XClutch twin plate clutch kit for the Legnum VR4.

[@Zaino14Gaming]

Another awesome video, looking forward to the install vid. I just ordered a new clutch kit from TME for my manual conversion

[@KiwiKartel]

Thanks for the info Kal

[@laughsandwich3842]

I have a twin plate in my vr4 and for some reason when I changed the clutch plates in it for maintenance reasons it just stopped rattling and to be honest I was concerned that I did it wrong some how..the clutch is a Cusco evo twin plate clutch

[@laughsandwich3842]

But I have another question you’re the only guy I know I can ask..I’ve searched forums and can’t find the procedure…but I have a vr4 conversion that had a two button remote with the auto windows and all that..the original chassis is a PFL but its an import from Singapore so I’m surprised as a pfl it has the two button remote but I’ve just added that as a just incase that info is of any help..the real issue is I lost that key several years ago and have been since using a regular spare key with no buttons on it..and i recently acquired a key from a donor vr4 I bought..same two button remote as before..how can I programme that new key to use it’s buttons to get back my keyless features and is it even possible..I have not seen the thread on ozvr4 and I have really searched

[@KaldekBoch]

I just happen to be working directly with the guy who knows exactly how this all works. We have a Wiki page at OZVR4 now (www.ozvr4.com/wiki/index.php/ETACS) and if you post about this on the forum asking the user named BCX about the problem, we can probably come to a solution.

[@KaldekBoch]

We've just updated the Wiki with these instructions. Can you please follow them and validate it works? www.ozvr4.com/wiki/index.php/Programming_Keys

[@laughsandwich3842]

@@KaldekBoch okay so I can’t confirm the actual key programming steps because my key seems to be dead but as for the getting it into programming mode I never got my engine light to flash and I found that for me at least the 1 second interval between Turning the key was too long and also it did not matter whether the door was open or closed…now the thing is like I said I can’t confirm actually pairing a key but as for getting it into program mode (getting the locks to cycle between locked and unlocked) these are the steps that worked specifically for me. 1. Connect 1 of the ports to be bridged. 2. Insert key and leave in off position 3. Bridge ports 4. Cycle between ACC and OFF 3 times with no delay in between clicks..essentially as quickly as you turn the key one direction you can turn it back in the other. It doesn’t need to be done at a blisteringly quick rate…but essentially just needs to be emphasized that there doesn’t need to be a waiting time in either the acc or the off postion. My radio never even had the chance to light up. Well after those steps in my car at least the locks cycled and I assumed I was in programming mode…like I said I can’t actually confirm because I want to check the remote ..but that’s what worked for me..if you need I can do a video and send it for you showing you what I did and how it worked and all that it would not be a problem just for reference or information for you guys. And again just for added information my car chassis is a 2000 galant Singapore model EA2A with a vr4 conversion but the original chassis came with the two button remote and all that it wasn’t a swap over from the vr4 . Hope this information helps in some way let me know if you need anything else

[@KaldekBoch]

@@laughsandwich3842 thanks mate I've updated the Wiki. There were too many steps we copied from an original guide.

[@laughsandwich3842]

@@KaldekBoch alright so I managed to get it coded and yh the updated steps seem to be more or less the procedure so thanks alot for the help