Your First Engine Job - Spendin The Cash! Ordering Our Parts Online- What We Chose And Why

Our 4.0 Jeep engine has been stripped, inspected, honed and cleaned. Now it's time to start the reassembly process and that begins by putting in a parts order.
Here's the process we went through with a popular online parts retailer, what we ordered and what our total cost is so far.
#classiccar #autorepair #autoparts
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[@outlawbillionairez9780]

Next in the series should be inspection and measurements of NEW parts. Something every first timer will overlook. 👍

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Learned while employed at an engine shop, trust nothing even the fresh bore job for the engine you're rebuilding, measure it all. I never had an issue at the shop, but if I didn't measure things Murphys law said it would blow up in 10 seconds.

[@DougsterWolverineGarage]

Rule NO. 1 trust no MF!

[@drewbiedoobie1416]

i learned the hard way too. check everything. not just engine parts. got a radiator from amazon. didnt check it, just put it in... no bueno i know... i know... amazon was my first mistake

[@mikebrooka9395]

Learned lesson on thermostats. When replacing one, drop it in a pot of boiling water to see if it opens. Got bit on the haunches on one 318 4V police package Diplomat during a road test. Two more failed the boiling pot test on other jobs. Nick of Nick's Garage channel lost a client's 327 from the same. Several manufacturers were used so they were just flukes from mass production. On my end, no other engines were harmed in the making of this advice. Mikel

[@toejam503]

When ordering parts online, it's a good idea to have 2nd window open to research the full specs of the part you're looking to order. The parts websites don't always have the full specs. VOE

[@sometimesleela5947]

Exactly. One extra window for the manufacturer's page. One for reviews.

[@WaybackTECH]

The trick with Rock Auto is the shipping. Depending on the items, they can come from different warehouses making the shipping more expensive so changing the brand of parts can lead to coming from the same warehouse.

[@kellismith4329]

Yep, once you select all your parts you may have to dipsey doodle some of them and make different selections so that each part doesn’t ship from a different location

[@DanTheManIOM]

ever turn on the feature that says lowest cost or best shipping ? I have not, but you are right about watching where the parts ship from. And adding stuff changes that too.

[@kimokahikolekalihi]

What is nice is that they show you on the parts if it's coming from the same warehouse as the parts in your cart or not to make it easy to reduce the number of shipments and the time spent waiting on parts.

[@Bill_N_ATX]

I remember my first engine rebuild. This was back in the days of catalogs and phone calls. We didn’t even have fax machines. We certainly didn’t have FedEx or Amazon. It took weeks of research to decide what parts I wanted, then to call and make sure they’d all work together. Then you order, wait for the check to clear, and then finally ship. It was like Christmas when each order came in and waiting for that last important thing to arrive was torture. It sure seems easier today. Of course, my problem today would be budgeting everything. Sure it’s easy to search and research on the internet. And what good is overnight delivery if you can’t afford it and the credit card is full up to the limit? The struggle is real.

[@michaelstrafello7346]

Also the last part to come is Always the the one you need to start (Murphys law) lol

[@yehornaumov5893]

That exactly what happens

[@MikeBrown-ii3pt]

I remember all of that AND ordering parts C.O.D. (cash on delivery) because, when I did my first engine at age 15, I didn't have a checking account and, I certainly didn't have a credit card.

[@sackyhackMxO]

I bet the quality of the parts exceeded todays cheap stuff as well

[@Bill_N_ATX]

@@MikeBrown-ii3pt Exactly. I forgot all about COD. And having to get postal money orders because that’s all some vendors would trust. I remember my grandparents got a Mastercard and it made everything easier. It really was a very different world. A better one in many, many ways and worse in others.

[@trolllibtards2604]

I miss the old P-A-W speed parts catalog. I built my first Mopar 360 back in the late 80’s with parts from them.

[@MikeBrown-ii3pt]

Those catalogs were awesome! Roughly the same thickness as the big Sears seasonal catalogs and loaded with technical information about the parts sold. I always liked the names used for their engine kits too...Gorilla, Super Gorilla, I think there might even have been some called Godzilla.

[@catsaregovernmentspies]

I built a 350 Olds, a 350 Chevy, and a 400 Ford (F or M? I don't remember, it wasn't mine) with parts from PAW. Good times.

[@stevenbongiorno9277]

I love ordering online. I get excited waiting for them to come in, and opening up the boxes, feels like Christmas!!

[@sometimesleela5947]

Sorry to be gloom & doom, but too often then comes the crash when they shipped the wrong parts, the parts have been opened/installed before, etc and you realize what a pita it's going to be to repack and ship stuff back.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

It's about 1/3 of the fun.

[@dadalebreton184]

Im the buy local type as long as they dont rip you off. Like when my 60 foot walk Napa store is like my wharehouse. I need something. I walk there instead of filling my garage to much, unless i get a deal on anything, then i stock piles. But when i needed an alternator for my 66 pontiac and they priced it at 250$, i went online and got it for 80$. This is another excellent video. When you know what you need, you can shop different brands or stores. Compare prices and sometime wait less time then the local store when its back order. Ps. Sometime you get cheap or wrong parts and return is not as easy as walking back to store and swap it. Check the comments and return policies. If you need to pay to return, your not saving at all. Thanks UTG for sharing this content. Im sure some still are not familiar with shopping online and PayPal or giving there card numbers. Maybe consider using a prepaid card to be safe when your anxious about giving your credit card #. I actually shoped this morning for front struts and saved 40$ on partsavatar from rock auto. Deals changes everyday. Best community ever!

[@MikeBrown-ii3pt]

I also prefer to buy parts locally as long as there isn't a huge price difference. Electrical parts are the one thing that I flat refuse to buy online specifically because of the issues with online returns. If you're buying a starter, alternator or some sort of sensor, chances are you need it NOW and can't wait if you get the wrong one. On the note of stock replacement alternators and starters for older vehicles (like your Pontiac and my Square Body pickups), I don't get why they're so expensive these days. I assume it's because so many have been scrapped over the years rather than sent for "remanufacturing" but, with the prices they demand, I've taken to just buying new, high output alternators and high torque starters from Power Master and other manufacturers for roughly the same price.

[@camaro6810]

THANKD FOR THE WORK YOU DO UNCLE TONY! Nice to have honest instruction that isnt influenced by sponsors, ads etc. Appreciate it, you are really helping us viewers

[@3MonkeysGarage]

Making Rock Auto orders, watch where they are shipping from or you will end up with 5 shipping costs. You will save money getting them from one location, so check your list and maybe spend a dollar or two more on a part that moves it to the same warehouse as other parts. Then you get into receiving the wrong part. That's fun.

[@eyerollthereforeiam1709]

The process of choosing and ordering parts is not ridiculous, and nothing to ignore. Especially in these modern times and the junk parts that are out there waiting to soak up your money.

[@raoulcruz4404]

He said “a $1.50” for a t stat. Unless it’s wholesale close out, that’s really scary.

[@paulcox2009]

@@raoulcruz4404 that’s not surprising to see one that cheap. They are around five to ten bucks at the local brick and mortar stores.

[@raoulcruz4404]

@@paulcox2009 You’re right it’s not surprising to see that. Also not surprising to see those fail. Had 3 failures in the past couple of years. One out of the box, another went 14 miles , another 121 miles. That was 3 different vehicles.

[@DarkLinkAD]

The drill is your friend.

[@MrZdvy]

@@raoulcruz4404 Those are rockauto prices, even brand name parts.

[@phillippettes6321]

In this one I started watching it to see what you were going to do as far as the cam and lifters. You said yours were fine and you didn't need new ons and basically we were on our own. That is the biggest problem today and you just blew it off. Thanks !!!

[@tbm3fan913]

While I use Rock Auto for some items I use them very little for internal engine parts. I have two very trusted eBay sellers where I can get NOS and OEM internal parts that were made in the US some years ago. With a Mercury 410 getting rebuilt right now and then a 3.0L Vulcan next I have been lucky. All bearings and rings,for the Vulcan, are Ford. The 410 got TRW, FM, and Mahle parts while lifters are NOS Ford. The only part that won't likely be from 10-20 years ago, in the original box or at all, is the cam assuming I replace it. Just had delivered a full set of lifters for my Mopar 360 today by Sealed Power US made. At $53 I thought was pretty good.

[@OldcarsNmusic]

WTTW. The pickup tube is a real treat to get into and out of the pump!

[@oikkuoek]

Spotted an easter egg for the race date!

[@Czechbound]

That was *great* ! Practical, real-world advice. Accept no substitute

[@suitorkr]

UT, suggestion for another video in this series would be how to purchase precision tools, micrometers, calipers and such. It would be along the lines of hey, you can cheap out on harbor freight calipers but go for quality micrometers.

[@tomschultz2833]

I wish I could do 100 thumbs up ! Please Tony!!!

[@RiverrRiverr]

Maybe it's just from me running into high quality precision measuring tools for very cheap/free, but I would never cheap out for the harbor freight tools. The measurements from their calipers and mics aren't terrible, but the gripe I usually have is with the fit and finish. They just feel terrible to use, and sometimes that doesn't inspire confidence in the measurements either. An example would be the calipers being all sticky or crunchy sounding when moving. Their bore gauges also seem to wobble all over the place. I've had good luck over the years keeping my eyes open at estate sales and swap meets for good deals. My most recent score were some unused Brown & Sharpe mics for 5$ a pop, not even HF can beat that.

[@wheels-n-tires1846]

Rock Auto can be a great source. It my go to for lots of builds, and been using them for years, with only one incorrect part being sent, and they fixed it quick.

[@jasonkaiser5150]

Parts geek sent me a bad part Then I had to pay to send it back. Jerked me around about a refund for a month. Then kept my core.

[@MikeBrown-ii3pt]

I've used Rock Auto and Parts Geek several times. So far so good from both. I do still prefer to deal locally though if the price difference isn't extreme. That way, IF there's a problem, I can actually walk in and get it fixed.

[@richardross7219]

I've been using Rock Auto for years and have generally been pleased with them. When I rebuild a Chevy small block I have used Northern Auto Parts(NAP) for over 20 years. Their engine rebuilding kits have been good deals but I haven't done an engine in 7 years. Good video. Good Luck, Rick

[@DarkLinkAD]

The shipping can be an issue, Fedex escpeciallly

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

Rock Auto can get expensive quickly, when it comes to shipping.

[@kellismith4329]

@@DarkLinkAD where I live, fedex is miles better than any other delivery method - always the same very friendly driver etc, she just automatically drops any parts directly into the back of my truck for me, they rock

[@DarkLinkAD]

@@kellismith4329 Mines all diversity hire and ANYTHING goes. Stealing packages, throwing them out the window and markin them delivered etc.

[@screweddriver8611]

I KNEW IT! tony IS a time Traveller, this video was made in March 🛸👽

[@robertchall8576]

I liked it when there was J C Whitney one stop shop.

[@richardpurdie6798]

Use a screen recorder program and wear a headset and you can show the screen and talk to it, will make the video more interesting.

[@jacobellis9820]

Best part about rockauto is the magnets they usually throw in with orders

[@al_dente4777]

The last thing you'd want would be to have magnets anywhere near an oil pump or bearing shell

[@raoulcruz4404]

@@al_dente4777 They are too weak to be a problem. They barely hold the picture to the fridge.

[@honuswagner9348]

@@al_dente4777 he's talking about fridge magnets lol. It's the size of a business card.

[@oxyfee6486]

We’re talking about fridge magnets right?

[@jacobellis9820]

Yeah, little flat magnets about the size of a business card

[@05glisedan]

All your videos have value. Perfect series for those with initiative and not afraid to try. Most importantly, enjoy the process....

[@richjordan9375]

I've ordered a lot of parts for my '71 318 rebuild from Rock Auto, but had a heck of a time determining origin on a lot of them; even visiting the manufacturer website they were cagey as heck about where the parts were made (which almost always means china...). It took several orders to get a complete set of Melling valves and pushrods because they never had 8 each in stock; similar problems getting new rocker arms and shafts, and valve retainers that weren't made in china of mystery metal. I picked up lifters (Johnson) and camshaft from Hughes Engines; I keep hearing that they are still properly made.

[@GJM866]

The only thing I dislike about Rock Auto is that they charge separate shipping from every different warehouse they ship from. So if your order contains parts from warehouse A, B, and C, you have to pay shipping for each one. Other than that I think they are great.

[@drussell_]

What do you expect if you're ordering from different physical places?! It's awesome that you CAN get things direct from a zillion different warehouses, often right from the manufacturer's main distributions points!

[@GJM866]

@@drussell_ I am not ordering from different physical places, I am ordering from ONE place, Rock Auto.....

[@drussell_]

@@GJM866 No, you are ordering through _one website_ who is simply acting as a broker, taking your order and forwarding it on to the appropriate stocking distributor. Having access to this huge range of wholesale distributors is a *godsend!* RockAuto doesn't warehouse things themselves, the simply _allow you_ as an individual to order from a bunch of distribution centres that even your local parts store probably doesn't have as wide ranging access to! If you don't like that, order from somewhere else, or your local shop and have THEM essentially arrange and pay the shipping and mark it all up appropriately. Or, order from somewhere like Summit that *_HAS_* a large warehouse to act as a distribution point (although even places like Summit don't actually always stock EVERYTHING directly in one place) where you're more likely to not have to play "pick the best parts combo" to minimize your shipping. You're simply being obtuse.

[@mph5896]

I usually group parts together to get the lowest shipping costs. Heavy items such as brake rotors are getting expensive in shipping though. The 5% discount they give offsets a great deal of the shipping cost, especially on large orders. $1k order, that's $50 discount.

[@harryharris4057]

in 5 to 10 working days can you post something about how to do returns. thanks

[@kidkv]

It's always a good idea to get a new water pump, when rebuilding an engine.. if not it will go bad a few months down the road and you'll be replacing it. Always run coolant in the engine, just water will wear out the seals.

[@MikeBrown-ii3pt]

One more thing Tony...whether ordering online OR standing at the parts counter, always know exactly what you're ordering parts for. For example...just yesterday, I bought a junkyard 302 Ford that is currently in a 1990 F-150. The thing is, while I know for sure that it's a 302 (5.0L for the youngsters out there), the vehicle that it's in is now 33 years old. Who knows if the engine is original to that vehicle? Is it original, newer, older? What type of cam does it have? Etc, etc, etc. I bought the complete engine even though I won't be using certain parts but, until the yard gets it out of the truck and it's in my shop where I can check numbers and disassemble it, I won't be ordering anything EXCEPT (since I'll be switching from E.F.I. to a 4bbl) a Holley throttle lever extension and transmission kickdown stuff so that it'll work with the C-4 that I'll be using. The ONLY reason that I ordered those parts when I got home is because they were in stock and, actually already shipped this morning. I figured I'd get them since I know I'll need them and they're available right now (who knows if they'll be available in a month or so).

[@Kevin-kb6uq]

I like Rock Auto and Summit Racing. (and sometimes Jeg's) Even though Rock Auto is usually cheaper, if they ship from more than one warehouse it can be more expensive than Summit as they have free shipping on orders over $100.

[@MikeBrown-ii3pt]

Yeah, that's what bugs me about so many online places. I actually placed an order with Summit last night and, since it's shipping from Nevada, it won't arrive for a few days. No big deal since I won't even be working on that particular engine for at least 2 weeks and, the shipping is free. The same order from some other online stores would've cost over $20 in shipping and, wouldn't have arrived any sooner. In my case, the best part about Summit and Jegs is that their main warehouses (Talmage and Columbus, OH) are both only a couple hours away from me. If I need something and, it ships from Ohio, I get it the next day and it's still free shipping. If I absolutely need it that day and, assuming it's in stock in Ohio, I can just fire up the truck and go pick it up.

[@chriskucia8348]

@@MikeBrown-ii3pt I used to live an hour or so from Summit in Talmage. They were open 7 days a week, until 9pm IIRC. Saved me many times while working on a weekend if I had one of those surprises and need something fast to keep working. Plus a trip to their warehouse/showroom is always a bit of a treat.

[@MikeBrown-ii3pt]

@@chriskucia8348 The first time I went to Summit was back in 1987. They were still in Akron proper and the big store in Talmage was years away. I do enjoy visiting the showroom though.

[@oldreliable303]

My first i just went to napa got the rebuild kit, picked up the engine from the shop, checked notthing, bolted it togeter and went. Ive put 380,000 on it from the time i did that. I was lucky. Edit, tony you are using that chair wrong....

[@mikeymike758]

He puts pistons in backwards too! Haha...

[@vernonmartin3056]

Thanks a million times over! I have a 360 that needs a rebuild and I want to do it myself. I'm comfortable with engine repair and maintenance, but I have never done an overhaul. I rebuilt the transmission a couple years ago without a hitch, so now I'm going to carefully dig into the engine. Again, thanks as this video series is just what I need.

[@jodygarcia9892]

How'd it go?

[@mikebell9166]

For everything there is a first time; the 1st time ordering parts can be pretty daunting. This should help the person who's an absolute newb get thru a hard set of decisions... thanks for putting it up!

[@fastinradfordable]

Anytime ordering parts is daunting

[@jameskelley2459]

Love you guys

[@charletonzimmerman4205]

Ol'e Time J C Whitney, & fiquiring out "Shipping" method by the Weight, I got an education, also!

[@dissociativecat7495]

the crankshaft in my 1994 xj came from the factory with two different sizes on the rods, std and .001 under.the mains were .001 under. I had to buy mopar to get the thrust that size paid around $25. per bearing

[@DanTheManIOM]

Might be good to give a summary, pistons, rings, connecting rod bearings, oil pump, water pump, etc. I missed the episode on cam, but I would have thought the same way, new cam. Yes it is my first engine build and I am well past 18.

[@TheGforcead]

My first car engine build was '79 Toyota 20R Truck. I had credit at the local NAPA and they had a set of std-0.010 over rings?? Thinking that I honed the motor that much. I use ring groove cutter too. You could not drive the piston in the cylinder. A older wiser mechanic explained to me That these rings were for running a std piston in a 0.010 over bore cylinuder.I went got std rings, slid right down cylinder, I spun bearing 100,000 so my crank was turned 0.010/0.030. I love 100 octaine AV fuel, burns the plugs clean, high Rpms

[@E.force89]

. I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and another 4.0 that was running but had a knock out of a parts vehicle, I would like to go through it, freshen it up or do a stroker, this video series is great! Looking forward to the next episode

[@Hybridknfgrowchannel]

Saving for the edlebrock aluminum head for my 99 4.0 Cherokee should be last winter of walking in snow hopefully you use one loving the series will be my first time 😁

[@skiphughes7705]

@uncletony. Rock auto has a habit of shipping parts on the same order from different warehouses all over the place. And you get charged shipping from each warehouse. I did a complete brake replacement on my Pilot, rotors pads calipers master cylinder. Everything. The parts came from 3 warehouses and my shipping was almost 100 bucks. It will pay to make sure they are coming from the same warehouse if possible If that happens to you on this order maybe go over that when you do the unboxing. Have a good day

[@mph5896]

They give you a little truck icon next to all the parts that will ship from the same warehouse. I try to keep all the parts grouped to 1 or two warehouses to keep shipping cost down.

[@blackmanops3749]

I'm 62 and to a pause from my first engine teardown to watch this series. My engine was caked in oil and I haven't found where it is leaking but discovered SAAB never used an oil pan gasket or a timing cover gasket or an oil filter gasket. I'm going to use anerobic gasket gel when I put it back together. So far I've done things as suggested. I've been trying to keep costs down so unless I find broken rings, I'm not going to sped the $75 on a new set. Ditto for any bearings.

[@naturalfizzsailingvideos]

Rings should always be changed. That will give you perfect compression

[@blackmanops3749]

@@naturalfizzsailingvideos Well I did spend the $80 on new rings for the very reason you point out. Thanks for that!

[@ercost60]

Ordering parts video... The precursor to the unboxing video!

[@pcterm2]

clean-clean-clean,,,plastic gauge everything,,,just to be sure

[@jonathansmart3763]

Love you video following along as I'm doing my first build on 6.9 diesel

[@robertunderwood6011]

My sons dart was built from your page using your info and mine.

[@skydude426]

Thanks for all your videos. They’re awesome! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience with us and you do it well.

[@jameshuban6515]

I've ben following this series though I haven't rebuilt an engine in decades. Back then we didn't any on- line resources. I had a chosen few auto parts stores I relied upon. I would drive past the newer chain stores to get any important part. I also preferred a few name brands, (Felpro, TRW. National, Standard/Blue Streak etc.) I wonder if you recommend using "plastiguage" even if you have calipers and dial indicators. As a rule of thumb we always changed the oil pumps and timing sets. Just be careful when choosing flowrates. (do you really need 75lbs of oil pressure at idle?) I'm a firm believer of "when in doubt, change her out." I used to always change lifters as cheap insurance. It's disturbing hearing about the bogus parts that are around now. My brother made the mistake of reusing the old lifters when he changed the cam on his LS5 rebuild. It resulted in a golf ball size hole in the block and a pushrod protruding through the rocker arm. So much for a "numbers matching block".

[@Leatherhead237]

Sneaking 3/25 update on Casper info in the video 👀

[@joekurtz8303]

Had an AMC tech/shop instructor mention that 4.0 (6) & 2.5 (4) share bore & stroke dimensions, for production expediency.. good luck on build, been following series on this.

[@mikefalcone9157]

I dont know if i would have gone with the cheapest head bolts, there are videos of people snapping cheap head bolts before they even reach proper torque! I know GM uses smaller bolts than Mopar, but its still sketchy even by my standards! Lol. Love the vids Uncle Tony!

[@TONTONAP]

Mann this home builder guide is helping me so much build a 5.7 for my charger going all stock with agressive cam no turbo any information is good information I have it all tore down sitting on the stand. I still need lots information tho

[@MrTheHillfolk]

As I'm building this car and engine ,there's not 2 days that go by where I don't get a delivery at the house. Best delivery was the air ride suspension, like 8 boxes piled up in front of my door and I had to move them all to get inside. I've had a blast making my debit card glow. Of course,I've got the money set aside for this so it's not like it's making me broke. Try it ,you only live once it's fun spending boatloads of cash.

[@squishycakes9087]

l started measring my crank when l was 13.

[@oxyfee6486]

It shrinks as you get older, drips oil ever.😂

[@johndoe43]

If you have the aluminum body oil pump it's best to replace it with the earlier cast iron pump.

[@waddney4121]

Idea for a vid, exhausts, drag, race, crossover pipes ect

[@tribble1]

4.0 run hot a 195 tstat is factory + they like to run at 210 all day. Its worth a few MPG to run a hotter tstat.

[@luke8210]

My first large engine rebuild, was on the farm. Ol man, laughed at me when I mentioned crank bearings. He went in the back, pulled out an old leather belt. Cut it to fit. That tractor still runs today.

[@felixlafuente9714]

March 25 casper???? 😁😁😁😁😁

[@DarkLinkAD]

Might have to start making this parts, like lifters at home. The machinery is becoming cheaper and cheaper, while the quality of at home production is more accessible.

[@elreyyakko]

Good job tony. I remember buying my first cam from summit.

[@donaldhalls2189]

That's pretty cheap, looking like a great build, can't wait, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones

[@samh-smith2931]

Thanks so much for this video series mate! All the way from australia first engine rebuild, how can we donate to you?

[@joshrodgers9366]

Ive ordered from rock auto 3 times and all 3 times I ended up with trash parts that didn't work out the box. I usually just deal with summit racing because at least when they send me trash they always take care of it super fast

[@redmondjp]

Well you didn't do your homework then! YOU have to determine which one of the 15 different options sold by RockAuto is the good one (if any). I've been ordering parts for decades, and I still typically spend more time on the computer (forums, etc) researching what parts to order, than it actually takes to install them! Recently I ordered Moog suspension parts for my F350. RockAuto saved me hundreds of dollars - tie rod on RA was $75, but $175 at local store, for example. The same difference in price for the other suspension parts as well. And all Made in USA parts too, in this instance.

[@mph5896]

You have the option of buying garbage parts or quality parts on Rock Auto. I have ordered close to 1k orders from them. I may have had a handful of wrong or defective parts.

[@raoulcruz4404]

Rock auto takes returns pretty much hassle free. I returned a condenser because it hadn’t been machined and welded for the drier. They took the return and sent me another. The replacement had boogered drier tubes with cut o rings. Wholesale closeout is often older but better made parts.

[@mph5896]

@@raoulcruz4404 You have to be careful with the returns. Any part you "tried" to install, they won't take back. I tried some brake pads, they were so far off they would not fit in the brackets. Since I answered their online return info properly, they refused the return.

[@MikeBrown-ii3pt]

As others have already posted, that's why you don't buy "economy" grade parts, especially when buying online. With the exception of all new, polyurethane bushings, I bought everything I needed to completely rebuild the front suspension under my 1994 Ford Ranger from Rock Auto. Every part I bought from them was either Moog or TRW and everything fit and worked properly. The bushings came from Summit and are Energy Suspension brand. Edit: I didn't buy my new Radius Arms from Rock Auto either. They came from my local NAPA because, believe it or not, NAPA was $20 cheaper than anywhere else!

[@Grumpy-sy7wr]

This particular video reminds me so much of the UTG format of 3 or so years ago 😆

[@DanEBoyd]

Uncle Tony, it's not March yet! YOU'RE GOING TO GET AHEAD OF YOUURSELF!!!

[@Dad2ADaughter_Cpt_Blakesbeard]

I love all his content.

[@sewing1243]

This 67 year old "kid" appreciates all these videos.

[@Schlipperschlopper]

I only use King bearings or those sold by Jegs under their house brand (they are King bearings!)

[@ratt727]

Great information provided again, always good tips.

[@renaissanceman4054]

Should look into some screen recording software like Open Broadcasting Software (OBS)

[@2HacksGarage]

March 25th, casper… hmm. Easter egg on a race?

[@dannyk1980]

I definitely got something out of that

[@johnelliott7375]

Good morning to you Uncle Tony I hope that you have a great afternoon.

[@The_R-n-I_Guy]

The only thing that would've made this video better is if we could have seen the screen with the different choices and prices

[@DanEBoyd]

Yo Uncle Tony, on Steve Mags's Nova video today, he holds up an advertisement for the '68 or '69 Nova SS 396, and I'll be damned if the ad description doesn't tout aluminum bearings!! It says: "Both Turbo Jet 396s feature four barrel carburetors, molybdenum inlaid piston rings, forged steel cranks, ALUMINUM BEARINGS, and alloy steel connecting rods." This is visible at 6:29 in that video.

[@carlosochoa9388]

Looked online for parts found out that my engine was infected! It had STD parts...

[@al_dente4777]

Mine used to be infected with STP. It caught them from me 😍

[@georgebonney90]

Thank you Sir

[@dadstillsurfs]

If the motor had been overheated and you're doing thermostat, water pump and oil pump, why would you not get a new radiator and hoses to finish the loop?

[@jamest.5001]

Id like to get a late 80's early 90's Cherokee, 2wd, and swap in a 4200 vortec, maybe do some mini tubs, and a 5speed, 255-50-15 or 295-50-15 in the rear, 225-50 , maybe 225-60 in front, forged Pistons, better rods, port the heads a bit, turbo it, it should do 750 at the tire, with 93 and alot of methanol injection! Probably run a 10 gallon cell just for it, build a throttle position sensor, to control a pwm motor controller, to control a high pressure pump, with a low methanol warning light, and use water only for a limp home band-aid, and reduce boost, make a daily driver from it! Either that or a LV3 v6 in a blaster or S10, these are a 6cyl LS engine!! Id like to cut one to a v4 and put it on a Harley frame,. Some guys have made v2 SBC engines, a v4 even in a small car could be cool! A chevette or Vega with a turbo 4cyl LS v4, or a LV3 v6, they replaced the 4.3 engines used from the 80's, a 6cyl LT engine direct injection, the V8 intake and exhaust will fit with block off plates!😆 That's crazy! But cool they share so much and handle tons of boost, make tons of power,n just like the LS/LT engines!! The 4200 i6 engines have DOHC, with 4valves per cylinder, and the cam timing can be advanced and retarded, with a proper ECM, on the fly, making low end power, and top end HP, with boost, it really responds , it's like magic!!

[@OldGeezerstoolbox]

As an industrial chain supplier who deals with miles of chain every year, I strongly recommend to ALWAYS use new sprockets when you put on new chain...and vice versa. Old chain will quickly wear brand new sprockets to match the worn-out chain. Old sprockets will stretch new chain to match the old sprocket wear. I battle people all the time who are trying to save fifty cents by skipping half---and it always ends up costing them in the long run. Just don't.

[@chineseempanada420]

This series comes at a perfect time. I’m attempting to replace my pistons in my 01 Cherokee while it’s still in the car. I was looking at rockauto for rod bearings and saw they have std and .001 undersize and was curious if the .001 are better for a used crank that won’t be machined what do you think?

[@cutl00senc]

Step one…sit in your chair backwards…! Lol

[@trolllibtards2604]

Also, it’s false what you are saying about “MODERN” Aluminum engine bearings. They do not distort! In fact most car manufacturers use bi-layer aluminum bearings in their engines because they are far more stronger.

[@bobbybrown931]

Tony check your application of t stat computer may be set up for a 195 and have trouble going into closed loop.

[@wearegame777]

Rock Auto is all about the shipping...

[@kg6itc]

If you have an old water pump in your hand, don't put it back on : ) Replace with all the hoses.

[@natevanlandingham1945]

I see Casper over there on the 25th of March.

[@raoulcruz4404]

Tony, I agree with about 98% of what you say and do with cars. But a $1.50 for a t stat? That’s scary unless it’s wholesale closeout. Some of those closeout items are vintage quality made from years ago and have just been sitting in a warehouse.

[@randallamik3230]

Just asking how much a typical cam swap should cost. All the videos on now are cam plus headers and chrome valve covers intake etc.

[@dieselapegarage]

Watching the mad scientist at work notebook and pencil in hand 😂😂 keep it coming the learning never stops

[@theblackhand6485]

I thought this video was about buying the right tools for head porting, lightening pistons and rods.

[@jodystover2931]

Hey Mr Mopar, I was wondering if you might be able to tell me are do a video on removing lean burn on a 1985 slant 6 I have a 57' dodge pickup I'm putting in a 85' 225 slant 6 lean burn and I'd like to remove all and run points and the Holley 1904 1 brl carb any opinions are suggesting would be great thanks

[@raoulcruz4404]

Tony usually avoids the comments section. So I hope you or Tony don’t mind if I interject a comment. You might try looking this guy on the internet “ slant 6 Dan”.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

What will you do when the piston weight doesn't match the original weight? It's funny, I had a core plug that rusted through on my mustang about 30 years ago so I replaced just the one. None of the others have leaked since then.

[@auldphart7912]

I get the vast majority of my parts online. I can't stress enough the importance of a doing a little research especially if you're unfamiliar with the brand. For the guys just getting started a quick web search for the manufacturer and part number should at least let you know if you're risking being stuck roadside in a cloud of smoke and busted parts. You can find out specific details and if people have been burned by bad parts someone is always going to post about it.

[@madmanmapper]

Where's your collection of RockAuto fridge magnets? Mine is literally everywhere around my shop.

[@chuckg9805]

in a few days there will be a video of UT unboxing new parts and flipping out how there all junk from china

[@NSUGS]

As a hoser from north of border, $1.50 for a termostat is bonkers! (I heard that right, right?!)

[@oxyfee6486]

I just bought a 180 for my 67 Camaro in Southern Ontario, it was 21 bucks plus tax.😳

[@raoulcruz4404]

You heard right.

[@andrewinsinga2993]

Crown automotive Has everything for jeep

[@jamest.5001]

19! What! I built my first engine when I was 12-13! It was for my dad's truck, we had the block and everything ready to go together, he was kinda dreading it, or was not in a rush, so I did it myself! I had already cleaned the heads, lapped the valves, I have messaged around with engines before, just never actually built a engine, had taken them apart, but it ran great, ended up in dirt track car we ran for a bit, with a better carb it would done much better, it was under carved, it had a duntov 30/30 cam, solid tappet cam, 600-650 carb, great in the 50 Chevy truck, with 4 speed, wide ratio trans, 3.73 gears, the carb was great for the street, (somewhat) but horrible for turning 7k to 7400 rpm at the track, went to a 3speed, single the 6:20 gear didn't need anything besides revers and 1;1 hi gear, and may 2nd , 1st was geared like a clock, reminded me of a lawnmower in 1st gear, it went no where, it could idle and climb a tree! My first race I came in 5th first time driving, if there were 10 more laps, I think I'd done much better, I was starting to get somewhere, about to hit 4th place, the engine made enough power, it could have used a bit more compression, to get it to pull harder out the turns, it was 10:1, 9.8:1 , the cam really wanted more, and we had over 100 octane available, and running probably 100-105, race gas mixed with 5gal of 93, in about 15 gal cell, we could run 4 races in a cell full, and still have fuel! Id love to had cut .040" off the block, and .080 off the heads, the pistons were forged, flat tops, in the hole a bit further than I'd like, I'd like about .020" between the piston and quench pads, it had decent stock rods and crank, ARP rod bolts, I ordered them for my dad, he had the rods resized, polished the crank, and a sand paper polish of the ports, a rough gasket port match, if that block was cut, and had the pistons out the hole about .010"-.020" with the right head gasket, and be Shure the valves has plenty of clearance, , I like about .060" to . 080" on the valves, with .125" + for flow around the relief , not just enough room for the valve, it needs room for the AIR also!! Room to flow! That would made a big difference in that engine! Get the compression up to about 200-230psi and unshroud the valves and work the ports a bit, and a 750-850 carb double pumper, to get that 3400 lb car off the turns on that short track! It would awesome to build it again! The acceleration with that 6:20 gear was like being punched in the face if you didn't watch what you were doing! 😆, The first time in the car, I hit the throttle, my head flew back, my hat went out the rear window opening! Whiplash was very possible! Especially on take off, in a lower gear, top gear take off was like 1gear in a stock mini truck or average street car, the next lower gear was like a slower drag car, like 9-10 seconds slow, I watch drag racing, top fuel cars are fast! To me a street car does 11's as in a street strip car daily driver type, a faster street car gets in the 10's 9's it was geared low, but was not set-up for acceleration, from a stand still, 15"x 14" rims wit 35x 18.50" on all corners, roughly the tires made the rims look like , 15x 8's with 33 x 12.50's on them, the tires were huge, track tires, you had to buy them at the track, or the same tire, and have them stamped, back then it was $100 each, seems like $10-$20 to get it stamped, I wish we built a engine specific for that car, the street engine did ok, had enough HP for the job but to win races, tg compression needed to be pushed up to 12.5:1, I had pop-up Pistons, and a set of childs& Albert file fit rings I wanted to use, we were only limited to stock type iron heads, and 355cid, or 4.030bore, I guess a 351 and 360 would been fine also, I bet and Chrysler guys would loved to ran a 340, .030over, but I think a 13 yr old built a decent engine to be street driven daily for 5 years or so, then go into a race car!!