Other than the network chip on your Yamaha gone out, I don't know.

I can't say I have had to replace C37 before. Is it right next to the Q4 transistor? PS for Q4 to work for a long time and not fail again you also need to replace the resistor on the power supply daughter board as shown in the video. That one is much smaller than the capacitor that flew away. Next time I open up a DS1815 I will take a look at it's capacitance and let you know it's specs.

Top and bottom temps depend on your mahcine. If you use the same temps I do, it won't work for you. Yes there are bench testing tools we use. Some are better than others.

It depends on if the chip we replace it one that has software. If your sent it in to us, and it's the one I am thinking of that we are waiting for a new part to arrive, it is not a chip that contains software so it should be plug and play.

My temps work for my machine, they won't work for yours. Practive one bad boards get a feel for what works and what doesn't. Practice makes better. There is no short cut answer I can give you.

This is the title of the listing I purchased essentially Car ECU Cover Open Tool Aluminum Alloy Iron ECU Cover Opening Extractor Removal Tool I bought them from Amazon, here is the link: amzn.to/4c9XO0O

This is the title of the listing I purchased essentially Car ECU Cover Open Tool Aluminum Alloy Iron ECU Cover Opening Extractor Removal Tool I bought them from Amazon, here is the link: amzn.to/4c9XO0O The BGA rework machine is ZM-R5860C

Yes this exact failure also happens to the DS1812+ units. If you want to send in your unit for repair we do service those even if it has a different problem.

At this time no because we haven't found a good supplier of replacement screens. Usually that's the screen itself going bad and needs to be replaced.

No, we use leaded as it will have a stronger bond between the component and PCB and be less likely to crack or fail over time. The issue is not that the component gets hot. The temperatures don't get above 80C near the components, the issue is the thermal cycles and difference in temperature between the unit being off and on. So if this oven was operating between absolute 0 and 0 Celsius aka freezing, you would still get cracked solder joints. The problem is the thermal expansion and contraction between the low temp when the unit is off and the high temp when the unit is on. The molecules of the PCB expand and contract at different rates than the solder and the leg of the component. This different rate of expansion and contraction is what stresses the joints and over time causes the cracks. The bigger the difference between the lowest and highest temp the more expansion and contraction you get and thus the more likely you are to get a cracked joint. This is why the items that get the hotter get the more cracked joints because the off state of the oven brings all components to the same temp aka room temp and the parts that get the hottest get the highest amount of expansion and contraction stress. Does that make sense?

I flipped the circuit breaker and it works again... (breaker was fine, not tripped)

This is the induction one correct? I have not had to repair one of these before as it is still very new and thus has not had many failures yet. But if the failure occurs again, and flipping the breaker doesn't resolve it I would recommend looking in the owners manual to factory reset it and if that till doesn't work, then reach out to us again. Would most likely need to have you send in that control panel for repair.

usually it's between 380c and 450c depending on the unit I work on and the tip I am using.

Do not attempt this repair at home, we are professionals with almost 30,000 repairs under our belt. We have a lot of experience and while we make it look easy, there is a lot more going on than what you see on screen. Temps are not a one-size-fits-all-all. It would be a bad idea for you to use the same temps we do. Either the temps will be too low and nothing will flow for you or worse the temps might be too high and you will break the device you are trying to fix. You have to fine-tune your own machine and find the sweet spot. Use broken circuit boards that are low value or trash that you don't care about to fine-tune the temp settings. You should not be experimenting and learning how to properly rework a flip chip using this ECM. Once you are confident in your temperatures and can get good results repeatedly on a bad board, then you can start working on a good board you are trying to fix. Again I would recommend you become proficient on low-cost boards, not this ECM.

I cheated off a good one. We have fixed hundreds of these so we have marked all the expected voltages in certain areas of the board to help with future troubleshooting.

@@NicksElectronicRepair great! Not cheating, just being efficient. 😉 I will contact/call you about my possible problem with our electric stove. Thanks!

Sounds good, we will do what we can to help, but just FYI we were closed during the holiday weekend and had over 150 emails and lots of phone calls none stop today. So we are getting back to everyone as fast as we can but I only have a small team so we are doing our best to get back to everyone and answer all calls as fast as we can.

​@@NicksElectronicRepairtotally understand. No hurry on my end. We don't use the oven often and it works, just an annoyance that will probably get worse... Thank you!

No problem

Good point! I'm assuming you meant "donor" boards. You can use the triple-dot menu ("...") to correct or just update your postings. 🙂👍

@@bobblum5973 Good catch for the "donor". Thanks 😁👍

Yup absolutely.

I hope so

Sorry for the late reply, we were closed down for the holiday weekend until now. I am unsure if the CMOS replacement would do the trick but it's worth a try. Let me know how it goes

@@NicksElectronicRepair so I did pull it apart. Resistor was done from factory, I did check the battery and it was showing 0.9v and I did change that. But doing so unfortunately. Stopped the machine from booting up again. It appears the transistor needs to be changed. I definitely don't have the skills to solder that. It's currently booting fine with the PSU jumper to bypass the power button. I think I will continue to run like this until hopefully there is a new model and then I will upgrade.

Well if you do want to send it in for repair, we offer a full refurbishment service. We would replace several parts including parts that have not yet failed and do modify the power supply as well to help prevent future failures from happening as well. Your DS1815+ unit could have many more years of service if you have us refurbish it and of course we give a 1 Year warranty with all of our repairs. This would be much much cheaper than buying a new or used unit. If you are interested I have the link to our flat rate service below: nickselectronics.com/products/ds1815

Were you able to fix it?

Glad it helped!

Thanks for watching!

Just tinkering. Bought a broken TV on craigslist one day and googled how to fix it. Thought it was a lot of fun to fix it so I kept doing it until I started a TV repair business, then more general electronics and here we are 9 years later

It's possible your CPU may need to be replaced. This is a repair we perform and can do for you if you would like. We have done it for around $145 in the past including parts, labor and a 1 year warranty. Just reach out to us via the contact info in the video description

You are welcome!

Is this perhaps a front control where the circuit board is subject to excessive heat from the oven? The heat doesn't need to melt the solder, just abuse it with thermal expansion and contraction. I'm just speculating and would love feedback from an expert.

​@@KeithHanlanthat's a mighty good theory, IMO

The unit sits on the front yes but it's well isolated from the oven so it shouldn't get to much heat from it. Most of the heat I believe is due from the power going through it that it generates itself. And yes thermal expansion and contraction from heat cycles is the cause of these issues.

@@NicksElectronicRepair thank you for the explanation. My oven has an small cooling fan for the panel that is annoyingly loud. Nothing has failed but I sure would prefer a simpler design that didn't require circuitry. I just want to turn electricity into heat. I already have a clock on the wall.

Had to get it from a good working unit

Sorry we don't have any for sale or exchange. These boards are not available anywhere. The best I can do is offer to fix it. We offer a flat rate service for these Nas units and provide a 1 Year warrant with the repair. We request you send in the entire unit however as we would need to do a full diagnostic and repair as more can fail with these units and we would want to make sure we tackle all faults before sending it back.

No clue. I haven't had the chance to fix a DS713+ yet

@@NicksElectronicRepair Thanks for the quick reply. Nothing on the board looks wrong, battery replaced, and tried new power supply, but usually just blinks blue forever. had taken it out of operation and left if turned off for over a year and it mordaciously booted a couple of times, then subsequently returned to the infinite blue blinking light. not sure it is worth the the cost to have you look at it. sad.

Yeah it could be a software failure, could be a hardware failure. We have seen both cause this. There are a lot of reasons why it wouldn't boot, it's hard to say what is the cause.

@@NicksElectronicRepair thanks again. putting it in the landfill and calling it a day.

Could I buy it from you so that I can try to fix it on video?

Does not this repair is specific to the DS1515+ For your unit you may want to check out this video as it may be more closely related to your unit's issues: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqG5Zqyag8mrfsk

That would be great. We have only had 3 of these come in for repair so far and our pricing is fairly low so I was a bit surprised we haven't seen more yet. Yeah absolutley I would be very greatful if you spread the word! Thank you

Not a clue, we have attempted to fix them before but the DS218+ has eluded us. We haven't really had a chance to really spend a lot of time on them yet. If you find something out, let us know I would love to do a video on them.

The resistor? Google

Trial and error otherwise known as experience It's really hard to identify a fauty solder joint below a processor because you can't just put a mutltimeter to it or use a tool to determine it's the issue. So you have to go based on symptoms, the fault that is occuring and try a few repairs until one sticks and then use that experience of having fixed a few to know what symptoms are commonly caused by what failing components in the circuit. Yes I know it's not the sexy clear cut answer you were looking for but that's how it goes a lot of the time.

One common way is if the device's functionality seems to be be tied to whether it is hot or cold. That could indicate a bad solder joint.

Yes, this is also true. We see that a lot with the CPC4 actually. Truckers will say that during certain weather like in the very early morning or night time, it won't work but after the sun rises for a few hours and it warms up then the truck works.

If the joint has burning or looks in bad shape I will remove it. Sometimes if the joint is still in good shape and I am just premptively reflowing it ill just add new or just add flux to renew it, but yeah usually remove all the old and replace with all new is better.

Oh looks like you did find the video here. No the DS1813 video is different and won't apply to your unit. You replaced the transistor, battery but didn't install a resistor? Just checked it? Does this mean you already had one in there? The blinking blue light fault for your unit is fixed with the 100 ohm resistor installation. If that resistor installation does not fix the fault then you could have an issue with your RAM memory. Replace those first I would say. If the fault persists, then most likely the CPU itself has failed beyond this repair method and needs to be replaced. We can do that for you if you would like.

@@NicksElectronicRepair Yes there was a resistor already installed by Synology. 97.03OHM.

Typically no. is it possile a cable is out of place and hitting the fan blades?

No this would not work with the DS1515+ All NAS units are different, a fix for one unit does not mean it will work with other models. I recommend you watch this video instead as it's for the DS1515+ kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqq8k3ugdpKVptUsi=HpjpxwTkBifmWHKO

If it works as is then no don't really bother. Plus once you have the unit plugged in and set up you aren't going to move it around nor are you going to disconnect the NAS from power so really it may not matter at all. If it works as is, I would say don't worry about fixing it. If you commonly disconnect it from power, then I would say perhaps this is something worth looking into.

Well I have bad news. We did post the video today but it was filmed a week and a half ago or so. I spent a significant amount of time trying to fix it, we replaced the processor chip that commonly fails on this unit, we replaced ram, the DOM, we swapped the motherboard out into a new unit just to be able to rule everything else out, and no matter what we tried and did, we never got it going. We ended up having to send it back as a no fix sadly.

@@NicksElectronicRepair Any chance the socket was not fully soldered?

I guess there is a chance but I highly doubt it. We made sure it soldered down on all corners. The fact that the symptoms were the same before and after to me suggest that yes there was damage to the socket but that was not the cause of the failure. If the socket was not soldered down properly then I don't belive the unit would be able to turn on at all. Although I guess I don't know for sure if that's true. Ill give that a try and let you know.

I know, I was very confident at first that it would.

Copy the files from it onto your computer. What speed is it able to copy at? When that board fails it only allows data to be read from it very slowly which is why the unit can't boot. I haven't done a video on it showing this but will soon. If it is able to copy quickly then it's not the fault but if it's very slow to copy then it's most likely the fault. Also what is the part number of the chip on the back of your daughter board? If it's the same exact chip as we replace in the video then most likely it's the fault. If it's a different type of chip then most likely you are correct that's not the fault.

@@NicksElectronicRepair thank you for the quick reply and your time. Although the files size is small (8.4 MB) the transfer is completed after 1s so i guess i need to focus elsewhere. For reference part number is UT165-T48 N4GPR0 which is not exactly the same as the one in the video. I am focusing on possible corrupted BIOS, any other tip is welcome. If i were in the US i would have send it to you, your pricing is very reasonable, but i stay in Europe.

Yeah if it is copying in 1 second then that's not the issue. As you said it's possible it's a bios issue, could be a fault on a hardware level or software level but it could also be a Memory issue, have you tried new RAM?

​@@NicksElectronicRepair Thank you for the tips. I also tried other RAM but the issue remains. The model is old the best i could do was to find the BIOS file from 1511 which seems to be very similar. Although i was able to extract the bin file from current chip i wasn't able to recreate it with the 1511 BIOS. I would appreciate it if you by any change have a bin copy of the DS1010+. One more think that i noticed which could indicate other issue to you with all your experience. When the NAS is booting to restarts after around 5 seconds and then it boots into the infinate blue blinking LED light.

Any time

Probably not but maybe not for the reason you think. The fault could be something else as well. We sometimes see this issue occur: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oKiwlGZ9j5x4qNU I don't see enough DS1511+ models to know them really well but we have fixed several in the past. I would need to diagnose it myself however.