I have a few videos on the traps on my channel, so feel free to browse. This is the best one for an overview: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mXSroomkgrl5bdE

Huh, I had to go look at my transformer as I would have sworn it output DC. You are right 12v AC @ 3A. Anyway, why would you want to go to DC? There are parts of the circuitry that are expecting AC and you are just asking for trouble by feeding it DC. I would need to take a close look at the board to say what might be impacted, but you'd probably be better off to order a new clone supply for about $45 and call it a day. Example: amzn.to/3xyCDrd (affiliate link). I know the official ones are stupid expensive. If you want to splice some wires, you can get what looks to be the same thing I just linked to, but with a different plug for under $25 with coupon: amzn.to/3KUcNkz (affiliate link) That said, does the unit not power on at all with the old supply, or is it a startup issue? It would suck to buy a new PS only to have it still not start.

Thanks for your answer. Last winter I brought the moskito magnet in a shed but stupidly forgot the power supply that was hidden in the grass. It did not survive at all. Thanks for your amazon links. Unfortunately I am in Europe and my grid is 220v. I am unable to find one compatible here that is affordable. This is why I looked at a DC version. Looking at the circuitry I believe that a DC should work but it needs to be at the right level to compensate losses through the rectifiers. If you have a min to measure the unloaded voltage that would be a great help. Many thanks.

Still here! That does seem odd. I would start by undoing all the plugs on the circuit board and trying to clean it. Get some high percentage isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush and scrub the board. Perhaps there is just something across a couple pins or something. The failure mode, however, makes me think something is wrong with the main control chip and it is freezing up at a certain point. It shouldn't run indefinitely like that. It should either start or present an error, but hopefully a cleaning will fix it. After that, try starting it with the gas solenoid disconnected and see if it runs forever. If it still does, plug it back in and try the same test with the igniter. Lastly, re-run the test with the thermistor. If one of those tests changes the behavior of the machine, it might point to something to dive into more. Good luck and let me know if anything changes. Glad to help troubleshoot!

I would if I could. Not available anywhere close. I mostly run "normal" pump gas with added stabilizer to help. My generator and other seldom used engines have been ok.

Good luck!

@@DavinDesborough Thanks. Job done. I split the halves of the engine and it was packed full of crud which I dremeled out. The ignitor was actually working so I left it in. The gas jet was plugged up so I took that apart and cleaned it out. For some reason the propane tank valve didn't release so I switched tanks and this one was fine. I used deoxit on all the electrical contacts to keep corrosion down & Put a strip of tape over each of the four case screw holes as mud dobbers had packed the slots with crud. When reassembled it started in a very few minutes. After seeing how it's done I'll just do a cleaning every winter and have it good as new for each spring. Thanks again!

@@XJ1100J Awesome! And, yes, just plan on an annual cleaning and you'll be good. It's worked for me anyway.

While a box fan will catch bugs, it is 100% indiscriminate on what bugs it catches. It was important to me to target only the mosquitos. Also, I doubt a box fan is going to last very long out in the rain. All that said, do what's right for you!

While uploaded videos get content matched for video and music, ads seem to skate through freely. Thanks for the notice. I previously made this response ad as it is all I can really do: kzbin.infoJQuU8c6nkyE

While uploaded videos get content matched for video and music, ads seem to skate through freely. Thanks for the notice. I previously made this response ad as it is all I can really do: kzbin.infoJQuU8c6nkyE

No. Those are the factory high intensity discharge (HID) lights.

The best I can do (nearby anyway) is a place that sells race gas. That is a bit too exotic for my pressure washer. 🙂

Yes, I have been happy with it. Thanks for watching!

I wasn't sure what you were talking about and I went back and took another look at the video. Yes, it seems I grabbed the wrong can of TruFuel off the shelf . 🤦‍♂Luckily I only put a little in there. I did use it to refinish my deck last summer, so it has had plenty of normal gas run through it since then. It runs like a champ! Good eye!

You are not modifying anything about the car while installing the hitch or harness. It should not impact the warranty. That said, I would ask the dealer to be sure if that is a concern for you. The panel that is removed is just to help with airflow.. It is not sealed to the body, so dirt and water will get behind it no matter what. You'll also notice that it only covers about 3/4 the width of the bumper. Good luck!

You need some downward force on the panel. Or just pry it off with a screwdriver

Thank you for the compliments! It is an easy install if you have the tools. The hitch has been fine. I have used it with my bike rack and trailer, no issues. As for bottoming out, you'd have to be going over something really tall or navigating a big dip for that to be a concern. It sits plenty high enough to not hit anything. The wire has been fine riding up there. It has never fallen out. That said, I did buy this, but haven't actually installed it yet. amzn.to/4bEumjT (Amazon affiliate link) Good luck!

Appreciate the response. Another question for you, if you don’t mind. Do you like the black glossy look or would you recommend a black matte texture? I’ve heard matte could be better against scratches but I also have seen it to cost more.

@justinhogenauer5568 so little of it shows that it is not a big deal either way in my opinion. No Matter what, it will likely rust over time and you'll want to take it off and repaint it.

Any lights, sounds, or anything? If you are getting a flashing led code, you can look it up here: www.mosquitomagnet.com/support/help/patriot-plus/light-codes (go to the proper trap and then click the "light codes" link)

Very annoying. Nothing I can do about it either.

I’m sorry to hear that man. I wish you can some Sort of compensation

@@AyoGobi Lol, compensation from scammers.

Sorry for the late response. You won't be able to order one as the company does not sell parts to the public. I can not find my purchase from way back when. I have looked around and can not find anything either. Basically, you would just need to buy a bare thermistor and put it in. I need to take one apart again and try to determine what thermistor is being used (resistance/temperature). That said, have you tested yours with a multimeter? If you heat it up and the voltage changes, it is probably OK. I will point you to this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGGpanyhn9aIjKc. I think his idea of securing it with a metal screw is a good one. It would help to bring more heat to the thermistor. the only down side would be the possibly of corrosion between dissimilar metals.

Yikes! That is crazy! It is a little fiddly, but not too bad if you take your time. Some have also suggested pulling off the wheel and going through the wheel well, but I have never looked into that. Good luck!

LG front load washers are still superior to other washers

I used some low temperature grease I purchased at a local auto store. The sealant was some Permatex Blue RTV as that is what I had lying around. Thanks for the compliment and good luck on your repair!

Yeah, I see them from time-to-time. I appreciate people mentioning it. While I can content match other videos, KZbin does not do content matching of ads it seems. I've made this video as a retort to the thieves. kzbin.infoJQuU8c6nkyE

@@DavinDesborough I didn’t even see the pinned comment 🤦🏻‍♂️.

@@Copium88 No one ever does. 🤣

Thanks for watching! Sounds like you have tricked yours out nicely. I may well do another video on my bike in the next couple weeks. I have an issue with the fork that I need to work out. As for the pedal hitting the ground during turns, no, I don't have an issue with that. If I am doing any serious riding where that might be an issue, my inside foot is always up so it is away from the ground. Enjoy the new bike!

If it is glowing red, I would think it is hot enough, but I suppose that is possible. One thing to try to start it with the plastic off. The metal will absolutely be warm to the touch if it is running. You said you cleaned everything, but have you tried blowing out the catalytic converter (the tube inside the metal housing at 13:53)? If that is clogged, or not really reacting due to contaminates, it could be hampering the unit from getting hot enough. These are absolutely finicky machines, which is unfortunate given how effective they are when working. Good luck and feel free to send updates or further questions!

@@DavinDesborough Yes I have tried starting with the plastic off and on. Ive tried feeling the metal housing and I dont really feel any heat at all. It never gets to the solid red light though. So something is not allowing it to start. It doesnt seem like the propane is igniting, or its not staying lit long enough to feel heat. Maybe the thermister is shutting it down pretty fast before it heats up? I was checking the ohm resistance on my thermister and it was at like 250 k ohm I believe . Is that normal? Do you know what your ohm reading is on your working thermister? Yes I did take apart the metal housing and cleaned up the cata converter. I didnt see any blockages or debris in there. I blew it out but not with a compressor, just with my mouth. I scrubbed the metal parts a bit as there were some build up but not much. To give you an idea, my thermister was quite clean when I pulled it out, nothing like yours was, so the internals werent very dirty. I have no idea why its not starting, everything looks good, the igniter lights up, the propane flows, the thermister "works" and it registers heat. I dont really know if maybe the resistance is too high and not meeting the requirements, or maybe the igniter is not getting hot enough to ignite the propane. I am stumped... Ive checked and done everything in your video and all the components seem to be working

@@Interrogreat If you tested like I did at 28:40 then the gas side of the equation seems OK. We still have snow, so I have not done the maintenance on my trap yet. I will do some tests on the thermistor when I take it apart this spring. I believe they are generally specified at 25 Celsius (so roughly room temperature) and 250k would be a reasonable value. I would also measure resistance at the pads on the back of the connector where the thermistor plugs in. The value may be a bit different as it will be in circuit, but should be in the same general range. While there, look for any corrosion on the board, especially around the solder pads of any of the chips. Clean with isopropyl alcohol if you see any grunge.