It doesn't appear you have an ice layer, and you can see how easily it comes off with the broom. If you already own one, I think (may be wrong) that a leaf blower would do you wonders.

Leaf blower

It may be the biggest, but it's definitely not the most reliable. High-frequency, transformerless inverters like this one offer a shorter life expectancy, and a much poorer surge capacity. And because these low-cost (cheap) inverters don't have an output transformer to provide galvanic isolation, they can damage your off-grid home's appliances when their MOSFETs fail. Don't take my word for it; ask Google AI the following question: Can a high-frequency, transformerless inverter damage your appliances?" and learn the truth about these crappy inverters.

Why is the ground/neutral bond not at the first disconnect? It needs to be in the grid boss.

Bothe the GridBOS and FlexBoss will be here this week. I am debating installing them myself but wanted to know how does the GridBOSS deal with the GFCI requirements especially double pole CB.

There is still one to one sell back in West Virginia. Maybe I should move there. How do you connect solar panels with micro inverters and 120v to the Gridboss?

Just confirming but wanted to make sure that this wouldn't sell back to the grid

The GridBoss is on my shopping list, and Smart Load ports are great. I’m also a big fan of smart panels like the SPAN, but when it comes to load shedding, they’re not perfect. I present to you three such instances, and some proposals to move forward. Example 1: I have a deep water well pump 760ft into the ground that sends water another 100 ft up a hill to a storage tank. The well pump is managed and protected from dry-run by a pump controller, all on a 50A circuit. The system is great at pulling decent current for long durations, but there’s one thing you’re not supposed to do with it… shut off the breaker while it’s running. Doing so can cause damage, and some pump controllers will show an error code and not start again until the error is acknowledged by pressing a button on the controller. It would be safer to stop a running pump by intercepting the tank float sensor circuit with a relay that could then be controlled (maybe wirelessly?) by the load management system. A general-purpose relay that’s configurable like a Smart Load port would be really helpful. Example 2: Smart Wifi-connected water heaters lose their smarts when turned off at the breaker. Rheem has EcoNet, and I’m sure other appliance manufacturers have their own network-connected protocols. Wouldn’t it be great if you could connect your EcoNet account to EG4 so the EG4 load management controller could reach out over the network to turn down the set temperature or even turn it up when there’s too much energy coming in? Example 3: Folks with a Tesla v3 Wall Connector and Tesla Powerwall enjoy the ability to set limits on their vehicle charging when grid power goes down to protect the batteries from being depleted. The Tesla Backup Gateway communicates over a network and stops charging without ripping the power away from the vehicle. Who doesn’t love getting woken up by a “Charging stopped at 2:45am with battery at 65%” message on their phone because the Smart Load port hits a threshold and kills the whole circuit? Tesla has an API that controls charging over the internet, seams like an easy win to include that integration in a future EG4 firmware update. The aforementioned solutions to all three of these problems don’t burn up any Smart Load ports, provide more elegant load shedding, and could add functionality and value to existing EG4 hardware already in service.

Thank you, looking forward to watching your progress going forward. I wish to do something similar incorporating 10k of pv to the Flexboss and tying it together with my existing 12k ac coupled panels. Question, if you use one of the smart ports to tie in my ac microinverters, can you still use the other smart ports in the manner you described? Does attaching AC coupling negate being able to use the smart ports as you described? Much appreciated.

Systems like this you could say screw you utilities, especially when they hate solar!!!

I enjoy your videos! 1) Have you tried Wago connectors instead of wire nuts? They have versions for #10 AWG and #12/#14 AWG. I like them much better than wire nuts. 2) I’m thinking the new AbleEdge Smart Panel, MID and smart breakers about to be released by Eaton will obsolete the GridBoss. Have you seen that gear yet? 3) I watched a video on KZbin (I know, I know) that said the servers EG4 uses to store and process the data for customer setups and ongoing usage is not hosted in the USA. Do you know if this is true? Please keep up the great work!

Well done - I have mine all set up as well however ran into a little snag with the firmware update on the Gridboss I am not sure if it got stuck or something. I did have Signature Solar tech support on the phone and they started and completed the firmware update for me. However the Gridboss is not accepting all the setting changes for some reason and they are looking into it I guess this last firmware from EG4 has some known issues. I did not see your batteries under the solar icon, I have a red exclamation on mine as if it is not seeing the 5 indoor wall mounts that I have. Any thoughts on what i might try doing as well while I wait for Signature Solar and EG4? I am considering the nuclear option and that is powering everything down and bring the system on line as it says in the manual with the Felxboss 21 (no grid power) then the Gridboss waiting for all the lights to come online and then add the Grid power to see if that "refreshes" anything from a "hard rest" kinda thing. I have completed the reset option already with the app and on line, with Signature Solar and that has not worked I think the Firmware just did not fully install properly but looking for all ideas as well. Thanks for your awesome videos nice to see someone with good communication skills explaining slowly how to complete this complex task. Trying to stay warm in south east Idaho.

I have purchased the GridBoss and Flexboss21 and one battery. Before my electrician gets here I have been planning where to mount each of these devices relative to my 200 breaker panel. My question concerns the spacing dictated my the electrical code, which I read as saying that there must be 30 inches of open space on both sides of the breaker panel. Your install clearly does not have that spacing. What am I missing? Thanks.

I have my smart breakers connected to EV chargers and my AC/Heat Pump. Turning on and off on SOC of the power pro batteries. Works flawlessly.

Can you set the smart port to only turn on when the grid is down? I'm looking to backup another small panel (besides the 200a output) when the grid power goes down.

Thx u

So can you modify the Grid Boss settings when you have no internet connection or does it require a connection to a hosted site maintained by EG4 electronics?

Great video and design by EG4. This looks like the way to wire and use solar. My next questions are (1) can I run this app locally without ever connecting to EG4 or ever sharing any system or usage data online and (2) who is EG4 as a company?

I thought I had down loaded your wiring diagram, signed up on your site, when I went to download the diagram I got a message stating it was already signed up and I couldn’t download it. Any advice? I have the Flexboss and thinking about purchasing the Gridboss but wasn’t clear on the power wiring from each unit and panel in relation to grid tie and how you wired your entire system.

I see you changed how you wired your communication cables between Flexboss and gridboss with two cables now. Did you also change the DIP pins on the Flexboss?

Another excellent summary of these EG4 device's capabilities. My understanding is that as long as I do not send any power back to the grid I will not need an interconnect agreement or any utility "permission" to install this system. I intend to initially set it up as a back up power supply and add solar later.

At 4:18 the panel in GridBoss is open and your meter runs into the right 200amp disconnect. Is the empty spot on the left of that connection where an external generator is wired (example of a whole house unit)?

Yes did this just last week same way. Reason I built ground mount panel system, except I use a 16' painters pole extension with screw on broom attachment. Way to go!

great review

You should measure 3 ft from the tank, not 3 inches. Most equipment is sound rated at 1 meter. Also, you're in the near field of the source and it is harder to extrapolate from there.

Or build a defrosting system

Neat video! I am curious is the webui local? or cloud? In my area the internet goes down with the power, so I would be very interested in seeing the local only mode

Very interesting video, thank you. Wife and I just moved to the boonies of Wyoming and I'm trying to do just as you say. We are connected to the grid but our solar inverter can use grid power but I haven't set up net metering so I try to use every bit of the solar power to charge the batteries and run things in the middle of the day. We just installed the same Rheem Hybrid water heater. I replaced the 4500 watt elements with 1500 watt elements so I can run on them when I want (winter so I don't cool the inside of our home). I have the water heater programmed to only operate in the middle of the day so it uses our solar. We also installed mini splits for our home heat and an induction range for cooking. We do have a 500 gal propane tank which was great since we moved here with a gas dryer. I also installed a small propane heater in the wall for emergency if the grid power goes out so we can keep our batteries for up to three days.

Those dedicated plastic panel mounting are interesting, especially if you have rock beneath the surface (I am not sure where you are located). But anytime you DO NOT want to dig then this guy's video is worth watching just for the concept of not digging...kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHSseq19r6menqcsi=uPv42hykDmat5JTZ

Does it require a 15 amp breaker

This is one of the worst appliances i know of...consistently has performance issues

You get to use your homes central air system to heat allllll of that cold air you are pumping into the room!!! Imagine ALL that heat you are pumping in the water, your hvac gets to pump into the house. The upside, is the heat release from the shower, may negate a small amount of that.

Super nice looking install. Like the blue light.

I just bought these for my planned setup and I only got one battery so far like you. While reading and engineering the whole setup I noticed that the max output from a single battery is 200A even though it is parallel wired to the flexboss so that it could use 400A max. At least in my understanding you will not be able to exceed around 9-10kw on backup battery power only unless you add a second battery. Is that your understanding? This thing is a game changer, it solved so many of my issues. Love your channel.

Do you think i could run it fully off the grid with a tiny home

I'm doing a whole house backup, so I guess that comes from the flex boss load port.

I saw this tank at the wholesale yesterday and was curious about it.

In all honesty. These days solar panels are so cheap compared to a new heat pump water heater that might be finicky. with my system. I have it set up where the water heater runs on 120 V instead of 240. Reducing the power of the resistive heating element by 75%, additionally I have a relay that looks at the state of charge of my battery and only charges the water heater when I’m above 55 V on a 48V lifepo4. While not the most efficient A conventional resistive heating element Water heater will last till the the end of time . Heating elements are cheap and easy to replace. Especially if you’re running them at the lower voltage, they don’t get as hot and they won’t corrode as fast. A heat pump for a whole house climate control makes more sense than a heat pump water heater given the price point of current units. I just put the money into more panels which help with all aspects of the home not just hot water.

I think you want the disconnect switch between the house your sol ark and the grid. You don't want the grid to be able to backfeed the sol ark.

A+

Love the video and schematic! Any chance you will be doing the same for the FlexBOSS21?

400 amp service with 2 200A legs. Do I need one for each leg? Or will it back feed into the other leg as needed?

Just looking at a home generator so could it feed into the grid boss generator port? Thinking of have both generator and solar

A slip of the tongue? At timecode 4:17 you pointed at the grid boss and called it the flex boss. Not that it matters, but I discovered when using the Eaton breaker you reverse the L1 and L2 wires to be consistent.

I may be misreading this but the GridBoss user manual (page 32) seems to show two communication cables are required and the FlexBoss parallel dip switches should be turned on. I see you have only one com cable used. Can you explain? Also, a video showing all of your software settings would be useful to check against mine. I am having a couple of issues and trying to troubleshoot. Are you seeing the GridBoss graphics and output when you select the gridboss's serial number from the top tropdown? I get the gridboss graphics regardless of the serial number I select. Thank you for your videos and wiring diagram!

well i think this video helped me make my decision. thanks.

Is the inverter necessary for adding batteries only and not solar. Is the Gridboss the only thing necessary?

Whole house dehumidification is necessary in a high humidity climate. Most homes use AC to do this. Just saying some areas can’t get away with turning off ac at night.

So why do I have to see your face all of the video ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Your battery is at 27%.