Willys Engine Heat Riser Problems, Problems, and A Fix !!

In this video I am going to show you some problems with the heat riser on Willys and many other engines. Watch them work properly and not work at all. How to test and fix any problems and have a perfectly working system.

[@hillbilly5b72]

As always, you Sir are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks so much for sharing!

[@metalshaperJeep]

Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.

[@Sapper621]

The videos are always great! Learn a lot from your posts and refer others to watch and learn as well! Thank you and keep posting them!

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad you enjoy them and thanks for passing along my info for others.

[@RADIOACTIVEMASCULINITY]

This kind of knowledge is priceless, as always thank you for sharing!

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@carringtonbarrs2529]

Great explanation with a visual. I'm gonna check mine tomorrow first thing, start it up and see if the weighted arm moves as you explain that it should. With the help of all your videos my CJ3 sure runs better! Thanks, Brian!

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad I could help with information and tips for your CJ3A. Always good to have all systems working, check it out and see if it is free and moves properly.

[@Iceaxehikes]

Thanks for this video. I went out and checked my heat riser and the spring was on the wrong side of the tab. Correct spring, it just had nothing to push against. Moved the spring to the top of the tab and my heat riser is functional again.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad it helped

[@geoben427]

Hi Brian. Great information. Always learn something when I watch one of your videos! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Hello George, glad you enjoy the videos. If you take all the little things on a jeep and get them wrong it makes a big difference. I am trying to help folks get all systems working and their vehicles acting and driving like they are supposed to.

[@453421abcdefg12345]

A very informative tutorial, this failure to open is a very big problem with modern fuels, they at the limit of evaporation in a Jeep carburettor even when the flap works correctly, with an increase in carburettor temperature fuel evaporation is a certain problem, many thanks for posting this video Brain! Stay safe Chris B.

[@davidtully8130]

thanks for the info. excellent instruction. had the same problem with my new spring on my m38 with l134. been down the same paths as you noted replaced new carbs with no good results. regards.

[@johnqpublic9074]

Great advice as usual. Was brought up on the 2a page a while back, but great to have the visual. Tnx Brian.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@sir_bertimus1547]

Thanks so much for explaining all this. I have a feeling mine is frozen in the open position and now I know how to repair it.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad it helped

[@PeterHatton-nm6rn]

Thanks for this. I learned something new today.

[@nieuportflyer]

Excellent demo!

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad you liked it!

[@1128Triton]

Great video! I got mine fixed after who knows how long. Great tip on the washer between the arm

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad it helped!

[@Swetzikan]

Thank you very much for sharing this!!

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad you liked it!

[@sithinstructor]

Great knowledge, thank you. I appreciate you.... and as always FOCUS! 😄

[@metalshaperJeep]

Thanks. Still trying to do the work and film it, one day I hope to have someone running the camera for me and keep things in focus

[@bearsrodshop7067]

Thx for info and video, I would have overlooked and not have checked mine,,,thx buddy, well explained and will save all us with older jeep a lot of grief. Bear

[@wlogue]

Good info there bud, thanks.

[@metalshaperJeep]

No problem 👍

[@jackcollins2344]

Thanks Brian, this video is very helpful, and I'm sure I will put it to use in the future.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Remember to check everything when using non original parts and your projects will go smoother.

[@jackcollins2344]

@@metalshaperJeep I will thanks for your advice.

[@rayganter8029]

Brian, thanks again, again and again

[@metalshaperJeep]

My pleasure!

[@sl65amg08]

Thanks for the informative video. I just had my L134 engine rebuilt and new radiator put in and all appeared Ok for the short drives around the block. Yesterday I took it to a local show and took the long way home over the mountain. All was going well until near the top and I started loosing power and the jeep began back firing and finally just shut down near the top. Temp guage was showing 220 so I just parked it. Engine cranked but would not fire. When it cooled to about 140 I got it to restart and took the short cut home (down the mountain). I found several explanations about heat riser problems but no videos until yours today. Immediately it all made sense, my flapper is stuck in the closed position. Why? Because because the mechanic that assembled the engine never put the spring stop back on. So when the spring heated up in had nothing to push agains to open the flapper to send out the heat through the exhaust. I ordered a new spring stop so hopefully this will solve my overheating issue

[@jimhoran5445]

Very interesting!

[@metalshaperJeep]

Always good to have you watching.

[@ronron8406]

Thanks!

[@darlenegraham6408]

I bought a new intake and exhaust manifold set and just adjusted the arm so the flapper is always up (open). It starts up on half choke with two pumps and only takes a couple of minutes to warm up. I haven't used it in real cold weather yet so it could be a problem like I have it. I'm going to check the spring out now... thanks for this tip.

[@metalshaperJeep]

If you live in a warm climate that setup will work fine. Gets pretty cold in my area so nice to be able to warm up the intake air upon startup.

[@darlenegraham6408]

@@metalshaperJeep central Texas... pretty mild and short winters

[@jamesstone7689]

Thanks that thing has been wrecking my head

[@metalshaperJeep]

glad the video helped. Just give a check with a heat gun to make sure your spring in on correctly and you will be fine.

[@johnherbert4565]

Hi Brian, thanks for this info. I saw this video, checked my weighted arm mobility, while assembled, and I couldn't induce movement. I am wondering if I should assume the flapper or shaft of the heat riser is rusted and frozen? When testing this while all assembled,, there should be freedom of movement, right? This jeep had sat for 15 years before I bought it.

[@metalshaperJeep]

yes it should move around easily.

[@TRURYDAZ806]

I have a 86 Buick regal with the 307 in it. I rebuilt the whole motor and it should run like a chip but it seems to not have any power. There's the same style valve on the drivers side manifold the likes like it is suppose to have a vacuum like to it. I'm guess that's gonna be my issue on why it's not running right.

[@Ka3Ty]

Mine comes with a story. I was at a friends house and looked down and saw this banjo shaped heavy item on the side of the road.. Hmm I asked a few neighbors if they lost it, then I realized it was from my jeep. I didn't know it needed the washer added to turn the shaft, and maybe it'll help to keep it fastened to the shaft as well, but there isn't much room for the spring, heat shield and the weight. Any suggestions how to get it to stay on better?

[@sixinarow1]

Great tip. But it makes me wonder if the manufacturers designed these to put the weight on the inboard side, so the weight opens the flap like chevy did and the spring closes the valve. That way if it sticks, it sticks open.

[@phemmeke]

Not sure the spring would heat up enough that way. But I bet someone has the answer. Lol

[@sixinarow1]

@@phemmeke I would have to look (I would have to find one first) at a Chevy small block, but I think that is the way they work.

[@metalshaperJeep]

These were designed from the beginning to work the way I showed in the video and have been causing problems for many years.

[@sixinarow1]

@@metalshaperJeep Yes I realize this, the old Japanese man that taught me the trade when I was in High School in the early 70s was the Jeep guy in our town. My point was, maybe someone was thinking outside the box. I just went out to my shop and took a look at an old 270 GMC manifold I have and the way it works, the spring pulls it closed cold and as it warms up the spring releases and the weight opens the flapper.

[@edstransitscott9186]

Brian, Mine is all there, but seized up, anyway to heat it up, or will I have to remove it First ? Thanks. I hate to do damage to engine, But it is stuck open, Thanks for all you do

[@metalshaperJeep]

you can start putting penetrating oil on it and gently tap it and sometimes they will free up. Also you can try running engine to warm things up and try to get some lube in there and free it up by hand.

[@edstransitscott9186]

metalshaper I will try that , thanks Brian

[@tomkrause62]

Mines gone and the shaft holes are welded shut.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Better that way than blocked off. Cold starts might be a problem but that goes away quickly.

[@sararogers4429]

How do I contact you guys? I am needing a new block for my 1945 Willy’s Jeep.

[@metalshaperJeep]

[e-mail] Brian

[@lynneades4632]

Good stuff, but you missed the bit about setting up the relative angles of the slot and the plate. Thanks all the same.

[@metalshaperJeep]

I try to give the best information out there but at the same time if you are trying to do this kind of work you have to learn to think on your own a little bit.

[@edstransitscott9186]

Mine has been stuck open !

[@metalshaperJeep]

They can be a real nuisance either way depending on where you live and the temperature you are operating in.

[@ronmaher6257]

I think your videos could use a little better lighting

[@metalshaperJeep]

It would be great to have some portable, adjustable photography lights, feel free to send me a bunch of them so the videos will come out to your liking.

[@tomkrause62]

Like a LOT of people and things these days, 'tis just not wound right.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Perfectly said, thanks for watching