Thank you for your video. My old 6.0 had two plugs on the hfcm. The new has only one. What the second plug is for? What would happen if i don't connect the second plug on the cfcm?
@toomanytoys21 күн бұрын
I've not seen an HFCM without at least two plugs: one for the fuel pump and one for the water in the fuel sensor. The early HFCMs had three plugs, the third for the fuel heater, which was a bad idea. So, assuming the one plug is for the fuel pump, without the water in the fuel sensor, you would not get a warning about water buildup. In that case, drain the HFCM with the water drain by removing the water drain plug at every oil change.
@ricardorodriguez-se7tp28 күн бұрын
Great video
@jahway1262Ай бұрын
How do I remove the heater hose along the fire wall??
@toomanytoysАй бұрын
The are two studs on the firewall that retain the hose across the back.
@RockwoodMaintenanceАй бұрын
What an amazing tip. I've been cranking wrenches for almost 40 years and never thought of such a simple idea. It just goes to show you never stop learning.
@RB-ng3jhАй бұрын
Hello, I am interested in repairing my 2006 Ford 6.0l engine with you, if possible, I need a way to communicate with you.
@toomanytoysАй бұрын
The best way is to join Powerstroke.org and once a member, you can initiate a private conversation or start a post and get input from everyone. I've rebuilt only one 6.0L, so I may not have all the answers.
@BruinHerr-bj7ukАй бұрын
I wish the fuel filters weren’t so expensive. Plus there are Chinese made counterfeits all over the internet. Also when you remove the cover you must plug all the fuel lines or the fuel can siphon out of the tank until your tank is empty.
@toomanytoysАй бұрын
DieselFilterOnline or RockAuto, either Motorcraft or Racor; Racor is the filter manufacturer that sells to Ford. If you are draining fuel from the tank, the anti-siphon valve (blue inside the filter area) is not working.
@dieseldork6Ай бұрын
Awesome video! Thank you for all of the information!
@toomanytoysАй бұрын
Your welcome.
@liftedjsmith2 ай бұрын
How come the Racor got thrown out at the end?
@colewilson3822 ай бұрын
Hey I know it’s a older video but I see you torqued the bed plate down 2 different ways. Are both sequences ok to do?
@toomanytoysАй бұрын
Good catch. One comes from the International manual, and the other from the Ford manual. The Ford manual has you sequence the two next to each other before going to the opposite side, the International goes across sides, back and forth. I've never found an answer for which is the better way.
@pakkelly2 ай бұрын
Very in depth analysis with inventive problem solving makes this video a must watch for anyone tackling the 6.0 fuel tank. Thank you.
@toomanytoys2 ай бұрын
Thank you for your compliment.
@brianthomas13772 ай бұрын
Excellent detail and information. Do you have a document that shows factory ground locations? Fighting an intermittent no crank situation…
@brianthomas13772 ай бұрын
2007 f350 6.0 lariat
@toomanytoys2 ай бұрын
My earlier video, which was the basis for this one, goes through all of that: Powerstroke 6.0L Electrical System Negative / Grounding locations kzbin.info/www/bejne/h4qwXn56atuBja8
@synnovevikstrom98412 ай бұрын
I proceeded with doing this and I've noticed some fall off at the edges of the cylinder bores and large hole features... Seems like the paper is sagging in the middle or pushing out at the corners where it folds, applying additional pressure to edges. Wondering if you noticed this when doing your block?
@toomanytoys2 ай бұрын
First, are you using a hard, flat surface for the paper to ride on? The surface must be free of any give, and the paper should be relatively tight. And the surface has to be as flat as you are trying to achieve. ANY convex or concave bow will cause an issue. The second is technique. You want to keep at or preferably below 50% of the tool from going past the edge of the block, and while going over the edge, put more pressure on the rear that is still over the block. In one video, I mentioned hand sanding vereer plywood being a good teaching tool. If you subconsciously push down in front or "roll over" the edge, you will get more abrasion at the edges. Superduty Service has a video of him using a bodywork air sander, which has a rubber surface between the paper and the bedplate. If you look closely at the block he does, you can see the falloff, the edges, and the cylinder. That is not what you want, and I would also not recommend the technique. I did have one corner of the block that rolled over. I noted it in the video where I used tracing paper to evaluate head-to-block contact. I mentioned it probably where I got lazy in my technique. However, it was the edge of the block, not at the seal around the cylinders, and the gasket would be compliant to make that seal. It's been fine for two years. It was also under 0.0002" fall off, even though the tracing/transfer paper showed it.
@deanmaypole42582 ай бұрын
Very good video sir, thank you
@toomanytoys2 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@smolscale2 ай бұрын
Hi do you still offer these for sale
@toomanytoys2 ай бұрын
Sorry, at this time, I'm not. I spend an hour for the Version 3 and almost 3 hours to get the Version 6 made and get them in the mailbox. I never had the intent of making money with these, but I don't have the time right now to do these, or to buy all the components and wait months to recoup my outlay. Maybe in the future if I have enough people on a wait list I may do it again.
@smolscale2 ай бұрын
@@toomanytoys no problem I can make my own
@synnovevikstrom98413 ай бұрын
Out of curiosity, why the RTV to seal the bedplate vs the anaerobic sealant?
@toomanytoys3 ай бұрын
Once I found out this crankshaft was mis-ground (later video) and started the replacement of the crank (another video), I found the anaerobic sealer did not fully cure everywhere I put it. Talking to Permatex initially, they said I did not need to use the primer, and during the second call, this was not the proper application for the anaerobic. I did not have an issue with the TA-31, which is made for use with HEIU engines and has the best grab of any RTV I've ever used.
@Jason-it5qc3 ай бұрын
Thank you for the detailed video much appreciated
@toomanytoys2 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@ruthless68703 ай бұрын
Great video helping people years later
@toomanytoys2 ай бұрын
Thanks.
@srkwixdraw3 ай бұрын
Love the Jethro Tull background music. “Locomotive Breath”
@Springfield-eo8jl4 ай бұрын
I'm lost..... But @TooManyToys has helped guide me! As the time of posting this dude has made 16,420 posts on FTE to help others! 16 THOUSAND...... 🤩
@Springfield-eo8jl4 ай бұрын
So if you were to summarize what your findings were for the best possible setup of ground cables what would it be? I commented on your video that preceded this one with the issues I am experiencing.
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
I just responded - sometimes I don't get to KZbin for a few days. It depends if you are enhancing the stock cabling, or going to redesign the entire system. For the FICM, running an 8ga wire from the driver's negative post to the FICM and PCM ground points should be done. If looking at ground cables only, the next would be a 1/0 cable from where the drivers ground cable connects to the frame rail, and run that to a point on the engine block. I have two other designs I plan to test in the future, but I got a lot in my way before that.
@Springfield-eo8jl4 ай бұрын
@@toomanytoys You are a life saver! I owe you a 6 pack of root beers! Going to order the cables and connectors tonight!
@Springfield-eo8jl4 ай бұрын
Looks like I'm going down the rabbit hole..... Had a hard rain yesterday and drove the truck 3-4 hours. Today no rain and now I have 4 fault codes (B1318, P0276, P0278, P0341) 3 of the 4 (B1318, P0276, P0341) are related to low voltage. I just installed a new 130 amp alternator with the smaller pulley and output at idle is ~14 volts. After the 4 hour driving yesterday and about 1 hour drive time today batteries are reading ~11.3 volts before cranking the engine. I know that anything under 12.6V can harm the FICM. Additionally, about a month ago I had the cab lifted about 6 inches to get the turbo out and install S&B body mounts, so I definitely need to check those flat braided cables.
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
With the draw of the glow plugs, that's a common voltage before hitting the starter. If you look at some of the graphs when I did alternator testing, you can see how the voltage changes during the "wait-to-start" point to when the glow plugs turn off.
@Springfield-eo8jl4 ай бұрын
@@toomanytoys Thanks for the reply! As an admission of me not being observant I have seen many of your 6.0 Videos, and have read many of your posts on FTE over the last couple years, but just put it all together this morning as I am reading one of your threads on FTE that all of it was you!
@Springfield-eo8jl4 ай бұрын
@@toomanytoys I had my engine "bullet proofed" by a local shop about 2 years ago and after I got it back I had 2 dead batteries, and within a month 2 burned (yes burned like scorched) Warren injectors, and have been chasing electrical gremlins since.... I've not taken the truck back to them as they caused more harm to my truck than good and I no longer trust them. After recently having a Cyl. 6 Imbalance code I replaced my FICM harness, VGT solenoid, and cleaned the inner turbo exhaust housing and replaced the unison ring as it had a "keyhole" going on, and did a couple pigtail fixes on some cracked wiring while I had it all apart. I'm at the point right now that I just want to redo as much of the wiring as I can and trying to get the ground issues fixed first.
@carlthornton30764 ай бұрын
Very Good!... #94 ✝ {4-22-2024}
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
Thank you.
@PaulYeager564 ай бұрын
AI voice is OK. Thanks for all you do from @MtnTallPaul.
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
Thanks Paul. Appreciate the comment.
@DeepSouthBayouDiesel4 ай бұрын
I actually just did this for my 02 F350 xl. I tied into my dome lights. Theres a black with blue tracer wire there as well. But this looks easier. My only question is: when you open say just the driver door, do all of the door panel lights come on?
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
Yes, they do, at least on my '03.
@DeepSouthBayouDiesel4 ай бұрын
@@toomanytoys thank you. That gives me some piece of mind👍
@chriskardys38404 ай бұрын
This is a great video
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
Thanks Chris. I appreciated it.
@troubleshooter65234 ай бұрын
When you made this video three years ago, the only people I ever watched on KZbin doing something like this were BS backyard. No one was using a profilometer to check the surface finish or show flatness, and no one really mentioned how critical surface finish is. Today, in 2024, I've found Powerstroke "Pros" using the method, although I would say not to the detail you have documented, and I don't think they know what they are doing. And I've seen shops and mechanics openly commenting they have 'sanded' decks where they never admitted it before. Thanks for making these videos and showing the way. It's still the most professional way I've watched.
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
Thanks. I don't watch much of what others do, but the few I have watched I've found lacking - don't understand the materials or methods.
@DrewMerrill-oj2ku4 ай бұрын
Are you a DIY or a Mechanic? I would love to bring my truck to you for diagnosis.
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
DIY on my own vehicles.
@andrewcrawford95324 ай бұрын
Just an awesome straight to the point video. Great Job. Your a life saver
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
Thanks - Glad it helped.
@themicdfiles18655 ай бұрын
Dealing with this right now and I've known there is some sort of battery issue. It's below freezing in Wyoming. Just got the truck out of the shop and two days later it was chugging and in a no start condition. I have two brand new batteries on the truck, but noticed corrosion on the passenger side positive cable. The lights flicker at night, especially under load. Great video! Now I have a place to start tracking this down.
@alanarmstrong23235 ай бұрын
Poppet seat is backwards 45 angle goes to popped shuttle or filter housing
@toomanytoys5 ай бұрын
If you are talking about the images at 34:36, those images came from Pete, and the problem part and the new part were both from a Ford dealer and how the seal was installed at the factory.
@alanarmstrong23235 ай бұрын
@toomanytoys the poppet looks the same I've tried but found no info on this you would think this would be easy it only has two sides
@MountaineerMontero5 ай бұрын
Love the deep dive into this subject. It’s something I’ve been looking into since purchasing my 05 Excursion two years ago. Your theory about it not being a bolt issue confirms my suspicion that “studs fix the HGs” is a flawed premise. My trucks was going on 296k with stock HG and bolts and never tuned. Only mod being an external oil cooler kit. Currently rebuilding it after finding one bent pushrod while tearing it down to fix an oil leak from the rocker housing gaskets. It still had the original length pushrods in it but with no lifter failure.
@toomanytoys5 ай бұрын
When the gaskets first started to fail, many did the Ford clean to the heads and installed the studs. If they still ran the tune, 20,000 to 25,000 miles later, many blew the gaskets again. When I talked to ARP, they stated the standard studs clamp load, preload, was about the same as the stock bolts, so there was no real difference in clamping pressure. Yet, those who had the heads milled flat had no issue. So studs didn't fix it, no-tunes or well-tuned trucks did have issues, and milled-flat heads were fine. The head bolts clamp down 4x the stock combustion pressure, a 4x1 safety factor. They are not going to stretch. If it sat for a while, one of the valve guides may have hung a valve, letting the lifter pump up on the next revolution and probably a light tap on the piston, enough to bend the pushrod. But pushrods are supposed to be the safety fuse in the valvetrain.
@MountaineerMontero5 ай бұрын
@@toomanytoys that’s a very possible explanation for the pushrod. We don’t drive the truck everyday and generally only use it when my whole family of 6 needs to go somewhere together. Unfortunitly the pushrod rubbed on the inside of the head and put some metal shaving through the oil. Found scaring on the LPOP, main and rod bearings. So it’s a full rebuild as I want this motor to go another 10+ years. The truck is in very good shape for its age. Thank for the reply!
@toomanytoys5 ай бұрын
I tried using my smoke machine to find the leak, but that did not work. So I used the vacuum of the shop vac and a microphone I hadn't used in quite some time, which was connected to my iPhone. There are many dB meter APPs for the iPhone, but this is just one. It worked very well to hunt for where the leak actually was. Utilizing a 3ft dowel rod with the setup was much easier than using a stethoscope. No reason to narrate over the vacuum squeal.
@jayjobes53445 ай бұрын
That is how I found my downtube had a crack in it. Right near the turbo but on the back side out of view. I used a commercial electronic kit to find the leak with a handheld microphone probe and a headset. But that even had issues, so I hosed it down with soapy water from a spray bottle and searched for the foam...
@python9293 ай бұрын
Hello and thank you for this video. I’m going to try this out. Could you recommend a microphone to get and where to buy one? Thank you
@toomanytoys3 ай бұрын
@@python929 I used an Olympus ME-15 Microphone I bought from Amazon years ago. But any microphone compatible with your cell phone will work, wired or wireless. I use wireless now for recording speech. And any app for your phone that measures decibels.
@kotech20035 ай бұрын
Excellent! Glad this was an easy one 👍🏻
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
And easy find,; a bear to get aligned...
@Adrenacyde5 ай бұрын
Not a word spoken, but much was taught. Thank you, -your Grilled Cheese friend from Canada :)
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
I didn't think I had to do much ....
@erickmedrano14665 ай бұрын
Awesome! Thanks for another awesome great video.
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
Thank you.
@jrhjk5 ай бұрын
Novice here: I would like to swap out my cam with a stage 2 and change out the lifters, Is it necessary to replace cam bearings when changing cams?
@toomanytoys5 ай бұрын
In general, it depends on the mileage. These engines are not known to wear out the cam bearings after 500k miles. My rebuilt engine had 75k on it, which looked like they kept the OE bearings in the block for however long it was run. Unless there was a serious oil contamination issue, I think most people are fine unless you have very high mileage.
@jrhjk5 ай бұрын
@@toomanytoysthank you sir! I love your content and the great detail you go into with everything you cover. I especially enjoyed your video detailing head gasket issues and head bolt clamping force.
@jrhjk5 ай бұрын
Great video as always
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
Appreciate that!
@twistedvestige5 ай бұрын
doorman 800-403 is the wrong part number for the heater core that was on my 03 f350. its too small and doesnt fit. needs one size bigger. not sure if its the original heater core, but the hoses are deff original. i did have enough hose to cut the connector off and hose clamp it onto the heater core though! hopefully this helps someone in a jam!
@user-xv4et9dw8t5 ай бұрын
Thank you for your patience to study these types of failures battery cables and much more electron flow was a dandy
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
Thank you.
@travisc56585 ай бұрын
Nothing in the video shows why u would have so low lift on number 8. Ive done hubdreds of 6.0 and 6.4l lifters and cams. When its bad, its bad, simpe as that. Top came apart or roller failed ans ate cam. No need to take a lofter apart or messure anyhring.
@toomanytoys5 ай бұрын
@@travisc5658 Nope.
@CustomJeep6 ай бұрын
I lost count of how many pieces of invaluable info you dropped in this video. Wow. This man has in-depth knowledge of the Superduty fuel supply system.
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful! I've played with these too much. LOL.
@CheapRidesAutoSales6 ай бұрын
If i only had a fraction of the knowledge this guy has, ill be the best mechanic in the country.
@toomanytoys4 ай бұрын
I'v ejust been around the block...a few times.
@shidukirider6 ай бұрын
Awesome video, really good information here. I work on these trucks all the time. I was seeking info like this once when I was replacing a sending unit for a friend. It must have been before your video was posted because at the time I felt like I was spending too much time figuring something out for fuel level sensor replacement so we just ended up getting the whole unit from ford. Not gonna do that anymore. Also, are your replies being limited on other comments? I was trying to chime in on someone’s amazon find but trying to warn everyone that there are a lot of counterfeit parts, especially motorcraft, on amazon, beware everyone.
@elliotische95376 ай бұрын
Well, my pick-up in the fuel take fell off/broke apart. Somehow found the entire Motorcraft Sending unit for $96 on Amazon because someone received it with damaged packaging. It turned out not being the correct part because it was for a 38 gallon tank where I have the 29 gallon tank. So, I did just as you did and I pulled the sending unit, wiring and pickup and put on the original! Works Great! Thank you for this Video!
@shidukirider6 ай бұрын
@@toomanytoys that was the one, let’s see if this comment goes thru. Was just trying to warn people when I can to be careful on there cause their are a lot of deep fakes, packaging, printing and even stamping of part numbers on the products. Maybe my previous mention of brands and website got flagged before, why my comment wouldn’t work