.5 mm jack. It wasn't the best of mods due to how loose the mini-jack connection is. But this...this gave me an idea. I immediately ordered a mini XLR port and connector from AliExpress along with a new set of earpads and a headband for my Sennheisers. I know I won't be listening to those Sennheisers too much anyore but I can't pass up on a $5 mod and a possibility to restore my beloved old Sennies. Thanks, man.

[@patsponkmeyer4407]

Hi Wheezy, thanx for the great and informative video! Thanx to your video, I was able to do this on my DT880s

[@alphamarshan]

Great job! Quick question, I'm not very industriously inclined: 4:13 - how did you know which wire is which? I see the numbers but I'm not sure what exactly you were looking for here.

[@WheezyTech]

I was checking the connection between each pole on the headphone jack and the three wires where they connect to the driver. I had the multimeter set to beep when a circuit is completed. You can't really hear it on video but the multimeter beeps when I have connected the pole of the jack to the correct wire, that way I know which connection on the driver corresponds to which pole on the jack.

[@TomasLomba]

The multimeter has a continuity function that emits a high pitched beep when you touch both ends of a wire.

[@MeneGR]

If you cut the original cable further down, after the strain relief, would you be able to pull the wires from that, so that you wouldn't need to desolder them from the driver?

[@sokoloft3]

Not certain if you did or not but. You should tin the driver pads themselves before you attempt to solder anything to them. Since its likely lead free. Add some 60/40 to it and it'll mix and lower the melting temp making for a better connection. Less likely to be a cold joint or crack in the future.

[@ondrejcarda]

Nice video, but what about the sound quality after this mod? You´ve put quite a lot of new material inside the housing, so the acoustics of the inner space must be slightly different now. And cutting off the plastic "bridge" from the central ring can also affect stability/vibration. Do you have some comparison with the original unmodded DT 770? Thanks!

[@Grom84]

thanks for the closeup shots, those tiny wires are nasty to deal with)

[@patrikmedia]

I wonder, can't you just cut off the existing wire long enough and solder the new mini xlr connector to the already attached wire litz? so you would never actually have to solder on the driver itself? I don't think that should be a problem other than you no longer can twist the connector in, but only push.

[@nielsvandenbroek8700]

Isn't it more usefull to put a 3.5 mm audio connector in the headphones? By doing so it can be used with a v-moda boompro. Or are mini xlr connectors better quality?

[@gankus_aurelius4518]

I'm curious as well

[@Antares-dw9iv]

For those purposes it would make more sense and at the end of the day a connector is a connector and shouldn't impact sound, although you could potentially get a balanced mini xlr with 4 pins, which can impact the sound on some headphones for the better or worse or not at all. If you don't need a mic however mini xlr is a quite a bit sturdier and the fact that it locks in place can be quite handy, I find them a bit easier to work with and it's a bit more commonly used at least on mid range and high end headphones, so if you own multiple headphones switching is probably gonna be more convenient to switch headphones. Honestly, I think none of these differences are that significant and it mainly comes down to personal preference.

[@elitehulk431]

Thats dope, u're pro man

[@Antares-dw9iv]

Out of curiosity wouldn't it be much easier to just cut the original cable off at a point further away from the driver and just remove the insulation, that way you could reuse the cable and avoid soldering on the pcb, seeing as that is pretty much the only part where things could go seriously wrong. I think I did it that way on my DT 880s but that was a really long time ago and I sold them since, so I am not sure anymore.

[@Xiefux]

im planning to do this too. i'll also put in a 3.5mm jack along with mini xlr for the microphone. idk how easy it would be to drill a new hole in it for that

[@cdbtheclaw]

After 3 years since I last commented, the day seems to have finally come. It sounds like the connector of my headphones is dead, probably a cable got loose inside. I am currently ordering all the parts and a soldering iron. I will go with the Rean RT3 MPR connector though since I will be able to mount that after the soldering is done. Wish me luck.

[@bickybickford]

I just found your channel and I see you haven't posted for some time now. I how you will start to post again.

[@batt3ryac1d]

Dude I get similar shakes when doing really delicate stuff I swear its a nervous anxious thing lol.

[@WheezyTech]

Yeah this. Get all prepped, got all the tools laid out, know exactly what I'm doing, feel confident. Picks up the soldering iron.... Oh god I cant stop shaking XD

[@p3chv0gel22]

Ahhhhhhhhhh I want this in my 770s. The non-removable cables is the biggest issue of these headphones. But I'm scared. I guess, i will do it, once i'm out of warranty and my cable inevitably breaks... :D

[@MrSongib]

I just yanked my cable, now this is an option to do some mod. ty

[@leeloodog]

The only reason the headphone is sold this way is market segmentation. I wish there were more good options in closed back headphone. I have these too i hate it.

[@Drinkyoghurt]

I really don't get why Beyerdynamic doesn't have mini XLR cables on all of its headphones. Every reviewer mentions it as a negative and I was considering other headphones with detachable cables just because of that feature. The only reason I went with a DT990 is because it sounded so much better than those other headphones. They know how to do it but they don't on the cheaper models.

[@loganchow]

I really liked this Mod and thinking of doing the same with my DT 990 since my right driver keeps cutting out whenever the main cable going into the headphones moves, so hopefully doing this mod will fix the issue! I don't want to discard a good pair of headphones or get new ones when I can just fix my currents ones. But I have a couple of questions.. What was the gauge on the wire you used between the miniXLR connector and the driver? and, was it a single core or strands wire? I would really appreciate any suggestions!

[@resotek]

Great video! I might have missed it, but can you tell and/or link the cable you're using to connect up these headphones. I'm struggling to find a nice coiled cable like you were using in the video. Thanks!

[@hovermotion]

Cool great mod, that's the only thing that puts me off buying these headphones everything is easy replaceable except the hard wired cable...

[@akosiniroh]

despite of we cannkt remove the cable see default, its good to know that there is a retention to it, may be as a protection in case accident happen. nice mod btw. great info in case i need to mod mine.

[@StarmanDX]

I like these headphones and am not one to really shy away from DIY work like this, but I don't know if it's worth the effort for me instead of just buying a different pair of headphones that doesn't have such a ridiculously long cable built into it

[@paulmyfinger]

I bet that "Dremel" is from Lidl :-)

[@Argentuza]

Very delicate surgery, it would be easy to break the headphone, I have another idea, just cut the built-in cable for your favorite length and resolder the cable tip, is not as elegant and versatile as your solution is but it would be extremely easy to perform, what do you think?

[@Beetletreuse]

Hey Wheezy, could you update your video description with the sizing/exact type of the miniXLR you used? Unfortunately the link posted no longer goes to a product on the website. They still have XLR's listed but they are tiny XLR etc now.... not mini. Not sure if tiny and mini are considered the same size by Rean or if these newer XLR connectors are smaller than the ones you used. I'm looking into getting myself a pair of 770 pro 32's at some point and really would like to do this mod, but I want to make sure I can still get the correct XLR connectors before investing in these cans. Thanks in advance if you're able to do this ^^

[@thedoodler882]

awesome vid thanks for making the effort!

[@tamasgal_com]

The PVC isolated wires are pretty heavy compared to the original coated ones, so you alter the oscillation behaviour of the membrane. You should have used the original ones, there is a reason why such wires are utilised in speakers.

[@WheezyTech]

This is wrong. These wires connect between the driver and the connector. They have nothing to do with the voice coil or the diaphragm. If you believe that by being attached to the driver they will somehow alter the way the voice coil moves then this should really the very least of your concerns. I've already added a chunk of metal in the XLR connector, cut away some of the plastic ring, drilled a larger hole... The driver is not in such a delicate balance that replacing these wires makes any difference at all. What's more this is a cheap pair of headphones with all the unit variances that comes along with it, and huge changes in sound that occur due to earpad wear over time that would hugely significantly outweigh anything that this mod would do on its own. Its totally a non-issue.

[@tamasgal_com]

@@WheezyTech What I have written is not “wrong”, it’s a fact. Whether it’s a real issue or not is a matter of quantifying it and then setting a threshold, which is is debatable. Regarding its impact compared to the other changes you made is yet another topic. Without any measurements you cannot say much about it, but in my opinion it would have been a better decision to try to keep the original construction design of lightweight wires. In any case, what I have written is not “wrong”, you just disagree that it matters, without any proofs or measurements. Let me add that I really appreciate your thrive to improve the design and sharing it with the world though, so apologies if my criticism reflected the opposite.

[@martinalexander36]

Thank you for this awesome tutorial!

[@parasiteunit]

Watched this a few times. There's one replacement I would be inclined to make. Use a powered screwdriver and a hex fit drill bit to make the hole in the casing. The reason is two fold - firstly the drill is going much slower than a rotary tool. So you're cutting rather than melting. Melting plastic is awful stuff to inhale and it gets everywhere. Even if it's cold - a small bit of plastic in the eye is awful (I work with plastic, ergo eye protection pretty much mandatory). Secondly, you can get a drill to the correct size, so it matches the new connector.

[@foot2theballs]

The only problem with a drill bit is that it’s really difficult to be precise if you’re widening an existing hole. If you wanted to avoid melting plastic in this particular case, I would probably opt for using a file or rasp

[@Emira_75]

love your channel, instant sub

[@Akimbo.mp4]

Is there a mini XLR Bluetooth receiver out there? Would be nice to use these on the go without bringing a long-ass cable

[@pedromaspiazu]

Nice! can you use a balanced cable with this wiring?

[@WhaleTPK]

Those joints looked a little on the cold side... but thanks for the video! Giving me some good ideas for my 'phones.

[@blownupdogsify]

When you used the multimeter to check what where you looking for as I just saw random numbers or maybe I wasn’t paying attention

[@sinom]

So I've opened up my pair, because one cup stopped working, and noticed that one of the voice coil wires got disconnected somehow. Am I just able to resolder them, or might I break something because of the heat? Edit: was able to solder them back on pretty easily and they work, so doesn't seem like there's a problem. I haven't actually soldered anything in probably half a decade, so if even I was able to do it, someone who solders a few times a year should also be able to do it. And since it was already open I now also made the cable removable. Pretty nice.

[@mikethemusicman1978]

I've never even thought about doing this, although saying that I'm terrible at soldering, I think i'll just leave mine as they are, I'm in need of some headphone sliders cos the ones they come with are flimsy as anything, i've glued them twice already.

[@mnazas2299]

Thanks for the vid planning on doing it if they brake

[@mustardbeard170]

Do you recommend buying an offbrand cable from amazon, or should I buy a replacement cable straight from Beyerdynamic?

[@deathtrooper0820]

You could have also used the XLR connector from Beyerdynamic. The sell them

[@chocolatedark6884]

hi wheezy, what cable is that? I want to mod my dt770pro too.

[@Primo7915]

Wouldn't it be easier to leave the wires coming from the speaker and solder them to the connector?

[@beethekay]

Hey, just stumbled upon your video. Did you make the video for the standard cable? If not, I guess, you just have to wire it up directly to a male part. with no special thing in between. right?

[@fjrsm]

Thank you very much for the video! Great stuff. I had a question to you or to anyone who's tried this method. Does the cutting of the plastic collar induce any sort of rumble or change in any way the characteristics of the headphone in its original condition? Thank you very much in advance.

[@beestingza]

Is there a reason you prefer XLR to 3.5 mm, or is it a question of fitment?

[@PartySpock]

It would kost me ton,s of sweat to do this. nice video. thank you

[@lands1459]

just got some DT770/32s, don't plan on doing this mod but its good information in case the cable ever does break so i know what i'm dealing with. a little sketched with how far the 3.5mm plug sticks out and im scared ill accidentally bend it

[@BF3blackstar2e]

Maybe a stupid question. I also checked my cables with the multimeter and it beeped in every combination of cables and plug connectors. Is it the one with the highest value?

[@emmettmartin2639]

You should be checking for continuity so when you are shorting the two ends it beeps.

[@phillipnunya6793]

Adding a metal cylinder and several long wires into the cup behind the driver probably changes the sound a bit. It would be nice if you did a basic baseline frequency response test before and after working on headphones to get an idea of the results and any needed changes. It may alter resonances, which are difficult to test for with easy traditional methods.

[@WheezyTech]

Its not as big a deal as it might seem. You are replacing cables with cables, a rubber cable and clamp with a metal tube so its not like you are adding something completely new. But yes it is more bulky and it is possible it would affect the sound in some slight way. Although its clearly audibly unnoticeable. The main thing to consider is that the DT770 is far from perfect to begin with. There can be quite a lot of unit variance as well as a considerable shift in frequency response as the pads wear. I would say if you are at all worried about the mod changing the FR then that's the least of your concerns with this headphone.

[@jcc1660]

4:26 how do you know which wire matches which bit of the cable end, using the voltmeter?

[@El_Maximo_Grande]

May i ask what cable you are using? also the page for the connectors no longer works

[@generalmisery]

It gets much easier if you remove the headband, then you can actually disconnect the adjustment for the ear cups and basically have a separated cup.

[@joshuafraser6027]

I understand the clean look of connection in cup, but would cutting the wire outside the cup and soldering on whichever connection you desire be easier/ just as effective??

[@doomkid360]

I've been wanting to do something like this so bad, but I'm scared to mess it up, is there anything I can do that could maybe get me warmed up to something like this?

[@gankus_aurelius4518]

Buy cheap headsets and frankenstein things to them

[@grantgames4637]

So why did you choose to use mini XLR instead of 3.5mm headphone Jack? I’m trying to do this as well but not sure which connector to use

[@rajZ772]

Does it also require a JCB and a Drilling machine.

[@thehandseesall]

This is like going to the dentist

[@danochez1]

Hey Wheezy!, could you do a video of this, but with a 4 pole connector for a gaming headset?

[@fortyinch]

You can even put a Bluetooth receiver. Hmmmm. Seems like a fun project.

[@patrikmedia]

The link to the Mini XLR connector doesn't work, can you please confirm it's the model number RT3MP by Rean or update the link? Thanks! Awesome video

[@ambuj.k]

Is there a way to do this mod without the dremel tool?

[@foot2theballs]

Two years late to the party haha, but I bought my DT770s years ago, and the drivers don’t have that circuit board. Will this mod still work for me?

[@dabbler77]

Great video. Im in the same situation as i guess you are - i have AKG headphones with a selection of nice DIY custom cables - all mini XLR. I needed some closed back phones so got a pair of 770 250ohm a couple of days ago. I too am going to convert mine to mini XLR, which brand connector did you buy? Nice vid - thanks!

[@WheezyTech]

I think they were Rean "Tiny XLR" (mini XLR) connectors.

[@blkmike1818]

great video gonna try it

[@StalkingYerM0m]

Hey man, what do you recommend to use for the female xlr connector? I'm thinking of reusing a cable I have.

[@mC_DiDiDiDiDi]

Great job, you inspired me to do the same.