Where can I find the spreadsheet?

If your BMW i3 has a Range Extender (REx), use it and avoid fast charging, which is harmful to your battery. i3♥

I had the same issue on CCS (non-Tesla charger) and had to replace the locking pin. Once I had the old one in hand I dissected it - the locking pin mechanism seems designed to fail as it isn't sealed to the elements. I added dielectric grease to the new one to help deter water ingress. Pushing the pin back will not harm it as it is nylon gears that turn a lever.

**Please take notice of this information. I have reason to believe that you have been misinformed and the dealer must have misinterpreted something leading to a misunderstanding (unless they deliberately misled you):** There is a "recall" for the HV power management system. It's related to bad solder joints in the KLE and EME modules. BMW repairs it free of charge if issues occurs (e.g. sudden loss of power). It sounds very similar to what the dealer described. When you disconnected the cable, the charging was stopped. This means there was no voltage at the power pins, only possibly communication on the data pins used for handshaking and data feed (which are low-voltage and low-current). There's absolutely no way that communication on the data pins could cause physical hardware damage. Not even if something went wrong with the handshaking and especially not relating to solder joints. Even if the connector was disconnected while it was charging it's not likely to have any negative effect at all. If that was the case, then cars would become damaged every time the power grid went down while charging. Modern electronics handle this quite well and even old electronics didn't become immediately damaged by such things. On top of this, the level of safety mechanisms, intelligence and over-engineering of the charging standard is quite high. The magic dock adapter also shouldn't be able to damage the car's electronics when it was charging either. The car's power supply circuitry would cut power if the charger didn't comply with it's demands and requirements. The voltage and amperage control sits in the vehicle, just like with every electronic device. For instance, even old laptops without any handshaking, the charging circuit in the laptop call the shots and controls what the power supply is doing. I'm not saying the dealer ripped you off, but they must have assumed something else was happening (like ripping the cable out when power is still being fed or something like that). This was not the case here and even if it was, it doesn't make sense it would cause damage. For these reasons, it seems pretty plausible to me that your car was affected by the KLE and EME module solder joint issues. :) If not, then there was something else entirely. The error system also stated that the error was not active, only stored in history.

A good idea in theory but wouldn't it have been more elegant/discrete to mount the alarm unit inside the rear bumper area somewhere? Much less prone to damage/dislocation and no drilling?

In theory that's what I just did in reality I dfk what I did 🤣

Unfortunately, this company seems to be just a website with not enough cash flow to produce its products.

I bricked mine, now the eme module won't wake up. :(

How does this compare to the typical reflectix heat shields?

Here's a dumb thought of mine. How does the vehicle keep air fresh when running the ac? Is it just constantly losing cooled/heated air and replacing it with fresh air from outside? I suspect that must be the case but it bears asking

Curious how much affect 1 or 2 people breathing has on the temperature raise or gain. And Curious if setting to heat or aircon if possible to set climate control on fresh air instead of recirculating breathed air for 8 hours between 2 inside a tiny car might be a bad idea.

why didnt you buy the official bmw touch up paint from the dealer? it cost me $75 tax included

Our local dealer said there is no extended warranty. I contacted the BMW Customer Service and they said the 10 year warranty is in place, but only for one part of the system. Unfortunately, it costs $310 to have it checked at the dealer. An independent shop said it would likely cost $1500 at their shop.

Love the dog mode / camping mode graphs……a visual explanation really helps understand what’s happening, thank you 😊 👍

You have a wonderful, straight to the point, channel. Thank you.

Nope. Does not work for me.

Can you give me some advice on tire pressures for a 2017 BMW i3 running Blizzaks at 7 degrees C ?

Last Sunday, I bought my second BMW i3-a 2015 Rex with 72k miles. The price was great because the car had been parked for over three months, causing the 12V battery to die and triggering over 50 error codes. I also own a 2015 Rex with 130k miles and previously experienced a similar situation when the fuel pump relay failed. In that case, the main battery drained to 0%, which also depleted the 12V battery. My solution was to replace the 12V battery and leave it on a charger until fully charged, which brought everything back to normal. With this new i3, however, replacing the 12V battery didn’t resolve the issues. The malfunctions still appeared on the screen, and the car wouldn’t take a charge. The charger shows EV connected, the charge port light is solid white, and the instrument panel shows it as plugged in, but the battery level doesn’t change at all. Here’s what I’ve done so far: Before purchasing, I saw a post about the car and asked the owner a few questions. He wasn’t very familiar with i3s but mentioned that the car was drivable before he parked it. He had tried to jump-start it with a NOCO jump starter, but that didn’t work. On Sunday, I brought a new TX24HL battery, replaced the 12V battery, and the car powered on. However, the main battery still showed 0%, and the cooling fan was running at maximum RPM. Since there was no extension cord available to charge it in the parking lot, I decided to take a chance and tow it home, where I could swap parts with my other i3 to troubleshoot further. Once I got it home, I plugged it into my Level 2 charger and noticed the 12V battery had died again. When I removed the battery, I realized it was already 15 months old, even though it was brand new from Advance Auto Parts. I replaced it on Monday morning with another battery that was only three months old. I charged this new battery to 13.11V, reinstalled it, and waited for a new Level 1 charger to arrive (I had to return the U-Haul trailer, and the car isn’t drivable, so I couldn’t unload it in my garage). After about two hours, the new charger arrived, and I saw that the main battery level had risen to 47%, which seemed like a positive development. However, when I plugged in the charger, the same issue persisted: the charger showed EV connected, the charge port light stayed solid white, the instrument panel showed it as plugged in, but the battery level didn’t increase. I tried clearing the error codes with BimmerLink, but over 40 codes wouldn’t clear. I also used an OBD reader, but the codes returned after clearing. I left it on the charger for 10 hours, but nothing changed. By the end of the day, I checked the 12V battery again, and it showed 12.06V. I removed it, recharged it to 12.64V, and reinstalled it this morning before leaving. I’m hoping there might be some improvement by the time I get home tonight. Given this situation, does anyone have any suggestions on what else I could try?

Interesting video, rather spoilt by the loud music.

I've just repaired mine with sikaflex 221, an adhesive I've used in multiple roles over the years. It was quite bad at a couple of cm long and properly split. Looking good and I'm more than happy if it helps me keep a few £ in my pocket rather than BMW.

i have the same error code. the heater on driver side turns on for around 4 mins and shut off by itself until completely cool down. which color of the wire we need to solder with. it seems like you solder both the green and black??

I was googling on off grid solutions so thank you it is very interesting! / Patrick

How about reading the user manual...

Just about any audio source will beat standard SBC (Audio Sink) BT.

Thanks for the tip your method made it very simple

Good video and good tips. I just fixed my i3 seat heater a couple of hours ago using all of your steps. I appreciate you!

Thank you for the video. But did I missed something? I don’t know what the little device is and how you download the App on the phone. Was there another video?

Excellent. Thank you!

I would love if you would dumb these videos down a little! For someone who isn’t familiar with the basic testing principles

Great video. Have you thought about the transmission oil ? it's supposed to last the lifetime of the car but some people change it at 80,000 KM.

what about a drive shaft split boot kit.....pop it on and stick it

There is a little hook on the charge port cover to hook those rubber seals on to whilst charging.

Great video, thank you! What was the reason for checking on these items? Any unusual sounds? I have a 2015 and I THINK I am noticing that the whirring sound the car makes is getting louder as time goes on. Could this be a bearing or mount issue? I’ve only had the car about 8 months. Any suggestions would be awesome!! ❤

This is exactly what i planned earlier XD

I just replaced my 12V battery, but I didn’t see this helpful video before completing the swap. Now, I’m getting all sorts of errors, and my car won’t start. Is there a way to clear the errors using the BimmerCode or BimmerLink apps?

I wish i saw this video before. Went through two 12v battery changes. The replacing itself did not take me much. But got a massive scare when the car did not recognize how much HV charge there is. And refused to charge the car. My mechanic told me it requires a coding and a “sleep reset” where he left the car for 12 hours and it recognized the charge by itself. So this prevents what happened to me from happening. Because my mechanic charges an arm and a leg to change the battery.

Nice Solution!!!~~~~ If all coil shock parts are good, this will be an excellent solution until the shock needs to be replaced. I will try it on my Honda Odyssey... Do you have any more tips after long-term use ????

Thanks 😉

Thanks for the video! Gonna grab this kit. Some local kids scuffed up my car but they owned up to it despite me not being around. So comprise is I be cool about it. parents are gonna pay for the kit and I’m gonna do the work. one wants to watch and learn (with parent observing.) because he’s interested in cars/evs.

The battery is cooled by the AC compressor!

YOU ARE ALL GOING TO BE PISSED ONCE YOU FIND OUT THE ROOF OF A BMW I3 IS FIBERGLASS AND NOT CARBON FIBER!!! I HAD TO HAVE MY SANDED DOWN AND PAINTED …. THEN I HAD IT WRAPPED.. $900 TOTAL…. WRAP IT BEFORE IT STARTS TO PEEL!

I found with higher pressures the car felt way less stable at speed.

If you live in a cold area, maybe a styro layer around the battery would help AGM are unimpressive to me

This is incredible, thank you very much for this very thorough done test. Your video needs more recognition.

what about doing a vinyl wrap on this roof and body? Will this help? Thanks.

5:46 mine doesn't have any of those buttons...maybe it's just a US thing 🤔

Where i can get 3d print files and files for the stickers? I cant find place to buy them from...

Ahhhhhhh that music

how many km on the car?

Any power steering fluid to change ?