@@carlospacheco7361 great advice. Thank you.

Thank you. The slot mortiser is from Laguna, but an old machine that has since gone out of production.

Thanks for watching. It would probably take 4-6 weeks to compete. Half of that might be the sculpting alone. A LOT of sculpting.

@@bigben380 now i see how this pieces can get very expensive on etsy.

It wasn't too bad. Comes with great instructions. Probably took an afternoon, not including the glue up time. But to be honest, it doesn't really matter how long it takes, this vise is fully worth the time. By far the best vise I have ever used. As far as tips go, the instructions are so good that I don't really have any info for you that isn't covered in the literature that comes with it. Maybe just make sure that you mill your face boards properly. Rough mill them a couple days ahead of time and let them acclimate before final milling them to thickness. Preferably, these need to be flat, and stay flat.

Amongst the knife lines and the gaps in the dovetails, I'm sure there is a pencil line in there as well. But if you are referring to the horizontal line? that is the knife line, from the dovetail layout. In retrospect, I probably should have just removed it before assembling. Thanks for watching, Drew

Thanks for watching. No issues with this piece, as it's is a pretty movement friendly headboard, with no opposing grain direction other than the vertical side pieces of the kumiko. But those are hardly enough to cause any problems.

@@bigben380 Yes, sorry, I didn't specify what I meant by "wood movement issues" - the kumiko is exactly what I meant. I was worried that you might get some separation in the summer or potentiallly pieces broken in the winter? Sounds like it's not a problem?

@@Subsonic-cd2en Got it. No issue with the kumiko. Each joint does get a small dab of glue to ensure that they don't come loose in dryer months, when the wood shrinks (I apply this with an awl). There just isn't enough tension in the small kumiko pieces to cause any noticeable damage when they expand.

@@bigben380 Nice. Thanks for the reply!

I did not intend for this video to be a "How To", just simple a documentation of my build. The bench is 84"L x 22"D x 34"H. made of Western Red Cedar, Hard Maple and Cherry, with Poplar drawer carcass and Mahogany drawer fronts. I am sorry that you did not enjoy the video do to these lack of details. I am happy to answer any question that you might have.

Hey Kevin, Thanks for watching. You're going to love the process of these chairs. Things that helped me were the test pieces. I practiced cutting the joint before hand, on a piece of scrap milled to the same dimension. This helped work out the kinks beforehand. I used this same thought process for the shaping. The arms, and where the legs transition to the seat were tough, so doing them on a sample piece at first helped a lot, especially when it came to figuring out which shaping tools worked best for each application. One tool that I made on the spot was an extension to a round rasp. I took one of the cheap, hollow rasps with the handle and cut off the handle, then epoxied in a dowel that was the same size at the inside to use as the handle. This gives you a handle that is the same-ish size as the rasp. It made it a lot easier to get into hard to reach places (which there are a lot of with these chairs). Go slow and have fun.

Thanks, Matt. Fingers crossed to finding more time to make more videos. Time seems to be the biggest factor

Thanks, Carlos. The gate is made of a vertical grain western red cedar

Dang I came to the comments looking for the answer to this too. I'm building one similar to this right now and that's my main concern.

@@R0gue6729 anyone get the answer?

Thanks for commenting. I don't use any screws or metal fastener on the gates. As far as sealers go, the only sealer that was on this gate was a green wood sealer, which is applied only to the exposed end grain. Other than that, the gate is left to weather naturally

Thanks, Brent