Im just getting into diamond compounds and if im only buying one compound to strop then what grit should i use for all around? Thanks

Man knife sharpening is so confusing to me. Ive been practicimg for a while and got decent at it. Im not looking for a mirror edge just looking for very sharp. Ive been using green fine compound and now all i hear is that this compound is not good and i need diamond compound. Does anyone really know do i need to switch to diamond compound. ? The compound i use now does get the knives sharp and i stropped 15v s30v 204p and many others and it seems to work. Any input i would appreciate please. 😊

KZbin auto played this video and I watched it again because it’s got such great info! In doing so I started thinking that I hadn’t seen much from you recently across the platforms, I hope all is well!

I have been using 6 micron as I heard knives can benefit from some tooth. What am I missing? Wouldn't a 6 micron compound give my edge some bite? Am I misunderstanding something?

Sorry for long comment: I've been using the 1 micron quite a bit more as my one and only strop. I've noticed great results overall. I did have an interesting incident occur. I was messing around with a Manix 2 in Rex 45 that I had lazily sharpened on an Atoma 400 and microbeveled lightly on a Spyderco UF. It wasn't hair whittling, but it was very close. It had previously been used cutting a bit of cardboard. I stropped it as usual on the 1 micron SS compound. Same angle, fairly standard pressure, alternating sides. I checked it against a hair afterwards and it would catch/cut it from the right angle, but it wasn't consistent or especially crazy. I then stropped it on my jeans quite a bit, rather quickly and without much care for technique. It came back able to very consistently catch and cut a hair. Not feather sticking, but it would cut and whittle it fairly easily just by pulling the hair over it. Is there anything to this? Does stropping on an unloaded substrate really do much on a high alloy steel? I'm fairly certain it's not just a result of standing up a burr. The knife had been used on cardboard prior to stropping and a microbevel was part of it's sharpening process. Neither are particularly friendly to leaving an incidental burr.

Wow, that's exactly where I'm stuck right now. Im deburring on a 1m felt wheel (T8) and land exactly where your starting point was. Able to cut cig paper, but still catchy and just around 120 bess. And I always was wondering how on earth there could still be a burr after deburring on the felt wheel on a guided system. Thank for the knowledge you share

Could I also finish on a 6m resin bonded wheel with edge trailing strokes then?

why basswood over poplar or walnut etc?

Hi, I've just ordered a Chris Reeve Inkosi in Magnacut, they say it's 63-64, so, I'm hoping all will be OK, as it's a grail for me, and obviously very expensive,, 🤞🤞🤞, All the best my friend,,

Hi,, me again,, I've been using balsa a lot recently, but I think I'll return to bass, , I'm expecting my first knife in Magnacut next week, so, can't wait to see how the latest "wonder steel" performs,, ps, a friend gave me some of your 1 micron compound, ages ago, and it's just about empty, so I'll be ordering from you in the near future,, Cheers,, John. 👍

Hi, Max, just re-watching some (most😅) of your videos,,, 👍,,, I recently got a new Spyderco knife, and the included sticker says "the edge is a Ghost",, ,,, I think I'll put it where I can regularly see it, 😂🤣😢 All the best,, ps, I'm still using the doublestuff stone you gave me, 👍👍, cheers,, John

This flew way over my head. In the hand drawn sketches from the Home Slice you can see the micro-serrations being 23 microns. So why wouldn't I be able to strop these in with a coarse compound? There's obviously so much more I need to learn but at the same time it seems that most of the knife/sharpening community is just trial and error as well. To me it feels like some "official" knowledge is missing. Like researched textbook knowledge the way one could find it in any other field.

Looking to purchase my first stone to sharpen moras as a novice, my two options are DC4 or original Double Stuff. Which do you recommend? Also why not use the leather cover to stop? Thanks for the demo

how is 16 pounds cheap for a piece of wood and leather? I bought this too, but now i regret it. I can buy 3-4 times as much leather for the same price and use scrap wood to glue them to. And it takes no time to make these

Hi just came across your review (and channel). I need some help. I’m considering purchasing my first stone and was advised to purchase a DC4, but there’s mixed reviews on Reddit and now after your review, I’ve been deterred. Please can you recommend something to get me started. I’ll be using it for Stainless Steel Mora’s. Thanks in advance

Perfect. So start with 6 finish with 1 gotcha

Is it possible to deburr to that level with a diamond plate if you're gentle and thorough, or do you believe the UF ceramic to be crucial following the atoma?

NOW THAT'S AN UPGRADE! Thank you so much!

Try 70hrc Maxamet and Rex 121 next. 😂 Side note: with far less passes on Diamond it would be sharp.

I use a very old Sheffield Steel on one set of knives only: cheap lower HRC kitchen knives that get knocked around in the drawer. 😂 As far as steels go it’s quite good. I’ve experimented with other hardness knife steels and just don’t like it at all.

Unless knives are ground wet then every edge on every knife by every company is burnt, to what degree depends on many factors; too many to list here. To grind a blade without coolant running over the blade and belt takes an _extremely_ long time as it’s one light pass, water dunk, one light pass, water dunk, etc, etc. I know of less than a handful of knife makers worldwide (Japan being the exception where they use Waterstone wheels a lot) that grind wet to avoid burnt edges, brittle edges, and many sharpenings on the customers part to get to stable steel. The knife industry is a bad joke.

I use Diamond plates dry and use pencil erasers to clean them.

Atoma are the best of the best. DMT are great as well but Atomas are higher quality.

I have a bunch of these as well. Overall they’re not very good; they don’t last long and some come with the ceramic side glazed when brand new. DMT are way nicer. Spyderco pocket stones are way overpriced for what you get. You can get double sided dual grit DMT 4” or 6” plates, which are superior. I use Atoma and DMT for Diamond and pocket abrasives, respectively. (I ain’t shoving an Atoma in my pocket 😂 )

Getting the whole blade to a uniform finish is very simple, it just takes experience which comes from practice and doing it countless times. Be it satin # 600 or polished makes no difference. For polishing to a uniform finish the easiest and fastest way is to use waterstone powder and Diamond pastes (separately, of course). It takes longer than a satin finish but nothing excessive. You use them on small pieces of rice paper and polish with your fingers. For the satin, it’s # 600 wet and dry sandpaper taped over a hard leather strop and it can be done without damaging the apex. I agree about BRKT. Nice designs but with a terrible fabrication and heat treatment record. If you get a good one it’s a great knife but bad ones seem to be the rule. I own quite a few myself and only got one dud. I won’t be testing my luck with them again. If anyone wants to see how they power grind knives check my Cliff Stamp playlist, right down the bottom. You can see they use no cooling/no wet grinding. When they dunk the knife in water and pull it out it releases steam! That is far too hot for an apex only point microns thick. If I want a new convex knife I just buy a scandi I like and re-grind it (wet/cooled).

Nice: Maybe they want the blade to test themelves. Suspicious: Making it complicated so you don't send it in.

"Good enough for government work." The other videos dull the knife too much, of course the steel can't save that. And even in a kitchen a knife needs stone sharpening sometimes. There are now honing rods with fine diamonds that wouldwork better. Another thing about big kitchens: Your stuff will get used by someone else, your invested time in the perfect edge will get wrecked by someone. Personally I just hate the edge off a honing steel.

Thanks, I thought I was going mad. I have been messing around with 400-600 grit diamond stone edges as of late (with normal sharpening stones I feel like it's half as agressive as diamonds are, my 2k diamonds look like what you get from a 1k shapton). It always was easier for me to get polished edges but I wanted to try out toothy, and as you say, any time I strop the teeth go away fast. I found I had to practically leave it as it comes from the stone. A rough side strop without compound can work too. EDIT: Someone said to use fine stropping compound and that this works, but even my 0,25µm diamond strop pulled the teeth fast. The reasons for toothy trials for me were: Firstly on 440C it's relatively hard for me to get a good razor (compared to 12C27, AUS8, carbon or even D2 and S90V) and since toothy is faster I wanted to see if I like it better. Still not 100% sure I like toothy better than polished. Secondly I found an old, cheap knife that can't handle a razor edge, it dulls instantly, and I wanted to see if teeth help. It's probably 55HRC 420 steel and the teeth actually don't prolong edge retention by much. The steel needs to have the standing potential as well, else it don't matter much.

Good stuff thanks, DMT whetstone along with a no name diamond steel serviced me well, nobody's got time for that or can afford a set of good stones... Norton aluminum oxide combination oilstone now in my home, picking up another diamond stone... Great video with a good perspective. Thanks take care

Mr Gunny told me that the reason poly is superior in this application is because of poly particles being rounder so they roll around more and better aligns themselves with the scratch pattern and microserratations in the edge, as well as cutting better due to poly particles having more facets. Been trying to find a source to confirm this but havent managed to so far. My experience so far has been that good quality compound with high concentration of diamonds in it is far superior to cheap ones where theres nowhere near as much diamond nor consistancy in particle size, but I havent found poly to perform better than mono. Interesting topic though, I genuinly wonder if there is anything to it when the fracturing element is taken out of the equation

Have you considered attacking the larger diamond grain directly with a sharp tool of some sort or a damond tip even so you pull it out even if this means that some minor damage will be done on the stone locally?

I enjoy the content on your channel a lot. I think you deserve much more views and subscribers.

what knife is that at 8:16 ?

Ahhh yes, yes please do a sharpening video with this stone as ive owned it for a couple of years now grabbed one when they were first released thinking it'd be great bearing the Spyderco name n all and I've only used it less than half dozen times because I just did not like the feedback, feel or the results that I had gotten with it! Heck id equate the "fine" side to a 325-400 grit finish at best even using the light handed quicker strokes method to try and get some kind of a polish out of it... No such luck and she's collected dust ever since, smh it doesn't even work well as a major chip remover or for removing a lot of material so I'm not sure what it could be useful for if anything 🤔🤷‍♂️

Just got one, cannot fault it for the money!

I think hogue was rushing to push magnacut onto the market and then didn’t adjust quickly when they got negative feedback. I’ve picked up 3 hogues this year in magnacut - 2 Deka and 1 sig K320 (had a few knives stolen so I went on a bit of a buying spree). Had a friend check them - 62.9, 63.1, 63.2 which is dead middle of the advertised spec range. It’s really disappointing that they fouled up on the sprint run. They should have at the very least, paid for shipping the knife back to them. They got their shit together eventually, but that doesn’t help all the people with below-spec blades.

That’s how I’ve sharpened all my convex edges and I just keep going up grits if I don’t want the scratches left on the blade. I can usually stop at 3000-5000 grit and then strop 4, 1, .5, and .25 and the edge is almost like a mirror.

This was awesome.

How do you feel about Jende's "Nanocloth?" It's an interesting design, but on the pricey side...

you need to pay *lots* more attention to the angle ... rounding over the edge helps nothing. Also, depends on what stones you used - your strop maybe coarser than your final stone. 6 micron is JIS 2000, 3 micron is JIS 4000, 1.2 micron is JIS 8,000

😂🤡

I see your own strops are currently out of stock, I just wondered if you recommend the BeaverCraft ones (which I plan to use with your blue 1 micron compound)? 👍

Here I am all confident in my sharpening and now I’m thinking am I under stropping!?

the second you showed the first picture of that knife i immediately knew that that blade was VERY OBVIOUSLY a knife someone destroyed trying to sharpen and then made a return on. the fact you didn’t immediately figure that out and instead blamed fallkniven for that and then proceeded to go on a totally non constructive rant crying as if this knife (that again was very clearly destroyed by another person and didn’t leave the factory that way) was intentionally made badly and then sent to you specifically as some kind of personal attack. you also said you ‘couldn’t be bothered to send it back’ ??? you got a secondhand knife that some novice ruined, blamed fallkniven for something another person did, didn’t even send it back to the dealer for a replacement and yet you think the problem is fallkniven lmfao? also those rolls in the edge you complained about are 100% a failure of your sharpening of the knife not the knife itself. you could’ve made the edge much too thin, or not properly debuted it. this video is just beyond stupid.

Ok you did not like it. Move on.

Will any soft wood work?

What’s the best ( or your favorite) strop material?

Where can I buy a really nice stone holder?

The hardest blade I’ve ever sharpened was a Sandrin Knives tungsten carbide blade. It was HRC 71! I like this knife more though

You sound like a very spoiled person. They offered you to replace your knife with a new one. That's good customer service. Of course you need to send the defective one back for an exchange. That's how returning a product for a replacement works. You gotta be kidding!