Thank you ☺️

Thanks so much. I sure will 😊

Ooooooh yeah 💪🏼

Certainly doesn’t feel like December!!!!

Dude get your facts right!!!! It’s a TR6!!! What about the 27th? Are you paying?

I was taking the piss 😉 your panel gaps made it look like a TR7 😬🤣🤣🤣 Keep on keeping on 💪🏼 TR6 🥰

And if you want a ruby in Wales then the 27th is good 🤦🏻‍♂️🤣

@@richardbarton4282 hahah you cheeky little nugget

@@richardbarton4282 well maybe I could 😁

Glad it was helpful! Jamie

Nice to hear from you and hope you’re enjoying Finland. Sounds like a cool project you have. Always wanted to build a lifted Kupla or Baja. Pleased that you find the videos helpful. And all bodywork techniques apply to any car 😁 I will be posting more soon. Good luck with your project. pikkuhilja 😁

Thank you and glad you are enjoying the videos. Yes don’t start poking as it could escalate quite fast 🙈 Jamie

It is better! I also exported the file using 24fps so I think it helped.

Thank you. Its nice to weld fresh metal.

Thank you so much. Yes its always a surprise what lurks underneath. Luckily this was a very salvable car. Jamie

Typical classic car I would say! 😂 They all have hidden surprises. Nice to document a build like this though as adds to its history. Jamie

Thank you so much. Much appreciated. Jamie

Thank you! Yes they are made of many layers so wanted to keep it correct, although sometimes easier said than done. Jamie

Yes you’re right. We probably should have. Luckily the boot lid was too far gone and we had ordered new and we picked a used good bonnet it too far from us for a good price. Jamie

Thank you and thanks for the tip. A friend of mine said the same. Its the LED strip in the background. I will play with the GoPro settings. Jamie

@jamiedowson6482 I was having a similar experience with some videos I was making. I started playing around with the frame rate, and 24 fps eliminated the flickering.

@ I tried my GoPro on 24 on Friday but the problem still exists so apologies for my next video.

@jamiedowson6482 sorry to here that. I'll do some homework. When it worked for me, I was using my phone. I'll double check with my other camera and see if there's another way. I'll let you know what I find out.

@ thanks so much that’s really kind of you. I’ll try some other settings also. I tried different lights also. Definitely the led lights causing the problem

Thanks for your comment. I will keep the updates coming. Jamie

Thank you. That's very kind of you.

Yes I was thinking the same thing. The crack on the rear mount was on the other side so I guess it was twisting. I would think with the modifications I did that it should be super strong now. I just welded the rear mount crack. Jamie

Thank you sir. The panels so far seem to be pretty good fit compared a lot of others I have used in the past. Good luck with your project. I’ll check your progress. Jamie

Good job. Coming along nicely

@ thanks man 😊

@@soup1448 Thank you 😊

Thank you. It’s good to finally be able to continue. I posted a video on the diff mount strengthening. Jamie

Its certainly is and really good fun to be working with Oli. It’s all fun and games 😁

It’s a super project and nice to be doing everything the right way.

Hello Laurent. Nice to hear from you. Yea I read the other comment also. We are thinking of changing the old injection for a newer system. I would like Oli to consider carbs but he wants injection which will still be cool. Thanks for your comment and more updates coming soon. Good luck with your TR4 Jamie

Workshop princess 👑

We may be changing out the old injection system with a more modern one. I would like to fit’s carbs but Oli wants injection and it’s his car. Haven’t done any research yet though. Jamie

Just a few 😁 money well spent though!!

Yes thanks. Once I read the labels on the bags it all made sense. The bonnet is really bad unfortunately. They went to heavy on it at the blasters. Luckily the roof is fine. They actually sanded that instead of blasting. We found a replacement bonnet so hopefully we can seal the deal. Jamie

Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated. I’ll secure the chassis to the frame and then play with the shims when it comes to fitting the doors. At least that’s the plan 😁

@@jamiedowson6482 Best practice is to fit the doors and brace from A pillar to B pillar and from side to side and a X brace from A pillar to B Pillar across the car. Then remove the doors. Having it bolted to the frame is a good thing. These cars flex allot sense they are a convertible. Hope this helps and it will save issues later.

@@TheLostWrenchGarage I really appreciate your input. Jamie

It really is like Christmas has come early 😁 super excited to get this together 💪🏼

Yes they do. No protection used on the inside of the rails.

Thank you ☺️

Thanks 😁 I have the old bushes somewhere. I’ll check them. Don’t they have a clearance for the welding? I measured the bolts but you’re right I’ll do a test for. Thanks again for your tips. Jamie

@@jamiedowson6482 no the bushes are flat, no clearance. You can see the original pins are welded from the back side too to keep a flat face. Happy to help!

@ super 👌🏼 thank you

In the kits for diff mounts there are pieces that get welded on top of spring mount for pins. Also front suspension mount reinforcing kits available. You can box in that skinny cross member for diff

@@andrewdonald4046 correct. Some people substitute the top piece with washers around the pin welding on the perimeter to spread the load. Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the front strengthener kits are for pre-73 chassis?

It is surprising. I really wasn't sure what is was going to be like after it returned from the blasters. I am excited to make progress with this project. Glad you're enjoying the videos. Jamie

Commented before the end of the video 😂

Thanks so much for your comment. I just posted a video of making the modification to the chassis. Awesome stuff. Jamie

@@jamiedowson6482 happy to help!

Thank you Sir. Its great to be getting on with this project. Never built one of these before so much to learn. Jamie

Thanks for following the project. New update coming soon. Jamie

You're too kind Jukka. Now the pressure is on to make it look like I know what I'm doing on camera 😂

Its back!!! I've been itching to continue with this project.

I've been researching this same question and 2 pack primer seems to be the go these days. You can body work on top of it. Paint society just did a video on it.

You're on the right channel then if you like Beetles and TR6s 😁 As for protecting bare metal it really depends on a few things. If your car is being stored in a dry and heated workshop then it is less likely to flash rust. The cars I build in Finland for example don't need protecting. Also if you live in a country with high humidity or damp conditions then it can obviously potentially cause problems. There a couple of options though if your conditions are not ideal. You can use phosphoric acid to protect it from rusting but this needs to be washed off after application as it will be a pain to clean areas that need welding. Also epoxy primer can be applied as its less porous than regular primer. But again this needs to be removed on the areas you need to weld. Hope this helps. Jamie

👍🏼 thanks for both replies 👍🏼

@@philp4842 You are welcome. Jamie

That's so true and its an honour to be part of this build for the sentimental value this car has to my friend and his family

Yes indeed! And luckily so far mostly good. Cant wait to start making progress on this project. Jamie

Rimmer Bros

Yes it is so much better than I expected. We ordered the panels from Rimmer Bros and will hopefully go to England to collect them next week.

It’s not. More often than not the pipes are rusted and blocked as mine were before I removed them. I have in the past wrapped the inlet with exhaust wrap which helps a lot to insulate it. Jamie