The line closest to the primer bulb is the return line and it just needs to pass into the tank far enough that it won't get pulled out if bumped. An inch is fine.

They've been pretty good saws for us. Not sure what you've got going on.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.

Thats a good work-around.

Thanks for watching!

You're welcome. I hope it helped.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for supporting the channel!

You are smooth ! ! Awesome videos and info.

As I recall, the actuator couldn't handle it and I needed the extra leverage. Recently I added an actuator to the 26" top box. I'll show that in my annual toolbox update this fall.

@@TheGreasyShopRag thanks. Some coworkers and I have recently been talking about tool security... scumbag people have sticky fingers. So we were scouring the web and found your video. We all have different boxes, so our needs are different, but the actuator is a key component in all our ideas. Thanks for the great content!

@@matthewpeterson3329 I've had zero issues with the brand actuator I used in the video. Good luck with your project.

Thanks and thanks for watching!

Thanks for your support.

It doesn't forget and only needs to be flashed if you change a coil or in some cases a piston.

Yes its a little involved.

Oh boy.

Thanks for supporting the channel!

Dealer secrets lol.

Thanks!

Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.

@@TheGreasyShopRag thank you, it’s like going to a trade school. You show things, but also bring up things I research. Thank you for your invested time. It’s fun to watch your numbers going up. Take care.

Thanks for watching!

How would the fines get in the fuel tank? Or do you think they fall in when he opens the cap? This is one of those repairs where I'd like to see what the inside of his gas can looks like.

@@TheGreasyShopRagfell in when filling up wood be my guess. I carry a HF chip brush and clean around both caps before refilling with gas / oil

@@fabzacres-blackcat Thats good practice. Every so often I see a chip brush in customers saw cases.

@@TheGreasyShopRag You can also use an old toothbrush 🪥 to clean around the caps - only takes a minute and is cheap insurance. The Husqvarner caps are the cats ass but the STIHL flippy caps are an inferior design and the cam lock sometimes gives up the goose and your legs get a mix oil bath . I could never figure Why STIHL went away from the tried and true old school black threaded caps.

Thanks for watching!

The official word from Husqvarna is 23 degrees or colder or snowy conditions to keep snow out of carb area.

@@TheGreasyShopRag For giggles i looked up what 23F is in Celsius. -5 That makes more sense then 23F LOL

Thanks for watching!

Yes they run cleaner and get better economy but costs may prevent them from showing up on cheaper equipment. That role seems to be filled in by battery equipment but we could argue if thats really a cleaner option.

Nice work Scott. Laaaaaaater!

Ya sometimes saving money actually costs you money.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Maybe they made changes over the years or maybe one is an aftermarket piece.

Thanks for watching!

Well then we'll just consider this video inspiration rather than a tutorial. Good job on the repair!

@@TheGreasyShopRag Cheers fella, it defiantly inspired me to replace it saving me a 2 week wait and some cash!

I'm glad you're enjoying them. Thanks for watching!

When you take care of them they will last.

Sorry, dunno. Some mac model parts are available through Husqvarna dealers but not the 3200.

@@TheGreasyShopRag thank you and keep up the good work

Thanks for watching!

I guess it depends on whos doing the talking when you're doing the listening. In other words, the same words can mean different things. On the intake side of the piston heavy wear would appear as a shiny surface on the piston skirt. This is from dirt and any original machine marks will be gone. On the exhaust side I consider heavy wear to be any vertical lines that have no depth...you can't feel them but they are visible. Sometimes only as different colors but sometimes as what appears to be lines. Heat, dirt and carbon could be contributing factors. Scoring is vertical lines or grooves and metal transfer is the same thing only worse. Metal is being gouged out and transferring between the piston and cylinder. Heat and lack of lubrication and/or an expanding piston can be contributing factors. A foreign object could also cause this. When I see a piston/cylinder with "excess" wear I have to start determining if repair is a worthwhile effort. Most of the time people want to just get as much more use out of it till it dies, then replace the whole saw.

@@TheGreasyShopRag that helped allot Scott , I hate to keep hitting you with rookie questions but I do thank you very much sir. You take care brother.

@@drmikeyb1 Thanks, later.

Thanks for watching!

The official husqvarna clutch tool is part #597370701.

A fellow KZbinr named Tom has a great channel that goes in depth on a lot of your questions. He recently did a 170 carb video. Check him out: www.youtube.com/@VintageEngineRepairs

@@TheGreasyShopRag Thank you I follow this channel