If it is an air cooled engine then smoke could either be blue (oil) or black (fuel). White smoke comes from coolant on water-cooled.

No the kit I installed only fits 93-98 9000 models.

If you do DI intake cleaning service it will pay for itself quickly. I would probably do a liquid treatment with seafoam first to soften it up to speed up the removal.

Sorry, can't help on that.

I don't suggest a locking diff( or power launch) unless you do the sedan subframe swap. You will tear up the coupe subframe.

I'm in Argentina and I was thinking of adapting it to a Ford Sierra, which I was going to use for drag racing, so I didn't know the limitations of this differential and what installation recommendations.

I got a limited non-slip differential from a 2.0T YEAR 2014 donor. From what has been investigated, the casings are unique, only the core changes, but I wouldn't know what to bring from its origins and incorporate it since there is nothing here. Very kind in advance for the response.

​@@marianocucu1895Quaife Engineering in UK makes a drop-in LSD that is heavy duty and has a lifetime track warranty. Might check with them on an application on the Ford diff.

@@Ryengoth The original differential of the Sierra is very weak The half axles don't hold up either, that's why I was looking for a variant The 8.8 irs would be ideal but very expensive to bring

The stock diff handled about 550 BHP on the last dyno test. We saw 504whp on a windyn before the DI setup dried up. 14psi on a 6266. I have no idea what the limit is on it. Check with Snoopy Panda.

100% OE refurb part, works great. Well worth the purchase from Detroit Axle. I never sent my old one in. I want to rebuild it after I finish the body work and interior.

For NA, yes just don't polish it to a mirror finish. Turbulence along the runner surface helps velocity of the main stream. Port matching is ideal depending on the flow you need. The main thing is to remove casting flash, large "zits" and any other runner surface defects like that from casting.

Had a similar problem on left rear during a door swap. The original door took a tree hit during a storm. Creased the top of the door beyond repair. While I was test fitting the donor door(with window up) the latch tang on the handle broke off. The pull rod was missing as well. After a bit of parts hunting I finally got the interior pull to work. Rigged a string through the front window until I could swap the handle out.

@@Ryengoth Sorry to hear that. Yeah that latch is very poorly fitted to the doors.

Oh it was messed up when I bought it. It needed a LOT of help when I bought it. It was a $250 project car that did not run.

@@Ryengoth Oh, I thought it. Didn’t know the full story, to be honest. Thank you for your work, right now I am trying to save mine and your videos are really helpful (especially the one with the engine head removal).

I have swapped handles before. There is a short rod and clip that must be connected for the cylinder to move the lock lever on the latch. The pull rod also connects to it. Getting that short rod connected can be a pain. I will try to post a YT short showing the linkage setup on driver side.

@@Ryengoth That would be fantastic! I have a Haynes DIY manual, but I still don't get it right. I have so far only touched the rod with the white plastic joint - I find it weird that there is no "channel" or crease that fixes it in a certain position. It goes a long way downwards, to the door bottom. Thanks

Clarification - I have everything set, the door handle moves as it should, but I know of no other rod than the one I mentioned

Those are supposed to have a clip that snaps onto the rod. The split off over time.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/naHSnoFprrBknZo

Tried, broke the tips off.

Yes. Every 100k. The timing chain as well if it is original. If it is an N54 I would suggest installing an aftermarket belt guard on the crank shaft seal. The oil filter housing is going to leak at some point. Avoid the death mine had from eating a belt.

@Ryengoth Thanks! Yes, I believe mine is a N54 its a 2008 535i automatic twin turbo. the timing chain has not been changed. I don't believe I'm the second owner. I ordered a drive belt kit from FCP euro so if I'm gonna replace that along with the water pump and thermostat, it would make sense to have the chain replaced, huh? I just wanna have this car up and running at peak performance and not worry about maintenance for at least another year haha. I got quoted 7k from the dealership and told them to tell me in paper form all that the car needs. They also quoted me for one tie rod but ordered a kit to replace all of them. I'm already about $1300 in parts alone with the chain and the guard around $1500. And final question I looked up the guard on FCP euro and this is what popped up

@@Ryengoth BMW Billet Crankshaft Seal Guard - Vargas Turbo Technologies VTT-CRANK-GUARD-1 I could just buy this kit and have it installed and be good to go?

​@@brianprieto5532German cars get very expensive to keep after 100k miles. The computer coding is a nightmare, budget for at least 3 failed controllers and the time for someone to remote in if you buy the $600 aftermarket BMW/Mini INPA/INA laptop kit. The first one to go is the TPMS box hanging under the rear, exposed to road debris and water.

Thanks! I hope you learn something new and are not afraid to try it yourself.

@@Ryengoth I have practically watched every video on your Saab 9000 project with a thumbs up on every one. I have a 1996 Saab Aero in silver with manual transmission and it needs work, rust on the wings, rust underneath at the rear, and many other issues but I am not sure that I could do the kind of work you have done on yours, very technical! If only you lived down the road from me but alas there is an ocean between us! Thank you for your videos particularly the Saab videos.

It is one of my hobbies, I have lots of hobbies. I have been working on cars for over 30 years, including bodywork. Expert at only a few, but capable of many.

@@Ryengoth Keep it up! Really enjoy your content and how you teach us new things

@@Ryengoth I think that's understated!

Which coin mech is it?

Thanks! I am juggling estate dealings at the moment so got behind on the fender painting. Hoping to have some time soon to finish that and the body work.

I usually put anti-sieze on sealing plugs as well. I don't usually use pipe tape but you could also use pipe-thread sealant to seal the cavity.

The easiest way is to pull the engine. You have to pull the timing cover off completely which is the entire front of engine. The valve cover and oil pan has to come off since they bolt to the cover and also serves as part of the oil pan sealing surface. The cover is sealed with anerobic sealant and has to be a perfect mating surface all the way around. There is no gasket.

Does your model have the ODBII interface or the ODBI? It changed over in 95.

@Ryengoth the OBD1 so it’s practically impossible to diagnose codes lmao but most problems are easy to diagnose without scanning

@@Nobodyfashoooo chinese tech2 clone with v44 saab card will do anything you need.

Yeah, I have snapped many aluminum bolts that way. The car ended up starving of oil anyway and seizing. N54 are a POS design. Never again.

The sensor is located behind the crankshaft pully on the 1990. Finding replacement parts for that older style sensor is getting difficult. Create a post on saabcentral.com under the "9000 Workshop" section to learn more information.

Here is another option. legacy.fourgreen.com/store/scripts/default.asp?fullsite=1

Need axle seals and pinion

Your best bet is Albert Hwang on Facebook for Korea direct parts. Snoopy Panda can hook you up too. All of my GenCoupe parts designs and IP are his now.

I wouldn't stress too much over a single flake. Drop the pan and check the intake screen. If the oil looks glittery I would pull the big end cap off #3 and inspect the shell and journal for galling.

@@Ryengoth I was planning to drop the pan and take a look. My thinking is, with 224k in miles, it probably wouldn't hurt to swap the bearings all together. Of course replacing anything else that seems worn while I'm in there. I'm pretty sure it can be done with the engine in. Why #3 specifically?

Was told it gets lower oil pressure and is common to wear bearings quicker. #4 is the farthest from the pump, so either one.

@@Ryengoth Good to know, you're always so darn helpful! Now that it's warming up I'll have to take a look in the next few weeks.

Looks like I will be redoing some interior parts from water damage. Fenders almost cured, sanding and recoat video soon. Possible hood repainting as well.

Ordered online from rendcarparts.com. great company!

Oh yeah, that S2000 tought me a lot about key chips and setup. I eventually sold it after adding multi-denom touch pad, TITO and a wifi hookup. The one-line pay got boring fast. Still looking for a cheap Bluebird video slot to play with.

Yes. I have 2 other cars in and out of the garage right now. I have to deal with condensation issues in the car from a leak. The sunroof is rusted shut now, the windows are stuck or super slow and I have fenders to install as well as body and paint prep to start.

Lang Tools 87. Heavy duty snap ring pliers. My favorite snap ring tool for any rings over an inch in diameter or ones that just will not budge.

@@Ryengoth Awesome! Thank you and I managed to get the snap ring out another way which was easy enough (amazingly). I’ll have to invest in the snap ring tool though.

The heater core is a beast to get to. I accessed mine from the engine bay when the engine was out. The blower can be replaced without removing the entire hvac box. Remove all of the false firewall panels and the intake.

The best finish is to use a vinyl top pattern repair kit after you get the crack filled and levelled. The topcoat bubbled after 1 summer on my initial finishing.

Se il servofreno (servofreno) ha un diaframma rotto, perderà vuoto e causerà problemi al minimo. Il pedale del freno viaggerebbe molto lontano prima di resistere. È possibile chiudere il tubo del vuoto accedendovi per il test. Se il minimo è migliore, il diaframma potrebbe perdere.

@@Ryengoth il pedale del freno è normale non sento nessun viaggio a lungo

does the idle stay high until the engine is hot or does it fluctuate up and down

il minimo rimane alto finché il motore non è caldo o oscilla su e giù

@@Ryengoth si è così quando si scalda il motore il minimo resta 1200giri invece di 900giri se ho la membrana rotta sul servo freno e' grave non riesco a trovare il pezzo di ricambio

Thanks!

5/16" push-on couplers work. You should use crimp style fuel line clamps for barb terminations.

@@Ryengoth Lot's of choices of crimp style clamps and pliers on Amazon. I don't need a set with 120 pieces. I only need one. Maybe another one or two in a pinch. What did you buy? Thanks again for your help, trying to keep this old 9000 on the road.

@@Texasbird026 the best option is to get the cheapest kit with the pliers. Dorman 10pk is like 25 bux alone. The full kit will be less than 30 on Amazon.

@@Ryengoth I was thinking about getting a kit with pliers. Thanks for followup

Yeah, I did not keep it. Carb sync and tuning can be a pain even with YICS blocked.

@@Ryengoth You sold it?

​@@sviktorijoskiyears ago, yeah

@@Ryengoth in the meantime did you managed to make it drivable?

​@@sviktorijoskiyes, there is a review and ride video in the playlist

The coolant sensor in the head is what the ECU reads for fuel maps and what the EDU deciphers for the dash gauge. It is likely the wiring is faulty or acidic coolant mixtures have dissolved the sensor casing.

@@Ryengoth Okay maybe I'll take a look at it today if I get the time for it. I did put in a new radiator aswell and another ac Unit.

​@@BoRag70keep in mind, also, that the EDU and gauges are old. The lead free solder used on them gets brittle over time. Reflowing the joints on the cluster is another option if ths wiring checks out ok. If you have over 200k miles I would still replace the sensor to prevent future cold startup and idle issues.

@@Ryengoth Yes I have removed the cluster from several 9000 that I owned to fix issues. And almost every time I bought a 9000 there has been briken lightbulbs in the cluster that I had to replace. But when it comes to the poor heating in the coupé I heard that it also can be air it the system. Dont know how to get rid of that though if that is the case.

@@BoRag70 only way is to burp the system. Never worked on a 900 so not sure. You can remove the thermostat temporarily to perform a flush cleaning. Check the tstat in boiling water. It should open withing a few seconds. Pop over to saabcentral.com forum and post a question there. Lots of veteran SAAB service folk and owners.

The 9000 is easy compared to a BMW X-drive. The front axle runs through it.

Yeah oil pan change in car on 9000 is no fun, it felt like I was under car for 4 hours yoga and then had to pray that gasket sealer didn't get wiped off when I wiggled oil pan back in.

You will need to use one of the switched 12V sources. Grab a test light and poke the red or yellow wires coming off the radio harness until you find a key-switched 12v source.

Regolatore della pressione del carburante o perdita di vuoto che fa sì che il regolatore abbassi la pressione del carburante sugli iniettori.

@@Ryengoth ok si può riparare o bisogna cambiarlo?

È possibile sostituire il regolatore di pressione del carburante. Vorrei testare la pressione del rail del carburante prima di sostituire qualsiasi cosa.

@@Ryengoth ok grazie lo già comprato il regolatore di pressione domani lo metto e provo la SAAB 👍

@@Ryengoth grazie amico mi hai salvato ho cambiato il regolatore di pressione carburante benzina e la SAAB funziona bene grazie ❣️🙋

The best way is with a tensioner tool like I welded up. Of all the stuff on the 9000 the serp belt and cam chain tensioners are pet peeves of mine. You can still grab the tensioner roller bolt head with a box-end wrench and rotate CCW enough to compress the spring some. It takes a LOT of leverage to do it unless your spring is shot.

Thanks, had a lot of requests for the door panel vid. I am still trying to find a headliner board from a CD or CS. I have a bare roof still and the pool of viable headliner options is almost dry.

Yeah I got most of the wiring sorted, not all of it.

Вероятно, проблема в часовой пружине. Будьте осторожны при снятии подушки безопасности. Отсоедините аккумулятор.

SRS - это система подушек безопасности. Для считывания кодов ошибок вам понадобится сканер Tech2 с программным обеспечением SAAB v44. Проверьте датчики удара в каждой нише передних колес в моторном отсеке.

@@Ryengoth Спасибо за информацию. Долго простояла, топливную станцию новую установил, SAAB засигналил, я отключил сигнализацию, а он не запускается. По идее двери должны блокировать , а они не блокируются.

Справа, за защитной пластиной, находится желтый блок сигнализации. Отключите его и перемкните два желтых провода, чтобы завести машину.

Перевод мой быть плохим. Желтый блок сигнализации находится за боковой панелью приборной панели. Пешком хорошо.

Фу. Гугл-переводчик еще раз. Правая нижняя часть приборной панели находится у ваших ног. LOL!!

Ремень безопасности (ремень безопасности) крепится болтом torx.