While it is theoretically possible, that is not possible to do at this time. You would need to make some major hardware and software changes in order for that to be possible. It would be easier and cheaper to spend a few thousand on a newer machine instead.

We can fix what ever has hardware malfunctions and require soldering work. Before we have you send in your cluster however, can I have you confirm the part number of your cluster so I can do a little research on it, as well as confirm how you determined that it needs soldering work. If you don't mind walking me through your diagnostics. The reason I ask is because we have recently had several customers send in working clusters with completely seperate issues.

@NicksElectronicRepair I haven't pulled it out yet but the crown Victoria police interceptor is notorious for soldering going bad, I've checked the fuses and wires and they're all good, the dash LED lights power on bright or semi bright then dim then nothing intermittently to constantly it's really annoying. So my best guess is there's either a bad/worn connection with the soldering or something.

That's awesome to hear that you got your NAS back up and running! Glad the video was able to help.

Are you in need of a repair tech to service it? If so you can fill out our contact form linked below and we can disccus options from there: nickselectronics.com/pages/contact

Yes replacement controller boards can be very expensive. That's why repairs are a very good alternative options.

Turkey day and Christmas are the two holidays where we always get a surge in repair requests for these.

I will keep that in mind for the future, but personally I have not had any issues so far, but also I never do that typically, it was because it was a video that I did it, to show the circuit opening and closing while it's in the controller board so it's easier to see the path and how power moves through.

@@NicksElectronicRepair no problem, if you power the relay the wrong way it will show a sort due to the diode. But driving the tranny will blow it 😉

ok

We are currently sold out, however we have made a large order for more, the only problem is the company we bought them from has to spin up the factory again to make a new batch of these, and won't be able to ship them for another 45 days. If you are interested we have a wait list for these. As soon as we get them and are able to ship them, we will be reaching out. If you wish to be placed on this list, simply fill out our contact form linked below stating you would like to be added to our oven display wait list and make sure to include your email and phone number: nickselectronics.com/pages/contact

@@NicksElectronicRepair I'm impressed that there are companies around that can remanufacture these old VFD. I thought maybe you just had a crate of NOS inventory. I don't need a display, I was just clicking through the links to look at things and thought I would let you know that the link for it was 404 as sometimes these things go unnoticed.

well thank you for letting me know. I did make an adjustment and reposted it just as out of stock and then wrote that we should be able to get some in January. Yeah it took lots of searching around to find a company to make these. Wasn't easy.

About tree fiddy.

Almost, it's 450

We have not had to fix those before and are not really set up for them so I would have to say probably not unless you already have some information that could help us diagnose and figure out what this issue is. Knowing what to fix is 90% of the fight. Once we know what we need to do the last 10% is the actual component replacement. After that in terms of testing, we won't be able to do to much since our Saab we use for testing is a 2.0L not 2.8.

Kingbo usually for SMD and throughole

220 is very common for these

@@NicksElectronicRepair Yup! I keep those and ones like 1000, 2200, 3300 and 200 @ 450V

If you donate $20 Ill say Sold er in my next video other wise its sodder for life.

@@NicksElectronicRepair LMAO! Holding solder hostage. Guess ransom is more accurate.

Actually, both pronunciations are acceptable. Different areas of the world pronounce it differently. I'm in North America as is this channel. It appears that we were taught "sod der" not SOLD er" As annoying as "sod der" is to you, for some of use, "SOLD ER" grates against the nerves. LOL I'm with Nick on this one. All my life, since I learned how to SOD DER at the ripe old age of 7 years old, until now, it's always been and shall remain SOD DER.

@BlondieHappyGuy yes but in some parts we can spell and pronounce words properly

haha yeah I only ever here the english say sold er

No I don't believe so

We don't always live test in the ovens, but we do have a set up if needed. Almost all are tested on our bench, we found a pretty good reliable way to test almost all units on the bench and have had very good success with that.

That I am aware of not for the 2415+ version. If I am wrong and you find out otherwise please let me know so I can do an amended video on that.

Yeah especially when the relay is stuck in the on position.

You're welcome!

What model oven do you have? I am curious about what controller board is used in your unit. Replacing capacitors for the unit in this video won't fix a dim display issue which is why I am wondering what part you may have as it most likely is designed differently.

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, everything has been a bit crazy since the holiday. I have a full video for that repair, granted its the 6 bay version but the motherboard is the same and requires pretty much the same repair. You can check out the full repair video linked below: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hWa3nGRrrtqIgZosi=m1EitnidwN6vhTSg

A correctly rated fusible (flame proof) resistor would have been a better choice?

Yeah those resistors we install are going to burn up and fail open as well if there is an over draw or problem. We have tested them for that exact reason and they do burn and fail open acting essentially like a fuse except they don't explode and make a big mess like the original did. They are good replacements and safe.

Would be nice if more details were provided: 1) How did he come up with the proper resistance for the replacement since the original was burn to a crisp. 2) How much power was being injected to the relays. 3) How to identify replacement parts for those relays.

@ahmedsahid5036 definitely all valid points! I would say that the answer to coming up with the proper resistance for the resistor that was blown completely off the board would have an answer/explanation that night be more confusing than just not mentioning it. I will say that I have repaired several of these Electrolux/Frigidaire oven boards myself and I ran across one of these with the same resistor blown to bits and determining the proper values is not straightforward. I first started by looking for a schematics of any kind or any type of board view which just does not exist. The next step is to Just use Google-Foo I'll search the exact model of board and hope and pray that somebody posted a high enough resolution photo that you can make out that exact resistor and read the color stripes on it and match it to the correct values using your resistance chart. I have actually had the best luck with eBay postings showing good enough photos, but for some more abstract and obscure boards, you might just have to sift through hundreds of thousands of images from a Google search and hope you hit the jackpot. In my opinion, trying to explain this in a tutorial video such as this one could confuse people even more than just leaving out that detail. That's for how much power to inject to the relays, Even on this channel, there has been mention before of what voltage and amperage should be used to activate relays. Also in the electronics world, it is pretty common knowledge that almost every relay manufactured is standard 12 volt to activate it. Mentioning this in every video would just make the videos longer and could actually be confusing, since there are relays such as this that use 12 volt supply but activate a load with 220 volts, and then there are other relays that are also 12 volts to activate, but rated for even higher or lower voltage on the load side. Also, there are so many KZbin videos showing the 9 volt battery trick to activate a relay, even though the relays are rated for a 12 volt trigger, 9 volts is usually enough for most relays to activate, at least for testing purposes. Response to finding the values for the replacement relays, I would also argue that since those original relays were not physically damaged extremely, the values were still legible and could easily be found using some Google-foo as well. I will say that Nick did mention that he matched the ratings on the original relays, but sourced ones that were rated for a higher voltage than the original, Just meaning that they would be less prone to failure in the same circuit that only needed a lower rating. This is all just my opinion, but please take everything I say with the grain of salt, but my initial post was just more or less based on the overall quality of work that is performed on this channel. I will also say that since Nick's company also sells the services that he films, I'm fully understanding if he leaves out some details that would make his services less needed or desirable. When running a company, it is good practice to keep some tricks up your sleeve so that you can keep the lights on and still churn out videos in content like this or others to benefit. Again, this is all my opinion.

Wow, thanks! :)

The resistor is hard to identify when it's burnt like that. You will call me a cheater but we have a known good unit we use for this exact reason. So we just grabbed the information by looking at our good board. The part number information is printed on the relay, you just have to google it to find the specs and typically replacements or identical relays are available. Although the video is really more advertising for you to send it to us for repair :)

@@NicksElectronicRepair Makes sense; thanks for the clarification.

:) nice workaround

The other option is a motorized, vacuum solder sucker. For years I kept seeing those thing and how easy they make life, but I was to cheap to shell out the $$ for one. But a couple of years ago, I just had enough with those blue solder suckers and wicking. LOL So I bought one. It is the best investment for my lab that I've made in a while. I use it every time I need to remove a component. It's wonderful. Every lab should have one. LOL

@@BlondieHappyGuyTechnique is key-tools like solder suckers help, but skill and experience always win. Faster methods come from learning proper techniques from seasoned pros.

Dry relay join? You mean cold solder joint? Do you have a time stamp?

At 14:30, but I see your reply to @danhorton6128 says this was a temporary operation to attach a clip. Thanks!

Oh yeah that was because I was having a really hard time getting those aligator clips to stay connected so removed some of the solder which helped a little but I still struggled.

We have fixed hundreds of these so we cheated and looked at other control units that did not have that component burnt on it.

@@NicksElectronicRepair Yeah, that is my biggest problem, nobody will release their proprietary schematics for you to repair anything. Do you have any other method to find out component values if you don't have a comparison board available? This type of info would be worth my $$ support for channel.

If we can't identify a part we either have to buy another board that has that part in good order perahps a broken donor board, or look at good pictures on the internet which don't always exist.

​@@NicksElectronicRepair In a situation where there's not easily obtainable, the other option is to trace the circuit to see what the resistor is doing. Once you know from which component and to which component, you should be able to calculate what the resistor (or other components) should be. This is really handy where SMD caps are concerned and there's no markings on them nor schematics. As long as one can find the data sheets for the components are connected to, one should be able to figure out what the cap or resistor should be.

spec sheet.

Right so as you stated, I did solder it, but then when I went to test it, the alligator clips wouldn't hold onto the pin with the solder, it kept sliding off because of the solder so I had to desolder it in order for the clip to hold better. But even with it desoldered partially I was having a hard time getting the clip to hold.

@ I see, that makes perfect sense.

@@NicksElectronicRepair Oh I HATE when those crappy clips loosen and clip sideways like that. I try to buy better clips that are designed differently. I have some that slip onto the end of probes and those ones remain solid. But I do have a lot like what you had there and those are so annoying.

@@NicksElectronicRepair That does make sense, but it would have been great if you had explained that in the video so we wouldn't have spent so much time scratching our heads! 🙂

Yes, thanks

That indicates a good shop and tech. So many places don't go that extra mile. When I had my TV Repair shop, going around all solder joints was just the norm. At that time, I didn't have the luxury of an electronic microscope. Just a big old magnifying glass was all that existed then. LOL

Yeah we did hand held magnifiers for a long time, but its tough to do that and hold solder and hole the iron. The microscope is hooked up to a 55" TV just above and to the right of the camera, it makes soldering so much easier!

Either you have to replace the CPU or and this doesn't always work but add a wire to the resistor to introduce a bit more noise in the signal. This helps sometimes. If you still have issues we can replace the CPU for you but we would have to charge a bit more for that repair than our normal service as the CPU is fairly expensive.

This unit does not suffer from the Atom C2000 bug. If you send just the daughter board we can test it and fix it if it's defective, but we wouldn't be able to offer the 1 year warranty on the repair because other parts in the unit can and do fail. When you send in the unit we do peform multiple repairs to ensure the unit is fully refurbished and does not experience any repeat failures. If you sent in just the daughter board we could reduce the cost of the repair but would have to waive the warranty. I would recommend if you want to discuss options further to reach out by filling out our contact form. Here is a link to it below: nickselectronics.com/pages/contact