Hi Mark, what information are you curious about. I'm happy to help if I can.

@jbtricklerc for direct drive application cars I've been going through spur gear one even melted and I've done some adjustments and it happened again I'm just now getting back in the game I do practice but only have this one problem with my spur gear on my Intimidator 8 other than that the tips are very helpful and I haven't seen any videos on direct drive thanks

@@Mark-h1o I've actually got a 4 video series where I rebuilt a Hyperdrive-GFRP Havoc with a direct drive diff. Here is the link for the first video which has the diff rebuild tutorial. It may be working checking out the other three videos as well that can be searched for on my channel. If you're having spur stripping issues, Check that you have proper gear mesh and also make sure that the spur gear isn't hitting the chassis plate. here is the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/g4nJlmuLmr-Fosk

Cool! Congrats!

"Tamiya" :)

They do, they have a facebook group you can checkout to see the schedule.

Steve, For which class? The 17.5 class had a specified battery which I believe has changed since the last time I raced. The breakout truck battery was open. But I ran a Mudboss approved style battery. I believe it was a Phantom 5200

I appreciate it! Thats exactly what the channel was made for, to help follow racers and to entertain. Thank you!

The clay would dry up an come off sure. But when racing, you'll be cleaning it off and reapplying prep in most cases. in regards to the weights, you want to keep the weight as low as possible. I appreciate the comment!

@@jbtricklerc Thanks so much. Totally logical. I'm sure most of my tires are out of balance and I should try out your awesome method to see how much it helps. Not for racing but just for better control.

@@RCRoads Awesome to hear. If they are bad out of balance you could see some improvement for sure. If they aren't that bad, you would probably be okay. I appreciate the comment.

Great question, I took some much needed time away to focus on family and other hobbies for a while. I do plan on returning in some capacity at some point. But racing every weekend and video editing 3 to 4 times each evening of every week just took a toll. But I do have intentions of returning at some point. I appreciate the support and commend.

@@jbtricklerc even videos of just the racing would be awesome thanks for all the info you did put out though it’s been super helpful

@@kylekallies3381 I really do appreciate it! I'm glad I was able to entertain and help many racers and always appreciate the feedback.

Thats awesome to hear and congratulations! Thank you for the comment.

Glad to hear it continues to help other RC enthusiasts. Thats exactly why the video was made. Thanks for the comment and support.

Every few races. The hard part is figuring out how many few actually means as it can vary from person to person. I'd check it every other race until you determine when it actually looks to need it. then you'll know about how often you should. Best of luck to you in all your RC racing!

I really appreciate the support and kind words. Thats always been the goal of the channel is to help out newer racers with the information they need to get rolling. Thank you again and best of luck to you in all your RC racing adventures!

Great question. Any of the options you mentioned would be acceptable alternatives. Sometimes, I do alternate batteries. Sometimes I just rerun the same pack (club races or experimenting is what I usually did). At one time, I had my batteries labeled saving the better batteries for the Mains or big races. Most tracks now also have a Lipo bag rule. In other words, I wouldn't be allowed to charge the battery in the car like that anymore and must be placed inside of a fireproof lipo safe bag. Which is a good rule to have for fire safety reasons.

Thank you for the support and comment! I greatly appreciate it!

I greatly appreciate it! I've had a few people reach out as well. Thank you!

@@JohnWisenbaker I greatly appreciate the kind words and happy to know it's still helping people. Welcome back to the hobby!

@@GarryParsons-t3h www.undercoverrc.com/drag-chassis Give that link a try. They may offer a more recent version as well. I greatly appreciate the kind words and support!

Great question! The truth be told is all final adjustments will have to be made at the track. The surface you race on is the only surface that final tuning will truly matter. Benchtop setup and outside driveway or parking lot tuning is needed, it will help you adjust the diff and all the necessary trims. But even then final tuning will be necessary on your race track. As far as the spinning off the start goes, that can be tuned with the diff and or throttle input if your transmitter allows that kind of tuning. Sometimes I'd adjust the throttle curve so it took longer to reach full throttle which helps with off the line spinning. You're heading in the right direction. Just be prepared to make adjustments at the track as well to get it fully ready. Dont be afraid to talk with experienced racers there. Most will be happy to help you get it dialed in as well. Thank you for the comment and best of luck to you! Have fun and take each race day as a lesson and take notes.

@@jbtricklerc thanks for all the good info. The diff was really tight couple guys helped and adjusted it and ran great.

@@wildcardjoker Thats awesome news! Glad you got some help and got it running well! Best of luck to you and I hope you have a blast. Thank you for the support!

I greatly appreciate the kind words and support! I got burned out, racing every weekend and editing videos 3 nights a week was a lot of work on top of working a full time job and being a family man. I plan to return in the future to some capacity, just haven't decided how or when yet lol. But I really truly appreciate the comment and support! It means a lot.

It depends on what you want to do and the setup you are looking for. Since we run internal shock limiters and custom works big bore spring kits (as mentioned and shown in the video), keeping the bump stop would affect the overall shock length of travel and minimize it further which is not wanted for this particular setup. If you want to keep the bump stop and also use the shock setup with limiters as mentioned in the video. I would recommend cutting them to be shorter so your shock can have more travel as the limiters take some of that away. There is always more than one way to do it, I'm just sharing my experience and a tested and proven method for our area of racing. I appreciate the comment and wish you the absolute best in all your RC racing adventures.

@@jbtricklerc yea for sure I definitely see what your talking about I was kinda being over dramatic because how much dirt late models at least in woo and Lucas oil rely on bump stops

I greatly appreciate the support and comment!

Unfortunately, I do not. We do not have any Slash 4x4 classes locally. However, if you look up my "converting a slash to dirt oval" video, A lot of what I do in that video would likely transfer and would be worth a try. If you do, update me and let me know how it works out! I appreciate the support and comment! Best of luck in all your RC racing adventures!

@@jbtricklerc Thanks I am looking at it now.

It is mostly. The rules that we run only allowed an aftermarket steering servo and bandito racing tires and wheels and aftermarket shock springs on stock shocks. I have a slash build on the channel as well where I convert one to a dirt oval car and talk about the springs and internal shock limiters. It may be worth checking out as well. Thank you!

I greatly appreciate the positive feedback! Thank you for the support! it really means a lot!