YET ANOTHER Kenmore 80 Series Washer! Part 2 - Disassembly

[@GigiMoney32]

Thanks guys! I thought I would never get my Kenmore 80 Series tub out. But using your towel/hammer (rubber mallet in my case) trick, I was able to finally get it out. First it wouldn't lift at all. Then after a little banging, I could lift it but only an inch or two. After some more banging and a few massive tugs on that thing, I was finally able to break it free and get it out. The drive block came off with it as it appeared to be attached to the tub through lots of muck and corrosion - thus the reason it didn't just lift right out. I had to use a chisel to knock it out. But I got all of the parts cleaned up and back together again. Thank you again for sharing!

[@jaykay18]

You're welcome!

[@biggysmoovemusic7777]

May these washers never go extinct

[@jaykay18]

In my hands, they won't.

[@biggysmoovemusic7777]

jaykay18 yesss

[@dynatrak]

I love how the entire cabinet comes off in one piece, for easy service.

[@jaykay18]

Yeah, that is rather handy, that you can just walk the entire cabinet off.

[@shaunkanary997]

The thing that really impresses me is how EASY it is to take it apart! As i am taking it apart putting back together I'm saying : "It can't be this easy i must have missed something."

[@jaykay18]

Not only were these machines well-designed to never break, when they do and need service, they were designed with serviceability in mind as well!

[@petermaz701]

It’s in good hands with you. I’m looking forward to the next steps.

[@jaykay18]

Well, there's a bit more to the story...which will be uncovered as the series goes on.

[@NickNembus]

You deserve so many more likes for the Towel + Hammer trick. It saved me from trying other more complicated/risky looking methods. Thanks a bunch.

[@jaykay18]

No problem. When you devise methods using common items found around the home, it definitely installs a "can-do" attitude.

[@danigrumbles520]

I'm terrified I'm going to damage something more with this method. I honestly feel better removing the transmission. We don't have funds to replace the transmission, much less the washer. :-(

[@NickNembus]

@@danigrumbles520 I got mine for $100 used and was cleaning it all out so had to remove it and was less concerned. It came off very easily after giving it a few wacks with the towel/hammer around the drum. What was holding it stuck in place was just dirt/grime built up over a long time of use from the previous owner. Normally you just pull it right off and out, but if rusty it could be stuck requiring you to use force to remove it somehow. The other methods seemed trickier and more likely to bend/damage things IMO. I think all you're risking with this method is a dented drum if not gental enough, which probably won't affect it running anyways.

[@danigrumbles520]

@@NickNembus ​ Do I not risk damaging the drive shaft or transmission?

[@NickNembus]

@@danigrumbles520 Unless you use an extreme amount of force very doubtful. Normally there could be hard/heavy object bouncing around your tub anyways and I they have springs and things bracing all the components under it. The only difference is you're knocking the sides while the retaining parts at the top are removed. Not a pro tho this is just my personal view of the matter.

[@khalilt6508]

I haven’t watched the full video yet but I already know it will be a great one!

[@jaykay18]

Let me know for certain once you have.

[@jacobflanigan6343]

Can't wait for Saturday. The Kenmore direct drive will work good as new after the maintenance.

[@jaykay18]

The series goes on a lot further than that!

[@jacobflanigan6343]

@@jaykay18 Wow!!! It is a huge project for the direct drive!!! Now I can't wait for Saturdays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays. My parents used to have a Kenmore 80 series washer and dryer when we used to live in Delaware. When we moved to Florida in 2008, the direct-drive was still in Delaware for the new owners to use. I love that washer a lot. I love the sounds of agitation, neutral drain, and spin. It is a 3-speed motor.

[@jaykay18]

@@jacobflanigan6343 That was a top-end model with the 3-speed motor. Most were 2-speed.

[@DSL273]

Does this video end with the other guy saying, "I gotta take a shit." then "Wonderful" hahaha

[@jaykay18]

No, it didn't end like that. There's more to this series.

[@DSL273]

@@jaykay18 Oh I know theres more. Just funny it sounded like that and then abruptly stopped like you were bothered lol. Thank you for the video. Our kenmore tub is coming out tonight!

[@jaykay18]

@@DSL273 You're welcome!

[@WasherBoy2016]

I remember once I spent two hours trying to get the tub out of a machine. The next hardest part is the under basket filter which appears that that one has. I got one off of a machine that was being throwing away among other parts. Have yet to put it on the wash basket of my direct drive. That under basket filter I think should be taken off and cleaned out once every few years to prevent the tub from rusting away to nothing and just to help keep it clean. I have videos of all that stuff waiting to be published

[@jaykay18]

I'd definitely like to see those videos. It wasn't easy taking that plastic filter off, in fact we ended up cracking it a little. Considering your machine is working fine without it--that's a good thing to keep in mind.

[@davejoseph5615]

My inner tub came out without a problem and without the hub part that was apparently rusted and stuck to yours at 12:10.

[@jaykay18]

Every machine is in different shape.

[@andrewg593]

Direct drives have to be the easiest machines to service. A little cleaning, new agitator dogs, and a neutral drain kit, and the machine will be like new. Probably would be a good idea to replace the clutch too. They don't usually last very long after the neutral drain fails. The other machine could benefit from those repairs too.

[@jaykay18]

Those parts have been ordered! The clutch is for the old machine, clutch in this one seems fine.

[@andrewg593]

@@jaykay18 Are you planning on replacing the neutral drain in the older machine too? I would probably still replace the clutch in this one for preventative maintenance.

[@jaykay18]

@@andrewg593 I got a neutral drain kit for the new one. The old one, I got a neutral drain kit, brake shoes, clutch, and a new tub nut since we screwed the old one up last time when we didn't have the tool.

[@andrewg593]

@@jaykay18 Awesome. Glad to hear these will be fixed up. Will be waiting patiently for the rest of the series.

[@jaykay18]

@@andrewg593 Great, thanks. This series will be a total of 9 parts (6 plus an additional 3-part series). Repairs will likely be performed in the next 2 weeks if I have my dates right.

[@shaunkanary997]

New drive block. 3 parts so far well worth it.

[@jaykay18]

Basket is driven just fine, most machines out there have never had their drive block replaced.

[@Leo68238]

Need a heavy duty mini sledge hammer to remove the center otherwise with a regular carpenter hammer be there forever

[@jaykay18]

That all depends on how hard you strike.

[@hughsnyder6967]

This is why my Washer won't go into spin mode. Because of all the gunk. I got it to turn by hand after a few turns it was jammed up with Gunk. Only thing is it only turns good in one direction I think I'll have to use gum out. For engine's to get it to turn the other way

[@jaykay18]

I'd like to hear if you can free it up.

[@motogp9253]

Thanks guys! Making my work that much easier! : )

[@jaykay18]

No problem.

[@persiancucumber9255]

"harbor fuked" 😂😂

[@jaykay18]

Yes. Some days, I'll say "Hazard Fraught", which works better in mixed company.

[@nl.515]

How people let their machines get so dirty, I'll never get it! My machine is actually getting a routine cleaning tomorrow as a matter of fact!

[@jaykay18]

I have no idea how you walk past that kind of dirt. Granted, my machines are a _little_ dirty. Not brown or black dirt like that, just need to be wiped down. It's time for me too. But time and again I see people neglect their machines as such. On machines like these, it's unsightly (not counting the inside), but not detrimental. On HE machines, they have unrecoverable error codes for that! As for the dirt inside, most people don't know--that's to start. Second, it's your own dirt, so it's not as bad to you.

[@nl.515]

It's terrible to see how some let their machines get, I remember ours being like that, and getting it cleaned was a hell of a task! But, it's all good now and it's taken care of nicely. Error code: I'm dirty, that means your water is dirty. Forget about replacing the filter screens, hoses, or solenoids, replace the entire house plumbing.

[@jaykay18]

@@nl.515 Replace your entire house plumbing, and me, your humble HE washing machine--oh wait, I don;t use your plumbing anyway!

[@nl.515]

The hoses and water spigots are just decorations when you own and HE machine! If you piss it off with too many error codes it'll actually call for water, and pulse the hoses till they burst!

[@jaykay18]

@@nl.515 Har har!

[@snixysnix]

Awesome video! What kind if tool is that you used to get in there and get the center bolt to ratchet out? Thanks!

[@jaykay18]

Thanks! Not sure which you mean, so here's both: The agitator itself is held on with a standard 7/16" bolt. Any wrench with a 7/16 socket (and enough of an extension to reach down far enough) will work. The tub nut requires a special "spanner wrench", and you use a small mallet to bang it. There are one-piece and two-piece wrenches out there, the 2-piece ones generally fit everything out there. The one you need has 4 small "protrusions" that stick out, that will grab the tub nut so it can be undone.

[@snixysnix]

@@jaykay18 thanks a million for responding so soon!

[@jaykay18]

@@snixysnix I make that a priority. That's something that sets my channel apart from those who can't ever be bothered to respond.

[@snixysnix]

Since I replaced the agitator dogs, it’s working great but now I have a small leak coming from the bottom, could this be because I didn’t reassemble the agitator properly? It seems like a coincidence in timing. put it back together wrong? I put newspaper down underneath, and it looks like the leak is coming from the center or front, not the back of the machine. Any help would be appreciated!

[@jaykay18]

@@snixysnix There's nothing to really put back together wrong, and there are no seals that you disturbed. Sometimes the leak occurs from the drain pump, either the pump itself starts leaking (uncommon) or the hose connections to it do. Sounds like a coincidence to me. I had an old GE washer before this that leaked from...everywhere. I lined the bottom of it with sponges. That did the trick until the transmission in that machine grenaded itself.

[@bub9549]

I have the Spanner wrench but my tub nut is not coming off so easy.

[@jaykay18]

It's never easy to get them off. Try some PB Blaster and soak it down every day for a week, then give it a shot.

[@whirlpoolz1200]

The Spin tube shaft seal (not the tub seal) appears like its on its way out, that might explain the oil on the transmission cover and clutch. (Seen in Xjoe81x’s vid on the neutral pack as well) sold as the bearing and seal kit, it requires a 1-1/8” socket to remove/ install. Only found out about these parts while diagnosing/ attempting to fix a machine for a friend. Ultimately we traded machine mechanisms( kenmore compact stackable direct drive units) and I fixed the one they gave me after some pounding with a 4 pound sledge and some 3 in 1 oil. What a pain in the ass to repair (machine was from 1995 ) so some patience is required... And unlike a certain KZbinr who apparently never tries anything , (Isaac24) I did some bloody research to make sure I wasn’t going insane and doing something stupid. Maybe I’m tooting my own horn too much, but I figured the knowledge might hopefully be useful.

[@jaykay18]

Thanks very much for the information!

[@whirlpoolz1200]

@@jaykay18 Anytime, I try to be helpful when possible.

[@shaunkanary997]

While your at it give it a new tub seal.

[@jaykay18]

If it doesn't leak, you don't disturb it. A lot of parts (replacement parts) are made in China, NOT TO EXACTING SPECIFICATIONS, but close, which could mean it will leak in very short order after replacing. The bridge is crossed when it's come to.

[@Sharkie626]

"Disconnect the washer from the wall owtlet"

[@jaykay18]

"Touch it in the back, the man said touch it!"

[@andrewg593]

"Open the controls panel".

[@dynatrak]

Sharkie626, I read your comment in his accent!

[@jaykay18]

@@andrewg593 I was going to say that, but I couldn't resist a line from The Jerky Boys. It's in the prescription, though!

[@jeng494]

Sharkie626 I love that guy! I could hear him speaking, accent and all, while reading your comment. Thanks for the laugh!

[@teriporterfield5536]

Thank you for these videos. 🙏🏻 I’ve managed to disassemble and clean my washer (except even with buying a spanner wrench, I couldn’t get the tub out 😩). But I want to run a cycle before I return the cover. What can I use to bypass the lid sensor thing? You used a ushaped thing. What can I use to make that, without frying the machine or myself? Thanks 😁

[@jaykay18]

The U-Shaped thing actually has a bit of a story. A friend of mine had just bought that house and wanted me to take a look at the washing machine. He was gutting the basement that was partially finished. Part of the scrap from the demolition was some coaxial cable. So I took a razor blade and fashioned that right quick. The center conductor of it stays fairly well insulated. However, the full motor current is passing through that wire, so it's not of a heavy enough gauge. Just enough to get by. Get yourself a piece of wire that is at least 16 gauge, preferably 14, strip the ends, and stick them in the connector. Don't touch it while it's on and you won't get fried. Don't let it touch anything on the machine while it's on and the machine won't get fried.

[@teriporterfield5536]

Thank you 😊

[@jaykay18]

@@teriporterfield5536 You're welcome.

[@DOLRED]

Just saw this video after doing this work in May on a same style Kenmore. I had to buy the spanner and while waiting on Amazon to deliver it, I sprayed the nut with Silicone Spray and BP Blaster. Doing this for a week but using as little solvent as possible. Did not know what to expect after first using a 3 pound hammer with a small chisel--nothing. Put the Amazon Spanner on the nut and wacked it and nut spun right off and the tub lifted right up--no effort. NO effort at all. Do NOT hammer on the Porcelain--you chipped it!!! The lesson learned on cars: Spray the joints and let the solvent do it's work--for days. REPEAT daily. Saves Mucho headaches. I also put a piece of cardboard under that wire bundle going to the control panel. It gets pinched. Took the basket and power washed it inside and out. Then we scrubbed the plastic tub. 28 years of crud gone !!!! What started this? A slow water flow from the Solenoid valves--they have screens that clog up. Soaked them in "Lime Away." All's well. Cheers. A Sewer Guy told me--"Spend $400 to fix that Kenmore washer before you buy that newer Electronic Crap!!" He's right.

[@jaykay18]

He was absolutely right. I say the same. I have 2 direct drive machines like this myself, and the only thing I've ever had to do was replace the agitator dogs. Twice. Spraying with solvent is a great idea if you have the time and can wait for it. Always makes the job easier. As the saying goes, the best things come to those who wait.

[@DOLRED]

@@jaykay18 Well, I admit I have as much patience as you, but Amazon does not hop right to it on delivery plus the brother in law lives by himself so he did not care to be without the machine for a week. The spanner is now in the drawer likely to never see daylight again. I'll be dead probably.

[@jaykay18]

@@DOLRED They do if you have Prime. Usually. It's also a "bargaining chip" with them if you have a problem with something you bought. The spanner is a great tool to have, if only for that one particular purpose. There are still plenty of these machines around. Parts are inexpensive and readily available as well. No reason to junk them, they wash better than anything they make today.

[@matthew_tran04]

At 0:32 I’m start saying those things with some guys I know we do fan video lol. You know we mean HAVE FUN!!

[@jaykay18]

Yes.

[@acoatl751]

Does all kenmore 80 series have the same transmission?

[@jaykay18]

Not necessarily. You have to look up your model number to get a parts list and part number for the transmission.

[@oldcarnocar]

oil filter wrench from "harbor f***ed" lmao

[@jaykay18]

Or Hazard Fraught...

[@toyota-eh3ub]

That washer looks like it’s in really good shape underneath all of that dirt. I can’t wait to see it all cleaned up! I didn’t see much, if any rust on it either. It’s crazy how “olded” on washer tubs get. I had to pull the tub out of an old stator-driven Cabrio I used to have. Took all of the bolts out, and pulled, and of course it wouldn’t budge. Thankfully I found a video on it that used a 2x4 and a car jack. Putting the jack on the shaft and the 2x4 on the top lip of the tub, then cranking the jack popped it right out. I’m not sure if it would work on a direct drive, but I thought it’d be an interesting story to share. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o2jVl6N8na6WjpI

[@jaykay18]

I watched that video, and indeed, it might be able to be adapted to a direct drive! That's a great tip. Otherwise, we got it out, really the same issue--these things get so olded on, that they don't want to budge. Same working on a car, really.

[@toyota-eh3ub]

Thanks very much! It seemed crazy to me, using a car jack on a washer, but it worked! It definitely reminds me of working on a car for sure. Years of rust, dirt, and grime make even the seemingly easy repairs hard.

[@jaykay18]

@@toyota-eh3ub You use whatever works. If a car jack is what works, you use it. Simple. What the guy said in the video is right, it's a simply physics problem, and he used leverage to solve it.

[@shaunkanary997]

That tub support does not look good. Buy one before they are all gone.

[@Sharkie626]

There are plenty left.

[@jaykay18]

I think it's fine. Machine is operating just fine besides slipping into spin and of course the agitator dogs.