should find help here: lowfuelmotorsport.com/faq?c=4&q= I guess its the 80 SA missing?

They do, do Normal AC too, but yes you must have a valid licence to be able to race on LFM. Their servers will check if you do have one and also will not allow you to sign up to any events either online. So you must have a valid licence to be able to participate in LFM.

thankfully they were asked all that before so they have a few answers here: lowfuelmotorsport.com/faq?c=4&q=

some categories of AC asks for a license, most don't, like the mx5

not slow, sir! each setup has a button below "view setup" which will bring up a website with all the values in the setup so you can copy it one by one to the console. thanks on nords :)

@@SimracingPopometer Thankyou most helpful as always ,respect to y' Nils and looking forward to trying this ,all the best to you and yours :)

sorry, should be now, just refresh the page :)

@@SimracingPopometer Thank you, it's working now :).

You really don't need to torture yourself with TC 0 to achieve a 7s slower license run :) It's not the target of the video or setup to reach the fastest possible time of the car, which comes at the cost of less drivability. Not sure if it really needs TC 0 anyway, the TC seemed to engage smoothly here.

@@patrickmcglory5438 Same here. 😂

Me too lolol. Been averaging 1:48 in hungaroing

more grip, sir. caster helps retain camber while cornering and since our camber limits are quite low, more caster is usually better

@@SimracingPopometer From my understanding using more caster it increases the alignment force of the wheel but at the same time causes more camber when the wheel turns. So generally the less caster you have more camber you have to use to get the most optimal contact patch of the tyre. Do you know at which point you're using too much caster so the camber ends up being too much going past the optimal contact patch on the tyre when in turn? I always thought, run lowest caster you can with the FFB you want and that way you get more grip.

you have to see that the values we get in the setup screen aren't random min and max values. they are within the reasonable or regulatory margins of the series/car/tyre manufacturer. in ACC's case, camber limits are defined by pirelli. using more caster helps us essentially exceed these limits. its hard to get too much camber in ACC.

@@SimracingPopometer I see, do I ever have to worry about having too much camber in ACC or no?

@@RelaxSimmer unlikely. you can play with lower rear camber if your car, for whatever reason, does not rotate enough. it might also give better traction.

49" ultrawide these days. also see my current rig. the other video is a bit old ;) kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHOQaJyLfbKEaNU

hey! you need the 2023 dlc

i am running my base at 80% (=16nm) and with the gain in ACC set to around 60, I'll end up having peak forces of maybe around 12nm. so 15 should do the trick easily. Irl the cars have less steering forces than that, but they are also not driving the car based on steering wheel feedback. with the sc2 base, you wouldn't really look at the peak forces, but the slew rate (how quickly the base can produce high forces -> sharper feeling). using the maximum forces of these bases only really comes into play if you are driving older cars without power steering, like 1980s F1 or lower class formula cars. maybe the simexpo would be a good place for you to try a variety of wheels with higher forces before committing to anything

@@SimracingPopometer thanks for the reply… I’m in the Fanatec ecosystem and looking at the ClubsSport DD+ which I understand has improved quite a bit over their older DD models regarding slew rate and sustained holding forces etc.? I’m currently running the CSL DD 8nm at 100% with 65% gain in game… this is the highest I can go on most cars without bad clipping in medium/high speed, but the forces in low speed end up being crap.

because its always difficult to judge what others feel from distance: make sure all filters (like damping, friction, inertia) are off or minimal

@@SimracingPopometer yep all filters/settings not based on the game simulation data are off … in game with damper at 50% and dynamic damping at 100%. I did try playing with linear instead of peak and the low speed forces were significantly better (more range and detail) but then the peak forces seemed too low. Came to the conclusion I just need more forces / dynamic range to properly feel what the car is doing across the board.

please try and turn down the "damper" in game and only keep "dynamic damping" damper means: resistance to speed of steering, the faster the wheel wants to spin, the higher the resistance, meaning it won't let the wheel rotate fast when the car oversteers if the wheel is oscillating on the straight, add 5-10% of natura damper and natural friction in the fanatec driver

no

😅

iracing is just very boring for me, the tires are not feeling great due to the excessive load sensitivity. from the track driving i was able to do lately, im even more on the fence about how iracing feels and I just wont get warm with it.

@@SimracingPopometerit would be great to have you, hope you change your mind soon. God Bless

antlionaudio.com/

people will only need to read the race rules. they are not normally like this. either just a glitch or someone overlooked it setting up that particular race. theres nothing to "try" unless the rules are set up as they were.

i officially am, lol

@@luizarthurbrito they need to cast Nils in The Accountant 2 and drop Ben Affleck.

Bist du ehrlich Steuerberater?

@@nikost3349 nein ;) nur irgendwann mal buchhalter gelernt

@@SimracingPopometer achso OK :D

I have 41° the rest is up to your monitor position and wheel etc

that's because you lock up too much and flatspot the tire. you need to brake more carefully :) I also had damage on 100%. that's the idea of turning abs off: being forced to brake within the limits of the tire

no. there are enough GT3 drivers confirming the input pattern

once its not 30°C outside ;)