did you know that the bing 54 came with different pistons, with a different needle height. i found a second hand 54 and couldn't get the engine to run properly until i discovered that the needle was way too high
@JohnnyRobertson-o4tКүн бұрын
08/23/24.. I'm considering the Rotax 582 for my Challenger ll CWS. I'm trying to learn how to take good care of a 582. Your U-tube presentation was a big help since I have heard the problem you discussed is most important to stay aware of. I have flown rotax 447 and 503 twenty years with very little problems since I'm always doing maintenance a head of schedule. I look forward to your other vides. Thanks.
@dalebolen23624 күн бұрын
I believe now you've mixed old oil with new oil because you didn't pull the plug on the opposite side of the engine at the bottom so the engine still has a lot of the old oil in it
@DJBlackhawk4 күн бұрын
Link to tool?
@RotacRepair4 күн бұрын
Amazon.ca “power built”640811 in 14 mm back-tap.
@shoaibsagittarius136417 күн бұрын
I want this Guage,from Pakistan
@RotacRepair10 күн бұрын
Sorry, I don’t sell this gauge. This fuel sender and gauge was purchased from Amazon.
@keithbennett135917 күн бұрын
Hello , I am watching your video on 10 percent ethanol gasoline . The E10 sample you show here is clear , is this regular grade ? I operate an ATV / UTV service shop and constantly deal with bad gas . I advise all customers to use only High test gas in the hope that it is ethanol free which it may or may not be . Here in NS regular is yellow and high test is clear which tells you nothing about the ethanol content but tells me what grade customers have been using . If I find yellow gas it is guarantied to have 10 percent ethanol and the clear hopefully pure ???????
@RotacRepair15 күн бұрын
Hi Kieth, the clear sample was E10 87 octane and the other yellow sample was neat 91 octane. This was interesting, I just purchased 50 litres of E10 87 that had no ethanol content. I was surprised, tested it twice and still got 0 % ethanol. First time that ever happened. I test every fuel purchase for ethanol %. The food coloring drop in a fuel sample is the fastest way to find out if it’s neat or E10.
@dyske-19 күн бұрын
Thank you for putting together these videos! Great supplements to the Rotax manuals.
@RotacRepair18 күн бұрын
Glad you like them! Happy flying
@user-vr6nl5fq3p20 күн бұрын
Здравствуйте 🤝 какой зазор между маховиком и триггером (датчиком)? Спасибо
@RotacRepair18 күн бұрын
0.4-0.5 mm or 0.016-0.020 inch using nonmetallic tool
@DanielHunterUSA29 күн бұрын
I’ve noticed oil drops fro my 503 carburetor filter after I fly ,what could that means ?
@DanielHunterUSA29 күн бұрын
I’ve noticed oil drips from the carburetor oil filter after the flight,what could that be ?
@RotacRepair27 күн бұрын
Hi, is your 503 operating on premix or oil pump?
@josepeixoto3384Ай бұрын
Knowledge is power; thank you very much.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
You are very welcome
@cricri7066Ай бұрын
My guess would have been that they were off a Lazair, they are a little bit big for a CriCri!
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
You are correct, Lazair
@MyFriend-vi4elАй бұрын
Plz ans me
@MyFriend-vi4elАй бұрын
I like u fule gaga sence
@MyFriend-vi4elАй бұрын
Fule gaga sence 375mm ok how much Pakistan money price
@kennethmays6830Ай бұрын
Great vid. Thank you for taking time to make this.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it!
@lindsaylefaivre537Ай бұрын
Thanks for the information John
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
You’re very welcome!
@costahtАй бұрын
Thanks John. That's a nice little tool and your explanation was perfect. You just got a new subscriber from Brazil. 👍
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Thanks for the sub!
@1200FlyingАй бұрын
The only caveat I would provide is that to do the repair you are actually removing material. Depending on how badly the cylinder head has been cross threaded, isn’t it possible that the repair could result in the plug not being able to be torqued properly? I had a repair done on my 503 by a technician for the same reason and even though I could torque the plug it came out in flight. I ended up replacing the cylinder head.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
It actually removes very very little material, it’s more of a realignment of the threads. Torques up perfectly. No issues at all. I do know that if any type of thread replacement sleeve is installed it absolutely will fail and the spark plug will fly out.
@clearpropАй бұрын
Really interesting tool there, John - never seen one of those before. Thanks for sharing. 🙂👍
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
You’re welcome, it really is a cool tool!
@challenger2ultralightadventureАй бұрын
The real problem is when you get resistance putting a spark plug in, and just grab a wrench and force it in all the way. Someone who does that, deserves the cost of repairs. Great video as always. Cheers from Winnipeg.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Thanks, it was enjoyable to show a way to repair rather than replace a component.
@donsipesАй бұрын
YES that is a really cool tool. THANKS.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
@@donsipes absolutely, saved that head now the threads are perfect again. Hope the owner adopts the by hand method of installation.
@jimp.7286Ай бұрын
Never seen one of these tools. Volkswagen beatles used to give me spark plug thread problems. I always used a thread chaser in all cylinder holes needed or not before installing new plug just to be safe. This actually straightens the damaged metal. Very cool. Just learned something useful here - not just for rotax either. Cheers. 👍
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
I remember those cars, I also wish I knew about this tool back then! Mmm I wonder if it had invented yet? I’ll need to check the package for a patent date.
@brucemcgimsie4544Ай бұрын
Great to know, Thx John
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
You bet!
@user-cf1ve9mw9fАй бұрын
Useful information as always! Neat technique!
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@lindsaylefaivre537Ай бұрын
Thanks John for your time in trying to educate us , Great video
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Your welcome, the more the information is shared the better.
@brucemcgimsie4544Ай бұрын
Thx John, this is another eye opener.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Sure is!
@alkempton1512Ай бұрын
Good job
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Thank you, happy flying!
@MrHanowskiАй бұрын
Have you done any videos on repairing and/or replacing the banjo check valves on the oil injected Rotax engines?
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Not yet, it’s on the list for a video
@MrHanowskiАй бұрын
The old oil looks pretty clean, making me wonder if changing the oil is necessary.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Replacement of the rotary valve oil at 100 hours is recommended. Even clean looking oil will contain extremely small wear particles from the brass gear.
@260bossuteАй бұрын
How is this not an airworthiness directive for inspection??
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
I believe that would be prudent.
@SuperMurraybАй бұрын
Thanks for the warning. Ethanol does dissolve many plastics but that is not the only problem with fuel that contains ethanol. Ethanol will absorb water from the air and form an ethanol-water solution. If that is exposed to the air it will absorb acetobacter which will convert the ethanol into ethanoic acid. That acid will then react with most common metals like aluminum to form salts. This causes pitting and will leave small crystals where the metal used to be. One way to prevent problems is to drain the fuel completely after every use. The other alternative is to remove the ethanol. If the fuel is agitated with water the ethanol will move into the water. IF the water is then decanted the remaining fuel will be ethanol-free. There is no simple solution to this problem as long as goverments continue to mandate ethanol in the fuel.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Thank you for the superb input. Yes it absolutely absorbs water. I’m always stating “after 30 days in the tank, drain and refill with fresh fuel”
@SuperMurraybАй бұрын
@@RotacRepair You are welcome and I think your video is important for engine reliability. It would make sense to ban ethanol-blend fuels for aviation. It is not like an aviator can pull off to the side of a cloud, set the parking brake, and wait for a tow truck to come and tow the aircraft into the shop. It would make more sense to give people the option to buy ethanol-free fuel if that is what they want to use.
@aerialambitions3066Ай бұрын
John! I love your insight and videos! How much for a tank?!!!! $$$
Great video John. I have the same tank. Looked good when I got the plane in 2022. Only ran Esso 94 or 91, which then was still ethanol free. By 2023 the ability to find the ethanol free gas was getting harder, and by the end of 2023, I do not think anyone was advertising ethanol free in Ontario, but some may differ. Our local station uses Esso 91, I tested it, and it definately has ethanol. My filler tube had an issue last fall, collapsed on itself. After several attempts to fix I finally Sealed (sealall) it to the filler hose, (which originally was just radiator hose) which was gas rated. Have not had a problem with that since. As for the tank, I do not remember discolouration when I got the bird, but now it has a mottled appearance. I will see if I can find some pics from 2022. I have not noticed a problem with discolouration in the gas, or the filter, but I pulled most of the gas out when it did not fly for a few months. As for carbon buildup, when I pulled the engine for its 150 hour, the piston tops were black, the lower rings locked in solid with carbon, and the upper rings half locked. I wrote that off to 1/ its first 40 hours it ran rich due to the carb needles put on top of the white plastic slide (before I bought it). 2/ my last 1.5 hours running were tethered trying to sort a charging issue with most of that time running at 3k rpm. Perhaps the resin in the fuel was a contributor. We tore the engine down to the crank, and notice no other issues as you described, nothing of note on the piston sides below the rings, and no resin building on the crank or anywhere else. I had ordered a tank in the fall when I had the issue with the neck, but it never did get shipped, and I didnt push it as the replacement likely meant moving the fill point and other hassles. Flying "on condition" keeping an eye on it. Also considering switching to wing tanks. Great video again.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Please proceed with caution, I believe from your description you have all the melting tank symptoms.
@challenger2ultralightadventureАй бұрын
What is your opinion on using 100LL in a 503 or 582?
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
100LL is far more octane than a 503-582 requires, however when I’m on a trip I have occasionally used 100LL. Its very expensive compared to car gas, it kills the spark plugs in 25 hours and dirties up the inside of the engine. On the plus side your fuel tank won’t melt.
@VerticalSpeed1987Ай бұрын
So what's the solution here? Do we all buy aluminum tanks from John? What are the thoughts on alcohol resistant gas tank sealers like POR15? Coat the inside of fiberglass tanks with this??
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
@@VerticalSpeed1987 I know of one tank sealer material that won’t stick properly if the tank has ever used premixed.
@timothyahigginsАй бұрын
Looks like the epoxy is failing, resulting in delamination.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Correct, that is the warning I’m attempting to pass along. Thanks for your comment.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Correct, that’s the warning I’m attempting to pass along. Thanks for your comment.
@chadpm11Ай бұрын
More signs that the governments all around the world are out to kill us with the senseless climate crap.
@patrickmckowen2999Ай бұрын
Good info 👍
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Thanks 👍
@techlifetime4098Ай бұрын
What about the plastic 10 gallon tanks? Are they affected by the ethanol?
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
The “plastic” fuel tank are not affected by ethanol, it’s just the fiberglass tanks.
@thomassnyder6750Ай бұрын
I fly a 503 and I currently buy ethynyl-free fuel. E10 85 octane is OK to burn in my Rotax engine?
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
87 A.K.I. rated gasoline is minimum for a 503.
@flexairzАй бұрын
use vinyl ester resin.
@RotacRepairАй бұрын
Thanks for your suggestion, however it’s aluminum for me.
@seangreene642 ай бұрын
Ceramic scraper or plastic utility cover plate works as well 11:49
@RotacRepair2 ай бұрын
Two good suggestions, Thanks for the tip
@challenger2ultralightadventure2 ай бұрын
Once all that cleaning and such is done. What 2 stroke oil would be best for engine protection, where the engine has oil injection. I keep getting all sorts of advice from people who I'm sure mean well, but coming from someone who rebuilds engines and knows what does the least damage is my preferred source of information. I do have a feeling that this may be a bit of a controversial topic, kind of like which beer is best for a summer time BBQ. Cheers from Winnipeg.
@RotacRepair2 ай бұрын
Controversial is correct! I personally use Castrol Super Snowmobile 2T. I find it has great corrosion resistance, mixes easily with neat gasoline, E10 and 100LL, it’s readily available in my area and is reasonably priced. The 1 litre container part number is 0017442, the 4 litre container part number is 0017431. Everyone is welcome to use their favourite flavour of oil, however when I’m directly asked, this is my recommendation.
@donsipes2 ай бұрын
Thanks John. Good episode. A couple of questions: What's your take on vapor blasting? I'm not sure what the medium is but I hear good thinks about it! What do you do when the guy before you has not been as diligent and surfaces are scratched up? CHEERS!
@RotacRepair2 ай бұрын
I’m not very knowledgeable about Vapor blasting. I’ve seen what I would consider good and poor results, I’m sure it is dependent on the secret recipe of blasting media. It’s interesting to note that the walnut shell will easily remove carbon from the piston dome and ring groves, however it’s gentle enough to not remove the magic marker where I’ve written on the piston skirt. Quite amazing!
@RotacRepair2 ай бұрын
If the crankcase sealing surface has been damaged by abrasive cleaning it’s pretty much scrap. While the low areas may initially seal at assembly, there’s a good chance that the unsupported sealer areas could blow out. Then the resulting lean mixture could be fail the engine. The crankshaft bearing crush may also be affected. I wouldn’t risk it, cheaper in the long run not to use a crankcase with damaged sealing surfaces.
@aerocam22 ай бұрын
Thank you so much! For some reason, despite having a 20# box of crushed walnut shells sitting Bach in the shop for 6-7 years, I’ve never used them nor I have thought to use them to lean case halves. Betcha I do next time. We so appreciate your videos and the information you share. Thank you so Much!,
@RotacRepair2 ай бұрын
Your welcome. Mmmm, I would imagine the next 20# bag will be more expensive than that one. Happy flying!
@richardturner62782 ай бұрын
Thank you for sharing all the information you do. Very informative and helpful. I have great success using starting fluid and a paper towel to get most sealants off aluminum components. It's a little slower but it does work if u don't have a walnut blaster. It just simply melts the sealant and it usually just sorta rolls off. Then go back with brake cleaner to prep for final assembly. Now I will say that all starting fluid is not the same. The key is the ones with the highest either content. Over the past few decades the either content has been lowered across the board for safety and environmental concerns I'm sure. Diesel fuel or kerosene ( which is almost identical) works great also but just messy to deal with. Now I'm not suggesting anyone try any of this. But it does work and we've been doing it for ever around here. Another option for someone is to just take the part to their local engine shop and have them clean it. The main goal, as you pointed out, is to get the part absolutely clean and oil free with no scratches. Anyway, thanks again for sharing your expertise.
@RotacRepair2 ай бұрын
There’s always more than one way to get there. I hadn’t thought about using starting fluid or diesel. I. Your method certainly has been successful for you and won’t scratch or harness the surface. Thanks for the tip.
@clearprop2 ай бұрын
Thanks, John - another very interesting watch. 🙂
@RotacRepair2 ай бұрын
Your welcome! And unlike other crankcase sealer videos out here, I’ve still got sealer reminding in the tube for next time. Lol
@georgehine51262 ай бұрын
I love your videos John! Thanks for doing them!!
@RotacRepair2 ай бұрын
Glad you like them!
@davidlemaire3602 ай бұрын
It is possible to change the seal withaout open the motor???
@RotacRepair2 ай бұрын
I would certainly advise against changing an engine seal by that method. If the engine has a seal leaking it’s likely long past the recommended inspection interval.