Yihua 853A Preheater for Removing CPUs and BGAs

[@vswitchzero]

Great video. I’m planning to buy one soon to help with TSOP SDRAM chip removal on old video cards. It’s very possible with just hot air but feels like I’m blasting the cards with so much hot air for way too long to get them off. I’ve had some chips popcorn and think it’s just better for the card overall to preheat. Haven’t braved BGA work yet but could come in handy for that in the future too. Cheers!

[@blackhorserepairs]

yes, preheater will give you much better results, even a small one like this. You can also look into IR6500 rework station, gives you a bit more precision than hot air

[@chuckvoss9344]

Very good review for us. By watching this video you saved ALL OF US, one damaged board! Thanks for sharing.

[@nikolaskallianiotis8622]

These cheap preheaters are pretty much useless without further modifications. You actually need a probe that measures the temperature on the PCB surface close to the BGA which ideally should communicate with the temperature control of the preheater so to adjust the temperature to match the surface of the PCB and not the down side of the heater element. You can have a look at Tony's channel (NrothWestRepair) to see how he modified his own.

[@blackhorserepairs]

good point, thank you. I will look into modifying it or just getting a better one in the future. With thermal camera I can get a hint of the temperature so that will do for now. Yes I'm familiar with Tony's setup, I actually did not know he was using customized preheater (does not surprise me one bit :) ) I'll look into that, thank you so much!

[@MattFixesStuff]

Thanks for the video. I have the same one. I also want to do more experimenting with it ☺ I mostly blast the max 400 onto thick boards with it and then use around 350°C hot air. Works well so far, but the whole device becomes pretty hot. I was thinking about adding some handles. I also built a temperature probe from a temp sensor of an old coffee maker with 7 segment display from some old dvd player that is very useful to show you the pcb temp when you stick it to the pcb but your flir cam should do just fine as well. I think its a super useful device that has potential to be modded in many ways .

[@blackhorserepairs]

yeah, I have to mod it, it goes up to 280C and the board doesn't exceed 115C, we'll see how my new nozzle works but I'd like to put 180C on the board plus heating from the top

[@MattFixesStuff]

@@blackhorserepairs Yeah same here. The board gets to around 115C. May try to move the board closer to see if it gets any hotter. Still gotta figure out the best way. So far its possible to remove big BGA's and stuff with it and thats what I got it for.

[@blackhorserepairs]

@@MattFixesStuff removing the holder gets you another 15C, the highest temp is 280C (when set to 400)

[@MattFixesStuff]

@@blackhorserepairs I fixed a phone pcb yesterday that didnt get hot enough and put it directly on the heating element. works great.

[@chronocepter]

using good quality soldering flux may help to even and stabilize the temperature

[@blackhorserepairs]

that's right (it would be a lot more smoky though) :)

[@rectify2003]

Hi there - Could you pls point me to how to find the desolder sucker tool please? The orange one? Thanks

[@blackhorserepairs]

this is what I use, works great so far

[@blackhorserepairs]

www.ebay.com/itm/387279055557

[@rectify2003]

@@blackhorserepairs Thankyou

[@jeraldleung6009]

Seem you did not put Flux, some may melt properly

[@blackhorserepairs]

yeah, flux would make it easier but smoky :)

[@yaritebaba]

What is the brand and model of the fume extractor you have there?

[@blackhorserepairs]

Baoshishan, it's standard size and it circulates under many different names