I've not seen an HFCM without at least two plugs: one for the fuel pump and one for the water in the fuel sensor. The early HFCMs had three plugs, the third for the fuel heater, which was a bad idea. So, assuming the one plug is for the fuel pump, without the water in the fuel sensor, you would not get a warning about water buildup. In that case, drain the HFCM with the water drain by removing the water drain plug at every oil change.

The are two studs on the firewall that retain the hose across the back.

The best way is to join Powerstroke.org and once a member, you can initiate a private conversation or start a post and get input from everyone. I've rebuilt only one 6.0L, so I may not have all the answers.

DieselFilterOnline or RockAuto, either Motorcraft or Racor; Racor is the filter manufacturer that sells to Ford. If you are draining fuel from the tank, the anti-siphon valve (blue inside the filter area) is not working.

Your welcome.

Good catch. One comes from the International manual, and the other from the Ford manual. The Ford manual has you sequence the two next to each other before going to the opposite side, the International goes across sides, back and forth. I've never found an answer for which is the better way.

Thank you for your compliment.

2007 f350 6.0 lariat

My earlier video, which was the basis for this one, goes through all of that: Powerstroke 6.0L Electrical System Negative / Grounding locations kzbin.info/www/bejne/h4qwXn56atuBja8

First, are you using a hard, flat surface for the paper to ride on? The surface must be free of any give, and the paper should be relatively tight. And the surface has to be as flat as you are trying to achieve. ANY convex or concave bow will cause an issue. The second is technique. You want to keep at or preferably below 50% of the tool from going past the edge of the block, and while going over the edge, put more pressure on the rear that is still over the block. In one video, I mentioned hand sanding vereer plywood being a good teaching tool. If you subconsciously push down in front or "roll over" the edge, you will get more abrasion at the edges. Superduty Service has a video of him using a bodywork air sander, which has a rubber surface between the paper and the bedplate. If you look closely at the block he does, you can see the falloff, the edges, and the cylinder. That is not what you want, and I would also not recommend the technique. I did have one corner of the block that rolled over. I noted it in the video where I used tracing paper to evaluate head-to-block contact. I mentioned it probably where I got lazy in my technique. However, it was the edge of the block, not at the seal around the cylinders, and the gasket would be compliant to make that seal. It's been fine for two years. It was also under 0.0002" fall off, even though the tracing/transfer paper showed it.

Thank you!

Sorry, at this time, I'm not. I spend an hour for the Version 3 and almost 3 hours to get the Version 6 made and get them in the mailbox. I never had the intent of making money with these, but I don't have the time right now to do these, or to buy all the components and wait months to recoup my outlay. Maybe in the future if I have enough people on a wait list I may do it again.

@@toomanytoys no problem I can make my own

Once I found out this crankshaft was mis-ground (later video) and started the replacement of the crank (another video), I found the anaerobic sealer did not fully cure everywhere I put it. Talking to Permatex initially, they said I did not need to use the primer, and during the second call, this was not the proper application for the anaerobic. I did not have an issue with the TA-31, which is made for use with HEIU engines and has the best grab of any RTV I've ever used.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks.

I just responded - sometimes I don't get to KZbin for a few days. It depends if you are enhancing the stock cabling, or going to redesign the entire system. For the FICM, running an 8ga wire from the driver's negative post to the FICM and PCM ground points should be done. If looking at ground cables only, the next would be a 1/0 cable from where the drivers ground cable connects to the frame rail, and run that to a point on the engine block. I have two other designs I plan to test in the future, but I got a lot in my way before that.

@@toomanytoys You are a life saver! I owe you a 6 pack of root beers! Going to order the cables and connectors tonight!

With the draw of the glow plugs, that's a common voltage before hitting the starter. If you look at some of the graphs when I did alternator testing, you can see how the voltage changes during the "wait-to-start" point to when the glow plugs turn off.

@@toomanytoys Thanks for the reply! As an admission of me not being observant I have seen many of your 6.0 Videos, and have read many of your posts on FTE over the last couple years, but just put it all together this morning as I am reading one of your threads on FTE that all of it was you!

@@toomanytoys I had my engine "bullet proofed" by a local shop about 2 years ago and after I got it back I had 2 dead batteries, and within a month 2 burned (yes burned like scorched) Warren injectors, and have been chasing electrical gremlins since.... I've not taken the truck back to them as they caused more harm to my truck than good and I no longer trust them. After recently having a Cyl. 6 Imbalance code I replaced my FICM harness, VGT solenoid, and cleaned the inner turbo exhaust housing and replaced the unison ring as it had a "keyhole" going on, and did a couple pigtail fixes on some cracked wiring while I had it all apart. I'm at the point right now that I just want to redo as much of the wiring as I can and trying to get the ground issues fixed first.

Thank you.

Thanks Paul. Appreciate the comment.

Yes, they do, at least on my '03.

@@toomanytoys thank you. That gives me some piece of mind👍

Thanks Chris. I appreciated it.

Thanks. I don't watch much of what others do, but the few I have watched I've found lacking - don't understand the materials or methods.

DIY on my own vehicles.

Thanks - Glad it helped.

If you are talking about the images at 34:36, those images came from Pete, and the problem part and the new part were both from a Ford dealer and how the seal was installed at the factory.

@toomanytoys the poppet looks the same I've tried but found no info on this you would think this would be easy it only has two sides

When the gaskets first started to fail, many did the Ford clean to the heads and installed the studs. If they still ran the tune, 20,000 to 25,000 miles later, many blew the gaskets again. When I talked to ARP, they stated the standard studs clamp load, preload, was about the same as the stock bolts, so there was no real difference in clamping pressure. Yet, those who had the heads milled flat had no issue. So studs didn't fix it, no-tunes or well-tuned trucks did have issues, and milled-flat heads were fine. The head bolts clamp down 4x the stock combustion pressure, a 4x1 safety factor. They are not going to stretch. If it sat for a while, one of the valve guides may have hung a valve, letting the lifter pump up on the next revolution and probably a light tap on the piston, enough to bend the pushrod. But pushrods are supposed to be the safety fuse in the valvetrain.

@@toomanytoys that’s a very possible explanation for the pushrod. We don’t drive the truck everyday and generally only use it when my whole family of 6 needs to go somewhere together. Unfortunitly the pushrod rubbed on the inside of the head and put some metal shaving through the oil. Found scaring on the LPOP, main and rod bearings. So it’s a full rebuild as I want this motor to go another 10+ years. The truck is in very good shape for its age. Thank for the reply!

That is how I found my downtube had a crack in it. Right near the turbo but on the back side out of view. I used a commercial electronic kit to find the leak with a handheld microphone probe and a headset. But that even had issues, so I hosed it down with soapy water from a spray bottle and searched for the foam...

Hello and thank you for this video. I’m going to try this out. Could you recommend a microphone to get and where to buy one? Thank you

@@python929 I used an Olympus ME-15 Microphone I bought from Amazon years ago. But any microphone compatible with your cell phone will work, wired or wireless. I use wireless now for recording speech. And any app for your phone that measures decibels.

And easy find,; a bear to get aligned...

I didn't think I had to do much ....

Thank you.

In general, it depends on the mileage. These engines are not known to wear out the cam bearings after 500k miles. My rebuilt engine had 75k on it, which looked like they kept the OE bearings in the block for however long it was run. Unless there was a serious oil contamination issue, I think most people are fine unless you have very high mileage.

@@toomanytoysthank you sir! I love your content and the great detail you go into with everything you cover. I especially enjoyed your video detailing head gasket issues and head bolt clamping force.

Appreciate that!

Thank you.

@@travisc5658 Nope.

Glad it was helpful! I've played with these too much. LOL.

I'v ejust been around the block...a few times.

@@toomanytoys that was the one, let’s see if this comment goes thru. Was just trying to warn people when I can to be careful on there cause their are a lot of deep fakes, packaging, printing and even stamping of part numbers on the products. Maybe my previous mention of brands and website got flagged before, why my comment wouldn’t work