I have an article on my website that talks about this subject. Take a look: www.simpawtico-training.com/how-to-introduce-your-new-dog-to-your-cat/

Yes, you are correct. Might I add that if the only thing you have to contribute is a "Look how smart I am" correction to content you chose to watch, you should piss off. At least have the courtesy to address the content. This isn't English class.

Never said you couldn't measure the peanut butter, too. No need to put words in my mouth.

Thank you!

You are correct-I do keep getting the same questions, so it's likely time for an update. I can't add to this one since KZbin doesn't allow it, so I'd have to make a new one. It's about time, though, so I'll put that in the production queue.

It's mainly taught through repetitions and associations, just like the terminal and support markers. As you use them in every day and training situations your dog will come to understand what they mean (just like they learn what "Walk" means).

You're welcome! Happy to help!

You can crank up the value of the food as a reinforcer if you also use it like a toy. See this video for more info: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kIiTm6SDgd-Wi7M

True story. I've actually done that many times. 👍

Nice work! Happy I could help!

Good luck! Let me know how it goes!

That can be tricky sometimes. Try to get your dog to start the down while they're walking toward you, so you may need to back up with the lure to get them moving.

@@SimpawticoDogTraining he can go down with a lure but when he’s doing it all the time n i say down with no lure he will not lay down only sit how do i go abt training him without always giving him a lure? xx

I'm glad it's still helpful to people!

Yes, that is true. It is sometimes also called "Birch sugar."

For raw-fed dogs, heck yeah.

100%

Environmental management is the best for this. Just manage and restrict access-and don't leave them unsupervised in these areeas-until you gotten through some of those developmental periods.

Thanks! And good luck!

You're welcome 😊

I find that plush toys are the best when they're in the same "recreational category" as chew toys. I don't necessarily want them to chew up the toys, but if they use them for comfort and snuggling, I think that's great. If they're constantly shredding them, that's a dissection behavior that should probably be plugged into meal time. And…you didn't miss this info in the video; it should be in there, so it's probably time to update this video!

Just leave your pup alone while they're eating. There's no good reason to pet them while they're eating.

That's a good indication that it's new to your puppy, and you need to DO IT MORE. As we said in the video, this can take WEEKS to get right. So, you have to keep applying. It's about consistent execution, not "one and done." Also, don't forget to get your puppy off-leash around other puppies and friendly older dogs. They will do this work way faster than humans, and you should do it ASAP. The other main thing is setting up the environment so your dog can't follow you. Puppies should have a very small universe, to begin with. This is partly to make your management easier and so you can move to where the puppy can't follow. Then, you establish a history of follow-through. Puppy bites, you say, "Ouch." If your puppy reels it in, praise and continue. If your puppy comes in again, say "OUCH!" If the puppy reels it in, praise and continue. If your puppy comes in again and/or gets too intense, you eject, dip out, bail. Play and interactivity completely stop. 60 seconds later, come back and try again. This won't work the 1st time or the 5th time. But by the 25th or 30th, the dots start to connect, and your puppy learns to reel it in when they hear "ouch" because they don't want you to leave. Now, they're learning how to develop self-control. Hope that helps!

@@SimpawticoDogTraining thanks so much! I have been stopping the engagement but I haven't been actually getting up and leaving the area. The first ow she gets more riled up and excited to bite me more lol. We've been trying to socialize her with my mother in law's 2 yr old Yorkie and often as we can and we have a 14 yr Yorkie mix but he's old and grumpy so they don't really play together. Thankfully she's great with the pressure. Pretty gentle when she knows she's biting skin but every now and then through the shirt or a misplaced finger when playing tug and I feel how hard she could be biting me 😜 Appreciate your advice, channel, tactics etc! You guys really are doing the furry lord's work 😁

Good luck!

Glad it was helpful! This is one I'm going to update this year. Keep an eye out!

Thanks a ton!

For clamping down, gently feed the bite. That is to say, press INTO your pup instead of trying to pull away. Totally scrambles the circuits when you do this.

There's a free PDF on my website about jumping: www.simpawtico-training.com/learning/downloadables/

This likely won't be a good way to address separation. Depending on the severity, you may need to loop in a pro to help you sew it up.

You're welcome!

If you're getting your Beagle to lie down, you're most of the way there. Now, you need to fade out the lure. Take a look at this vid: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3Pdl6ePnpqiodU