WWII Japanese Type 30 Arisaka Bayonet Active Rust Removal Cleaning

Cleaning the active brown rust from the scabbard and hilt for a Type 30 Japanese rifle bayonet

[@MrFlyinghellfish]

For anyone planning on restoring their own bayonet, DON’T do what this guy just did.

[@shawnko1241]

Your bayonet seems manufactured by Kokura arsenal to me: 1. serial numbers from Koishikawa arsenal ranges from 0 to 2,029,000 (prior to 1936), where Kokura arsenal follows after that (1936-1945). Your serial is 7 digit and starts with 3 on pommel. 2. Kokura arsenal uses the exact same marking as Koishikawa because Kokura is basically the rebuilt Koshikawa arsenal after the Great Kento earthquake, but Kokura arsenal stopped stamping Kanji inspection mark under arsenal mark to simplify the manufacturing. 3. Inspector marks are stamped on pommel.

[@BobHudsonVideo]

Thanks for that information: As I said on the video I did not know exactly which arsenal it was

[@joelopezjl28]

That made me cringe. You would have saved a little bit more value honestly if you steamed it or boiled it to convert the rust

[@davestelling]

For your frog, the stiff/hardened leather - doing conservation work on leather, animal hide book covers, etc. I use the product call "Pecards," the "Antique Leather" type. Lightly applied with your fingers over a course of days - you might find some satisfactory results. I'm currently using it on the brass wire wrapped leather grip on an 1864 light cavalry sabre where the leather has dried... it's otherwise in very good condition. After several light applications the leather should be maintained for a very long time. Some of their products also will not "Darken" leather like mink oil, neatsfoot, & so on...

[@davestelling]

P.S. Have you ever tried "Nevr Dull," wadding - or even "Flitz" with the GREY colored grade of Scotch Brite for light rust/discoloration on a blade? (Red, or active rust, that is - and not the "Black" rust.) Enjoyed watching, thanks and take care...

[@Brett3117]

You should have boiled the scabbard before hitting it with the scotchbrite. This converts the red rust to a black oxide (blued) finish. The end result would have been much nicer...

[@eshlay8992]

Hey do you know of any way to clean the inside of the sheath without damaging it?

[@TOMAS-lh4er]

Is there anyplace that I can get a FROG for my even reproductions ?bayonet,

[@davestelling]

Have you tried "C.C. Sutlery," and some of the others like "Fall Creek" online? There's always eBay, too (?)

[@Lleesstreett]

the strongest blade i’ve ever held i chopped small trees down with it and it only made it stronger lol

[@ahmet42selim65]

so what do u use as a protectant if wd 40 isnt

[@nakaji899]

オリジナルの状態が損なわれてますね。残念です。

[@tomm.7632]

Hi Bob hanging out with Harris watching your videos

[@ArchieKeen1]

I have a ww1 Gewher 98 bayonet, the button is rusted shut, do yo know of any ways to loosen it? Thanks

[@BobHudsonVideo]

Put some light oil or WD 40 on it, and then give a little tap on the button: I'd use a piece of wood to hit, maybe even give the wood a little wack with a hammer. It shouldn't take much force to loosen it, and the wood is not going to damage the metal.

[@ArchieKeen1]

BobHudsonVideo thank you! I will try that

[@BobHudsonVideo]

I will also add that at 3:25 in the above video, I used a rubber mallet to tap on a stuck piece on the scabbard.

[@spider6482]

This is exactly what I needed to see.

[@ahagelin3025]

Can you advise what rotary tool you used? Dremel? I have a Krag bayonet that has a lot of surface rust on the scabbard and I was wondering about a bench polisher ?

[@BobHudsonVideo]

I use a Harbor Freight dremel-type tool at slow speed.

[@nakaji899]

ホルダーも末期型で銃剣とマッチしていません。

[@stang3787]

be sure to check out kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKbciHmtaJuobs0