Thanks for the video! Now I can eliminate these useless functions. I thought the control circuit was next to the on/off button.

Nice and simple mod. But as for me, I would end up by placing some simple (linear) current driver for the LED. Because, when the battery is fully charged, the LED is stressing from high uncontrollable current which slowly kills it. For that purpose you can use, say, popular AMC7135 chip. It will maintain the current under 350mA and lower when the charge is depleting. Also, if the battery has no built-in protection, it should be good to use some voltage supervisor (or any other cut-off IC which is getting triggered at 2.8V to avoid the deep, deadly discharge level).

No le veo la diferencia ni lo util

Why even take the components out, just place a jumper (resistor lead) across it, takes 1/10th the time, been doing this for a decade now.

Wow, hacking a flashlight to be a... well, a flashlight. Genius! That's NOT what "hacking" means BTW.

This annoying intermittent feature bothered me for years. I could solve it thanks to this video. You rock!!

Servers pls no tents 😂

I would say that a bad fuse is one that doesn't blow when it should, and a blown fuse did its job. ;-)

Be careful though, as that transistor inside the IC had some resistance too, so the LED had not just 0.25 Ohm in the feed line, but somewhat more.

There is a line between genius and madness and this makes me think you have one foot on either side. 😄

Sadly to be so bright... they have chosen to overpower the led.... thats why there are often two brightness levels..95% and 110% when it flashes it intermittently gives its highest level ( overpowered) so by converting it to allways come on at over power level.. rather than the second dimmer level.. So whats the difference ? At the dimmer level the LED can last for 1000 hours of use... at 95%.. At the overdriven highest level, the LED will burn out before a couple of hours total use. 110% then 0%.... ok if you only use it for 5 minutes at a time it will work for 25 cycles of 5 minutes before it starts to degrade permently. Once it degrades it will give only 50% light or fail completly... Wiring it directly, also means NO REGULATED CURRENT CONTROLE. So now a freshly fully charged battery will be even more likley to burnout the LED. Add to this the poor cooling with loose heatsink fittings and no water tight seal, just how long do you think it will actually last...20 hours, 10 hours, 5 hours 5 minutes... If you have a led torch use the 2nd brightness level, it will survive 50 times longer.. use only full power for very short bursts or avoid completly... f5vhz

12:10 What does this lamp assembly do?

My problem is I've about 10 dmm's but only one phone. So a fuse is statistically closer to a dmm than it is to my phone 😂😅

.... I didn't expect that, but it's so obvious

😂

cool

Interesting to see that it still takes a full team 2 days of work to dismantle and ready for transport.

Holy shit you make 6k a day 🤯

Practice made him perfect...good job

Eliminate the cap and it should work the same but keep the undervolt protection (if any exists)

Ich glaub du bruchsch neui Schiischuhe 🥴

Wieso verschrotten? Ich hätte den gerne genommen 🥸

It's a design feature - as you age your ankles get weaker, so, they have designed it to progressively absorb more energy by breaking more easily. A maker to be trusted.

👍

That's the marker of chinesium addition to the plastic bases mixture.

Won Hung Lo brand ski boots there.... Either that or lots of heavy use of plasticizers.

I loved watching this.

👏👏👍

Was issn das für eine scheiss synchronisation?

Now you can just buy a smallish gaming PC and get more performance than this.

I love how we have had PCI/add-on cards guides and support, but non-business case manufacturers and manufacturers of consumer GPUs still refuse to make use of that technology, but still use it for business products

one like from Brazil. Very good

I was not ready for the whole stage to transform into a trailer. Neat design.

can it run/play doom or crysis

I work for a company in the US that makes Truss, corner blocks, and some stage stuff. I don't get to see it much outside of our building so it's cool to see a time lapse like this! Thanks!

Around 10 years ago I wanted one of these, but they were still going for quite a lot despite being very outdated even back then. I ended up finding a stupidly good deal on a DL580 G5, which was pretty similar but half the number of CPUs. I still have it, but a single old E5-V4 can out class it, so it's in a museum section of a rack being used as a shelf.

Wow, what a beast, cant imagine how much power did it consume

good build quality :) What OS did a beast like this had then it was in use?

It's a felony for you to just tear it apart without giving it a last boot showdown in the video.

First I thought (would be nice to have and play around with it), but then I saw the RAM and the CPU and thought: "nah, can keep it for yerself!" 😀

pleeeeease turn it on too (with sound) and show cinebench or something ^.^

I stumbled upon the same fault once before, also a single layer board.

I would love some of those Opterons for my CPU collection and some of those PSUs :)

Thanks for your excellent video. I have 5 of these flashlights, and the most annoying thing is all the modes. The second most annoying thing was I could not figure out how to open it. Your video made clear how to disassemble it. Much appreciated.

When recycled plastic becomes more of an art, than a science

Hi thanks for the videos. What happens to all the junk. Cheers

The wrong type of snow?

holy... 7.2kW, I doubt I could run that from a single outlet in my home xD

Et Voilà encore cette voie de Robot de Merde qui dit E E E🤖🤖👽👽👽

Solid!