@luisdias6868 It differs depending on what is wrong with it. In this video I'm more or less just giving some general tips to people on how they may fix their own tv. I'm not explaining top to bottom how to repair a tv. These parts are usually available on Ebay for ~$20, so its usually not the end of the world if you buy the wrong part. I've heard from comments some people say they saw their tv also used 2 small boards and just ordered both since it was so cheap. Not saying to waste money, just some people are willing to take the chance and want that option. Now some boards may show the voltage by the connector or wire, anymore its rare but it does happen. If for instance the connector says 5V and its outputting 3.5 or 0 volts, then yeah that's something to take into consideration. Something could be shorted out and is pulling the voltage down to 3.5, or the power supply could just be outputting 3.5v. There's far too much to consider for one small video.

@Electronicle In this power supply I had 3 burned components. fuse, and 2 transistors short circuited. I ordered these components, put them in place, the TV still doesn't do anything. is still dead. I just said it to see if you would know why?

@@luisdias6868 it sounds like those components are just being taken out by one or more other bad components that aren't visibly damaged. That is often the case when troubleshooting or just working on electronics. That's why we use various meters and scopes as tools to see what is going on under the surface. Have you checked for used working power supply boards on ebay?

need to troubleshoot the power supply. Good chance its just bad caps.

👍

depends on how its 'wired'. I say go one direction a tiny bit and see if there's any difference if not try the other. Yes there is a way to know but that takes the video to a whole other level and makes it not a 'simple' fix.

I haven't used any Gopro's other than what I showed in this video, except for a gopro 4. So unfortunately I'm not sure.

@@Valdan87 sounds like you have a short somewhere. Recheck all your solder joints closely

@ have you heard of them coming back from this? I’ve triple checked polarity to make sure I wasn’t going crazy

@@Valdan87 yeah, i mean it depends what shorted or what happened. Look at it this way. Its just a board with components. Just need to make sure all connections are good and there are no shorts or open traces. Then have to test components to see if any are bad. If an IC got cooked, it would have to be replaced. Don't feel bad this happens, its all part of the learning process. There's times where someone might work on the same model device for years and still things like this happen. I'm betting there's a tiny solder bridge somewhere that shorted something out. One thing you can do is find another gamegear on ebay thats the same model and combine the best parts from each to make yourself another. When you power it updoes it just not work or does it smoke? If it smokes, then follow from that location the traces around the board and make sure there aren't any shorts. Also it is possible that you have a shorted Capacitor. I've seen plenty of times brand new parts arrive bad. Don't remember what I did in the video, but normally I test everything before installing.

@@Electronicle After some research, the ZP37 on the power board was cracked. No 34v on the power pin anymore either, so I think it was that. I've got a replacement power board coming in. The new capacitors all checked good on the multimeter.

@Valdan87 excellent. Good job

Thanks for the comment! Glad it helped and you were able to fix yours.

You're welcome!

Haha thanks, I don't think anyone has ever referred to me as wacky..but hey i'll take it. And yeah Queen ruled. No one can replace Freddie.

try taking the remote apart, there will be a rubber membrane piece that is the buttons. Under it is the circuit board. Clean the board down gently with a cloth and some isopropyl alcohol. Wouldn't hurt to add a little to a qtip and clean the underside of the buttons on the rubber piece. Oils and dirt get between them and block the connection. Also clean the battery contacts with some isopropyl as well. If you have experience pulling stuff apart and fixing it, you'll have no problem doing this. Don't let the electronics part of it scare you, its really no difference at the end of the day. Sorta like points in a distributor . If they're corroded or dirty, there's no spark. Except here be gentle and use a qtip and rag, not sand paper. 😀Maybe i'll make a quick video one day showing how to do that.

@josepharagon8259 kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYvQg36Nhtd2ack Just posted this video...check it out. This is what I was talking about. Best of luck!

@@Electronicle I don’t think the problem is with the remotes bc both the remotes only work after I rub the television… it’s crazyeee. It also doesn’t pick up the wi-fi wirelessly,

@@josepharagon8259 very strange. Yeah I'm sorry I'm not sure what to make of that one.

@PeteRFNY hey thanks! Well to replace the audio head you also have to replace the control head..its all in the same part. Its not hard to replace if you have an identical replacement part, however you will need to align it properly otherwise the tape won't track properly and at the very least the audio won't sync up with the video. 12voltvids did a video about this. He purposely screwed up the alignment of all the heads and then showed how to realign with no equipment other than a screwdriver. I'd take a look at his channel. I don't have the link on hand but I know its there. He was a sony tech for many years. Also I just thought of this, 'newer' vcr's usually skimped out on the linear audio portion figuring you'd just be using hifi audio. Linear audio can sound 'ok' on a good machine, but most of these combo units and cheaper vcr's from the 2000's often have awful linear audio quality. Other than redesigning a new audio preamp, there isn't much you can do. Years ago I had a Panasonic with linear stereo and It actually sounded pretty good...not as good as a cassette tape but definitely not awful like it sounds on modern decks. Sorry I know this is long winded and hope it was of some help, but if interested definitely check out 12voltvids. Best of luck!

@Electronicle Haha understood! These units are both Sonys and look like the same model but with different numbers. If you take the lids off, the insides are identical. One sounds fantastic but looks terrible. The other sounds terrible but looks great (I'm playing 40-year-old tapes on it that look freaking amazing but the audio is muffled). Hence my conundrum. I'll take a look and see how adventurous I want to get. Thanks for the helpful feedback! 🙂

@@PeteRFNY I wish you the best. Don't be stupid like me and use your cherished unreplaceable tapes as test tapes while you tinker. That was many many years ago but I'm still kicking myself for it. You could try swapping the video drum/head to the bad video machine. Maybe it just has a bad head.

Thanks

@Tristand0920 I (for some reason) rendered it at 24fps. Didn't realize it until after I uploaded it. I believe that's where its coming from. The original footage files are fine. Sorry about that.

@@Electronicle ah I gotcha, makes sense

@Alphadec I will in part 2. The Blue gear is on order, so I'll have to pull it all apart again to install it. Also gotta recap the power supply, when it warms up it really stinks. Might also be the reason for the dim display. Checked the outputs and there's tons of ripple.

Ho ordinato da un magazzino di terze parti. Non ho mai ordinato da lì prima, quindi aspetterò prima di dare queste informazioni. Voglio prima assicurarmi che siano affidabili.

Thanks or the info! I heard that from someone else as well, wasn't sure if it was true. Shame they didn't just make it out of metal.

Same, trying to diagnose my mom’s curved 60 inch QLED. It actually displayed an image showing to connect power to both the TV and the box that the AV/Ethernet connects to. I get a red light and it flickers just ever so dimly. Could have been from storms. Maybe it’s the infrared sensor. I’m really curious if I can fix myself given I’ve got experience with some electronics repair.

if it all happened after recapping that's where you should look first. May want to reflow all the joints, its possible that when you pulled one of the old caps out, it took out the pad on top of the board. That's where I would start. On the top of the board follow any traces that go to the capacitors. Check for continuity by placing one probe on the solder joint on the bottom of the board and then check the trace on top. If that makes sense. The traces have a thin coating so you can scrape a little of the coating away so the probe can hit metal.....or just follow it until it connects to another component and measure from there. Hope that makes sense. Best of luck! Let me know how it turns out.

Sounds like its not registering the door being closed. If you tell it to close the tray and hold it in place it'll give up and then eject. So either its not closing fully (bad gear, belt or something in its way) or the switch/sensor that detects the drawers closed is bad or has a corroded connector. Also could be dust/dirt in the grease under the drawer where the gear is, making it too hard to pull in so it gives up. Sorta like old power windows in cars, they get really slow..most of the time its not a bad motor at first, but a dirty track/old grease.

pull the platter out and look at the gear underneath and make sure no teeth are damaged. Also you need to figure out how it detects each disc position on your model. Sounds like its not detecting and just keeps spinning waiting to receive that signal. Sorry I'll admit I'm not good at answering questions without seeing it myself.

Have you checked that proper voltages are being output by the power supply? Often failures in power supplies aren't complete failures, but it'll output say 12 volts but the 5 volt or 3.3v output is dead. This would cause it to partially work.

@@Electronicle NO I haven't I can ck it but not sure where to ck